Overwintering morning glories question

I will be playing with the metal halide soon...BUAHAHAHAHAHA hehehe. Metal halide + aquarium = more reason to sow mg seeeds hehehee = more mgs for me during the winter *crosses fingers* I hope this works

Eliz

looks really good there.. I am glad we can growinside the house I think it brightens me up over winter.. I would be glad to trade some seeds.. whats a lingonberry anyways??

lingonberries are like craneberries but not as tarty and not as big. I went to loblaws today and saw craneberries; this was my first time seeing them despite the fact that I live in an area where I can grow them easily I think. I went to Ikea and that's how I discovered them =9. I love cranberry sauces and lingonberry sauce.

I'll let you all know when I get seeds =D joeswife, would you also like to try lingonberry seeds? I don't know if they're hardy at your zone though, does it snow there? Perhaps I can give you some comes spring if you'd like.

ditto to plants brightening up winter seasons. I hope mine receives adequate light for them to bloom - I've been giving them fertilizers specifically for flowering plants. I think my I. lobata's having trouble with this, BUT again with the Xiong's (see pic below - sepals have already formed on them)

awsome, I am glad yours are doing so well! I would love to try a lingonberry .. I love cranberries but I think they grow in water, right?

hmmm not sure about cranberries growing in water; whenever we go cottaging up north (Algonquin, cottage country; just 2 hours away) and we go hiking in the woods we always find them underneath trees just tucked away in a little corner.

I'll keep you in mind for lingonberry seeds - still have to look for more info about their germination and shelf life though...

Those plants are sure looking good evr. I think mine are past the point of return. Oh well. I got some dwarf mgs from a trade, so I think I will just start my next year mgs as soon as I get all of the seeds off of my dying vines. I just brought out my lamps for the winter, so they will not lack light soon! :) I'm really excited to start the dwarf mgs (see http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/62241/)

evr - What are you using to get your mgs to climb?

I really need to get those lingonberry seeds started... Perhaps a weekend project. :)

I'm using bamboo stakes, they're on sale right now =D they're just the straight linear ones and then I tied 3 of them together and stick them in the pot. For the I. lobata, I used 2 curved ones but these ones are more expensive that the straight bamboo. Lemme know what happens with your lingonberry seeds =D.

I butchered one of my mgs today :'( I think I will try to get the dwarf mg started though. It will be fun to try something new.

I will have to hit a few places to check for bamboo stakes. It looked like they were working well.

I will definitely let you know what happens with the seeds :)

sorry to hear that =/. Let me know how your dwarf mgs turn out =D. I heard that some cultivars and/or species of Ipomoea do well inside the house.

You can still get bamboo stakes at home depot, they still have it in their outdoor section, walmart does not sell them anymore =/.

oh I forgot again lol..

You can try this method if you can't find stakes: http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/596764/

It's a home made spiral, cheaper in most cases when you have more than 10 mgs growing hehehehe ;)

What an interesting idea! Now, when will I have time to go shopping... [sigh] Hopefully before my mgs get too big! I am planting the dwarfs tonight, so they shouldn't be TOO big in two weeks :D I will just have to plant smart.

Redheaded, I too thought some of my vines were past the point of return, but I potted them up into larger pots, soaked them well, and brought them indoors on top of a desk which I surrounded with a large, thick piece of plastic, leaving the top open around a 4' light fixture.

This is supposed to maintain a higher humidity level indoors, and seems to be working, because now I can see new shoots beginning at leaf axils where the old leaves are dying off. Also, some of the pots (recycled qt-size yogurt containers) contain cuttings about 2 - 4 weeks old which always benefit from a plastic covering the first few weeks, and they are looking fine.

Plus! this not-too-attractive contraption is keeping my cats away - St. Ray is a very exploratory cat who will wrap his chops around anything. Gourd once wrote about using a shower curtain, and she was my inspiration for this, as well as for the idea of using small pots if you have little space but lots of vines (there is also a flat of 4" pots in hopes of getting at least 1 pod from some of these to perpetuate the cultivar).

great thread, Eliz

anyone else rescuing vines from the outdoors?

Karen

Do you think mine would come back if I chopped the vines back to the main plant? I haven't discarded my white one yet- still waiting for seed pods to dry. I didn't even think to root cuttings when mine started going downhill. I will have to experiment :D

Redhead, whether an over-the-hill vine will come back is hard to predict. Meag848's Akatsuki no Mai seemed just about done in by rust, but after spraying it with Neem, something else I don't remember off-hand, and then applying 3-in-1 Bayer (see sticky under FOES / Rust), it made new growth and was fine.

My guess is that hers had not made a whole lot of pods, and neither had mine, which I suspect is a factor in how well a vine can make a come-back. I further suspect that the more a vine has gone to seed, the less responsive it'll be to rejuvenation attempts.

Some MGs that behave more like perennials naturally might also lend themselves to returning after dormancy, like Ipomoea indica, for one. But I suspect that commonly grown MGs that belong to I. purpurea and I. nil are harder to treat like perennials. (I hate to use the word "annual" because I think that term is relative to what zone you live in.)

Hope this helps and hasn't made more of a muddle -

karen

Thanks! :) Perhaps I will experiment with the white one and if it comes back, it comes back. If not, I have seeds saved :) I will definitely try rooting cuttings though.

The cuttings that will work best will be those from the tips of new shoots where buds have not yet formed. Some cuttings taken with buds already formed will still root, but there will just be fewer successes. I don't know if disbudding cuttings matters as much to MGs as to other types of plants, but I do it anyway.

Another way to get some of your vine to root would be to lay part of it over the surface of potting medium in another pot nearby. In this instance, the section of vine you're attempting to root would still be attached to the mother plant, and you would put some medium on top of the part where you hope to see roots form, as well as weighing it down and/or stabilizing it somehow.

Well, neighbor has started up with drums -- I have ADD -- brain shuts down -- may your neighbors be kinder

Karen

I brought in four of mine yesterday...I will take a pic tomorow and then one later if they survive, for comparison.

Oh Karen your poor head!!

Ronnie

karen_blu - You mentioned that ;

"(I hate to use the word "annual" because I think that term is relative to what zone you live in.)"


This may be partially true in that some plants that are genetically perennial may be grown and treated as annuals in the colder zones where the root that is perennial in warmer climates will freeze to death in the colder zones...

The botanical classificational designation of annual has nothing to do with the climate zone that a plant is grown out in...

Plants that are genetic annuals are truly annuals in that various stimuli contribute to the death of the plant...such stimuli include biochemical feedback from the flowers and fruit to the main root system and the long red wavelengths that the plants receive in the Autumn when the sun is lower on the horizon > which sends a strong signal to the plant to 'get it's affairs in order'...

So,although there are annuals that will self-resow in colder zones,they are annuals because the plant will live for 1 season...there are ways to extend the life of annuals beyond 1 season,but these are not encountered in the natural environment...

The plants that are genetic annuals will only live for 1 season in even in very warm climates,so to be absolutely clear there are definitely perennials where the root of the plant will live for many years and there are annuals where the root will die after 1 season.

The fact that many annuals successfully self re-sow in any climates to start new separate plants or that some cold hardy perennials have roots which will survive the cold temperatures and re-sprout from the roots,or that some plants that are warm weather perennials may only be grown outdoors as annuals because the roots will die when the temperatures get too cold for them does not change the science of botany regarding classifying plants as definite annuals or perennials...

The PlantFiles thankfully does follow the science of botanical classification as per true annuals and true perennials...


Hope that helps to clarify....


Ron

Luvs - good luck with those vines you brought in. I hope everyone bringing in vines from the garden to continue growing indoors after frost will keep sharing experiences. If I lose my cutting of Akatsuki no Murasake, at least - hopefully - I'll learn how to do something like this better next time.

Well, about the time the drums stopped, construction noise from nearest highway started up - that high-pitched, pulsing beep over and over and over, above other lower-pitched rhythms - Ron, perhaps this is payback for using imperative when conditional would have been more accurate with respect to annuals and perrenials.

as I've been mentioning before, I had the opportunity to use halide lights. I was very limited in space so I've decided to use the Aquarium also (this space is mainly for identification of bloom colour leaves etc). I was still very limited in horizontal and specially vertical space, but I think I will keep trimming the mgs so that they won't grow as tall.

Speaking of trimming/rooting, I accidentally broke off the tips of Xiong's and I just put it beside the "mother" plant supported by the bamboo stake. Didn't pay much attention to it but it's growing =D. I also think that by trimming and keeping your plants shorter than usual, they expend their energy more on creating blooms (shorter time?). I have another Xiong's that I did not trim and it takes longer for the buds to form and they were pretty small. Trimming and a shorter time for the flowers to bloom I think is good for me, since I just want to see what colour the blooms will be, not for seed production.

This is the aquarium with the halide lights shared by my hoya cuttings that just fell 9 feet from the wall =(. Currently tending to plants that got damaged.......

This message was edited Oct 23, 2008 10:05 AM

but after seeing Xiong's bloom, it made my day =D.

PS. picture below is a repeat in one of the threads ;)

and the pic below are the unknown seedlings from Ronnie labeled "Ipomoea nil mix" and "special Japan mix". They seem to be doing excellent in their home, but I do get one or two seelings wilting on me, but they spring back to life

Eliz

This message was edited Oct 23, 2008 10:08 AM

Nice looking setup and plants :) I have my dwarf mg seeds planted. Hopefully there will be some sprouts before long :D Still haven't planted the lingonberries though...

Yay dwarf mgs up :) I have two little plants up (with hopefully more on the way) and I planted my lingonberries today. Hopefully there will be something to show soon :)

thank you redhead =). You planted your dwarfs inside? I have seeds from trade and from purchase that I want to sow just because I want to see the colour of the blooms/figure out the cultivar - my space permits me from doing so.........BUT I think I'm becoming delusional because I've sowed half of them regardless of me stapling an envelope stuffed with mg seeds (it's a preventative measure that did not work according to plan) =/. They're very addicting and I believe that this is a dangerous hobby for me =/. I'm using my bigger pots that has my anthurium in it and my alocasias. Some mgs are sharing pots with cacti lol. *scratches head* yess...very addicting. Currently housing over 50 seedlings for bloom colour, not ready for hybridizing as of yet (still have to determine if they come true for F1 generation ;)).

Mine seem to be doing very well in the aquarium..I know they're kinda small but they're not for "show" purposes (for id purpose when they bloom hopefully).

**crosses fingers for redhead's lingonberry seeds** those suckers are stubborn.

Eliz

my mgs' in brought in are very healthy and happy, and the sprouts are doing well..;)

heres a pic of some that are sprouting.. ( I have too many to post)

my backyard is down here in my basement, patio table and all..and the freezer room is a nursey as well

That's a good idea to use that weight bench as a plant stand!! LOL!!

ROTFLMBO! I love your grow room, Debra! And I agree with Ronnie ... the weight bench looks like it is providing a great area to grow some plants! LOL! Might make a nice trellis for the vines to climb all over! :-) What kind of lighting are you using in the room?

Eliz - I would've never thought of using an aquarium for growing MGs! Keep us posted on all those seedlings! I hope you have great luck growing and getting them all to bloom! :-)

thanks, Becky.. no one else is using the weight bench, or the walker for that matter ( right beside it for a trellis lol)
I have several spot lights ( shop lights from walmart 5.95 aimed at the plants and a big 1500 lumins in the celing, and a huge galring shop light facing the whole garden for when I am home.. it is very sunny in here to say the least.. the water in the tubs and the fountain are used for rooting cuttings and I love the sound of the water.. here is a pic of the freezer room nursey and my MG's there..

oops fergot the pic LOL

this is my favorite blue MG so far, I think you and Ron id for me as heavenly Blue?

just one more and I will quit.. these seeds are from the "scarlet O'hara" I had planted on the south side of the house.. the seeds and pods were twice as big as the others I have around here.. sorry for the glare and the fuzziness,,

Debra -

Ipomoea lobata
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=5753439


Seedpods here
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=5753459
are a mixture of Ipomoea hederacea,Ipomoea nil and Ipomoea purpurea

evr - I have three that have germinated now :D I think I ended up planting five seeds or something. I just have them in a 6-pack right now so they will all fit under my light. Once they get a bit bigger, I am going to transplant them into the containers I used for my mgs during the summer. :) Still haven't seen any action in the lingonberry cell.

joeswife - Looks like you have a pretty good system going there! I wish my place were bigger so I could have more plants :D I have finished collecting seed from my white mg if you are still interested.

Here are my little mgs. Not very big yet!

Ron, sorry I posted the wrong picture of the Heavenly blue.. and the Ipomoea hederacea you ID for me is it the small seed then? here is the baby heavenly blues ( I think) LOL how the heck can you tell these things apart?

here's the latest of purple blizzard sprout from Becky

redheadedwonder11 - The cotyledons that you posted here
http://pics.davesgarden.com/pics/redheadedwonder11_1225929236_598.jpg
look to be Convolvulus if MG's,not Ipomoea...

Debra - The photo here

http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=5757396
has several different vines growing in the same container...the leaf by your (?) hand is tri-lobed and so that it not Ipomoea tricolor...

Ipomoea tricolor does not produce tri-lobed leaves...


The photo here
http://pics.davesgarden.com/pics/joeswife_1225851601_244.jpg
has at least 3 I.purpurea pedicels in it...

Lower center an Ipomoea pedicel has part of an empty tan capsule at it's base...lower left there is a faded pedicel that is a purpurea pedicel and the base of it is curving to the left and seems to be touching the base of another purpurea pedicel having the upper capsular portion partially covered by the pedicel of what looks to be yet another purpurea fruit...the faded pedicel has it's basal portion on top of an I.nil fruit

The fruit in the lower right in an Ipomoea nil as is the fruit near the top of the seed pile with the pedicel pointing slightly SouthWest with a single seed at the point of the detached base...

The other fruits look to be Ipomoea hederacea...

Learning the simple basics of distinguishing the different species will save you alot of time later on before they become re-mixed up again,making distinguishing the plants and separating out the different seeds even more challenging...

The I.purpurea have seedpod pedicels which reflex(bend downwards) strongly as shown in the PlantFile photos here
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/132998/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/31407/
seeds
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/90979/

Ipomoea hederacea fruit pedicels remain erect and pointed upward with sepal tips that recurve backwards as seen in the PlantFIle photos here
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/125101/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/125103/

Ipomoea nil have sepals which are similar to Ipomoea hederacea being long and thin,but although they may arch outwards the sepals very rarely show the sharper curvature of the sepal tips as seen on Ipomoea hederacea...the fruit remains erect in Ipomoea nil
Ipomoea nil
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/78938/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/124448/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/124570/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/152329/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/137631/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/152681/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/124571/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/55112/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/213032/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/91303/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/169360/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/84351/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/113380/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/185118/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/55120/
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=2654312
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=2681993
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=2682001
seedpods
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=2701639

comparison of 3 very similar,but different Ipomoea nil cultivars including sepal characteristics
Hatsu Arashi,Heian Umi and Berlin Blue
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=1681054
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=1731386


Ipomoea tricolor has relatively short sepals which always remain flush against the capsule and the plant has absolutely no hair on it at all at any time...
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/106781/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/156963/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/156965/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/89823/
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/90108/
cotyledons
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/78515/
seeds
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/9427/


Hope that helps...

TTY,...

Ron


This message was edited Nov 8, 2008 6:29 AM