Seed Starting: Hardening Off and Planting Out

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

I've been posting a series of "Seed Starting 101" articles this year. Last week's article was on hardening off, and today's article had some tips on planting out.

http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/914/

http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/941/

I thought it would be fun to start a thread for further discussion of both those topics... please post questions, comments, tips, etc... share your experiences here! I'll bet we can all learn a lot from each other. :-)

Thumbnail by critterologist
Watertown, WI(Zone 5a)

Thanks for the super-helpful articles, critterologist!

I found today that I have a great spot to start hardening off my seedlings. They're in my mud room on a shelf by the window. I open the window to the spring breeze which not only cools them but blows them around a bit, too. Even after just one breezy day today I'm already imagining they look a little tougher. :)

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

That's a great idea, Kayly! What a good way to get the process started without hauling them in/out, in/out... hmm, I'd be wondering about moving my shelves next to a window I could open, except that I like being able to make a big mess in the basement, LOL.

Spartanburg, SC

Thanks for the great (and timely) articles - Your information is a blessing to those of us who are still learning, and sometimes failing, and I for one greatly appreciate you willingness to share ! I have a few questions, though - What are true leaves, when do they show up, how soon after they show up can you plant and to what depth are you supposed them ?

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

The first leaves that pop up when a seed sprouts are cotyledons, also known as "nurse leaves." The next set of leaves that develops are the first "true" leaves, and they're called that because they usually look like the leaves of that plant "should" look, in shape and color. (Cotyledons often look nothing like the true leaves... tomato seedlings don't even smell like tomato plants until they get their first true leaves.)

There are photos in the article on clump transplanting that should help... I transplant most seedlings deeper than they were growign in the seed starting tray, sometimes burying the cotyledons and planting them so the first set of true leaves is just above the surface of the potting mix.

Kilgore, TX(Zone 8a)

Thank you so much, Critter. Appreciate the time you take to explain. Very useful knowledge! Thanks, Michelle

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

We're all still learning! Questions and discussions are great, because we often end up with answers and suggestions we hadn't considered before... Especially in gardening, there's really no "one true way" to do things. Different things work for different people, so talking about how and why we do things is really valuable. :-)

Spartanburg, SC

Ok, my seedlings now have a 2nd set of leaves under the first ones - Are these "true leaves" ? Also, I am confused about how deep to plant since the cotyledons are the leaves on top and the true leaves are the second set (meaning lower than the cotyledons) -I am hearing you say to plant seedlings deeper than they were planted as seed - "sometimes burying the cotyledons and planting them so the first set of true leaves is just above the surface of the potting mix" - How is this possible if the first set of leaves are called cotyledons and the second set are true leaves ? Should I repot my seedlings in larger containers once they are a certain height but it is not time for planting in the garden ?

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

The second set of leaves -- the "true leaves" -- will generally form on top of the first set of cotyledons. I'm not sure I've ever seen true leaves form under the cotyledons (not saying it couldn't happen).

How did you sow your seeds? And what are you growing? If they're already in a big enough pot, you may not need to transplant them... If you check out my "sowing and clump transplanting" article, you'll see I usually sow seeds in a seed starting tray and then transplant to a larger pot (2 inches for most things) to grow the seedlings on until it's time to plant them out in the garden.

This is the article on transplanting I keep referring to: http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/862/

Nyack, NY(Zone 6b)

Hi there - I have a question about the planting out. Your article mentioned to lay plants down in a sloping trench instead of burying them deep. At some point, you do bury them though, right? I have a bunch of seedlings I am trying to save that grew too tall from lack of light (remember me?). After using lights indoors, and tying them up on skewers, many of them have thick growth at the top but are still pretty tall so I want to bury the stems. Can you explain more about this technique?

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

Instead of digging a 12 inch deep hole, I dig a 5 or 6 inch deep sloping trench and BURY, yes bury, them sort of sideways... I'm sorry if it wasn't clear that after you lay the seedlings in the trench you should fill soil in on top of them in the trench the same way you'd do if you planted them in a traditional hole. I pretty much do the trench method only for tomatoes... I can't think of anything else that would need to be buried that much at planting-out time.

Are these tomato seedlings that you're describing?

Nyack, NY(Zone 6b)

No, I have zinnia and sunflowers that i'm trying desperately to save, just a couple of them. Should i just tie them to a stake? When i did that a couple of them bended to the side, the stem made a right angle i mean so i don't know if i tied them too tight.

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

If the stem isn't sturdy, the wind can take them and bend them like that, especially if they're a little top heavy. I don't think you can plant zinnia or sunflower seedlings quite as deeply as tomatoes... although I appreciate that you're trying to save these seedlings that you've been nurturing along, you might be ahead to direct sow some more seeds in your garden. I've grown zinnias and sunflowers both by direct sowing, and they've done fine that way. If you want to start them in cell packs, that's fine too -- but plant them out when they're just a few inches high (one or two sets of true leaves), before they get so tall.

Plano, TX

critter you sent me some tomato seeds that i direct sowed and they are doing great! eventually will i have to mound dirt around the stem to bury deep?

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

If they're doing great, I'd say -- don't mess with success!

Burying deep is a good way to get the root system off to a good start when you're planting out from 2 inch pots (small rootballs), and it's also a good way to deal with leggy transplants.

Plano, TX

ok

(Bre) Sellersville, PA(Zone 7a)

Just wanted to say "hello" Critter! I love your articles - you have a great wrighting style! They have taught me alot since I've been on DG - and my seedlings also thank you!!
Please - keep 'em comming-
bre

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

Thanks, bre! I really enjoyed doing the "Seed Starting 101" articles... I learned a lot just from trying to put the whole process down in words, not to mention all the great feedback I got! I learn something new every time I log onto DG, I think. :-)

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