Carolina Cherry Laurels - Is This Shothole Fungus?

Hi Everyone,

I'm new to the site, and am hoping someone out there can confirm what is making the leaves on my Carolina Cherry Laurels (Prunus Caroliniana 'Bright N Tight') turn red and then eventually the red parts fall off the leaf, leaving a jagged appearance.

I've tried spraying the leaves of the plants with chlorothalonil (Bonide Fung-o-nil), but it's not seeming to have much of an effect. I've attached some pictures of this, so please let me know if you can confirm what this is, and how to treat it. I would be most grateful!!

We planted a row of these last September along my backyard wall to give us more privacy, and I'm very concerned this could start to damage the plants. But, I'd also like to stop any further damage to the leaves, as it doesn't look very good.

Thanks!

Hi everyone, just bumping this topic to keep it fresh. This question has been viewed many times, but no one yet has posted any replies.

If anyone has an idea of what could be causing this reddening/damage to the leaves on these Carolina Cherry Laurels, it would be much appreciated. Thanks for your help!

That looks like the black spot that gets on Red Tip Phoetinia, but I don't know what other than fungicide-?

It does look like shothole fungus, which is incredibly difficult to treat. I personally do not know what fungicides work best for this, but try researching treatments specifically for this fungus, not all fungicides work on all fungus. Definitely read up up to see what other people have done ti see what works

I do know that wet/moist or over watered plants are more susceptible to this problem. Make sure you are checking your soil every time you are watering, at least 3-6"down at the edge of the rootballs. The top of the soil can be very deceiving, and make it easy to over water or under water. You want long deep soaks, instead of frequent, shallow and short waterings. How are you currently watering them?

I just looked at your first photo again and see the raised sprinkler heads, do they spray the foliage of this plant?

edit: for comparison http://www.nwtreespecialists.com/userfiles/tn_O5a_RedTipPhotinia.jpg

This message was edited Feb 13, 2012 12:03 AM

Thanks for the replies. Yes, those sprinkler heads were designed to spray right at these cherry laurels. However, once the fungus problem started, I have stopped running this zone altogether. I have only done some manual watering of these plants using a hose. I am thinking of converting some of these heads to a drip system, to make sure no water is spraying any of the leaves of these.

When you say to check the soil each time before watering, are you saying just to use a little hand trowel and to dig down 3-6" to see if the root ball is moist? I presume if it's moist, then there's no need to water? The soil in this area unfortunately is definitely on the clayey side.

By the way, I took a look at the picture you included of the photinias...is that shothole on that plant too?

Thanks...

Kevn, I use a moisture meter. About $5 wherever they sell plants. If you don't like that idea , a chopstick or bamboo skewer poked in the soil, and left a few minutes will also tell you how deep the moisture goes. Depending on how many large roots you might run into, even pushing a piece of rebar into the ground to see how far it will go easily will work. Just remember to do any of the above at the drip line of the shrub, not close to the trunk. Automatic sprinklers and mulch around the trunk of trees and shrubs can be fatal to them. The roots need the water, the trunk doesn't. Drip irrigation would be better. By the way, those methods will also work for adjusting your sprinklers in the lawn. If you have clay, the water may be running off, and down the street after 10 min. If that is happening, shorter, more frequent water times will solve the problem. For the shrubs several drip heads per plant, at the drip line would be best, and you can get adapters that will work off your existing sprinkler heads.

Yes, I usually just use a hand trowel or my hand depending on the soil type. There really is no other way to find out if they need to be watered or not, especially if you have lots of clay. Something I always remind people is that leaves can wilt even if the plant is well watered during heat waves or when they are sick. Good call on stopping the sprinklers from spraying them, especially if the are timed for your lawn, which needs way more water than these shrubs would. Drip is probably the best way to go, that or a soaker hose. Start out low and slow, like an hour, then see how much you have watered. Adjust more or less accordingly.

And yes, that photo of Photinia has shothole fungus. Good luck with that, its a bugger of fungus to get rid of.

Do you have a warranty of any kind on those shrubs?