Tomato seedlings are curvey

Leominster, MA

I planted some yellow & red grape tomato seeds 3-4 weeks ago. They popped up great but now they are about 4" tall & rather curvey. Some have their true leaves. They are in 3" peat pots under a grow light about 4" above them. I give them a slight breeze for a while daily. Should they be curvey or do I need to do something else? Other than that they look good.

Houston, TX(Zone 9a)

4" distance from your grow lights may be too far. I'd prop them up with DVD cases or books so the seedlings are practically touching the lights. They won't burn.

Leominster, MA

Thanks feldon30,
I thought that might be the case but this is my first time gardening since I was young and without Mom's help (she never used grow lights).
My lights are adjustible, so I can lower them as necessary.
Thanks again,
KichiGarden

Dalton, GA(Zone 7b)

I turn my ceiling fan on high in my seedling room--it is a gentle enough breeze they don't topple, but it makes the stems much stronger

Leominster, MA

I have an oscillating fan that I turn on medium about 4 to 5' away.They sway gently and seem to enjoy it. I also have a radio on. I don't know if it helps...but I figure it can't hurt. I talk to them when I can and touch them carefully. My honey calls them "the kids". I'm sure we're a bit crazy...but it's fun!

Livermore, CA(Zone 9b)

Nah, you're not crazy -- unless your putting little diapers on them ? :D

Hornell, NY(Zone 5a)

Okay Kichi - most tomatoes have to be "stemmed" at about the three week stage. Easiest way is to gently lift the little plant with your thumb and forefinger, poke a hole all the way down to the bottom of the flat with an old wooden pencil, then insert the plant in the hole. Try to get as much of the stem under the soil as possible without covering the leaves. It's best to lift the plant by the leaves rather than the stem if you can. It's also good to keep the temperature cool at 60 degrees or so, I even move mine in and outside when the weather is nice but don't let them freeze.

Al

Thumbnail by lycodad
Livermore, CA(Zone 9b)

I've had luck pinching the bottom two leaves off and replanting to cover. Do you pinch Al, or just let it be?

Leominster, MA

Thanks lycodad,
I didn't realize that I should do that now...I've only been told that you do that when they are transplanted. Appreciate the help.
Kichi

Oh, by the way, do they need bigger pots or are they ok in 3" pots for now?

Somerset, NJ(Zone 6b)

LycoDad,

That's an interesting one about stemming. I'd never head of that before...

Wouldn't stemming the tomato seedlings damage the roots that are established by pulling them straight out?

Would it make more sense for me to:

1) push the whole 'soil+seedling' out of the flat,
2) separate the seedling from the soil,
3) put the soil back in the flat and then
4) poke a hole in the re-potted soil to the bottom of the flat and place the undamaged seedling into it

Hornell, NY(Zone 5a)

I've used the stemming process described for years, it works just fine for me. I will start most of my tomatoes in Cool - Whip containers about 40-50 seeds at a time. After about 3 weeks time I will pull them straight out of the soil and stem them into flats as shown. To be honest, I'm not even too gentle about it, I just kind of yank them straight out. An old wooden pencil is used to make holes pushed all the way to the bottom of the flat.

The stemming process is not new at all, it's been used by greenhouse people for ages. I've sometimes seen a flat metal nail file (with a twisting motion) used for the same purpose. This transplant of sorts will definately strenghten the stems because they will reroot in the individual flats for bettter stability. I've had great results with this, very few failures using this system.

Al

Hornell, NY(Zone 5a)

Red - Your system will work too, just a little different than mine. I let them grow out a little bit, then trim off the lower starter leaves once the second leaves look healthy.

Sometimes for tomato newbies I will recommend using Jiffy-7 pellets to start. After 3-4 weeks all you do is drop them into the botttom of 12oz. foamy coffee cups and add potting soil to cover the stems. Poke a hole in the bottom for drainage, though. After another 3-4 weeks or so you'll have a really nice transplant.

Kitchi - Your 3" pots should work fine, just try to get as much stem under the soil as you can.

Al

This message was edited Mar 24, 2009 2:22 PM

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