Question about gardening that I seen on on tv shows.

I hear some people say do not use any soil amendments when planting trees so the roots will spread out into the native soil but on tv shows like ask this old house they are always adding something to the planting hole when planting is it better no to add anything or add something.

It is better to add amendments to the surface of the soil after you have planted, if you are not preparing a really large area. This way, you are not creating an odd disparity of soil quality in a planting hole compared to the rest of the area in which your tree will spend the rest of its life. Did the TV show mention that the tree will eventually have roots growing as far from the trunk as the tree is tall, or farther? What about all that soil?

It is better to spend your time loosening soils, so that tree roots can spread further sooner to exploit more soil nutrients and moisture - like you would for a vegetable garden. Almost no one does that.

The research is sort of all over the place on this.

If the existing soil is pretty good, and is the right chemistry for the plant, then planting with no soil amendment is just fine. Dig the hole in such a way that root growth is directed down and out and the roots will get going into the native soil pretty fast.

If the existing soil is not very good, then amending with whatever will help correct the problems, and digging a wider hole is a good idea.

In an extreme case you might need to excavate and remove existing soil and import a better soil. This is not something for a beginner to do, however.

Here is the problem:
Water and roots do not penetrate through barriers very well. If you create a totally different kind of soil mix to back fill the hole, it is almost like planting in a container: The roots may not ever leave that hole. This is especially bad in soils with a high clay content. Digging a hole the wrong way smooths the sides like a potter working a clay pot, creating a slick surface that is about the worst for allowing the roots to get out into the native soil. Creating a transition from soil the plant came in (often high in organic matter) to a blend of organic matter and native soil, then into native soil (and roughen the sides of the hole) is generally the best way to handle this.

Undermining the plant by disturbing the soil at the bottom of the hole can allow the plant to subside with the end result that it is planted too deep. Very few plants thrive when they are planted deeper than they were in their container. If you have to disturb the soil under the plant then do your best to compact the fill, and plant a bit higher to allow it to settle. Water it in well, and if it settles, replant it.

Here's how tree's are planted here in UK regardless of the garden soil etc. AND it has been the same method for ALL tree's down the ages since gardeners wanted tree's in their gardens.

Only select a tree / sapling (young tree) that will grow in your area, your type of soil (Acid / neutral) by doing a soil test (kit very cheep from garden store) the kits help you find the PH of your soil BUT make sure you do a test in various areas as soil can vary from one spot to another though very rarely by much, the test will tell you what is deficient and needed added to alter the PH. these testing kits cost about 10 dollars IF that, and can be used over and over again, I've had my latest on for 3 years and still use it.

For tree's, regardless of the type, look at the pot size the tree is in, dig the hole 3/4 times wider and deeper, use a barrow or lay large sheet on the ground and use the soil you removed from the hole and mix with as much manure / compost / leaf -mould you can get your hands on, put some of the mix in the bottom of the hole and sit the pot in the hole to see IF the top of the pot is too low or too high, the tree MUST be planted at the same level as it sits in the pot, IF planted too low, you will put soil way UP the trunk, IF too high above the ground, the roots become exposed and the tree suffers frost damage, drought, insects can nibble the soft tissue etc, so you can lay a stick across the hole when you insert the tree and check the levels are right.
Lift the pot/tree out and put more soil MIX into the hole and check again, firm the soil at the hole bottom so after planting the tree wont slip deeper than required.
By adding the manure (I prefer Horse manure well rotted as most stables like to get rid, by well rotted that means looks like dark composted soil, no horrible smell ) and crumbles in your hand when rubbed between fingers and thumb. all the others may be easier to get hold off BUT go for good quality compost from garden store not from an unknown origin where anything could be added.
Once happy with the top level, remove the tree from pot, gently use your fingers to tease out some of the fine roots (this is to help stop the roots growing round and round in circles for the rest of it's life, remember a tree will be planted in the same spot for a whole lot of years so proper prep is best done right at the start.
When your happy with the placed tree, hammer a tree stake into the ground without breaking any roots, (I mark the place and then remove the tree to hammer the stake into place).
Next place the tree removed from pot into it's final place and use the rest of your soil mix to back fill the hole, as you do this, after a few spadefuls of soil, use the toe of your boot or shoe and gently firm down the soil as you add more, This firming removes any air pockets that cause soil to sink after watering and you want the soil around ALL the roots.
IF your tree is bare rooted, (No soil or pot, remove any root covering, place the rooted tree in a bucket of water for a few hours as the roots can become dry, spread out the roots in the planting hole and look for the mark at the base to show you where the leave needs to be set when finding the depth to plant the tree as you dont have the pot to guide you.
when back filling you can add some tree feed, acidic feed for acidic soil or a multi purpose for neutral soil, this helps give the tree the best start you can, tread around the top soil in the hole and then TIE the tree to the stake by either using something like ladies old panty- hose as this is soft and stretches, dont tie too tight as you dont want to damage the bark letting disease or insects into a wound. there are also tree ties made from rubber you purchase from the garden store, make sure you loosen them and check regularly as too tight as the tree grows also causes damage.

As you have the tree in the same soil for a long, long time, (probably out live you) then watering is
important, when I plant trees or larger shrubs, I place an upturned empty plastic juice container into the planting hole, remove the bottom and leave a couple of inches above soil level, when you water, fill the container up a couple of times and this gets the water way down to the roots where most required. it make sure the water you use never runs off the surface and never getting to the roots.
I leave this watering container in place several years and as soon as I think the young tree is completely self sufficient, then I remove this watering jug and back fill the space left.

Make sure you check your tree and shrubs, remove any badly damages twigs or branches as these can cause any diseases to travel to other branches being transferede by wind, insects or birds.

Hope this helps out, yes I know there are ALWAYS new methods and different notions where gardening is concerned BUT, I go with the thought, WHY change a method that has worked, proven to get new plantings off to the best start, and has been proven over hundreds of years, as old as tree's them self probably, but Im always open to new suggestions, only IF they have stood the test of time.
Take good care and Kindest Regards.
WeeNel.