advice sought: moving a white daphne

I have never gardened before, so PLEASE HELP!!!

I think I must move my 4-year old white daphne: the tree providing shade was unexpectedly cut down by my apartment complex!!

I've read that it is a part sun plant (NOT total sun); it is persnickety and prone to just up and dying; it dislikes being moved. So I don't REALLY want to move it, but I think I have to: right???

There is plenty of room in my filtered sun / part sun side garden, so my questions (besides "Do I have to move it?") are:

WHEN?? (Now, even tho the tree-that-is-nol-longer was loosing its leaves and did not provide shade for winter. . spring, after the plant flowers.and before the new growth)

HOW?? (what is the root ball like?? shallow and out twice as far as the leaves OR very deep and straight down

Transplanting an established plant can cause a growth spurt. I would be hesitant to suggest transplanting it going into the cold season, as the growth could get killed by the frost.
There is something that you can do, though.
About once a month cut into the area where the roots are in such a way that over 5-6 months you have dug a trench all around the plant. This is in preparation for transplanting. Where you trench you are cutting off some roots, and the plant can regrow some roots before you cut more. Since you are cutting less that 1/4 of them at any one time there is plenty to support the plant.
Leave the trench open, or fill it with coarse leaves, not fine material of any sort.
How far from the plant: This does depend on the roots. Many people surface water. They sprinkle little bits of water on the surface, not understanding how to deep water a plant. The plant then grows surface roots, where the water is. If this has been its treatment, then you will probably cut a larger circle around the plant, but maybe only 6-8" deep.
If the plant has been deep soaked, slow watered so the water seeps in deep, then the roots will have grown deeper but not have spread quite so far from the plant. You will probably dig the trench closer to the plant, but go down a foot deep.
In the spring you can then dig under the plant (this is the hard part) and transplant it. It will have grown a lot of fine roots closer to the plant so be very careful with the root ball.

Wish you were able to tell what Daphne you have, I assume it's a shrub rather than a small rockery type.
Daphne's like part shade or full sun BUT I'm not too sure about your zone to be honest.
IF you have to uplift the shrub this year, I would do it NOW while the soil temp is still warmish, IF not, you will have to leave it in situation until next year around April.
Another factor to remember, IF your Daphne is a winter / early spring flowering type, then you will have to wait till after it has finished it bloom season. Do remember not to plant the shrubs any deeper than the soil level they are in at present, to do so you will cause the stem / trunk to rot, maybe not evident for a while but, it can become a problem.
Make the new hole larger and wider so you can add nice enriched soil around the rootball to give the plant a chance to settle into it's new environment.
How large the rootball will be I'm afraid that's anyone's guess as it will depend on how much and how quick it began to grow when first planted.
When you decide to move the plant, start by scraping away some of the soil around the roots about a foot wider than the trunk. IF you find roots, than you need to go wider.
IF I ever have to move established shrubs, I like to spade cut around the root after checking I'm far enough away from cutting the roots too close to the trunk, then I loosen the root ball as much as possible giving a space around the ball, then I pour water into the hole and absolutely soak the roots under the soil allowing the roots to take up as much water as possible (this makes the rootball a lot heavier) then lay an old sheet or cloth /sack beside the plant and gently try lift the rootball onto the cloth, wrap the cloth around the rootball and either lift the plantand cloth onto a barrow or slowly drag the plant to it's new site. I find a plank of wood cut to size is better at protecting the roots IF the plant is heavy. it causes less damage.
set the plant into it's new site, backfill the soil around the roots as you go and gently use the toe of your shoes /boots to gently press down the soil to remove any air pockets. I always stick an empty clear plastic juice bottle into the soil when filling in the hole, then when you want to water the plant, you just fill the bottle up a couple of times and this gets the water down to the roots where it's most needed.
Hope this helps you out a bit and all goea well for your plant move.
Kindest Regards.
WeeNel.

Oh, thanks for replying WeeNei! I tried to find you to Dmail you, as you posted about having successfully moving the same type plant (Daphne odora aureomarginata).

Unfortunately, waiting is not an option, since after only two days of full sun its leaves are curling up.

It is about 4 foot high and 4 foot wide (after 5 summers), is covered with small buds already and flowers profusely (it's right by my front door, so I get to enjoy it's fragrance!) about March. The site I'll move it to gets filtered sun (like where its at USED to get), but its round the side of my apartment.


It's just now getting cooler (although the first average day of frost is Oct 11), with most days in the high 60's.

OK Betnc, IF you have to go ahead right now, and no other options are available then get the prep done done as I gave above, it would be best IF you prep the new soil and hole first so that as soon as you lift the plant out from the place it sit's now, this prep with cause much less shock to the plant.

Do expect the plant to go into some form of shock, maybe drop the flowering buds and NOT make new ones this year, however, it will suffer some shock, what you are trying to do is cause as little stress to the plant as possible. Try to disturb the root -ball as little as possible and dont worry IF you remove way to much soil around the roots, this prevents cold air getting to any bare roots, another reason I like to wrap sacking or old sheet, even plastic around the roots while you move and replant the root-ball.
The type you have is more hardier and can take slightly cooler winter temps than some others, I love the perfume the flowers throw out and it's treat when not much else is happening in the garden, it's good to plant them close to the house/door where you get full smelling power LOL.

Dont know how you never managed to get hold of me by using Dmail as I have loads of nice conversations with others and a few over many years.
Anyway get back to us IF your still stuck and will try give you more thoughts or help your confidence, it's a worry for even the most proficient gardeners when having to move a cherished plant at what might be the wrong timing BUT, most times with watering, feeding and care, the plants do recover BUT dont expect instant recovery, it will be good IF you dont see any changes in the first few weeks, after that time it could be the plant is going to be OK.
Good luck. and Kindest Regards.
WeeNel.

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm sure I'll have lots more questions before all my shade plants are moved out of the harsh total sun. My gardening crew was supposed to come today to move all of them, but now I have some extra time - to stress!!

In addition to my cherished daphne, I have 9 hellebores (1 and 2-year-old lenten roses) and a 1 year-old Lady Ghost Fern. (But I worry most about disturbing the daphne: I've been afraid to do more than just look at it and enjoy the fragrance!)

All are VERY well hydrated (it rained almost constantly for three days, I watered the daphne the fourth day for the scheduled move today / the next day) and I pinned a tablecloth over the daphne . . . .

You have done all the right things re the plants until the move, well done, no point stressing as IF the plants are only in this situation for a short while, a few weeks most, there is still time for them to recover, slowly, but they will with proper treatment.
Good luck. WeeNel.