I got a great idea to share.

Asheville, NC(Zone 7a)

I got a great idea to share. My neighbor used to this to his trees stick a pipe in the ground next to them and then put you water hose in the pipe that way the water gets to the roots easier.

Woodway, TX(Zone 8a)

The roots of a mature tree cover all the area covered by the canopy and beyond. A pipe would put water in one spot. Not such a great idea.

Asheville, NC(Zone 7a)

He done it on small dogwoods.

Driftwood, TX(Zone 8b)

Actually, Landscaping92, I think it can be a pretty good idea depending on the circumstances. It would certainly benefit newly planted trees and allow those of us living in water-restricted areas of the state to guarantee a deep watering to many other specimen plants in the middle of summer - not just trees. I know that a good trick used by nurseries around here is to drill holes at 1" intervals in PVC pipe and bury the pipe with the plants, (this works very well in large planters as well as in the ground). When watering, the hose is inserted at the top of pipe and the drilled holes allow the water to evenly disperse along the entire root structure. Good suggestion!

Asheville, NC(Zone 7a)

Thankyou.

TabacVille, NC(Zone 7a)

Landscaping92, my DH did that using pvc pipes to any new trees planted.
Also act as reservoirs (pipes without holes) for our Bald Cypress trees that love water.


This message was edited May 2, 2009 2:27 AM

Carson City, NV(Zone 6a)

After having die back on our 3 white birch due to winter dryness, we did that a number of years ago. Drilled 4-four/five inch holes with a power auger about 18 inches deep and set in clay drain pipe. Filled the pipe with gravel. The holes were at the outer edges of the canopy. When we have insufficent snow (not that I'm crazy about snow but it does have its uses), we water the holes. Haven't had a die back problem since and we've had winter droughts.

Woodway, TX(Zone 8a)

My original comment still stands. None of you know if the pipe made the difference or not. Logic dictates that a sizeable tree with roots going in all directions needs watering over the entire root area.

Dublin, CA(Zone 9a)

It sounds to me like most of the people who have expressed support for the idea have not just had one pipe in the ground, they have had a way to get the water to multiple points in the root zone (multiple pipes, pipes with holes spread around the tree, etc). Especially for a large tree, just having one pipe in one spot is not going to do a lot of good.

Driftwood, TX(Zone 8b)

Thanks, DP - I don't think anyone here is talking about a mature post oak or other full-grown tree. I can assure you that it does indeed make a significant difference in young trees, large specimen plants and large container plantings.

Magnolia, TX(Zone 9a)

DP72: Texas landscapers use the pipe trick for new trees where the winds pull the moisture out of the ground with about a 95% survival rate, but they set the watering sticks to the rootball, n to larger trees beyond the rootball a bit, n yes we know how to place the watering sticks to get moisture to the roots that need it most; leaves that r dry on the end, indicate dry roots,

Woodway, TX(Zone 8a)

My reply was to the original post, which didn't indicate that this was a sapling or a 30 year old tree. I appreciate all the information about watering newly planted trees with a pipe in the ground. Please disregard my comment and go ahead and use pipes all you want to, in any amount you want.

Asheville, NC(Zone 7a)

The dogwoods he used them on was newly planted

Driftwood, TX(Zone 8b)

I see that you're in Asheville, Landscaper92. I visited there many years ago and remember it fondly. I was there in the autumn and it was quite beautiful. You're fortunate to be gardening in such a lovely area of the country.

Woodway, TX(Zone 8a)

Landscaping, I don't know why you're being argumentative. Your first post, to which I replied, said nothing about newly planted dogwoods. You didn't provide that information until after I posted. We do the best we can based on the information we have. I gave you a sound answer by which I still stand.

Driftwood, TX(Zone 8b)

Oh, my - I think you comment was just misunderstood, Landscaper. I assumed you were just explaining the type and age of tree your neighbor was watering in this manner. I hope other new gardeners will see your suggestion and benefit from the tip since it's a good one for many areas and situations. Please keep posting, and see your thread re: the problem you're having with plum trees - I've posted a link to a website that might be helpful to you. Thanks, Anne

Asheville, NC(Zone 7a)

I was Thankyou.

Waterman, IL(Zone 5a)

I've used a Peterson's Root Waterer for many years. No slamming a PVC pipe in the ground. It waters in 4 directions. I only use it on young or transplanted trees.

Woodway, TX(Zone 8a)

Whatever happened to SLOW watering of young plants with a hose above ground? Virtually drip watering- the water is just barely coming out of the end of the hose. It all soaks in. Six or seven hours, but not during the heat of the day with sun beaming down, should provide a thorough watering for a small tree or shrub.

Driftwood, TX(Zone 8b)

LOL! I don't think anything has replaced the faithful garden hose on low flow, dp72. I have 2 acres in garden, though, so I'm afraid I'll have to reserve that method for some of the more modest plantings in and around my patio area. In a small garden or if tending only a handful of new plantings, that would certainly be my choice. My garden is entirely micro-dripped with the exception of specimen plants, trees, large pots and the native plant display area. In those situations, I choose whichever alternative method makes the most sense, including the PVC pipe solution.

It looks like Landscaper has the same situation - Landscaper'ss profile shows 24 young trees in the ground, so he or she is dealing with a young orchard.

Pastime, do you have any additional information on the Peterson Root Waterer? I can't locate any info online, and I'm thinking it may be something that's been around for a few years. I'm satisfied with the system I use now, but I always like to learn about something new - who knows, it might be a better way of doing things. Thanks, Anne

Asheville, NC(Zone 7a)

Leaving the soaker hoes on for 7 hours want that waste water and run up a high water bill leaving the hose on that long. Not unless your using rain barrels or pumping water of the creek like my neighbor does of course that big pump might use a lot of electricity.

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