Is there anything I can do to save this new garden?

Brief background: I've been gardening in part sun for the last couple years, but a couple weeks ago, I decided to design and plant an English cottage garden. I have no prior experience gardening in full sun, but I didn't think it would be this frustrating. I either chose a bad place to put the garden, given the condition of the dirt, or I did not amend the soil well enough. Or perhaps I even chose the wrong compost.

The dirt in this bed was quite dusty (dryer and ligher even than sand!). That's unusual. We usually have rich, loamy dirt with plenty of leaf mold. So I amended the soil down to about 6 inches with a compost made of bark mulch and lobster shells. It's not a particularly wet compost, like rotted manure. In fact, if I grab a handful of this compost, it's crumbly, not squishy.

I thought I had done everything I was supposed to do, and I planted 70 perennials in this garden last Monday.

It hasn't even been a full week, and several of my plants wilt *every* afternoon, and the lupine looks like it's at death's door. I watered thoroughly early last evening, but the plants looked wilty again tonight. When I stuck my finger in up to the second knuckle, it came out dry as dust. So I watered again.

Is this normal only 24 hours after a thorough watering? Note that it has not rained appreciably since I installed this garden a week ago.

Here is an image of how the garden bed looked last Sunday: http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=6645456

And on Monday evening: http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=6645485

Is there anything I can do to keep my plants from getting so stressed out, perhaps even from dying?

Should I add wet compost on top of the soil? I have yards remaining of the same stuff I mixed in.
Should I put a different compost on top, like manure?
Should I be prepared to water every day (unless it rains), given the finger test?
If I water every day is early morning or early evening best (given the plants wilt in the early afternoon)?
Should I put down bark mulch? And, if so, is there a best practice I should follow, like applying only up to the drip edge of the plant?

I really appreciate any help I can get. I don't want these plants to die.

I guess most people will ask how deeply are you watering? I am in East TN and it has gotten hot enough here that the only planting I can do is part shade. How hot is it getting during the day there? How cool are the nights? These plants have been in ground for a couple weeks(?) And though transplant shock is a concern I would be looking hard at moisture control. Some sort of mulch or other soil cover to the drip line would not be a bad idea, I personally bring the mulch closer to the stem of a plant in order to for a ridge under the plant. I use the half way rule. That is the ridge line should be half the distance from the center of stem growth to the outter most drip line branches. This allows water to be pooled and then soaked in at the root area. When watering be sure to water deeply allowing the water to soak in at least two inches, then water only when the soil is in need and check daily at first to establish a watering pattern.Also keep in mind full sun plants tend to wilt until they are established and I generally water early morning allowing the plants to soak up as much water as possible before the sun starts beating. Watering late evening can promote fungus and other disease growth. Be careful watering in the evening. You may need to supply some shade and then reduce the amount of shade provided gradually as the plants toughen up. I am sure there will be someone like E-crane along shortly to add some more tips. Good luck.

I would definitely consider putting down some mulch to help conserve moisture, and I'd also work on your watering--the fact that the bed was bone dry within 24 hrs tells me you may need to water more deeply, or if your soil is really sandy and fast draining then maybe watering twice a day would be needed for a little while (don't worry, once they get established you'll be able to cut back). I think you'd have to have really sandy soil though for a garden bed to need to be watered twice a day when the weather's probably not even that hot yet, so I suspect the problem is you're not watering for long enough (either that, or could the soil underneath where you amended be so hard that water is just running off instead of soaking in?) As gcorrier said, morning watering is better than evening since it gives the leaves time to dry out and will make things less prone to fungal infections. Once you get to the point where the bed is getting the amount of water it needs, you may still find that plants wilt on hot sunny days because their little roots just can't take up water fast enough even if there's plenty of water in the soil, so if you see that happening then rigging up some shade could help. I'd fix the watering first though before you worry about shade.

The compost combo sounds too dry to me.
This is the combo I think of when I hear the word compost....
“Brown” Layers:
• These can be made of straw, dried leaves, wood chips,
sawdust, even torn up paper. All these materials are
carbon-rich, supplying a critical food source to the
decomposer organisms.
“Green” Layers:
• These are nitrogen-rich materials, supplying another
critical food source for the decomposers.
• Acceptable “greens” include food scraps from meal
preparation, inedible leftovers, grass clippings that are
too long to be left on the lawn, weeds not gone to seed, manure,
etc.
Also when you first plant until they are established(esp in full sun) (if it doesn't rain) you should water every day.

What did the roots of the plants look like when you took them out of the pot? Sometimes if they have been sitting in the post for a long time the roots are very dense and wound around and they simply dont get any water at all. I always loosen them up before I plant. That compost sounds rather unusual too - maybe go for sometime really rich and a bit moist and add some peat? I have to work in high clay soil so have no experience with sandy loam. And of course how much you are watering makes a difference - not how frequently but how much. If you water really deeply I dont think you should need to water every day unless it is very hot.

gcorrier said:
> how deeply are you watering?

I use my waterfall nozzle on the hose and given that a count of 10 fills a 2-gallon watering can, I give each perennial 2 seconds before moving onto the next. I water a full stipe of earth and then go back (like mowing the lawn).

> How hot is it getting during the day there?

Since I planted an average of 70.

> How cool are the nights?

Low 50s, even dipping into the 40s.

> These plants have been in ground for a couple weeks(?)

6 days.

> I use the half way rule [with mulch].

Thanks, I will try this tomorrow.

> When watering be sure to water deeply allowing the water to soak in at least two inches, then water only when the soil is in need and check daily at first to establish a watering pattern.

I will do this, thanks.

> Also keep in mind full sun plants tend to wilt until they are established and I generally water early morning allowing the plants to soak up as much water as possible before the sun starts beating.

Yes, someone told me in another thread that the roots are yet still small and cannot take up all the water, even if there is plenty in the soil, so the plants wilt to protect themselves.

> You may need to supply some shade and then reduce the amount of shade provided gradually as the plants toughen up.

How does one do this in a full sun bed? Umbrellas? LOL, I am not purposely being disingenuous; I truly have no clue!

Thanks, gcorrier.

ecrane3 said:
> if your soil is really sandy and fast draining then maybe watering twice a day would be needed for a little while

OK. I will start checking twice a day but plan to water in the morning and late afternoon.

> (don't worry, once they get established you'll be able to cut back).

That is good to know.

> I suspect the problem is you're not watering for long enough

How long is long enough? Since I am using a waterfall spray attachment to the hose, I am afraid that if I water in any one spot for too long, I will erode the soil and bring the roots to the surface. Should I spray in a back and forth motion and, when finished, start over again?

> (either that, or could the soil underneath where you amended be so hard that water is just running off instead of soaking in?)

I suppose that is possible. When I prepared the bed, I dug down to a depth of around two spades. I definitely hit clay and gravel, but I figured it wouldn't matter since the roots would never get down that far (no shrubs or trees in this garden). Then, in the 156 square foot bed, I worked in 5 wheelbarrows full of compost and then smoothed it all out. After I planted, I sprinkled a top dressing of compost, about an inch.

flowerjen said:

> The compost combo sounds too dry to me.

It certainly feels that way. Unless I just watered (where it gets a bit muddy), the rest of the time the dirt feels crumbly.

Alas, my compost isn't homemade. Though I have a tumbler and have been feeding it for over a year, everything is still pretty lumpy inside! That's another thing I will have to learn about. Also, I guess there comes a time when you have to stop putting stuff in if you want to use it, lol.

> Also when you first plant until they are established(esp in full sun) (if it doesn't rain) you should water every day.

That's what it's looking like.

I'm sorry to sound so ignorant, but I have been afraid that I would kill my plants with too much water.

I purchased three HUGE leucothoe 'Girard's Rainbow' last year and was told that they could tolerate wet feet, that they should never dry out. So I watered them about every three days (except when it rained) and then ended up dropping all their leaves. I spent a small fortune on those shrubs, so I really tried to baby them through the winter and this spring, basically leaving them alone except for once-a-week waterings if it doesn't rain an inch. (And yes! I bought a rain gauge!)

fancyvan wrote:

> What did the roots of the plants look like when you took them out of the pot?

Some were so rootbound there was no dirt left in the container (already contacted the vendor, who is sending me replacements)

A couple, which I purchased locally, were also rootbound. The roots had formed a spiral in the pot. I took my leatherman and gently teased the roots out straight and trimmed a few. Perhaps that has contributed to their stress.

> That compost sounds rather unusual too -

Actually, I am guessing. It came loose from the local nursery. I can call then and ask what they are using, but I can see there's plenty of the 'brown' stuff (bark, dirt) and very little added moisture, as in manure.

> maybe go for sometime really rich and a bit moist and add some peat?

Given how dry and dusty it was to start, do you really think I should add peat?

And here are some more dumb questions:

What kind of moist compost? I assume you mean dehydrated/rotted manure. Please correct me if I an wrong.

What do I do with it then? Sprinkle it on top before adding mulch, or do I need to work it into the dirt with a cultivator?

I don't have a lot of room to work. I purposely planted this garden so it would completely fill in with 2 years, max. All plants are a maximum of 18 inches apart.

(I wanted instant gratification and less weed patrol and figureed when the plants get big, I will divide and share.)

> And of course how much you are watering makes a difference - not how frequently but how much. If you water really deeply I dont think you should need to water every day unless it is very hot.

Thanks. I am wondering if I am not watering deeply enough.

As I posted above, I water each plant for a count of one-one thousand, two-one thousand (given that it takes 20 seconds to fill a 2 gallon watering can.) Maybe it's been a very long time since the ground was totally saturated. Or maybe I need to get a soaker hose.

Thanks, everyone!

Here's what I have taken away from all your kind help:

Check soil daily to establish a watering pattern.
Water deeply and mornings are best.
Consider adding a more moist compost on top of the existing dirt.
Mulch, using the halfway method (halfway between drip line and stem).
Remember that full sun plants WILL wilt until they are established.

I don't think your 2 seconds of water on a plant is going to be enough--I would try going over the bed a few times when you water, or else if you'd like to save yourself some time and give the plants a more gentle spray, invest in a sprinkler and run it for a while (to figure out how long to run it, find some glasses with straight sides and set them at a few different spots in the bed and see how long it takes to collect the # of inches of water you want.) Using a sprinkler will let the water soak in more gradually than using the hose which may help with your problems and you won't wind up blasting all the soil away from the roots. Or a soaker hose would work too, whichever you like better.

Thanks, ecrane. I have a sprinkler, and I can try this so I don't have to stand outside that early and get munched by mosquitoes.

I assume early morning is best if I watering from overhead.

I don't own a soaker hose yet. And I am not sure I could find one big enough that I could weave through all those plants! I'd probably need two, and I have only one outside spigot.

You can probably find a little sprinkler ( that does not turn )and set it in the middle of the bed and just water the bed ( rather than the surrounding lawn) Thats what I do with some areas that need extra water.

Yes my compost is largely well aged manure! And it gets dug in.

I dont think you harmed the roots by spreading them out - most plants get that way when they sit in the nurseries and often there is almost no dirt left but that does not mean the plants are not OK. i always dig them loose otherwise they wont absorb the water.

And yes I agree with everyone you are not watering deeply enough. Put a frisbee on the flower bed when you are using a sprinkler and water until you have about an inch and then check the bed to see how far down it is wet.

> You can probably find a little sprinkler ( that does not turn )and set it in the middle of the bed and just water the bed

By "does not turn" do you mean avoid the kind that oscillates (from above) or the kind that turns clockwise (spins)

Great idea about the frisbee! And easier to leave laying around than a glass or cup, which could tip over.

Look at a stationary sprinkler. Since they do not need to turn, you can turn the pressure down on them so they cover a small area. Here's a couple links

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100668840&N=10000003+90401

http://www.nothingbuthardware.com/724425.html

http://www.acehardware.com/sm-gardien-waterworks-stationary-sprinkler-gardien-waterworks-stationary-sprinkler-price-12--pi-2854293.html

http://www.target.com/gp/search/181-1953631-3451230?field-keywords=sprinkler_stationary&LNM=sprinkler_stationary&CPNG=Patio%20Garden&AFID=google&LID=42679856&ref=tgt_adv_XSGO0628

Yes thanks Quinx stationary is what I mean. But mine is much simpler than the ones to which you linked. Dont know where I got it- doesn't matter much since I am in Canada.But probably a Garden Centre or a place like Home Depot.

Thank you!

I found this one, and I like that the base is metal, so it won't tip over like the cheapie plastic ones. http://tinyurl.com/n8e6w9

I think that noodlehead sprinkler looks interesting and since my new hosta bed is an odd shape I think I might get one.

Peony: If it needed I have actually used an outdoor picnic table type umbrella when planting 'gift' plants recieved late in the season. Looks goofy as all get out, but I can close and open it so if cloudy leave it down also down for rain. Open for those long hot humid hours between noon and 4pm. These are our hottest hours and I would shave a half hour off the protection times every three to five days. I know I know but us silly country boys just take what we have and make it work. You could also use a tarp and tent poles, saw it down the block a year or two ago. I have heard of using a card board box and anything to make a pole(s). I really believe from the latter descriptions that the problem is watering depth and just needing to get used to the new home. Temps should not be the issue. I think get the bed deeply watered mulch and then water as needed. 2 inches down moist not soggy. :-)

Thank you gcorrier. That doesn't sound silly at all, and I do have a beach umbrella in the shed. Also the tarp-and-poles idea is a good one, as my basement is full of hiking/camping gear.

Since planting, the first two weeks were sunny and warm (high 70s/low 80s), but the third week has been a bit rainy.

After observing things more carefully the last two weeks, I am convinced I didn't add enough "wet" amendment to the soil, and that the compost I added only enhanced the already-sharp drainage.

Thursday night, for example, we had a gullywasher. My rain gauge showed 2 inches of rain in one evening, and the basement even took on a bit of water, but when I used my soil sensor yesterday morning and experimented with the depth to which I plunged it, the reading always came back DRY+. That was after one day of no watering and only part sun (came out Friday afternoon).

I bought a Nelson Metal Vane Square Pattern Spray Whirling Sprinkler (http://tinyurl.com/n8e6w9) AND a frisbee, to see how long I need to leave the sprinkler on before I get an inch of water. I am be prepared to water every morning, if necessary, until the plants are established and start to fill in.

Meanwhile, everything but the foxglove looks perky, and some things are blooming. The oriental poppies had started blooming, but the hard rains ended that. My one alpine poppy seems indestructible, as it has been blooming since I planted it. The lupine are still in bloom, pushing up new pannicles every few days, the violas are just starting, as are the alliums, and I see buds on the daisies. The iris are just starting to fade.

I have yet to put down mulch. I waited too long last weekend for a delivery, and the local nurseries are still out of bags of the dark bark that I use. (I would rather go without than put down cedar mulch!) And since it rained a lot last week, I wasn't in a rush, but I am having a yard delivered today, and will follow the halfway rule, as soon as it stops raining.

Will I need to rake up the mulch next spring or will new growth pop up beneath it?

peony; I generally don't use mulch. I am just too cheap and too lazy, but that's just me. That being said my ex used it religiously which in turn means I put it out when she had it delivered. All I ever did was just break up the surface of it on a regular bases. She would buy the stuff, I spread it out around 2 inches thick and in few months the stuff was packed on the surface. A garden weasel is great for turning the mulch, fluffing it and cheap. As long as the mulch is not compacted the plants should spread through it just like they would dirt. I wonder if my lack of enthusiasm for mulch has anything to do with my lack of enthusiasm for my ex.
Thanks peony, making me think about all the work I put into her yard, another trip the therapist. ;-b

I think you should have you soil tested. There are many categories and different types of soil. You said that when you started to prepare your bed that the soil was different than the rest of the yard. This sounds suspicious to me and maybe perhaps there was something else there before you moved in (ash pit maybe?) or during the contruction of your house that area was used for supplies of whatever.........grout, mortar, could be anything. Anyway call the local extension office (state university's usually have an extension office) and they should be able to tell you how to get a soil sample and where to send it for analysis, usually to them. This is the best way to start a garden so you know what you need up front. All of your plants shouldn't have had the same result from planting because some plants are more tolerable of their growing conditions than others. It does sound like you have a lot of sand, but I live on a sand dune in Florida and we don't have that kind of response after daily watering. Andrea

My message was for peony 8. Sorry, new to Dave's Garden and to blogging and texting and everything else!

Don't worry about it Aschnapp, look at it this way when you post on a thread, it's like carrying on a converstion with a bunch of friends. If you want only the person you are talking to to see it, you have to send them a d-mail, click on their name and their member page will come up, under actions click "send d-mail" and then only that person will see it.

Aschnapp, you bring up a very good point. Before this house was built in the late 40s, the area was all oak and maple forest with granite quarries. There have been only two owners before me.

I wonder if the reason for the dustier earth is because it's closer to the house. Certainly that earth was disturbed a lot when digging the foundation. The other gardens I planted along the house are rather dry, as well, and those plants are doing fine a few years later. Those gardens are not in full sun, so maybe I just never noticed how dry things got in the middle of the day, but nothing has died there.

In any case, I just ordered a soil test kit online, so I should know the NPK levels by the end of the week.

A yard of black mulch was delivered today, but I probably should not put it in the garden until I know what kind of amendments are needed.