I just planted a Chinese Pistache and have a dumb question. It came taped to a 5.5ft stake. How long should I leave them taped together? The tree is a bit spindly and 6ft... Thanks!
Tree Stake - When to remove
When it can stand on its own. Loosen the ties to test the rigidity of the trunk and go from there. The thing you don't want to happen is to let it go too long so that the ties/tape get embedded in the bark.
Thanks!
The tight stake is one the grower uses to make the trunk grow straight.
I would use a slightly different staking method in the garden to allow the tree to move a bit in the wind, but be protected from strong winds.
Use 2 stakes, one on each side of the tree, about a foot or more away from the trunk. Put the stakes in securely, to undisturbed soil.
Use a soft tie material that will not scar the bark. Tie the tree up where it will be able to flex some in gentle winds.
Read this guide on staking. I typically use 3 stakes for most trees but have used 2 if the tree is small.
http://www.shadetrees.com/PlantingTrees
If the wood is hard then you probably won't be able to straighten it (without causing more injury than the bend it already has) but if it has any flexibility then you could tie ropes below and above the bend and exert enough force/pressure to help bend it back some. You'd probably still have a bend where it is but you may be able to get the top to grow back to vertical. If it is shaded on one side more than the other then I doubt you will have much luck even if it straightened out for a few years. A tree or shrub is going to lean/bend to get as much sun as possible.
It's got a bit of flex to it, but not sure if can bend it back safely. Interestingly, the very top growth is growing straight. Not sure if that grew since last Thursday when i planted the tree or...
The tree is getting full sun in the morning and throughout most of the evening. I think I planted the bend away from the sun...
By the time that tree develops 6-8" in trunk diameter, you won't even remember why you worried about it. Leave it alone, and concentrate on producing good branching structure as the tree settles into its new home and starts growing like mad.
If I were to plant that same tree here in UK, I would have had to put in a really good stout stake to offer FULL support to the SAPLING, BUT that's because I get storms blow up at any time, young tree's wont stand a chance here without that support AND remember, your tree came with a support, NOT to make it look good, but because the wood is still immature and unable to hold the top growth once it is in full leaf.
So looking at your tree, it is under the shade of other larger tree's therefore maybe it is growing slightly off / bent, because it's trying to get light and IF leaning towards the more open area of the canopy is causing the tree to bend towards light, that's what tree's do, some never make it as it all depends on the neighbouring trees, the faster growing the top canopy tree's have will determine how well your chosen tree will grow. Nature has it so plant, either Animal, Veg or Mineral, the fittest or strongest will always survive and sometimes the weaker ones fall by the wayside.
If you don't get windy weather in your area, then probably the tree will be OK, but from my many years experience, your lovely tree is still way to immature to be without a support, IF you don't like the thought of a tall stake all the way up the tree trunk, you can always hammer a stout stake into the ground at an angle, then tie the base of the trunk to this, it allows the tree to sway as normal when it gets blown with the wind, BUT the bottom area where it can rock about while still not found deeper roots, the low stakes mean the root area cant move, last thing you want is the roots to be lifted out the soil IF strong winds arrive.
Good care for tree's is every spring, as the sap begins to rise, with all tree's, loosen the ties and check there are no indents into the bark indicating the ties are too tight and the tree trunk unable expanded at the tie. Also when you buy the tree ties, make sure there is a padding that goes around the trunk to prevent cuts or scars get to the bark where the tie is, as any damage can allow disease to enter the wood and years later can be a bigger problem.
I also place an clear empty juice container into the planting hole of trees, cut the bottom off and remove the lid / cap from the bottom, leave about 2-3 inches above the soil, then when you need to water, fill the plastic container up a couple of times and this way you know the roots are getting soaked instead of the water normally given evaporate, or run off the top spil after a while there is a crust forms onto this area.
Good luck, have many years of pleasure with your wooded area, tree's in my opinion are the back bone of a garden but then maybe I'm biased LOL I have a huge wood area.
Kindest Regards. WeeNel.
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