nice! the snow is still on the ground up there?
FALL FOLIAGE AND BERRIES END OF SEASON PICS!! TAKE 2
I like those shrub combinations, Holly!
Ric, you're so right about the loss of habitat. There is little left by way of food and shelter for birds in most forests in our area, and many homeowners don't have understory or mid-story growth in their yards. I see so many houses around here with tiny little meatball shrubs and no trees: those are homes with almost no wildlife value.
There were 1-2 dozen berries on my Aronias yesterday but only a few today. The winterberries have been gone for weeks. I'm really hoping to have more berries next year.
Holly, I love that blue color. One thing missing in my garden is a blue conifer. Does anyone have any recommendations? I hear they're finicky about our heat and humidity.
Well, it's happened again, all of my crocus are up early. I hope the blooms hold off awhile longer so they don't get frozen when we drop down to the teens again in a couple of weeks.
Keeping my fingers crossed for you, ssg!
Did your crocus blooms get frost bitten last year? Usually bulbs seem to "know" what they're doing, even when we think they have leaves up much too early.
I put in a Norway Spruce last fall -- died immediately, so will look for replacement at Lowe's this spring, but it was not due to heat/humidity anyway! It wasn't as blue as a blue spruce but still a nice blue-toned green. And it was a columnar form! I didn't know norway spruce came in "skinny," but that's perfect for the corner of that front bed.
http://www.oregonpridenurseries.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/plants.plan
Junipers seem to do fine around here, and my MIL in NC has a Blue Atlas cedar that I hope is a dwarf form, although they won't have to contend with it when it's full grown (we hope they'll move up here before too long).
Jill, that link isn't working for me.
Last year the crocus blooms popped up between two very cold spells. I hope the same thing happens again this year!
From this morning's short walk. I have always love the flowing shape of the Hollywood Juniper. Not too sure how it will handle our snowy winters and maybe be tearfully telling you of broken limbs one of these years. But for now I am really enjoying this one, planted in the rock at the end of the Pfizer Juniper hedge.
They Trumpet Vine arbor always looks good no matter what the season is. Has a whole different look when snow covered or with ice dripping off of it but it sure is fun to see all the branching.
I also like the shape of that Juniper, and I love those huge boulders!
The Trumpet Vine looks like it's having a bad hair day; I couldn't help but smile when I saw it : - )
This message was edited Jan 20, 2015 6:33 PM
total agreement.
I even see two skinny 'people' with wild hair, in the twining branches like arms
It looks like a chia pet on steroids! Very pretty looking though. I'm imagining it dusted with light wet snow.
ssg, try this http://www.oregonpridenurseries.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/plants.plantDetail/plant_id/12/index.htm
or once you're on the site, go to "featured plants" by botanical name and look under "P"
Nice, Holly! How much pruning does it take to keep that trumpet vine from looking like Cousin It? I know I have to hack back my honeysuckles pretty hard to keep them in check... fortunately, they are tough and don't mind being hacked "whenever."
I don't cut back the top at all just the lower fringe so we can actually walk under it. I usually have a pretty good pile. Usually do it once or twice a year.
Looks like I may get a snow covered pic later today.
You have to be careful with trumpet vines though. They can be very invasive, they sprout from the roots like crazy and produce a lot of seed. I don't know for sure but suspect the birds for some of the seed spread. We also have to get under that big Norway spruce at least once a year and cut volunteers. This wasn't supposed to be a trumpet vine in the first place, we had a mail order package come 30 some years ago and the wisteria and trumpet vine got mixed up. Be careful where you put Chinese wisteria also, the runners from it can come up 20' away as well as shoot up under siding and pry it loose. It is beautiful but a real PITA plant.
I remember seeing that wisteria at your house and thought, yikes! That's some pretty crazy stuff there. That's why vines scare me, they are unpredictable and, most times, are hard core vigorous take over the world things. I grow zero vines in our yard but can appreciate ones grown in other yards.
Ric and Holly, I would love to have some trumpet vine volunteers! I could plant them in so many places in the forest, where the only plants they might smother are non-native.
Muddy, I would be glad to give you some rooted pants this spring but I really am not sure you want them in your forest. You should do some research on them first. Being happy with your Trumpet Vine is all about Location, Location, Location.
You know how trumpet vine climbs telephone poles? I once saw one on a telephone pole and the only ground was a small square cut for the pole. All around was sidewalk and multiple city traffic lanes on all sides. Blooming like crazy.
As far as Muddy's forest, well it's native and ore deserving of a hand up than Virginia creeper. IMHO
Yeah Virginia Creeper is the pits. Ugly looking for certain. At least trumpet vine would be pretty.
Hmm... I guess I'll think about it, Holly. I've seen what I think is a trumpet vine growing in a part-sun area in the part of the forest that Fairfax County owns, and it hasn't been invasive. I'll try to find it this spring, confirm its ID and, if it is a trumpet vine, perhaps find a similar location.
Your vine is the native one, isn't it?
Birds love Virginia Creeper berries so I would like to see more of that growing in the woods. I might try transplanting some of the ones growing on my fence or around shrubs, where I don't want them.
Trumpet vine prefers lots of sun, so a part-sun setting may provide a less aggressive setting. Still, beware.
Holly and Greenthumb, thanks for your advice; it's very helpful.
I'm leaning against planting Campsis radicans in the woods, in part due to its invasive habit, but more because it has limited wildlife value beyond being a nectar source for bees and hummingbirds. There are other plants that will support them as well as many other creatures.
Just came across a site called White Oak Nursery that offers seeds and seedlings of some of the native trees and plants we discuss. There are articles and sections on seed collecting, and best planting practices for forest and ecology restoration as well as inclusion in urban landscapes.
http://www.whiteoaknursery.biz/restore/index.shtml
Each page in the table in this section has information on collecting, cleaning and handling seed of a native plant from Oaks, Dogwoods and Viburnums to Bluebells, Columbine and Ginger. There is information on habitat, growth habits and how best to establish the plant in the wild.
I've copied the listing on ZigZag and Blue Stemmed Goldenrod because it says these woodland Goldenrods can compete with Garlic Mustard ((an invasive plant that offers no wildlife value and out competes many that do).
Solidago flexicalis and Solidago caesia:
"Ecology: The woodland goldenrods are very useful plants for restoring degraded and deer ravaged woodland as golden rod is highly deer resistant. Goldenrods self propagate both vegetatively from the stoloniferous roots and from seed. Most plant communities are composed of one or two dominant plant species. The goldenrods fill that ecological niche. They grow in great profusion, they stabilize the soil and cover any bare soil. They also provide important ground level cover for birds in the woodland under story. They provide an important source of nectar for insects when in flower as well as a being a host plant for many foliage feeding insects.
Goldenrod can be used to successfully compete with invasive woodland plants such as garlic mustard. Goldenrod can be established from seed while control is being implemented for garlic mustard. Goldenrod will gradually take the place of garlic mustard and effectively compete with it.
The Goldenrods are adaptable to nearly any soil type from dry to moist and from full shade to sun. Golden rod is especially useful for establishment in dry woodland understory where few other herbaceous plants will grow."
Great info about the goldenrod, coleup.
My beef with Virginia creeper is that there are so many miles of highway sound covered in the stuff around here, I can't imagine we 'need' any more of it.
Thanks, Coleup; that was an interesting article! Obviously I totally agree with his idea of sowing native seeds everywhere : - ) I was surprised he said the seeds should be planted in the ground, though; I thought almost all native seeds need light to germinate.
Sally, I don't see much Virginia Creeper growing around here other than along my fence...maybe it prefers Maryland !
This message was edited Jan 22, 2015 11:33 PM
haha Maryland creeper
Here are the instructions specifically for the woodland Goldenrods that I didn't include above:
"Seed collection: Seed matures in mid to late fall. The seed is very tiny, nearly the consistency of dust. Each seed is attached to silky down enabling easy wind dispersal. The seed matures in the order the flowers are produced from the bottom of the plant towards the top. Collect seed when most of the seed at the top of the stem has dried and begins to fluff.
Seed handling: To harvest, strip the seeds, along with the leaves, from the whole stem. Place seed in a paper bag to dry. Seed can be stored dry for several weeks if seed will be planted out in the fall. Cold/moist stratify seed if seed will be stored for spring planting. Large quantities of dry seed can be broadcast to establish goldenrod over large areas.
Germination requirements: Seed requires one to two months of cold moist stratification to germinate. Seed readily germinates the first spring if properly treated. For best results fall plant in flats or in the soil. Because the seed is so small sow seed on the surface of the soil. Do not cover the seed with soil or leaf litter. The seed germinates easily and the seedlings grow rather quickly. Sizable plants can be grown in a single season. A carpet of seedlings will quickly surround established plants and wind dispersed seed will start popping up in unexpected places. "
I italicized the how to plant this seed. To me, 'in the soil' means where the seed will germinate and grow and unless a planting depth is indicated that is on the surface. So, I have an important role to play as seed disperser of native plants of the ecosystems, communities and habitats so disrupted by human activity that natural recolonization is no longer sufficient.
Which leads in to Sally's 'beef' with Virginia/Maryland Creeper, that perhaps there is enough of it already, since it covers some of the sound wall barriers along some interstates around this area. What if those sound wall coverings were the last strongholds of Virginia Creeper in our area ? ( Most people eradicate it from their private yards, much of our county is now developed and what forested area i s left is fragmented at best.) Can birds find the kind of cover they need for nesting or berries for winter sustenance that Virginia Creeper has provided for centuries and how many birds can a couple miles of highway sound walls support? The sound barriers at the end of my road were first climbed by Chinese Wisteria which now covers over half of the 400 feet. Next to over grow was English Ivy covering about a third more, There is one Virginia Creeper vine that has only climbed up about half way to the top. Invasives 99, natives 1.
Not that I am advocating planting more Virginia Creeper per se, but I am looking at its ubiquitous presence as a kind of mirror that says to me , if there indeed is plenty of VC then has it become a monoculture or stand in for other plants that are no longer there or only barely available ? I want more diversity, not less, so VC will have a place or two or three in my yard as I hear and see the birds enjoy and it fills certain privacy and decorative concerns and I find it pretty easy to live with.
Well, anyhow I am enjoying reading through the White Oak Nursery site as it is helping me discern my part in the larger scheme of things.
Muddy, most of my resources say to surface sow Solidago, concurring with your point. However, there are some variations that support both ideas.
Ex. "How to Plant GOLDENROD Seeds. Sow seeds in cell packs or flats, press into soil and barely cover. Needs light to germinate."
thanks Holly, I do really like a little snow for the different scenery it makes. Ours has melted already.
Snow is great for the scenery for sure. I like it because I feel like it cleanses everything of the daily 'dirt' and creates a fresh coat of purity over all.
The trumpet vine's "hair" has become salt-and-pepper...looks good! It looks like you got the perfect snow; just enough for beautiful scenery and not the wet kind that'll break branches.
I surface sowed many of the seeds, but worked them into the soil a little. The soil in the forest is nothing like the hard clay in my yard; it's black and loose, so I'm sure the rain and snow will drive them a little deeper.
Isn't it nice when the builders take the topsoil and sell it off before leveling out your yard with nasty clay? At least that's how it is here. There is no topsoil in our yard, it's all clay and shale, except in my gardens of course :)
Oh, is THAT where it all went? To make matters worse, they left buried bricks.
I'm still finding buried bricks when I dig. And chunks of concrete.
Lol...Yup that's where it all went :)
Our house was built near the barn of the old farm. I'm just lucky that we aren't across the street and over a house. That's where the stone driveway pad was to the barn and their yard is like a solid rock.
You definitely have a micro-climate thing going on in your yard! Those sure are a sight for winter-weary eyes.
I saw an inch-plus of crocus foliage poking out of the ground today, but no buds.
Oh nice SSG!! Mine are coming up in my xeric garden where my micro climate is. I probably have a week or so left until I get a bloom though. Last year the first bloom was Feb 22.
