Milkweed for Monarch what can we do 2014

I think the main thing is just giving the seeds/seedlings a little extra protection... the containers (milk jugs & the like) provide a mini greenhouse-like environment, seeds are less likely to be lunch for critters, etc. I tend to have better luck growing seedlings into mature plants before planting them out, but since I may be limited for a while yet with digging I'm considering trying more direct seeding myself -- no planting holes needed!

I wrote an introductory article a while back with what I'd learned about the (non-direct) winter sowing method: http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/585/

I am very interested in this thread about monarchs because even though I think I'm doing a lot of the right things to attract and support monarchs I do not see any successfully reproduce on my plants.
I have seen big fat caterpillars but not the next step, the chrysalis. Hopefully they are there I'm just not finding them.
I have 3 types of milkweed, A.tuberosa, butterfly weed, usually 5 or six plants- 1 A. purpurascens, purple milkweed- and 6 or 7 A. incarnata swamp milkweed.It has been quite a few years since I've had this number of milkweeds in place.
I try to always have some native plant in bloom somewhere on the small property and do have a lot of other good nectar plants nearby.
I try to avoid cultivars when possible, and avoid any double flowered varieties and buy as local as possible.


I know I've read somewhere that you should have 10 of each plant so I'll try to add a few more of each plant this year.
I may be losing the caterpillars to birds or overhead helicopter spraying the state does for mosquitos.

OK this is what I sold my neighbor on

Lupinus Perrinis 6 plants
Jacob Cline cat mint 6 plants
Solidago rugosa 6 plants
Heleboris Brandywine 3 plants
Chelone gabra 6 plants.

Critter, thanks for the link to your article! After reading it and the links within it, I know about 500% more than when I started.

:-) The year I wrote that series, a bunch of folks followed along and kept me posted on what they were doing... felt like a graduation celebration at the end! It's not "the one true way" to start seeds or anything, but it is a collection of tried & true methods that seem to work for most folks who give it a try.

ed. to add, I got my threads mixed... the above refers to the "Seed Starting 101" series, to which I posted a link in another thread recently. I did do a few articles on winter sowing, though.

This message was edited Mar 4, 2014 10:55 PM

Sempervirens, I found this link with what might be a possible explanation for your vanishing caterpillars: http://www.mymonarchguide.com

(copied from above link) "I had all these Monarch caterpillars on my Milkweed outside but when I went to look again, they are all gone! What happened? I can’t find them.
Your caterpillars, if they were really big (as in over 1" long) probably are ready to pupate! When caterpillars are ready to pupate, they will often leave their host plant (the plant that they eat) to find a nice, peaceful spot. Many times, that spot may be WAY far away from where they were eating! Check around about up to 30-feet away. I bet you will find your caterpillars. It is kind of like one of those ‘I spy’ type of games. ☺
Now, if your caterpillar is small (as in an early instar) there are several possibilities and they are not as happy. A spider could have taken off with it and eaten it for its lunch (and the Daring or Bold Jumping Spider is notorious for this! Gardeners must be very careful with this particular species; the Phiddipus audax has a nasty bite!), it could have contracted a virus or bacteria and died, it could have been eaten by a lizard, …Let's just hope that the caterpillar was in the late instar and was on its way to continue its metamorphosis into becoming a butterfly. "

yay Terp--good work on the neighbor! :-)

Thanks Muddy1 for the link and the information. All the caterpillars I "lost" were big and fat so they probably moved somewhere on their own. Yeah!
I have lots of tall densely planted areas within that 30 ft. so they could have been anywhere.

I had watched a Swallowtail caterpillar leave the host plant and crawl all the way across the driveway and back and then disappear into the garden so I knew they found other places to form the chrysalis but I wrongly assumed the monarchs would stay on the milkweed.

I know early in the season last spring I had 1 lone monarch repeatedly visiting the garden and the milkweeds but not laying eggs.
It was a male waiting unsuccessfully for a mate.

Sempervirens, One of the most comprehensive sites that is already doing what I propose we all do across our Mid Atlantic region is the Loudoun Wildlife Conservancy. Their Monarch Campaign is a model for what each of us can do to bring back the Monarchs

http://www.loudounwildlife.org/Monarch_Campaign_About.html

They have challenged Loudoun County Virginia to raise and release 2014 Monarchs this year. This may be your next level of involvement . In addition to shoring up your Milkweed and nectar plants with native species from as local a source as possible, and planting more densely for caterpillar protection, you may choose to raise those cats in a more protected way than 'out in the wild' allows. At the very least, it would be great if all of us who are privileged to see those fat late season cats this Fall will raise and release them before they crawl away to form chrysalises some where. One of the most vulnerable times in a Monarch cats' life is when it is crawling off the Milkweed to find a spot to pupate!
http://www.loudounwildlife.org/Monarch_Campaign_Raise_Release_Monarchs.html


The Plants: Milkweed, species Asters and Goldenrod
http://www.loudounwildlife.org/Monarch_Campaign_Plant_Waystations.html

I hope everyone will read through this site so we can be focused on the milkweed and nectar plants to have available in our yardens this year. There are many forms of Waystations but few 'critical' plants' milkweeds of course and nectar plants that support Fall migration.
The LWC lists 3 nectar plants as primary nectar sources for Fall migration:

Solidago graminifolia (narrow-leaved Goldenrod)
Solidago rugosa (Rough-stemmed Goldenrod)
New England Aster Symphyotrichum novae angliae

The LCW lists 9 other recommended native nectar plants as secondary sources of nectar for Monarchs and Waystations. Again,garden worthy cultivars of species native plants may not provide the same level of attraction or nectar richness as straight species.
Min rec is 10 milkweeds (2 species) and 4 nectar plants for each milkweed of at lest 2 varieties.

The only variation I have made from LCW site is the addition of Tropical Milkweed because it can be critical food source for Monarch cats should supplies of regular milkweed be depleted or unable to meet demand of raise and release efforts. It grows in a container so is moveable and quickly and readily from cuttings.

I hope to post soon a Monarch Waystation Assortment Group Buy as unlike Loudo
un County I cannot identify any nurseries or garden centers that carry even a few of the 15 plants they (LCW) recommend. So, in addition to locating and planting plants there is much work to be done in my area, and I suspect others, to get to where Loudoun County already is.

Thanks Coleup. What a great idea to have a group buy focused on the 15 native host and nectar plants needed for a monarch way station.

Editing again!
Prairie Nursery sells the plants or seeds for almost everything on Loudon County's list in quantities ranging from small to large, e.g.:

Eupatorium perfoliatum - 50,000 seeds for $12 or 200,000 seeds for $30
Asclepias incarnata - 1100 seeds for $8 or 4500 seeds for $20.

I am trying to scan their catalog prices for the seeds and plants (not as easily available online) and will then post

Either greenthumb99 or I have the few plants they don't carry, the only exception being (unless greenthumb has it) Verbesina alternifolia.

I have only ordered plants from Prairie Nursery, but I like them. I would definitely trust them for bulk seed orders. http://www.prairienursery.com

This message was edited Mar 5, 2014 7:41 PM

I like the idea of direct seeding... especially since I may have to change my gardening approach to doing less digging. I just need a way to mark/protect the locations... otherwise, seedlings have a way of disappearing without a trace out there. Of course, 50,000 seeds could help with that issue LOL.

While you're checking, could you look for Lupine perennis seeds also please?

Here are scans of Prairie Nursery's selection of native plants and seeds and prices for same. The plant names appear on the far right because I did not scan the opposite pages, which listed the plant names followed by bloom time/color, growing requirements, etc.

I can identify with not being able to dig, having spent too many frustrating gardening seasons not being able to dig to my heart's content due to various non-cooperative body parts!

Lupine perennis is on the list. The lists are in reverse alphabetical order by Latin name due to my less than stellar scanning skills.

I know what you mean about needing to remember where seeds are sown! I am stratifying many of the seeds I got at the swap because I am not at all sure where I direct sowed seeds last fall (that, plus the fact that the ideal time for winter sowing has passed). I have visions of clumps of plants trying to grow on top of each other. I hope that by the time the new seeds have finished their stratification period, some of the seeds I sowed last fall will be coming up.

BTW, HD is selling Liatris spicata corms for what seems like a very good price: 8 corms for $3.98.

Edited to add that Prairie Nursery seeds have not been cold moist stratified. They are upfront about saying that it may take 2-3 years for the plants to appear and/or flower when grown from seed.

Joyanna can plant the little plants for you - their smallest pots are only a few inches deep.

This message was edited Mar 5, 2014 9:07 PM

This message was edited Mar 5, 2014 9:16 PM

I can CERTAINLY do my part as well, by making sure we, at work, carry as many of the 'desired' plants and seeds as possible!! I noticed already that one of the things the Boss ordered are 2-pound bags of Butterfly/Hummingbird seed mix. If the company's website is correct, each bag contains seeds for:


Annual Baby’s Breath
Zinnia
Chinese Forget-Me-Not
Cornflower (Blue)
Cosmos (Tall Mixed)
Annual Candytuft
Shasta Daisy
Sweet Alyssum
Sweet William Pinks
Black-Eyed Susan

There was also ordered Encap Wildflower Meadow Mix - not sure what seeds are in that, can't seem to find a label online anywhere.

And also Encap's "Wildflower Aromatic Mix", with supposedly:

Four-O-Clock (Formula Mix)
Chinese Forget-Me-Not
Siberian Wildflower
Annual Candytuft
Sweet Mignonette
Sweet Sultan
Sweet Alyssum
Evening Scented Stock
Virginia Stock
Corn Poppy

I'll do more research and reading to see which one(s) of these will be most beneficial to our Flutterby friends. :)

Speedie, note that Encap's "Wildflower Aromatic Mix" does not contain a single North American wildflower, even the Virginia Stock is European.

Thank you, that's exactly the type of stuff I want/need to learn about this! The more I know about what we're selling, and what we should sell, the better for everyone!

Suggest you read Doug Tallamy's excellent book "Bringing Nature Home" on the significance of the plants we choose to grow. For a short cut, a half hour interview with him at http://bringingnaturehome.net/ .

Will enjoy the video tomorrow morning, and thank you, books (to me) are always a trillion tons better than ANYTHING. Will add that to my amazon wishlist! :)

I have a book, written by a local gardener, called "Take our advice: a handbook for gardening in Northern Virginia", and something she wrote about Doug Tallamy's book keeps popping up in my mind: "If you read his book, you will never want to buy an alien ornamental again."

I won't buy or plant invasive alien ornamentals, but I find that it's not always possible to get rid of all alien plants. For example, one of my daughters gave me 2 butterfly bushes for my birthday...alien or no, they will be planted and pampered! I just have to get rid of something so I have places for them : )

It is so great that we're collaborating on butterfly gardens! We won't have instant Monarch way-stations in spite of our great intentions, but if each of us plants a few of every ideal plant we can swap thousands of seeds next year!

Greenthumb99 pointed out to me that Prairie Moon Nursery is another source for native plants of value to Monarchs and other pollinators. They have a downloadable native plant catalog, and are now offering mix or match trays of 38 plugs for $109 (after the $10 discount): http://www.prairiemoon.com/catalog-download.html

I like your enthusiasm Muddy I think by getting plants we ca have a led up on our Waystations, That is why I am doing a Group Buy from North Creek for Milkweeds and Nectar plants, especially the Asters and Goldenrods. Ernst Seeda is also a source for native species seeds for our ecotypes

The Loudoun Wildlife Conservancy has a list of 15 plants they recommend for their Waystation Campaign: Most are available from North Creek( * ) and can be part of our Group Buy

Host Milkweed (10 plant min of 2 species)
*Common Asclepias syriaca
*Swamp Asclepias incarnata
*ButterflyWeed Asclepias tuberosa

Primary Nectar plants (2-4 per each milkweed)
*New England Aster Symphyotrichum novae-angliae
*Narrow-leaved Goldenrod Solidago graminifolia
Rough-stemmed Goldenrod Solidago rugosa
*'Fireworks' selection

Secondary Nectar Plants (2 or more per milkweed)
*Blue Mistflower Conoclinum coelestinum
*Joe-Pye Weed (hollow stemmed) Eupatoriadelphus fistulosus
*Dense Blazing Star Liatris spicata
*Wild Bergamot Monarda fistulosa
*Narrow-leaved Mountain Mint Pycanthemum tenuifolium
Orange Coneflower Rudbeckia fulgida
seed grown cultivar
Blackeyed Susan Rudbeckia hirta
not available from NC
Calico Aster Symphyotrichum laterifolum
* 'Lady in Black' cultivar
*New York Ironweed Vernonia noveboracensis

Oh I misunderstood! I thought you were having trouble locating a source of 15 plants recommended by The Loudoun Wildlife Conservancy...looks like you've got it covered : )

I thought the deadline had passed for the North Creek group buy order, but if it hasn't, I'll go in for a 1/4 share of Lupinus perennis.

I've often continued planting "winter sowing" containers through March... there should be plenty of freeze/thaw remaining for most seeds, although a few that need serious stratification might not germinate well. If I store columbine seeds (dry) in the fridge, they seem to germinate as well when I sow them in April as when I winter sow them in Feb. I've had mixed luck with Asclepias, though, so I might try moist stratifying some of those.

I like Prairie Nursery's website. Looks like their 38 cell trays are $13 apiece for shipping -- not bad. Cool that they'll let you mix & match for just a little more $. Also, their plugs are 5 inches deep, so pretty much the equivalent of North Creek's "landscape plugs" -- roots should be established enough for planting right out in the garden. Once we finalize the north creek order, maybe we can look to Prairie Moon for filling in gaps...

Muddy, thanks so much for looking into this! And I second the idea of looking to Prairie Moon to fill in gaps once the NC order is finalized. Plus I got huge seed packets of some of these gaps at the swap last weekend! :-)

coleup, the Loudon Wildlife Conservancy site has wonderful layers of information and links. Thanks for that reference.
The further I looked into it the more I found.
If you click on more nectar plants there is a fuller list of what we can plant.

One thing they did mention that is tricky is to find out is which plants are really native to your area from seeds that came from that local area. It seems timing is important for some plants, the same species from another area might bloom earlier or later. This might be more important for some of the other small pollinators.

Rather then use mail order I try to buy from local native plant sales. For me in NJ I usually end up at Bowmans Hill in Pa. just across the border and the local Audubon runs spring and fall sales. The NJ native plant society also has lists of native plant nurseries close by. Now sometimes even these sources use non local seed sources. I usually check the USDA plant map under each species or the NPIN site.

One trick I found helpful with the butterfly weed since it appears so late in the spring is to plant Phlox subulata (listed on the longer nectar list at the Loudon site) very close next to it. This way I don't plant over it thinking I have a bare spot. The phlox likes the same hot dry environment and spreads over the area the butterfly weed is planted. After the Phlox blooms I cut it back hard and the butterfly weed just pushes up through it.
I also noticed the butterflyweed seeds itself where it wants and some of my original plants die out.






This message was edited Mar 7, 2014 6:55 AM

David, I really enjoyed that video, thank you! Of course, I had to continue on with some other Kim Eirman videos.. she is addictive! =)
Got a new "Need These Plants" list now, including Pawpaw and a new Willow Oak. I think I have an idea where to put at least 1 Pawpaw, maybe 2. Still have to figure out where that Oak can go... maybe down near the corner of the property, near the street. No power lines to worry about here, yay!

Also thinking, it's time to expand my "Big Bed" again. Need to look through that delivery of seeds we got the other day - any Milkweed that might be there, well... it'll just have to be all mine! < =D

Speedie---

I was under the impression that Paw-Paws grow best in the Southern States---
I have never known someone around here to have one...
Have you?

Paw-Paws grow in profusion on stream floodplains in local natural areas. See USDA distribution map: http://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=ASIMI

I'm putting in a few pawpaws! I hope my little mail order ones made it through the winter in their pots... I know I'll be looking for a couple more. If you're growing for the butterflies, any kind will work, but I also wanted to plant for fruit, so I was after particular selections. I've never tasted pawpaw, but I pretty much like any kind of fruit, so I wanted to grow for myself as well as the butterflies.

Sassafrass is another that can be hard to find. I'll start trying to dig & pot little ones that appear in my treeline. Along with Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), it's a host for the lovely Spicebush Swallowtail.

Great tip about putting phlox subulata over late-appearing plants!

I just got this field guide on butterflies from the Loudoun Wildlife Conservancy. It is a nice, easy to read handbook with pictures of each butterfly with host plants and nectar plants information. At the back, there is a quick cross reference by plant. Even though it is for Loudoun County, I think it would be a great little resource for anyone in this general area:
http://www.loudounwildlife.org/Publications_Butterfly_Field_Guide.html

Paw Paws are delicious! Two of the nurseries where I worked had trees on their acerage. One Farmers Market peson brings them to 'special' customers. They grow wild in the woods if you know where and when to look
Asimina triloba - pawpaw (sale size: 2 gallon) $24.00 from Adkins Arboretum Nursery in Ridgely MD
http://adkinsarb.fatcow.com/store/page6.html
"A tropical looking shrub because of its large leaves paw paws do best in consistently moist, well-drained, average soil in full sun to full shade. But, it also tolerates dense, seasonal dry shade, and temporary inundation. Because it has a tap root take care not to move your tree once planted. Needs good, well-drained soil. Keep the plants well watered. Fruit production normally begins when the trees reaches 6 feet. Fruiting best occurs in full sun. Two or more genetically different trees are required for pollination and fruit set. Mature height about 25'. The zebra swallowtail butterfly larvae feed exclusively on the paw paw" (My bolding)

There is a Native Plant sale at Adkins on Fri-Sun April 10-13
http://www.adkinsplants.com/
They feature local ecotypes and regional ecotypes. Best choice is local ecotype

From Maryland Native Plant Society site:
http://www.mdflora.org/publications/nurseries.html
Non Profit Native Plant Resources
Adkins Arboretum*
Joanne Healey
12610 Eveland Road
Ridgely, MD 21660
Phone: 410-634-2847
Website: www.adkinsarboretum.org
E-mail: Jhealey@adkinsarboretum.org
The Arboretum holds two plant sale events; one in April and the other in September. The Native Plant Nursery is also open Monday thru Friday from April 15th to November 1st. Members receive a discount on plant purchases.
++ local ecovars are available
+++ regional ecovars are available

Chesapeake Natives, Inc. "We sell perennial plants native to the Chesapeake Bay watershed."

Mailing Address:
Chesapeake Native Inc.
9827 Rosensteel Avenue
Silver Spring, MD 20910

Website: www.chesapeakenatives.org

Sales are at Rosaryville State Park. Upper Marlboro, MD
For information, contact Chris Puttock, chesnatives@gmail.com, 202-262-9773
++ local ecovars are available,
+++ regional ecovars are available

Environmental Concern, Inc.*
201 Boundary Lane
P.O. Box P
St. Michaels, MD 21663
Phone: 410-745-9620
Fax: 410-745-3517
Website: www.wetland.org
E-mail: horticulture@wetland.org
Wetland plants. Plant sales for the public monthly March-October. Dates are listed on the web site.
++ local ecovars are available - DelMarVa penninsula
+++ regional ecovars are available

Herring Run Natives*
6131 Hillen Road
Baltimore, MD 21239
Phone: 410-254-1577
Website: http://bluewaterbaltimore.org/herring-run-nursery/native-plants/
E-mail: Darin Crew, dcrew@herringrun.org
MD native shrubs and trees. Wholesale and retail sales by appointment. We also have spring and fall sales listed on our website.

Irvine Nature Center
11201 Garrison Forest Road
Owings Mills, Maryland 21117
Phone: 443-738-9217
Website: www.explorenature.org
Plants are for sale in spring and fall at the visitors' center. There is also a plant sale at the yearly (August) Native Plant Seminar.
++ local ecovars are available

Meadowview Biological Research Station
Phil Sheridan
8390 Fredericksburg Turnpike
Woodford, VA 22580
Phone: 804-633-4336
E-mail: meadowview@pitcherplant.org
Only Drosera and Sarracenia.

For those in Northern Va and MD west/north of DC, there is a native plant sale sponsored by the Loudoun Wildlife Conservancy on April 5th in Leesburg, VA. I will be helping at the sale in the afternoon. http://www.loudounwildlife.org/Event_Native_Plant_Sale_Spring.html

I've started a calendar list of Native Plant Sale for this Spring here. Need more input if someone wants to take this on...
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/p.php?pid=9783855

Keeping in mind that all 'native plants' so called are not local or even regional ecovars or ecotypes and some may be sourced or grown with wild collected plants, or plants treated with insecticides or chemicals that could endanger the wildlife that feed upon them , or weaken the local existing genet pool by their introduction. maybe we can add to the list for those of us looking tor natives to replace all those 'aliens'

Sorry I missed your post Greenthumb

From the Chesapeake Natives site

What’s a Native Plant?

Native plants are those living in the area where their ancestors were growing thousands of years ago. They evolved with the climate and soils, and the local insects and animals used them for food and shelter. Humans grew the plants useful to them and domesticated the animals. Then, as they moved around the planet, they took with them cuttings, bulbs, corms and seeds for food, medicine, and clothing or to provide a connection to the home they had left. Unnoticed stowaways hid in their goods, the fur of their animals, or in the soil or litter aboard their wagons and boats. These plants were alien to the new locations. While some died because they were unable to survive in the different climate, others, having no natural enemies, flourished and spread. Dandelions and Queen Anne’s Lace are two flowers seen all over North America unknown there 400 years ago. Humans brought them here from Europe.

When calling a plant “native”, it is also important to consider the size of the area under discussion. A saguaro cactus can be called native to North America, but it is not native to Maryland. If you plant it here, it is an alien. Many wildflower companies sell plants native to North America, but before you order one, make sure you live in the area where it is native!

And finally, is the plant a hybrid? Threadleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata) is a cheerful perennial native to the Chesapeake Watershed with thin stems and leaves and bright yellow flowers. It blooms happily in June and July and is about 2-3 feet tall. Someone decided that this was not good enough and developed the hybrid Coreopsis verticillata “Moonbeam” which has lots of pale yellow flowers and is consistently about 18” tall. This plant is sold throughout the country and many people think it is the native coreopsis. It is not. If you want a native plant, you should avoid any with additional labels in quotes, after the Scientific name. These are cultivars and the seed is owned by the companies that developed them.

But why plant native plants... ones native to the area in which you live, and preferably locally grown?

Because they evolved in your environment and grow well there without much care. They know the conditions. They are hardier than those grown in nurseries in other parts of the country and brought in for sale. And they BELONG there. People visit California to see poppies and redwoods, the South to look at magnolias or Spanish moss, and New England for the fall color. Maryland has Black-eyed Susans, Butterfly Milkweed, Cardinal Flower, Wood Aster and Pussytoes. Celebrate this place you live in. It’s not like any other.

Most important, growing plants native to your area preserves them and the animals that depend on them. We are losing our native species. Airports, housing developments, malls, and roads cover what was once open land; plants that survived the improvements were pulled as weeds. In addition, aggressive invasive species are replacing the natives - kudzu, daylily, Bradford pear, Japanese honeysuckle, vinca, butterfly bush, multiflora rose, garlic mustard, lamium, ajuga, crown vetch, English ivy and cut thumb are just a few examples. Some were brought here intentionally and some were accidental, but all are crowding out the plants that evolved in this environment because they have no enemies to keep them in check. And, as native plants support native wildlife, we lose other species as well. When the plants are removed, the wildlife that depends on them cannot survive. Many native songbirds and butterflies are disappearing because of the loss of habitat and food here and in South America where they spend the winter.

So plant something native to your area.

Plant a garden of native plants....a yard....populate your neighborhood!

You’ll find you have more birds and butterflies, fewer pests to spray, and less work to do to keep them going. Give your home a sense of PLACE. What do you have to lose? Well, maybe your lawnmower..."

and the plants they sell http://chesapeakenatives.org/Chesapeake_Natives/Plant_Sales.html
Selling with Heart and Soul

Our passion is to give you in the Chesapeake Watershed a chance to have plants from our watershed growing in your own yards. In return, we gain funds for the research, education, and conservation work we do.

All our seeds are descendants of plants truly native to the Chesapeake Watershed, primarily from the piedmont and coastal plain. We offer our plants only to those who plan to garden within the watershed because we are fighting to keep plants native to other parts of the United States, and the world, from overpowering our locally native species. We do not want our plants causing the same problems in areas foreign to them.

Another great reason to buy from local native plant sales is that you can get much larger potted plants for the same price or less, and the larger ones are more likely to bloom that summer. I ordered 7 types of plants online last spring, and only 2 of them bloomed. All but one of the locally-purchased ones bloomed, and the non-performer probably wasn't getting enough sun.

Local sales are also great because you sometimes get free volunteer plants - I know now to look for pots with "bonus plants" in them. When I buy in the fall, I pick the ones with the most flower heads, even if they've all gone to seed.

I have a lot of native plants in my yard and in the woods (not as many as Greenthumb, though!), and I'm in the process of putting together a complete list (with origins) so you all know the seeds I hope to be able to share next year. I might get seedlings to share at the plant swap because I let many of them self-sow.

Here's a list of the seeds I brought to the swap:

Asclepias syriaca (from a neighbor's yard, origin unknown)
Aster novae-angliae (Prairie Nursery, Wisconsin)
Conoclinium coelestinum (Prairie Nursery, WI)
Lobelia siphilitica (mix of locally grown and origin unknown)
Scutellaria incana (Sassafras Farms, Virginia)
Vernonia noveboracensis (Virginia Native Plant Society, locally grown)
Veronicastrum virginicum (Virginia Native Plant Society, locally grown)

Thanks, Muddy, for the book recommendation. I've requested that our local library put it on its purchase list.

Thanks for all of that great information, Coleup!

As I passed a sign for Sugarloaf Mountain on my way to Frederick, I thought of a book I recently received:
"An Illustrated Guide to Eastern Woodland Wildflowers and Trees - 350 plants observed at Sugarloaf Mountain, Maryland" by Melanie Choukas-Bradley.

The one I mentioned earlier is "Take our advice: A handbook for gardening in Northern Virginia" by Margaret Fisher.

One of my favorites is "Creating Sanctuary: A new approach to gardening in the Washington Metropolitan Area" by Sherry Mitchell - lots of focus on native habitats and sanctuaries for humans and other creatures..

Man, you guys offer such a plethora of wonderful reading, I'll NEVER be able to keep up! But, that won't stop me from trying, of course!

Gita, we actually used to carry Pawpaws at work... haven't seen 'em in a couple years though. Hopefully I can nudge Bossman into carrying them again. :)

hey, Coleup. Of the 15 plants, can you remind us which ones are *already part* of the NC order, and which ones are available from NC that we might consider adding to our order?

thanks so much for all your work on this! :-)

Robin