Help with Planting Semi-Dwarf Bing Cherry Tree

I purchased a Bing and Black Tartarian cherry trees last season,
probably waited too long with them in their pots, and planted them
according to the instructions. The Bing did nothing in the spring
and seems to be dead. The Black Tartarian flowered in Spring but
then dropped all the leaves and also now looks dead. I returned
them and have fairly healthy looking replacements that I will plant
very soon.
I would appreciate any tips for planting them with a better outcome.

Thanks, Pete

There is nothing so different about fruit trees that basic planting instructions do not cover, but here goes.

1) Dig a hole twice as wide as the container, but not any deeper. A tiny bit shallower is better.
2) Blend soil conditioner and a slow release fertilizer with some of the soil you have removed.
3) Remove the plant from the can.
4) Gently work the roots a bit (don't overdo it) and if they are loose enough spread them out in the hole aiming them down and away from the trunk. Cut off any broken roots just above the break. If the roots cannot be separated gently do not damage them.
5) Make sure the tree is turned around facing the right way. Some trees are a bit lop-sided, and will look better one way. Hold the tree upright. Look at where the tree originally was in the container. Plant with that soil level a bit higher (about an inch) than it was before.
6) Back fill with the blended soil. Firm this into place by hand, but do not compact it.
7) Build a berm on the downhill side of the plant, if there is a downhill, otherwise all around.
8) Water slowly. Use the water to help firm the soil around the roots.
9) Mulch the area around the plant. Do not put mulch right next to the plant.
10) Dwarf and semi-dwarf fruit trees usually do not need a stake. They are pruned more like a shrub than like a tree. However, if it needs a stake, then place the stake away from the trunk, and on the upwind side. If this is a very windy area, or the tree is larger then use 2 stakes set at right angles to the wind. The gentle winds should be able to blow the tree some, so it grows strong, but the stakes should provide support when the wind blows harder.

If the plant sinks so the original soil line is lower than the surrounding soil, then redo.

Thanks very much, that should help.

There were a lot of small yellow globes in the pots that popped with a liquid inside. I'm guessing that these are eggs (is that the correct term?) and am wondering if I should put down a pesticide for when they hatch. I cleared away as many as I could but I'm sure there are more deep in the ball.

They could be eggs, but I think they are the remnants of slow release fertilizer, perhaps Osmocote or similar.

I've seen Osmocote in yellow and probably a similar product in green but they were half the diameter and hard. These pop with liquid when crushed.

The replacement Bing and Black Tartarian cherry trees now also
seem to be dead.
They are close to the gutter down spouts and get a huge
amount of water during the rainy season. Not sure what
to do about this. We could dig a shallow trench and extend
the downspouts out past the trees, surfacing in the grass
where the lawn is graded down to the street. I'd probably
put gravel in the spot where they surfaced so that people
don't trip on the holes.
Perhaps a drainage trench with PVC pipe in it would be
better going along the front bed down to the driveway that
is also heavily sloped down to the street.

It would help if you could add some pictures, but here are some general concepts:

Trench from the downspouts to the street, or, if you stop before the street then make it OK where the water will discharge onto the lawn by making a dry creek bed look, or some other feature. That much water concentrated on the lawn will wash out the soil and cause erosion.

Depending on what the grade is doing you might be able to connect several downspouts and just have on drain pipe going across the lawn. Then it would be best to take it all the way to the street.

Here is a quick sketch of these concepts. (OK, I see the colors did not come through very well)
Black outline = house
Red tree-like things = trees.
Pink = downspouts.
Light blue = original area where downspouts would flood.
Dark blue = trench, pipe below grade. Connect downspouts and take it out into the sloping lawn.
Green = sloping lawn.
Brown = street
Grey circles = cobbles that diffuse the water so it does not erode the soil. Make it look nice, like a creek bed, some plants, a boulder or two... Choose plants that are very good when the soil is wet, and are good at preventing soil erosion. Research 'Bio swale'.
Grey swirls = the unknown area. If too much water comes through, or the dry creek is not well designed this area could now erode.

Thanks very much for your advice,
I have started thinking about diggin a trench with a PVC pipe
going down to the street were there is a rain sewer but that
would be a last resort.

I was looking for some pictures that I have yesterday but then
got distracted since they are on my laptop. I'll find them and
post.

The established plants (30 years) do just fine in this bed but I
did recently add extensions to the down spouts so it is a change.

Thanks again! Pete

Here is one tree, the other is about 8' to the left of this one and you can see
both down spout extensions. I'm thinking of taking a 45 deg bend to the left
exiting onto the grass where it will drain to the street.
The extension toward the back is the entire front of the house roof, the one
on the right is the front porch gutter.

The water from 2 downspouts can be quite a lot.
Yes, divert them elsewhere. If you can separate the water flow, spread it across a larger area that makes the chance of soil erosion less.
If you have to concentrate it in one spot, add some rock that is large enough not to get washed away.

Perhaps planting the trees on a small mound would be enough to keep them dry enough?

Thanks for your help Diana, I watched the water flow during a very heavy storm and noticed a few things.

The neighbor to the left is at higher ground and we get a lot of their water, but also, there is a very slight depression about 15' to the left of the trees that slopes down to a rain sewer in the street. The entire front yard slopes down.

I added an extension to the larger main gutter to head the water into that depression. The graped vine in the picture is growing fast and doing fine.

I've tried planting the cherry trees twice so far, Lowes took them back and gave me credit but that was before I diverted the water - they died both times, so I might try again this season.