I need to place a shade device in front of my Rhododendrons.

Richland, WA

These 2 Rhodies have been moved before, the roots are intertwined with other plants and don't think moving again would be good. This was a shady place but husband and I did not realize pruning of a distant large tree would remove their shade, but it did. I have held two pieces of lattice in front of them but it looks rather lame and will be at a 45% angle to the 4x4 of the partially shading adjacent arbor, and somewhat hard to attach. I would appreciate any suggestionsfor shading.

Contra Costa County, CA(Zone 9b)

Well, I think you are on the right track with the lattice. Make a support and frame, and support whatever you want on it.
Lattice, shade cloth, or grow a vine (takes more time).

Richland, WA

Thank you--nice idea. A frame might work....it will have to maneuver the 45% angle with the arbor post. Do you know where to get shade cloth? Can you see through it.....or would I have to remove the frame when the Rhodies are in bloom? (In the picture, the big green shrub to left of arbor is a Mock Orange, the Rhodies are under it. Later in the day they get full sun from over our roof, a number of hours. The burned leaves from last year will show if it expands enough.)

Thumbnail by raiseabed
Lititz, PA(Zone 6b)

I know you said you'd rather not relocate them but that is exactly what I would do if it was my yard. They don't look that big and I think a random piece of lattice near them might look out of place. I guess the lattice is worth a try but if it takes away from the beauty of your garden, I'd relocate.

As for the shade cloth, the type of cloth I'm familiar with is semi-see through.

Ayrshire Scotland, United Kingdom

There are loads of ideas as to make shaded areas in a garden but, the shading and the structure for it really has to suit the garden style, I was thinking a large triangle shaped cloth (like the cloth used for outdoor seating) but would a sail type shape look good in the middle of the town or even countryside if you get my drift.

I would agree Sequoiadenron and take the bull by the horns and relocate, HOWEVER, on saying that, you need to relocate ate the right time and im afraid to tell you at this time of year is absolutely NOT the best time as the soil, weather and even water is the wrong time.

Rhododendrons are shrubs that require acidic soil AND gentle shade, in their own environment in China, Japan ect where they grew and are bread, they grow best on the edge of woodlands when some shade comes from the shade of overhead trees as you have discovered to the detriment of your own plants.

Make a temp shade either by making an open sided tent to protect the plant and it's ROOTS from the strong heat of the sun, make sure the plants get plenty water as they are shallow rooted shrubs.
Meantime, dig a trench around the root area about a foot deep, how wide this trench is depends on how far out the roots reach, usually a shrub the size of your the circle /trench would be about 2 1/2 - 3 ft wide, after that,make up a mixture of peat, add a few handful's of acidic plant feed made for Rhodo /Azaleas ect, mix this well and place it into the trench, firm it in by the toes of your shoes and water every day in the heat reducing the water as the weather cools or not required. This trench will help the roots make new fine roots, these are the roots that spread out and search for water (the thicker type of roots are the ones that make the plant stable in the soil preventing it falling over.
End of year, I would get help to dig out the shrubs (carefully) try not to break ant roots, they are shallow rooted compared with other shrubs (when you said the roots were entwined with other plants, you may fund it's the other plants that have wrapped around the Rhododendrons) either way, if you take your time (and it's cooler weather) you will be able to remove the shrubs without TOO much damage.
You must have the new planting hole already dug 2 timed deeper than the old hole and at least a foot wider, loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole and add peat, animal manure and again some (a couple of handfuls of Acidic plant feed) go by dosage on packet of feed.
Set the plant about the same depth as it was growing before, as you begin to backfill the soil use a couple of clear plastic drinks bottles, cut the bottom off, remove the cap and sink the bottles into the planting soil /hole as you back fill and leave about 2 inches above soil so that when you water the shrubs in there new situation, you fill up the bottles a couple of times and this ensures the watering gets down to the roots and not runs off the top soil, after a few years if the shrubs are happy, you can remove these bottles, I practice this watering method with all NEW tree's or shrubs that have to come through warmer summer weather before they get well established into the new environment and can support themselves, later you find it easier to add feed also when you water as it reaches where it's most needed.
Hope this gives you confidence and some helpful tips, good luck and best regards.
WeeNel.

Contra Costa County, CA(Zone 9b)

Shade cloth is available on line, if you cannot find it locally.
It is available in many densities. The thinner material is easy to see through, but may let in too much sun.
Here is one place that sells it in many ways. I have linked you to one of their display pages where they are selling the frames and the shade cloth. It is also possible to buy just the shade cloth in many sizes and densities. There is some helpful info at that site suggesting what the various densities may be used for.

http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/cat1;ft_shade_cloth_material;ft_sunblocker_shade_systems.html

Ayrshire Scotland, United Kingdom

Thanks for the info Diane, in UK sometimes there is different terminology but it means the same stuff, your a star. Best Regards, WeeNel.

Richland, WA

Thank you all so much for the variety of ideas. I found a nice color of shade cloth at a local big hardware, and will make a portable banner to hang there in probably mid June to mid August, when it is often in the 90's. I have extra to shade a Blueberry Bush that needs it too.
Ally

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