thick mildew on climbing roses

Me yet again. I have a beautiful climber rose that, unlike my other roses, is covered in mildew, thick thick mildew, on leaves and buds. Is there anything I can do without using chemicals? If I cut it all out I'll have nothing left. I also have black spot and aphids. I'm keeping the aphids under control with watered down dishsoap (advise from someone in a different thread), but the mildew is my biggest concern. I think the cool weather is a contributor, and the plant doesn't get full day sun--but it still gets a lot. I have another bush that's very shaded and it's doing much better. Go figure!

I have heard that milk is supposed to help mildew and aphids(according to this article):

http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Milk%20and%20mildew.pdf

It also says it may not be as effective as everyone believes, but that its worth a try. Just a thought!

Good luck!

Kristie

Hi Maggie, what you are describing sounds like grey mould, this is quite common on some types of Roses that are either not getting enough air flow around the foliage/plant as it is tied too close the the wall, or the ground at the roots is too dry, being rooted close to a wall means that the soil dries out rather quickly, there are climbing roses grown now-a-days that are more mold resistant as this is a big problem for some older types, I know of no other way to get rid of this problem without chemical sprays, BUT even for this to work, you need to also improve the growing conditions or it will just return,
The other thing you need to do is gather up all the fallen and dying leaves that come from this plant and either burn them or dispose of them properly as the mold spores can over winter in the soil and it will just restart the problems all over again, as does the black spot, the aphids etc are attaching the plant because it is already weak and sickly and under stress, they would have no real adverse effects if the plant was healthy as it would be able to survive a few aphids eating it, but in the state it is in right now, it cant fight off everything all at the same time, do you know what the rose name is as this might be one that does get this problem easily. cutting it right back and burning everything that you remove is the best solution right now till you get the mold under control, other wise, you are going to loose the rose anyway. Good luck. WeeNel.

Mildew Relief Tonic

2 tbsp. of baby shampoo
2 tbsp. of hydrogen peroxide
2 tsp of instant tea granules
4 cups of water.
Mix in hand held sprayer. Apply midafternoon on a cloudy day.

1/4 c. of baking soda
1 tbl vegatable oil
2 quarts water
Spray early in the morning and then every 2 weeks for the rest of the growing season.

These are from master gardener Jerry Baker. I have 2 of his books. They are great. I hope this helps.

Thanks to all of you. The rose has been here for donkey's years from what I can tell, and what the neighbors say. I hate to cut it back right now--I'm going to try the tonic spray from master gardener. It certainly could be needing airflow, as it is right close to the house and tied off closely. I think this is because it frames a window, like in a cottage garden. It could need more water, I'll give it a shot. I am diligent about keeping the area clean, but I'll increase the diligence too! If these things won't help it out, there's nothing for it but to cut it back I guess. I don't know if anyone ever did that in the past.

I had to do this cutting back in our old home, I had a climbing Rose that no amount of help would keep the mildew away, even though I always kept a close eye out for it starting to show signs, it was the root area too dry so close to the house, the type of rose was known to have this problem and the rose was tied right against the house, cutting it right back will not kill the rose but it will remove the problem part and it will send out new growth, maybe not flower again this year, but with less foliage, you will have a better chance of dealing with the problem. Now when I plant climbing plants against a wall I always get the frame set bout 4/6 inches away from the wall to allow air to flow around the foliage and it stops the stems from being damaged by tight ties and rubbing the wall when it is windy, to do this, save up some old cotton reels that you buy thread for sewing, then use long screws to go through the wooden frame and the cotton reels, the reels act like a large washer and sets the frame off the walls, it looks neat and tidy and they dont rot, just an idea mt Dad gave me as he used this method when he was alive, good luck. WeeNel.

Again, thank so much to everyone. I definitely have all the problems that you people have suggested might cause this problem. Too close to the wall, tied tightly, and it's not as sunny as I'd like for a rose either. But the location--how beautiful it looks at a distance framing my window! I just don't know what I'll do, but I suspect that if the 'medicine' doesn't work, or at least help, I'll be chopping it off. The honeysuckle at the side window is as happy as can be. The last owner wove the two together, they're planted near each other at the corner of the back and side yare, but I didn't like them together, so I'm training the honeysuckle along the side of the house and leaving the roses to the front. Maybe I should just let the honeysuckle grow in both directions and forget the rose. Such decisions. I'm having fun with it all though. Beats the work days all to heck!

If the home remedies listed above don't work, try Neem oil. I started using it this year to treat redberry mites on my blackberries. The info I read said it also worked on roses for black spot and mildew so I gave it a try. I don't have mildew but do get blackspot on two of my roses. The Neem oil got rid of it very well. If you can't find it locally, dmail me and I will give you the site where I got mine. They had to best prices and got it delivered to me within 3 days.

Thanks Naturelover. I've got the tonic ready to go and am expecting cloudy weather by Wednesday to apply it. I'll email about the Neem oil if I need it and can't find it here. I'm keeping my fingers and toes crossed for a remedy!

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Well, I've sprayed the rose bush with the tonic--we'll see. I'll spray again in two weeks. It's blooming quite nicely, but up close it's looking nasty. I pulled it away from the house and cut some of the ties, so it's not as genteel as it was, but perhaps it can breathe more easily!

It's been close to two weeks since I sprayed my rose bush with tonic. Meanwhile, the weather has improved, and the roses are just covering the bush. It still looks wretched up close, but it is not getting worse, and I think it's even a bit better. I've been careful to give it lots of water too. I will spray it again in a few more days and keep you all informed, in case someone is interested in the success of the spray.

Thanks, I too have inherited older plantings that aren't in quite the right spots and your shared experience helps me understand what is happening here.

I always have a running battle with a bit of mildew here and there in my dry climate in Kamloops, B.C. (semi-desert). Maggie is correct in saying that some roses are much more disease resistant than others. Some roses (as well as other plants) are especially susceptible to powdery mildew. To keep the risk to a minimum, as has been mentioned....keep your plant from getting too dry, but it is most important to water earlier in the day so that the water dries off the plant itself as soon as possible. That is the main problem I have. We are restricted in time and I am often forced to water in the evening and THAT is when trouble really starts. Good ventilation has been mentioned already. The baking soda formula should work. Although I haven't tried it myself, it is one that is recommended in Rodale's Chemical Free Yard and Garden. Rodale does their own garden research and have been promoting this kind of approach for many years. They do suggest that you start using it at the very first sign of mildew for the best results. You will know to watch for powdery mildew next year and catch it before it becomes advanced. It often starts with some purple colouring on the lower leaves. I can understand your reluctance to remove the flowers and leaves now, but at the very least strip everything away at the end of the season, and dispose of in the garbage, as this can spread easily to some other plants in your garden. It would be a good idea to wash you hands and any cutting implement after doing that too.

Ferne, Kamloops, B.C.