fruit tree planting

Is it okay to plant a fruit tree next to a building as long as there's plenty of sunlight and room or below a building where it still gets full sun.

I wouldn't offer you any advice on that matter without knowing many more details about the exact circumstances you are asking about.

Show pictures of the exact place you are describing; describe the soil and moisture conditions; circulation and drainage patterns; use of building and building materials present; etc.

Also, the fruit-
can it be harvested in that location?
would fruit drop be a problem?
some fruit attracts pests such as yellow jackets (around here), roof rats, squirrels and others. Is this so close to a building that these pests might find their way into the building?

It's never a good idea to plant ANY tree's close to buildings, remember, the tree you plant now maybe 8 feet tall will in about five years MAYBE be 15 feet tall, maybe as wide and being in full sun, they send their roots out to search for water, so being close to buildings NOT a good idea because the building pulls lots of heat from the sun and reflects this back onto any plantings close to it, some trees also spread there roots over a wide area and can reach the building or structures but find the soil against the building way too dry.
These are many reasons NOT to plant anywhere close to structures, buildings, etc BUT there are also reasons to use such growing situations to the plants advantage for shelter, shade, light etc.

What I would like from you is further info, re, what type of fruit tree are you planning on growing,
IS there enough room for root AND top growth to spread,
What type of soil do you have, (Acidic or Neutral,)
Is the place you live in where you want to plant the fruit tree a long term residence or short term as there are some really nice fruit tree's that can be grown perfectly well within a large pot making it easy to be moved with you IF you do move in a couple of years.
Are you aware that some fruit tree's need a secondary tree to be planted close by to help pollinate the femail tree that gives the fruit. NOT all fruit trees need this as some now-a-days are self fertile but cant tell you IF the fruit is as good.

Get back to us with the type of fruit you want, a picture of the area would be even more helpful, colour of flower, all this will help everyone give you the best info you need.

Good luck and kind Regards.
WeeNel.

Its red haven peach trees and I planning on staying and its red clay. As far as size goes I am going to prune for a small size for easier picking.

Dwarf peaches generally stay under 10', and may be just about as wide, especially if they are pruned that way. A standard tree will probably try to get about twice that size, and be harder to keep smaller. Give it room between the trunk and building so you can harvest it. Keep the area under it fairly clear (mulch is good. Lots of small plants is not) so you can prune, harvest, spray and whatever else it needs.

You could espallier a peach, though it is not as commonly done. This means growing it relatively flat against the wall like a vine. The growth habit is not as easy to train that way. This is a good way to grow a fruit tree that needs a little more warmth than your climate offers, but is not good if your zone is so hot the plant will burn in the hot summer days.

If I were you I would amend the soil at the planting hole, the red clay is not the best for holding onto nutrients that fruit tree's require, by adding as much humus as you can by way of Animal (horse manure) well rotted, it should NOT smell horrid, it should crumble when rubbed in your hands and should look dark brown like good quality compost, OR store bought compost, or leaf mould, any natural composted material that will help break up the clay, it will offer food / nutrients to the soil, let air into the very cloggy clay and give the fruit tree a good start.

Unfortunately I dont know that fruit tree? peach known as Red Haven, however, all peaches require the same after dare.
Here in many UK gardens where there is a wall (South Facing) they grow Peaches against the wall and they are Fan Trained, these take up less space, they are trained into fan shape by stringing wires along the wall spaced about a foot between each wire. Then you need to have the main upwards growing and tied onto the vertical wires, dont cut the main stem, next you look for a side facing branch and when still young and soft wood, you tie this along the wires, same on the opposite side. Each spring, you prune the side branches, and you remove any side growth that sprouts from the main trunk that grows in between the tied fanned branches. it takes several years to reach the best shape BUT, each year the tree still gives off fruit. In really cold weather, you may need to throw a light net curtain over the fanned tree to protect the blossom from frost or birds, the birds love the blossom as it is still in the bud state.
When I was a child, My Dad used to run a wire a foot above to highest wire above the main stem, he hung a net curtain on hooks to allow it to run across the top wire, we used to be sent out just as dark was falling we went out to help Dad close the net curtain across the blossom filled Peach to help prevent the night frost turn the blossom brown and non fertile so no fruit. I think lot's of gardeners here still grow their peaches this way as the wall holds onto the heat from the sun and helps protect the flowers, Peaches flower very early spring and usually before most other fruits are budding. I know here you can buy the peach tree's already started into shape for fan training.
Hope this helps you out.
Take care and Kind Regards.
WeeNel.

If I were you I would amend the soil at the planting hole, the red clay is not the best for holding onto nutrients that fruit tree's require, by adding as much humus as you can by way of Animal (horse manure) well rotted, it should NOT smell horrid, it should crumble when rubbed in your hands and should look dark brown like good quality compost, OR store bought compost, or leaf mould, any natural composted material that will help break up the clay, it will offer food / nutrients to the soil, let air into the very cloggy clay and give the fruit tree a good start.

Unfortunately I dont know that fruit tree? peach known as Red Haven, however, all peaches require the same after dare.
Here in many UK gardens where there is a wall (South Facing) they grow Peaches against the wall and they are Fan Trained, these take up less space, they are trained into fan shape by stringing wires along the wall spaced about a foot between each wire. Then you need to have the main upwards growing and tied onto the vertical wires, dont cut the main stem, next you look for a side facing branch and when still young and soft wood, you tie this along the wires, same on the opposite side. Each spring, you prune the side branches, and you remove any side growth that sprouts from the main trunk that grows in between the tied fanned branches. it takes several years to reach the best shape BUT, each year the tree still gives off fruit. In really cold weather, you may need to throw a light net curtain over the fanned tree to protect the blossom from frost or birds, the birds love the blossom as it is still in the bud state.
When I was a child, My Dad used to run a wire a foot above to highest wire above the main stem, he hung a net curtain on hooks to allow it to run across the top wire, we used to be sent out just as dark was falling we went out to help Dad close the net curtain across the blossom filled Peach to help prevent the night frost turn the blossom brown and non fertile so no fruit. I think lot's of gardeners here still grow their peaches this way as the wall holds onto the heat from the sun and helps protect the flowers, Peaches flower very early spring and usually before most other fruits are budding. I know here you can buy the peach tree's already started into shape for fan training.
Hope this helps you out.
Take care and Kind Regards.
WeeNel.

WeeNel's description of Fan Trained is the same as Espallier. Works great in milder climates that do not really get warm enough to ripen the fruit. In a warmer climate, though, it can get too hot for some plants.

You are absolutely correct Diana, I just dont know the zone where the tree's are to be planted.
Thanks for the extra info re climate.
Kindest Regards.
WeeNel.

Even in a hot climate the north or north-east side of a building will not get so hot, nor reflect too much heat. (in the northern hemisphere).

Waynesville NC is quite a ways inland, somewhere around zone 6-7 (winter can reach 0 deg. F). Plenty of chill factor for a peach. Summer high temps are generally into the 80s (F) and records include some low 90s. This would be too warm for a peach against a south or south-west facing wall, but could be OK 10'+ away from such a wall. Depends on the micro-climate.

Yeah its in the blue ridge mountains got about 6inch of snow today.