Hi everyone,
I'm pretty certain this is a Dieffenbachia, but I'm not sure which type.
I'd like to keep this plant tidy and compact like it is now and try to get it to become more full and bushy rather than long and spindly, which I've seen happen to this kind.
What's the best way to do this?
I know sometimes you are supposed to pinch off new growth on some plants to force them to become bushy, but I have no idea which plants that applies to, or exactly where/how to do it.
What size pot should be used to achieve the busy style? Is it better to keep it pot-bound?
Growing a Bushy Dieffenbachia
dezzo--
I see no one has answered your question. Neither will I--really...
I am just going to say what I think about your quest...
Your little Dieffenbachia looks very healthy--and also on its way to being
a full plant. Just let it do its thing.
You cannot create a "bushy" plant from one that does not grow "bushy".
In the stores, these can appear to be "bushy"--but that is because they have
many starter plants in there.
Also--there are many varieties of Dieffenbachia--and yours looks more like
the one that fill grow tall and have big leaves and, basically, one sturdy stem.
There is nowhere you can pinch a Dieffenbachia. Their new growth radiates
from way down at the base--where the new leaves come from.
Just let it grow--take good care of it--feed it now and then--and that is all you can do.
In time--as it makes more and more new leaves--it may become more "bushy" looking...
BTW--do not hurry to transplant this plant. I think it likes to be pot-bound.
Also--the Dieffenbachia is a poisonous plant--especially the sap of it.
It even has a pungent odor if you ever get it on your hands..Do you have any pets?
Small children?
Here is a link that covers that.
http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002866.htm
Gita
There is no such thing as a plant that likes to be potbound. What happens is that the roots of so many plants can rot easily in copious amounts of airless potting soil, so using a tiny pot that quickly fills with roots, allowing more oxygen to reach the roots, and can seem like the only way to keep it alive. If the soil is more chunky, airy, roots won't rot in any size pot, making pot size irrelevant. Roots need oxygen and moisture at the same time to function (not just moisture.)
The loss of the older, lower leaves is what leaves Diefs looking the way you describe. The above advice is good, to keep your plant as healthy as possible so it retains its' leaves as long as possible. It looks like several individuals in that pot. When one gets too tall, you can chop it off and stick it back in the pot (or start a new pot.) I've rarely seen an older, great looking Dief that was actually several plants, though they may just be different types, and your opinion might not match mine. The really great ones (IMVHO) are usually individually planted.
Chopping it back will encourage new shoots and like Purple said you can root the top. Often when it becomes ugly, gangly, or hits the ceiling is when you need to prune it back hard. A bigger pot looks in order very soon to allow all the smaller plants to grow. Whether grouped or grown alone is all subjective to the owner/viewer.
Here is the biggest one I think I've ever seen when we visited our daughter in Okinawa a couple of years ago. This is located at Okinawa's Botanical Gardens. My 8 year old granddaughter in front of it showing its massive trunk and very tall height.
There is no such thing as a plant that likes to be potbound. What happens is that the roots of so many plants can rot easily in copious amounts of airless potting soil, so using a tiny pot that quickly fills with roots, allowing more oxygen to reach the roots, and can seem like the only way to keep it alive. If the soil is more chunky, airy, roots won't rot in any size pot, making pot size irrelevant. Roots need oxygen and moisture at the same time to function (not just moisture.)
OK! I will use a different term than "rootbound"---how about "tight in their pots"?
Roots can rot in poorly draining, dense soil no matter how big or small the pot is.
That has to do with poor watering techniques, poor soil and not adequate drainage-
or no drainage at all. If your plants are starving for Oxygen and are dying in "copious
amounts of airless soil---you need to re-pot them in a good Potting Mix.
If the soil is loose and "chunky" (your term) and well draining--many plants happily
exist in "tight-in-their-pots" conditions. Some examples:
Peace Lily
African Violets (sometimes these don't bloom till they get root-bound)
Streptocarpus--same as above...
Pony Tail Palms
Aloes
Palms
Bird of Paradise
Amaryllis
Holiday Cactus
and on and on....lots of them are happy the way just the way they are...
The picture above looks like a newly purchased plant to me. The darker leaves
at the base seem to be just new leaves--they will acquire their patterned look as they mature.
My suggestion to not re-pot it stands--newly purchased plants should be left as is
for about 3 months and not re-potted right away. That is a common mistake people make.
One stressor on the plant at a time is good policy. Re-potting is a stressor.
Gita
This message was edited Feb 17, 2014 1:12 PM
hcmc---
That tall plant does not look like a Dieffenbachia to me....
I may be wrong--as it was in another Country.
It looks more like a Ginger or a banana plant...
or some kind of a Palm.
G.
Hey Gita,
Not a palm (most palms I know have woody trunks and frond like leaves but I am open to new things). Not a banana since bananas don't have those short internodes (again I am open for new plants). Ginger? That would be a huge ginger. Unless you are thinking of Heliconia but again they don't have short internodes.
Anyway I had to go back to the original picture, blow it up to full resolution and lo and behold there was a sign in the pot (saved the day).
Here it is zoomed in and cropped. I would send the picture of it by itself but then I must've moved since it has a slight blur in it.
Also I kind of agree on not potting up right away but after years of experience, you will find some pots that have too much peat in them and that it is best to change them out right away. I've lost so many plants this way by waiting. You learn what works for you and what doesn't. You also learn that some vendors use a potting mix not to your liking - the plant is fine and I suppose they know how to water using the mix they grow in but often I over water and the next thing I know I have a sick and dying plant. UGH!
Well--I'll be darned!
Must be a kind I have never seen. BTW--your G-daughter is adorable!
Thanks for your comments supporting at least some of my thoughts.
Gita
Don't feel bad Gita. When I saw it in person I was wondering what it was too until I saw the sign. I wished I had taken more pictures of it but there was so much to see. They also had the aquarium (world class and inspired The Georgia Aquarium I was told) as part of the entire package.
That was our youngest grandchild and she kept us entertained while her older brother and sister were often asleep until noon when we were there.
Here are a few scenes around that fabulous place.
Same granddaughter in from a topiary shark or other large fish, observation tower we went up, one of the scenes from the tower, inside the tower was kind of neat with the lights, another greenhouse from the tower.
Gita, yes I think we are saying the same thing, just in a different way. A bonsai tree would be a blatant example that it is possible to generally maintain a plant in a pot size that doesn't increase. Roots are periodically pruned, and to account for this lack of increased root mass, the above-ground parts must be maintained with pruning so there is balance, a healthy plant. Flipping the coin, it would never be possible to grow a full-size, mature pecan tree in less than the amount of soil that the root mass needed to support such a large entity would require. Avoidance of root rot is not inherently connected to pot size, or amount/proliferation of roots in a pot, though can seem to be when the soil does not allow roots to function in it. A soil in which roots can function well is necessary to have a great plant of any type in any pot size. Couldn't agree more!
If one wants a plant to increase in size, (which is certainly not necessary, a personal decision for every person for every plant,) it's necessary for it to be able to grow more roots. When roots run out of space to increase (thus enabling increase in the mass of above-ground parts it can support,) one (or combo) of several things can happen. Stagnation of growth overall. The foliage is compromised in appearance. Older foliage is discarded prematurely. And the theory that as a response to impending death, some plants will finally then produce an elusive flower in attempt to reproduce before perishing (which I've never heard applied to Dief, so a moot point regarding the plant being discussed.)
None of these scenarios appeal to me, so I try to avoid them by repotting periodically (completely replacing soil,) trimming roots when necessary, and sometimes providing a larger pot, depends on the particular plant and how it's doing.
The decision of when to repot a plant should be made by considering many factors, including time of year, and I didn't propose a time to do this for this plant, or to do it at all. If one is using the same soil type that purchased plants are sold in, deciding when to repot would have nothing to do with a change in soil type, so one might not feel any need to do it for a while, no problem.
It's not possible to know how long a newly purchased plant has been in its' current pot. A specific amount of time after purchase is not a factor I've ever considered, but usually do it within a few days because I am going to change the soil type, and like to get rid of tiny pots ASAP, before I knock them around or the wind blows them around. They are also usually a really dark color, which gets too hot when the sun shines on it (for those plants that are given direct sun.) Though in the middle of winter, like most people who only do this outside, I don't do much repotting. The few new plants I find during this time often wait until the next warm, sunny day. Looking at the roots is necessary to know how they are doing, the primary factor I consider.
Regardless of when one chooses to do it, if plants didn't almost always respond when I repot with vigorous new growth, I wouldn't be such a fan. When I repot a plant, it is to relieve stress, not increase it. If waiting is working better for you, that's excellent. Nobody wants anyone to change anything that's working well. I would encourage you to consider more factors than purchase date for your repotting decisions, especially for plants purchased in late spring and summer. Your abilities and skills to observe are probably far superior to an arbitrary measure of time. I would give you ample credit for being well able to make some decisions based on more concrete observances, factors.
Awesome pics, HCMC!
A nice, informative essay on repotting plants.
I am sure many people will benefit from what you have written.
Thanks, Gita
Tiffany (Purpleinopp) has given good advice. Generally speaking, houseplants should be repotted in the month before their most robust growth, which pretty much translates to June. I rarely repot a tropical out of season, unless someone brings me one that's circling the drain - it just doesn't make sense to repot in late fall, winter, or spring when energy levels are somewhere between declining and at their lowest. Wait until long days have helped the plant build some energy reserves so they can quickly recover.
I always repot any houseplant I get as soon as it's prudent. If I buy one in Jun, Jul, or Aug, it's likely it'll be repotted the day I buy it or very soon after. If IO buy it at any other time, I wait to repot until sometime between Father's Day to Independence Day.
Your plant needs repotting when it reaches the point that the root/soil mass can be lifted from the pot intact. Once the plant reaches that point, it will decline steadily unless it's repotted. Repotting doesn't mean potting up a size. Repotting includes a change of soil and purposeful root pruning. By purposeful, I mean you have a plan you should stick to when you work on the roots. For most houseplants, it's best to remove the bottom 1/3 of the root mass, then bare-root the plant, then prune out 1/3-1/2 of the remaining roots, concentrating on the fat roots not growing directly off the stem. Plant tissues growing near the roots to stem transition retain their youthful vigor, so root pruning and repotting not only removes the limitations imposed by root congestion, it reinvigorates the root system because you're cutting back closer to the most vigorous part of the plant. Cutting the top back hard has the same effect, which is why it's called rejuvenation pruning - you're cutting back to more juvenile tissues (ontogenetically speaking).
There is no need to plant multiple plants in a pot to get a bushy plant. You can start with a young plant and prune the main stem back to only 2 leaves, or cut a more mature plant back hard. A new branch will grow from each of the 2 leaf axils (crotches), or in the case of a more mature plant cut back hard, from latent buds residing just above old leaf bundle scars. Let those branches grow until there are 4-6 leaves on each, and cut them back to 2 leaves. now there are 4 branches. Let these grow to 4-6 leaves and cut back to 2 leaves and you'll have 8 branches and a plant that is still short and starting to get bushy. Keep repeating and you'll get 16, then 32, then 64 or so many you lose count. The more branches and leaves (called ramification) you have, the more pruning opportunities you have and the easier it is to keep your plant looking nice & full.
Al
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