Problem with ground nesting yellow jackets

DH got stung twice yesterday while cutting the grass. I think this may be a new nest as there's been no prior issues and I've been working in the beds almost daily.

Here's the problem - I garden in raised beds that are 19" high, and they are made up of cedar boards attached to posts using a tongue and groove system (no nails or screws used at all to hold it together). It looks like the nest may be under the bed - I can't find any holes in the ground itself but I do see the bees emerging out from underneath one of the boards. I can't take the bed apart or remove any of the boards due to the way it's constructed - it's physically impossible. So how do I get to this nest and if I do figure out a way to get to it, what can I use to kill the nest that won't effect the plants above it? I'm not just worried about me or DH getting stung I'm also worried about my dogs.

I know- everyone is gonna say to call a professional. Ugh.

Without knowing the exact location and size, you could try flooding the bed to drive the wasps out...maybe carefully remove the plants in the immediate area before hand....?

Here is some anecdotal info for you.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/green-homes/an-effective-non-toxic-solution-for-getting-rid-of-yellow-jackets-nests.aspx#axzz2WW2e21Od

http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/631447/

http://www.gardensalive.com/article.asp?ai=469

I am posting tis one only because some suggestions are just outrageous, but a couple sound viable.

Here is how I used to solve this problem:

1) Dig up the nest. Yes, this makes a mess of the bed. But it is completely organic, natural and 100% cure. Do it at night. They cannot see very well to attack. Dress in complete coveralls, veil, gloves... full bee suit. Lacking that, sturdy coveralls over street clothing, tuck in or tape the ends of the pants so the YJ cannot climb the pants legs. Gloves. NO FLASHLIGHT.
For added insurance, faster kill, have some poison ready to dust the nest area. Dust can be confined to the nest area, then, in a few days you can shovel away the whole thing, including the poison. No worries about future vegetables.

2) Flooding does not seem to work. They will come right back when the water goes away.

3) Poison. Most of the bee family is sensitive to almost all insecticides that are on the market. Hint: Look for the warning "This product is highly toxic to honeybees..."
Apply a powder in their path. They will walk through it, track it into the colony, and die. This may take some time. YJ are large (for an insect) and it takes a lot of poison to kill them. However, the poison is localized, along the entrance and to the nest. It does not volatilize, will not spread through the soil. It breaks down.

Gas them with any of the 'Flea Bomb' sorts of things. The cans you let off inside the house. This is tricky to use. The cans only work when they are right side up, never up side down. Dig enough room lower than their entrance so you can set the can at a bit of an angle, but mostly upright, aimed right into their hole. Set it, DO NOT INHALE! and angle it so the spray goes into the nest. This may take a few moments. Test the angle before you actually set it off. When you set it off the spray may not come out perfectly straight. Be prepared to turn the can around until the spray is going into the hole. Depending on the active ingredient, I would be reluctant to grow vegetables in that area for several months to a year. Most pesticides break down pretty fast, but there are also propellants in this sort of product. It volatilizes, spreads through the soil. While I have used this method very successfully in buildings, and non-vegetable gardens, I am not sure it is the best solution here.
Similar comments about those sprays that say they shoot 20'. You are going to miss the hole, and when it does hit the hole, it will also contaminate the soil, the board and whatever else is nearby. These products work well. When I was doing this, the Ortho brand of Hornet and Wasp spray was the most reliable delivery method. Those cans really would spray 20'.

4) Bury the entrance with lots of dirt does not work. A client called us after he had buried a nest, the YJ dug their way out, he buried them again (the new entrance) then they dug out again... I had to dig out over half a cubic yard of soil following their entrance tunnel to reach the actual nest.

In the very early spring get a yellow jacket trap. Set it, and bait it with the pheromone bait. This will attract the queen that has lived over the winter before she even gets her nest going, and will attract the earliest workers. If you can kill them before the nest is very populous then you may not even know where the nest was, you have stopped them from getting any larger population. Each worker killed in the early spring could have raised several more yellow jackets, and they could have raised a few more...

Do not wait until you have a problem with yellow jackets. By the time you have a problem the nest is so big that the few that are lost to a yellow jacket trap are not enough to seriously reduce the nest size.