This is a division of my Lathryus Vernus. the leaves should not be this color. I'll post the normal one next. Why is it doing this and is it going to be okay? I planted this division last year just after blooming in May. It grew to a healthy size and bloomed just fine this spring but the leaves have been changing color until they have reached this brilliant chartreuse color. What should I do? (actually it's pretty isn't it?)
This message was edited Jun 1, 2007 10:11 PM
And here's how it should look.
Have you fertilized it recently? Those are chlorotic leaves - needing nutrition.
No I haven't fertilized it but then I never fertilize my borders except for the roses. If the soil here is a problem wouldn't some of the other plants show some similar signs of trouble? The Lathryus looks so healthy except for the color. I will try feeding it. Should I use just a general fertilizer for flowers?
Thanks for the help.
That is happening to my itea. It is called chlorosis, and is caused by an iron deficiency. Particularly in clay soils, iron (Fe) binds to the soil particles and is not available for uptake to the plant, causing yellowing between the veins of leaves. The problem is even worse in high pH (alkaline) soils. You could take a soil sample to your local county extension office to test the soil pH level, or do a soil test yourself using an inexpensive (though less accurate I'm told) soil test kit. Or you could just go ahead (as I did) and try to lower the pH, to see if that helps. I used Hollytone on the itea a couple of weeks ago. Or you could use plain soil sulfur. Carefully follow the directions on the package. In either case, this method takes time to work. So far, it's helped, but only a little. If you want instant green up, you can spray on Miracid, but that's only a temporary fix. You would still need to get the pH down, or use a clay soil conditioner, in order to correct the cause of the problem. Adding lots of organic matter to the soil, in the form of aged compost and damp peat or humus, will also break up the clay some. Do not use dry peat ( you may have to soak it overnight in a tub of water to rewet it before use). Using cedar bark mulch (as I do) is okay, but since it robs the soil of nitrogen, I probably should have scratched in some Hollytone earlier this spring. Ammonical nitrogen is the ingredient that greens up the plant, but it is quickly used up. I hope this helps, if you have more questions, feel free to ask.
Chlorosis can have many different causes. This web site has photos that may help you identify the nutrient that is missing in your case. Check your pH for sure.
http://4e.plantphys.net/article.php?ch=t&id=289
That's true garden mermaid, but Waukegan is not too far from here, and it's a fairly common problem. You're right about checking the pH to be certain. Here are some more links that might help explain it better than I can.
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1009.html
http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/h411ironchlorosis.html
http://www.extension.umn.edu/newsletters/planthealth/FM1013.html
Thanks for the information. I'm checking out those links and I'll be trying out some of the advice as soon as possible.
Thanks again,
Chris
