We planted these shrubs 2 weeks ago, have been feeding them miracle grow lawn food, and basically let the rain in Dallas take care of the watering. They seem to experience the same issues as the stuff we tore up earlier, and it basically looks like they are drying up from the bottom (see attached). Any ideas?
What did you tear up earlier? I would certainly not FEED them anymore; not until they get over this.
it was a similar plant to the one in the picture. It was originally planted by some landscaping guys, but it just never wanted to grow much. Is it possible to overwater such a plant? My sprinklers are one for about 7 minutes 3/week in that sector.
Yes, it is possible to overwater pretty much any plant (except for ones that naturally grow in ponds). Without knowing what your soil is like it's hard to say if 7 minutes 3 times a week is too much, too little, or just right...you might try sticking your finger down in the soil and see how it feels a couple inches down--if it's still wet and it's about time to water again then you know you're watering too much, but if it's bone dry then you're probably not watering enough. Plants usually do best with deeper less frequent watering--again it's hard to say without knowing what kind of sprinklers you have and what kind of soil you have, but 7 minutes may be more of a shallow watering, so you might be better off doing it less often but for longer periods of time.
As far as the ones you just planted, I agree with dp72 that you should stop fertilizing them--it's generally best to let newly transplanted things get adjusted to their new area first before you fertilize them. And plants that are under stress also shouldn't be fertilized.
seems something is killing it. may be a problem with the roots. juniper or juniper type shrubs are usually very hardy and drought tolerant. i would check soil and maybe if gets worse dig it back up and put in pot and see if it does better. if it does then something definatly wrong with soil and area.
as for feeding it. mine live on neglect.
I agree with a possible issue on watering and I also agree you should stop fertilizing them. Any plant can be over-fertilized but with new plants, it can burn the roots. They need time to establish their root system first. When I plant any new plant, I add Miracle Grow Quick Start and a little Super Thrive to the water I use at planting time only. After that, I don't fertilize until the following year.
It looks like you have the clay soil typical in your area. Do you think the soil could be waterlogged from overwatering? Have you amended your soil with organic matter to make it drain better? I wonder if the roots are drowning?
First, what shrub is that? have u tamped the roots so there isnt air pockets, killed off the June bug larva (Jap Beetles), dug the hole deeper than just enuff to make sure there isnt anything builders like to bury under the new yard so the roots can grow down, n water every 4 days max til hotter weather? Ummm, I wouldnt plant anything that close to my house either, i usually move it out so that later in life, I can get behind the plant for trims, to allow branches to shape natural, n so forth n so on, keeps the bldg heat from cooking the plant later this summer too, with an air space
by the way, lawn food is good for lawns, grasses, not really for ornamental shrubs, or what looks to be a cedar? type of plant
Fertilizer is fertilizer, as long as the analysis is proper for the plant. Plants can't read "Azalea food" or "Rose food" or "Lawn food." That's not to say that all fertilizers that say 20-5-10 or 20-0-0 are equal. The nitrogen should be at least 50% in slow-release form. Since his plants and grass are growing in the same soil, if he uses a fertilizer based on a soil analysis for his lawn, it is perfectly suited for his shrubs. (An exception would be soil especially amended or removed and replaced for a purpose, such as growing or attempting to grow azaleas in alkaline soil.)
Sorry. Not all fertilizers are created equal. no, no. n that 3 digit composition U r accustomed to thinking will cure all? is a very simple math formula that can cure or kill different plants. He just replanted that plant because the previous one died. SOMETHING was Not Right. All builders buy plants that come cheaper by the dozen to sell a house. Doesnt mean they did their homework and checked to see what might be right if the overall view was pleasant enuff to sell the place. The zone U live in? uses a 13-13-13 as a common fertilizer, check the local feedstore, or even walmart, Home Depot, Lowes...the problem might be that the plant needs a different ph, or room, or a totally different plant. Such as, would I plant a Red Maple or a Red Oak in the area of say, Midlothian, Tx. No. it would die. Silver would grow, tho. So that is why we r asking what the plant might be, n where in Dallas? - Sachse, Seagoville, Farmers Branch, Irving. Different soils circle Dallas
What can I say? Where would I start?
I have nothing to offer to the discussion on fertilizers, but I do wonder about one thing: If this is a newly built home, did the builder bring in good soil for the initial landscaping or is Jonas83 trying to grow plants in sterile construction dirt?
Jonas83 - go out about 15 or 20 feet from your house and dig up a shovelful of dirt - go down at least 12 inches, Now go do the same in the area near your house where these plants are dying. Does the dirt look similar? Is the dirt near your house pale tan, pale red, or just plain puny-looking?
What do you think, folks - could he be dealing with construction debris? It's happened to lots of folks - they bring in 3 inches of top soil and tell the homeowner it's all landscaped for them....
Definitely worth checking the soil, maybe even a soil analysis...you just never know what could be in the soil, it could have had some chemical or substance dumped in it at one time.
Ok, dirt appears in photo to be tan in color and streaked with reddish clay. I have always been told to pull mulch back away from the trunck/stem at least 3 to 4 times the diameter of the trunk/stem. That will allow the top of root ball to breath so to speak. Limits bug hiding places and reduces fungus growth. Again how deep is the actual top soil? Has soil been contaminated? You can normally get soil tests done at a local college ag-campus free. Test surface and down about a foot maybe two if suspected contamination. Also they will tell you what nutrients are lacking. The dirt around the shrub appears to grow weeds well but that is only the surface. Water is also an issue, most evergreens I have encountered, in my limited experience, like semi dry to lightly moist soil with plenty of organics mixed in. If they get to much water they will root rot every time. I can only guess you deeply watered at initial planting and now sprinklers and mother nature are doing it. If mother nature is doing enough and you add to it then too much. If not getting watered deeply then there are a whole new batch of issues. More information will be helpful for the old hands here to give a proper diagnosis of the problem and how to cure. Good Luck and good growing.
