I have researched what may be causing this and it seems that it may either be a iron deficiency or a ph problem. I think it may be an iron deficiency because the new growth is stunted as you can see. From what I read, a ph problem can cause like symptoms. Can anyone give me some help and tell me what you think? By the way, it is affecting only half the rose but slowly spreading. I noticed that some of the lower canes on the other half have lighter green leaves.
Iron deficiency and pH problems are often linked. When the soil pH is not right (pretty close to neutral) the iron is locked up in the soil in a way that the plant cannot get it.
Iron deficiency often shows as a multicolored leaf: The veins stay green, the blade between the veins goes yellow. In severe cases the entire leaf can be yellow. Iron is not easy for the plant to move from old leaf to new, so the older leaves might look OK, but the new ones can show iron deficiency. High phosphate fertilizer can also interfere with iron uptake.
If you suspect a pH problem test your soil, or have it tested.
The easiest way to tell if this is iron deficiency is to apply a liquid iron as a foliar feed. The leaves will take it in, and the first part to green up will be the veins. You can also use chelated iron fertilizer. Chelated means the iron is locked up in the fertilizer in a way the plant can get it and the soil is slow to lock it up.
I see the rose is on a chain link fence. Concrete (often used around the fence posts) can make the soil alkaline, and this can contribute to nutrient deficiency (including iron). If you think this is the problem, I would dig out and remove the soil, then refill the hole with a blend of soil from elsewhere in the garden and compost. If you do not want to replant the rose, then remove as much of the soil as you can without disturbing the roots and replace it with soil from a good area blended with compost. Either way, mulch the rose with compost or other plant based mulch such as bark or leaves.
The organic acids from the compost can help offset the alkalinity from the concrete.
Excellent answer, Diana. If there is a County Extension Service available, they might be able to test the soil for pH for a minimal cost.
Jim
weedsfree- look in your white pages directory under your county to find your local Cooperative Extension office.
Every one who gardens should take advantage of this service- it provides invaluable information.
Here is a link to get you started-
http://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/htm/soils/testing
Thank you!
I would buy a couple of soil testing kits from garden store, they cost a few dollars, give idiot proof instructions how to do the tests and they will with care, last you a good while, these testing kits will allow you to test the soil in various areas of your garden as it's probably not just the place where there is Roses growing, I would imagine the best way to amend and improve your soil for things like Roses is to add / dig in, as much humus as possible, WELL ROTTED animal manure is the best of all humus as this will help break up the soil, add nutrients, and in turn help feed and hold some moisture within the soil.
Roses are greed for food and they benefit from added nutrients added around the root area each year in the spring when the buds are abiut breaking.
IF you test the soil in other areas of the plot, then you may find you need to add other types of soil amendments, it could be iron, it could be calcium or other stuff lacking, the cost of going / paying the local or county Extension Office would pay for several soil testing kits that can be done over a period of time, and allow you plenty time to try amend the soil where required.
Best regards. WeeNel.
