Help? Trying to Create Shade in my Sunny Massachusetts Yard

We have a bit of a dilemma here, as my fiance and I are both being very picky about what trees we want to plant in our backyard, and have both been researching for months. We have a 6 ft privacy fence, but our lot is up on a hill, so the privacy fence does not actually give much privacy. We can still see the windows of neighboring houses while we sit on our ground-level patio. Walking around in the backyard, no privacy at all. Neighbors can see right into the yard. We also have absolutely no trees in our backyard :( So the entire yard is in full sun basically all day from morning til evening. During the hot, humid, sunny days of summer, this is not very pleasant. We would like to have a bit of shade, and some privacy from the neighbors. Although we are lucky to have very nice neighbors, still, it would of course be nice to have some privacy. One half of the yard gets some shade, but only after about 6 PM, due to some very tall trees in the next yard over.

Part of our dilemma is that we can't plant trees that will get super tall, because we have solar panels on the roof of our one-story house, which need sunlight as much as possible to generate electricity. So we prefer to plant trees that will only get to be about 25 feet tall at maturity.

My fiance and I both agree on the height, no more than 25 feet tall. We also both agree that we don't want fruit trees, because we don't want fruit falling off the tree onto the lawn, adding to lawn maintenance and worrying our dog will get a hold of some bad fruit or pits which are toxic to dogs. We both agree that we need to make sure we don't plant any trees that are toxic to dogs. That is extremely important.

My fiance does not want trees that flower, because he doesn't want flower petals falling all over the lawn. I, on the other hand, don't mind flowering trees, and I actually think flower petals falling onto the lawn would be pretty. This, we disagree on.

I don't want any trees that have red flowers or that turn red in the fall. I don't mind seeing red trees out in the woods, but I don't want them in my yard. I just personally don't like the color red. We really like trees that turn yellow or orange in the fall.

We want to pick out 3 different types of trees. One for the far back corner, to block the view of a neighbor's house, which can be the tallest (25 feet) because that is the lowest corner of the yard. Something we can put a couple of chairs and a dog house under. One for the middle back to block the view of a neighbor's house, which can be a bit shorter but no less than 12 feet tall). For those first two, the wider the spread, the better. And one for the side of the yard which we would like to plant in a row along the fence to block the view of a two-story neighboring home with an above-ground swimming pool that has no privacy and we don't want to see it. For the row of trees, we would like them to be on the taller side (20-25 feet), and can have a narrower spread, since they will be in a row, but my fiance does not want big puffy evergreens with foliage low to the ground, which I agree with because those kinds of trees also harbor more ticks, and we don't want our dog to be exposed to more ticks in our backyard.

Every time we think we have agreed on some trees to plant, one of us discovers something about it in our research that makes us change our minds.

Right now, we think we have agreed on a Wax Myrtle tree for one of the trees we want to plant. The one in the middle back of the yard. I have read that this tree is an evergreen, but I'm not sure if it stays evergreen in our zone, which is Zone 7a. We are very close to zone 6b, but are considered zone 7a. The Wax Myrtle can grow in zone 7-11, but does anyone know how tall they get in southeastern Massachusetts? I have read they are 15-20 feet at maturity, but I'm guessing that can vary depending on the zone? Especially considering they are more common in the South, I'm a bit concerned about this one. Although if it IS evergreen and grows to 15-20 feet, that would be perfect because it would give us privacy in the winter, too.

Another one I have my eye on is for the far back corner of the yard, and that is the Muskogee Crape Myrtle. Yes, I realize these are flowering trees, but I might be able to convince my loving fiance ;) I think they are gorgeous in purple, and they grow in zones 7-11 and up to 25-30 feet at maturity, with a wide spread as well. This would be perfect for that far back corner. I also love that they turn a beautiful bright orange in the fall. Does anyone on this forum have this in their yard in Massachusetts? Can you tell me how tall it is at maturity in this area?

As for the row trees along the side of the yard, neither of us are sure what we want to plant over there. Suggestions are welcomed!!!

The photos were taken at about 6 PM. As you can see only half of the yard is in the shade from a neighbor's trees. Other than that, the entire yard is in the sun basically all day on sunny days.

Thanks everybody!

This is NOT the right time to be planting tree's as you rightly say, the weather is hot, young tree's planted at this time of year will be dead by the time August arrives.

You need to take into account, unless you have very deep pockets full of dollars, then the size of tree's your hoping for will be way beyond your reach and large machinery required to set them in place.
Tree's to reach the height / spread your asking for will take many years to reach that stage and as with all gardeners, patience is required.
I have gardened for many years and know when tree's are required to help with privacy or shade, even both together, you also need to look at some form of barrier /temporary framework to help offer you the privacy you need.

Maybe look at some form of wooden gazebo type framework around the patio or seating area, you can make very nice tidy looking screens by using fabrics hooked onto tall flag poles or metal fixtures so the fabric is stretched overhead and offers temp shade as well as some privacy.

I don't feel it's right for me to offer tree's by name as you both still feel unsure and as you will have much more time before your ready to get the tree's AND time to prepare the ground to plant the tree's then you have many more months to think exactly what you want, tree's as you know take about 10 years before they look anything like the shape and form you hope they will be, there after they grow to full maturity and normally reach their full height and spread.
Another thing you need to take into account is, the root spread, IF the tree is said to spread say 12 feet, be sure the roots will spread out that same distance as the tree matures which is a mistake most people forget to think about when selecting tree's, then after 10 - 15 years, they wonder why there is a problem with their foundations or drainage due to the tree roots searching for moisture.
NOT all tree's as aggressive by the way, I am pointing out a problem you may face IF you don't research the root spread of each tree you purchase.
My knowledge and experience has proved that by starting a young sapling about 2-3 years old will give a far better healthier tree that quickly adapts into it's new environment,

The best time to plant tree's is end of summer when the heat has dropped from the high temps, the soil is still warm enough but the intense heats will not be a problem, IF you cant
Plant then, wait till early spring well before the hot weather starts to take hold again.
Prepare the soil well with plenty humus like horse manure home made compost or store purchased ready mixed compost, make sure you do a soil test (buy a test kit for a couple of dollars) you need to know you have the right type of soil (soil PH) for whatever type of tree you buy, the test will help you alter the PH by adding Lime, Peat or whatever is required to grow your tree's. they DIE if planted in the wrong PH. or too much caly or not enough humus.

The safest way to give new tree's a best start is by adding as much humus as possible to the planting hole and mix it into the soil, cut the bottom off an empty clear plastic juice container, remove the cap / lid, as you backfill the planting hole and you have added the tree supports, place the plastic container into the hole, back fill around it, leave 2 inch of plastic above ground, fill us the container several limes with hose pipe and this will get water way down to the roots where it's really needed.
Make sure you only plant the tree's to the same depth as it was growing in the pot or bare roots, there will be a mark on the trunk where the soil was.

Hope all this helps toy out and you relax a bit while selecting the tree's you both really want, remember tree's are for life NOT just till you get fed up after a few years of clearing up cones, petals, fruit or whatever, these can be gathered by mowers or blowers very easy IF done before they start to rot.
Kindest Regards.
WeeNel.

Thanks for your response, WeeNel!

I knew some of that info already, except I did not know it was that important it was to do a soil test! I will definitely pick one of those up at the store. I wouldn't want to spend all that money on trees that don't thrive in my soil type! Thanks for the tip!

I really like your idea about a gazebo structure over the patio to add some privacy while we wait for our trees to grow, plus it would look nice anyway, even after the trees have matured. I'm just not sure I'd want to block our view of our yard just to have privacy on the patio. We are also planning on building a low to the ground wooden deck over that concrete slab as our next project (after the kitchen reno is done). So, a gazebo over that would look fantastic, but I'm not sure how I would go about making it private without blocking our own view of the yard.

I also like your idea about the plastic bottle underground to water into so that the roots get more of the water. I might try that when we plant our trees in the beginning of fall this year (hopefully, if we can make up our minds by then).

We would like to get trees that are already at least 5 feet tall. We might be willing to spend a little more for an even taller tree if it's really nice looking because we just want privacy already. This has been a long time coming. We have been researching trees for about a year and a half now, we have just not been able to make up our minds, because it is such a long term thing and I hate the idea of cutting down a tree later, just because we made the wrong decision on the trees we chose! Just to have to start all over again... That is why we want to make sure we pick the right ones that suit our needs and will thrive in our yard.

If you would like to name some trees you think would suit our needs, it would be welcomed! I'm open to suggestions that we can do more research on and decide if it's right for us.

I spoke with my fiance about the Muskogee Crape Myrtle, and he agreed to it after a bit of persuasion. I attached a photo of one so you can get an idea of what I like, and let me know if you have any better suggestions.

I also attached a photo of the Wax Myrtle. My fiance keeps going back and forth on this one because he is afraid it's going to look too much like a shrub (same with the Muskogee Crape Myrtle), and he likes trees that have just one main trunk. But at the same time, the Wax Myrtle tree was his idea and he seemed pretty sure about it. And we both know, they can be trimmed to look more like trees.

We are very indecisive people, as you can probably tell. LOL

Anyway, if you have any ideas for better trees or for the row trees we have no contenders for, please let me know!

We are also thinking about planting Irish Moss around the bases of the trees instead of mulch (once the tree is established in its new environment, probably the following Spring). We can't use mulch because our dog would chew on it. What are your thoughts on using Irish Moss for that purpose?

Thanks again!

Most plants have flowers. Some are small enough to sink through the grass and cause no problems. Flowers are usually followed by fruit, but some plants are sterile hybrids that rarely set fruit. Many plants have some sort of very small berry, or a dried seed pod. These are least messy. Many of these are plants that will grow into large shrubs (branches and leaves to the ground, multiple trunks) or can be trained as trees. Buy one that has already had the early training done, then just follow what they have started.

Small trees:

Ilex is the genus of Holly. There are several large shrubs that can be trained as trees. Some have the traditional spiky leaves, but others have fewer or no spikes. Small white flowers will disappear when they fall, not litter the lawn. Red fruit grows only on the female plants, so get a male. You will have to find out what are available in your area, growth habit etc.

A couple of species of Viburnum can be trained as small trees. Like holly, you will have to do some research. Most have small flowers in showy clusters, followed by small fruit. Disappears when it falls into the lawn.

Cercis canadensis is deciduous, but makes a nice screen when it is in leaf. There are several varieties. Small flowers, followed by dry seed pods. Fall color.

Cornus is the genus of dogwoods. Most have showy flowers, followed by fruit. Fall color.

Hamamelis is Witch Hazel.

Salix is Willow, and I am thinking of the group with the common name 'Pussy Willow'. Soft, furry flowers, dry fruit. Most have yellow fall color.

Tillia cordata 'Summer Sprite'. Other varieties are larger. Flowers have a delightful fragrance.

There are many varieties of deciduous shade trees that have insignificant flowers, followed by dry fruit. As above, you will have to research which species and variety might work for you. Mostly you are looking for the smallest, dwarf types. A weeping variety can usually be trained into the size you want (under 20'), but will not spread very wide. You might plant a group of 3-5 along the fence where you need something wider. Fall color varies.
Maple (Acer)
Birch (Betula)
Beech (Fagus)

For the side yard where you want a narrower screen:
Carpinus betulus
and look into more large growing shrubs that can be started as trees (single trunk) then hedged.
What varieties of Rhamnus are available to you? Many are large shrubs that are easy to prune, shape. Might not make a perfect "tree" but should make an acceptable screen where something narrower is needed.
If Osmanthus grows in your area there are several large shrubs.
Syringa, Lilac is another large group of many varieties and hybrids, and a few species. Mostly bred for flowers, so it might take a little more convincing, but they could make a good screen.

My choice would be to bring in some soil and compost to build a small berm about 3 feet away from the fence in one area (just to try it out). It's easier to get some height when you start a little higher. For year-round screening there is nothing like a conifer. Look for some fastigiate shapes or some column-shaped weeping varieties and you won't be dealing with an excessive spread. Picea Abies or Norway Spruce comes in many shapes and colorations, so you will find something to please. I'm glad you didn't immediately plant a row of arbor vitae. There are so many interesting things you can do. There are many dwarf or intermediate sized cultivars of many conifers that might otherwise grow taller than you desire. You can also mix in some interesting deciduous trees that don't have red fall color such as cornus mas, spike winterhazel, tree viburnums or a dwarf magnolia.

We are too far north of you to know anything about wax myrtle or most crape myrtles. It may be a little sunny and usually dry for planting now, but if you are doing it yourselves, acquiring and keeping the containers in enough shade until the ground is prepared has always worked for me as long as I am diligent about watering them.

Do your neighbors have crepe myrtles? I wouldn't think they would do well that far north but if they do, they do drop lots of seed and can have black sooty mold if they get an aphid infestation (which creates the honeydew that the black mold lives on). Treat the aphids before the mold comes on and you will be fine. They also shed bark which is part of their appeal but some folks might not like the looks of loose bark. Do be aware that sudden plunges in temps can kill crepe myrtles to the ground (it happened to most of Atlanta two winters many years ago) but the roots are usually tough enough to send up new shoots when it gets warm enough.

You'd probably need lots of plugs of Irish moss to fill in the area - how would you keep your dog out of that area while it is getting its roots down?

Gazebo's are normally open structures, only solid part is the roof that gives shelter but the sides are open AND you can grow climbers up the stout wood that supports the roof. The only part that would block out the neighbours view of your seating area will be the roof, as for blocking out your own view, unless you are looking upwards, there would be no part of a gazebo that you cant see through.

If I were you, I would do a walk around your neighbourhood, take a camera and any tree's you like the look of, take a picture, then also go to book store or local library and pick up books on tree's that grow in your zone, put that together and you should get most tree's that do well in your area, their mature height, foliage shape/texture / colour and fruit or flowers.
The book should also tell you hoe and where, when to plant the tree and type of soil required, Most will give the spread measurements as a rough guide, soil light, water shade, all make for different end results with tree's.

never plant a tree too big, 5 years old would be a limit I'd stick to, the larger the tree, the larger the root area = more water required, bigger supports, a lot of loss MAYBE to foliage if in leaf, all tree's take a good season to get their roots to start spread out and down IF the tree you select grows roots downwards, some are root spreaders so all this info should be considered too. IF you decide on buying a large tree, make sure you know how to plant that size of tree or you could wake up on morning and find it laying on the lawn as it toppled over because it's top heavy, Maybe you could get the tree suppliers help you plant the selected trees and give the proper supports needed.

Silver Birch - Betula Pendula. this tree is fast growing, mostly grown for it's spread and it's
nice white bark that begins red when young and as it matures
it begins to go white, as it matures the bark shines in sunlight.
the foliage turns yellow, likes an open aspect but generally easy
to grow.

Western Hemlock - Tsuga Canadensis. This is a conical with drooping branches that that turn
upwards as it matures, is a tall quick maturing tree
that looks quite stately if grown on it's own, looking
Proud, check soil conditions as it might like an acidic
Soil ?????

Beeches,Fagus Sylvatica, there are several nice looking tree's, all quite fast
fast growing and in different shapes.

Copper beech As it says on the tin, it is a full wide shape, as it said
in the name, copper coloured foliage, really nice
when planted beside bright green and different
shaped foliage and textures.
Don't like wet or saturated soil so wont grow in low
dips that get filled with water.

Weeping Beech, Again as the label states, very attractive but allow
plenty room as the weeping branches soon make a
very full and wide tree,
Same soil conditions as the other beeches.

Sweatgum - Liquid Amber- styraciflua, One of my most favourite trees, the Autumn leaf
colour brings my garden to life in dark wet days.
I find it quite breath taking.

Tulip Tree Liriodendron - tulipifera. This is a beautiful tree, takes about 15 years bef
before the tulip yellow flowers begin to appear.
The leaf shape is wonderful, like a saddle shape.
this also turns yellow in autumn, but well worth
this show on dull dark winter days.

All these trees may have either flowers or berries / fruits, I really don't know any trees that wont have a means of pollination / reproduction, without any of those, we would have a treeless world,
I think you should both try agree that you cant have a tree that will grow exactly up and out to cover the size of area you need BUT try settle what compromises you could make to satisfy your needs, and do always remember, does your neighbours your trying to block out of your view, might object most strongly to the size of trees your thinking about, your choice of tree might suck all the moisture from their ground, there might be a rule as to how tall any tree or structures can be in the neighbourhood, will roots ruin their flower beds as roots do travel, have they any drains to consider and many other problems that could show up.
I'm not saying don't go ahead, I'm trying to point out a few problems you might later regret not considering, do you have a local community officer to give you guidance on this matter.
Always remember that tree's are tree's. but some are way far too big or root damaging deeming them unsuitable for the garden setting by law. others are considered a menace when mature and you end up with huge costs to have them removed.
I love tree's and hope you guy's can find what your needing and the leek you want, I'm coastal and am surrounded by woodlands, but along with my love of tree's comes a huge responsibility both for the trees we plant and enjoy, and others who have to watch them block out there light, ruin there garden or drop there leaf litter all over their plot, it's a balancing act really and I know there is a few trees out there you can have but maybe you also have to review your own wish list of wants, likes, don't wants and general vision for ALL concerned as trees are very expensive, like puppies, they are for life not just for Christmas, and also remember, half the joy of tree's is watching them settle into your environment and grow with you and your family too.

Hope this helps you a little bit but do remember, early spring - late summer is the best time for tree planting due to soil temp and hot weather, this gives time to find your selected tree's, amend the soil for planting and get the area ready fir the tree's to give them a great start.
Don't plant too close to the boundary fences or you wont give them room to grow, and the fence will stop the air flowing around the trunks, you still require room for painting or fixing the fence.
Hope you find your dream tree's and all goes well.
Best of luck and kindest Regards.
WeeNel.

I agree on tree/shrub size. You can pay more for an older tree for instant impact but you would probably have a lot better luck with a small plant to begin with - they adapt quicker and seem to grow quicker often catching up with the more expensive bigger plant in a few years. A one gallon pot versus a three gallon pot is usually one year in growth (for comparison).

I think WeeNel has a good idea on seeing what plants you like in the neighborhood as well and then beyond the neighborhood. What does good in your neck of the woods should work well for you too.

I think WeeNel meant Sweet Gum instead of Sweat Gum. Personally I've removed all of ours on the property due to the gum balls alone (I can enjoy the neighbor's sweet gums for color). I don't mind the few poplars we have as much but they are very, very tall. Hemlocks are very long lived (hundreds of years) and can become a very large tree as well but that is another matter.

I am taking out many of my Canadian hemlocks. Massachusetts has been invaded by woolly adelgids, and once a tree is mature, it is very difficult to use enough pesticide to rid the tree of it. Judging from the size of your property, it would also be a rather large tree for the area. I am keeping a lovely Sargeant Weeping hemlock which because of its slow growth seems to be easier to preserve with drenches and spraying. Supposedly 'Gentch White' is a hemlock that the little pests avoid. It grows to about 4 feet by four feet tall in about 10 years and has white tips.

You are lucky to be within driving distance of the Arnold Arboretum in Jamaica Plain, MA. I predict that in one trip there you will find trees and shrubs to completely love. In the end, our selections are affected by what stirs the emotions. I love conifers, magnolias (both deciduous and evergreen) , dogwoods, redbuds, holly, and fill-in with what will attract hummingbirds and butterflies. And this year I am working on a landscape with a 'Gingerbread' maple which is a slightly faster growing hybrid of acer griseum, and planting near it with red contorted hazel 'Red Dragon,' ninebark 'summer wine' and a small row of dwarf cherries, 'Hally Joivette' (Sp?) Filling in with spreading conifers and hosta and ferns and ground covers. I have learned what colors I want to accentuate over the years, and this area on a hill progresses from yellow and green plants to red/green tinged to blue spruces way in the background. The flowering cherries ought to frame a circular area where we have the firepit and they are rather lacy and fine. Thinking about colors and how to create a sense of depth is fun. Also, consider varying the texture of the leaf. If an area gets too bland at my house, I move in a pot of Ashii magnolia, elephant ears or canna, or a willow with a very fine leaf. Pots are great because you can move them and change your mind.

If it's not clear yet what stirs your emotions, looking at lots of public and private gardens ought to help.