Just got the house resided and now have to paint the brick the same color. But my question is. Should I take down the cedar tree and the rhododendron and re landscape that area?. Both have ,to my opinion, out grown their area's. And if I do what should I put there?
another view in front.
That is a pussy willow in front of the big window that I cut back this fall. I think I need to cut it back farther.
I don't care for the cedar, and personally don't like bushes that block windows. Too bad thats a big rhodie, I also hate to kill big old flowering things.
For the cedar place, maybe a tree that would grow up vase shaped and leaves eye level more clear. Or something much lower.
I agree with the blocking windows , the only thing is the window closest to the front door is a bathroom ( DUH, stupid place for a bathroom.), and the next is a bedroom. I have had to put that window film on that window so that you cant see right in when you are standing at the front door....lol
So If I cut them down what kind of landscaping do you think. Low shrubs close to the house with a type on center focus point.
This picture kinds gives you an idea how far out the cedar is from the front door. I would say it is about 10 ft out at the corner of the patio. As you can see, inpatients love it in that corner between the front door and the Rhododendron.
I'm sort of in the same boat with our front landscaping. We recently took down 3 big cedars just like yours that looked great when they were 4 feet tall and terrible when they got too big. I agree the cedar has got to go, but can you move the rhodie or give it away? They transplant fairly well. As for what to put in their places, with my own place, I'm starting to move toward big "shrublike" perennials (like peonies, ferns, etc.) instead of the traditional shrubs.
I guess what I'm suggesting is replace both cedar and rhodie with a big clumping perennials of varying heights?
The siding is lovely. You're sure to enjoy it forever..."vinyl is final".
I'd move the pussy willow and the cedar. Replant elsehere or not, as you wish. The rhodie can be transplanted easier than you may think. The size of it makes it appear that it would have a huge root ball but we haven't found that to be true at all. The root area isn't large so give it a try.
Once you have a clean slate and take more photos and maybe we can be of more help.
Thanks. I agree that cedar did look better when it was small.
I was wondering about moving the Rhody. I have a Hydrangea next to it on the right. I was thinking about moving it over away from the tall grass. The only draw back is the large over hang. so it does not get a lot of direct water.
Marie, I have a similarly placed Little Gem magnolia- that I'm similarly unhappy with now. I think you'll be happy with taking the cedar out. An interesting but not too tall bush maybe? Hary Lauder's Walking stick? Red or yelllow twigged Dogwood?
My only note against perennials is that you don't want everything to totally die down and look realll bare at times. Statues/ decor items and winter interest and nice mulch probably takes care of that.
I understand the thing about intentionally blocking the winods. Not just for the obvious view-in but for keeping someone from getting close to the window.
I also have those wide overhangs and find that area is really much drier than you'd think. I pointed that out to a neighbor as why her new azaleas probably died.
Oh yes it is Sallyg, very dry.
Except where the inpatients thrive that area stays damp due to the hose connection and not much sun.
I was thinking about a weeping cherry tree in place of the cedar. They stay small right? Against the house I will have to think about that. maybe some shrubs to the rear and then hydrangeas in the front, that way when the hydrangeas are dead in the winter I will still have the shrubs.
As a tree lover. I don't see anything wrong with the landscaping, BUT with the type of plants that you say are growing in these beds, it suggests that the soil is slightly acidic therefore, you need to look out for replacement plants that like that sort of soil conditions,
you can always prune / cut the Rhododendron back to a more manageable size and it would be best to do this right after the plant has stopped flowering /just when the flowers start to turn brownish, then cut back the stems / branches, Rhododendrons are one of the plants that begin to form the following years new buds right after flowering, also cutting back would allow light into the base where new foliage would get a chance to grow. as for the Ceders, they are like so many of these trees, they get planted without people looking to see what their final hight will be, as they all look so good when small,. As mentioned above, I would try dig out a large root-ball so the can be transplanter as with the pussy willow, to do this properly and give the tree's a fighting chance, make sure you wait till the end of summer or early spring, summer end means the soil is still a little bit warm, spring is time where soil starts to warm up before too hot. before digging out the trees, prepare the new planting hole deeper / wider than the one the tree's come from, add as much leaf mold / compost or manure as you can get, sprinkle to rate suggested on packet of multi purpose feed and re-plant those tree's as soon as you lift them, when doing this task I like to add a few clear plastic juice bottles to the backfill root area as this way, you can give the roots a drink when replanted and do so for the first couple of years till they settle into new place. the trees will go into shock after transplant and could look sad for a couple of months till they re-adjust so be patient.
As for the Lovely Weeping Cherry, these tree's are not natural weepers and to get this effect, the growers add side buds from a different type of cherry onto the root-stalk (Trunk), so you need to ask what type of parent plant the buddings are from and how tall the trunk will grow or you could end up with the same problems again in a few years time.
You are fortunate that there is a decent space between the landscape and the foundations /windows etc so I would think carefully before you take too much down, maybe the previous owners had a problem with open exposure to the inside of the home much more than you imagine but, good luck anyway and happy gardening. WeeNel.
I'm of the same mind as weenell-that cedar adds impact and it's height and maturity conveys a sense of a sure hand in your landscape. If it is not intruding onto a walkway I would keep it. The rhody can be much improved with pruning and shaping, after flowering as weenell says. It's legs are unsightly. That I would have to correct. I like the overall look and maturity of your beds.
Patti that Rhodi was trimmed that way because I had all Hosta underneath it. But the voles cured that this summer...lol
I have trimmed the Rhodi and moved the ones hydrangea over that was too close to the grass and it is now between the Rhodi and grass. I moved another large hydrangea to the other side of the Rhodi next to the front door then put 2 smaller growing hydrangeas in front of that. We will see how that looks next spring.
to keep your Hydrangeas to a more pleasing size, you have to prune them by half after flowering, then in early spring you prune again and can cut down to about foot from the ground, I like to keep them about 24 inches and I cut the branches just above an outward facing bud, remove some of last years growth within the center of the bush to allow air to circulate as this prevents mold etc forming in the middle of the shrub, these are generally trouble free plants though and deserve their spot in the garden, just don't plant them too close to each other.
Your Hosts should have done well in the shade under the Rhododendron, so maybe they will come back again, Voles done eat plants but will have eaten the worms and slugs etc, Slugs and snails are the most dreaded enemy for Hostas and the like.
Good luck, you are doing the right thing by changing things a bit at a time so happy gardening. WeeNel.
I dont mean to correct you WeeNel, but Moles eat the grubs and worms, but Voles eat plants from the bottom. Believe me I have been fighting them for years now.
I always understood if I cut the Hydrangea's back in the spring they would not bloom because they are setting their buds then. I guess it depends on if they bloom on new wood or old.
Hi Marie I stand corrected re the Voles, I have loads of Voles but, never found them eating the base of any plants, maybe Scottish voles are more considerate ha, ha, ha, seriously I will watch out for this more closely. I don't know IF my Hydrangeas bloom on old or new wood, I just do what my dad did many years ago, the buds I am cutting down too are Leaf buds and I find if cut to this outer bud, in a few months new side shoots grow out-wards instead of lots growing in the middle of the plant causing overlapping branches which CAN allow disease to enter the branch. I have to admit that I always have a great show of large plate size flowers each year so would assume the flowering buds are growing on new wood.
I was at a garden show last month and there was beautiful new Hydrangeas never heard of before on show, they were magnificent large flowers that were cone shaped, large, shades of pale pink, off white and cream so look out for them in a couple of years time, I looked at the price of the plants and was in shock which made me forget to take note of the name, but look out for them they are just wonderful.
Take care and happy gardening. Weenel.
Now keep in mind that Moles stay under ground and make a mess of the yard or lawn, by tunneling all over eating. The voles look like small mice and they will dig half dollar holes, or follow a Mole tunnel, to get to the bottom of a plant and eat the roots. The plant will look nice at the top till it starts to die and you cant figure out what is wrong till you pull it up and see no roots left. Hosta is their favorite plant i think.
I will try your method of cutting on my older Hydrangea's that I just moved.
I have the Limelight and the blooms are the shape of that one you saw. I think the name of that might be Strawberry Vanilla or something like it. I planted a small Strawberry Vanilla last year and am hoping to have blooms this spring. They can be cut back hard and bloom on the new wood just like the Lime Light.
I'm toying with the idea of Hydrangeas...all I have is old-fashioned Annabelle, so all this information is GREAT! Thank you both so much!
LysmachiaMoon, I have lots of Hydrangea's. I even make new ones by rooting a stem in a pot that I keep very moist till I see roots form. Or bend a branch to the ground and let it take root. But I am concerned after I have some trees taken down this month that the sun might be too much for them. I will see how much it changes after they are gone. Take a chance and get some.
I have lots of Hydrangeas growing and found them to be as tough as old boots, we live directly on the coast and they get blown to bits by strong salty gales and then get strong hot sunshine in summer months (when we get sun) in winter they can get frosted too so as you can imagine, I need plants that are going to withstand a lot of abuse from climate,
hence the reason I cut half the stems down in autumn, this to prevent the harsh wind splittings / breaking branches, in very early spring the new buds break and the tips of the stems have been burnt dry with salty wind so, I do the further prune spring time, add a feed and leave alone the rest of summer, in my garden the hydrangeas don't flower properly till late summer July / August, even though we had a real severe winter last year, we had the best flowers ever on the hydrangeas, strange eh !!!!!, ever the colours were more vibrant.
What I like about these plants is they seem to thrive on neglect. even my wall climbing Hydrangeas are tough here and one on a North wall is covered in cream / white flowers each spring.
Happy gardening, WeeNel.
I would take out the cedars, move the roddie and extend the hydrageas across under the windows. As far as the bath window issue, maybe a tall trellis that is installed perpedicular to the house wall and planted with clematis or some other vine.
I did that with a clem last year , and the vole or chipmunk killed it. By the way how do you get rid of chipmunks?...lol.
I am still unsure of the cedar. I am concerned with its possible over growth in that area. I just have to decide what to put there if I take it down. A lime light ,a weeping cherry tree,or just flowers.
See URL for some ideas on control methods for voles including a wire fence buried 6 to 10 inches below grade and rising 12 inches above grade. Someone else I talked with was putting their bulbs in wire cages and then planting them. A similar idea might work for the items you are losing. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7439.html
The weeping cheeries that I have seen are somewhere in the 15 foot range but the issue for you may also be on how wide they spread. You might be better off looking at a lilac standard or dwarf crabapple trees.
Simple answer. If you feel they have out grown their spot they have. No more discussion. Many of my clients feel the need to hold onto plants because they are "mature." I say if you do not like them get rid of them and plant something you like instead.
Hi Flowerguy, I think we are looking at things from 2 different angles here, most of us are looking at the question asked from a gardeners point of view and take into account how long it took a tree to grow to the size it has, or if your loosing light because of it, or the property is being destroyed because of roots etc, but, I get the feeling your more used to selling plants to clients, therefore your looking purely from a financial point of view and ease for YOU to replace them. I personally would try my up-most to keep a plant / move a plant or trim a plant or trees whatever the subject is, just because after it tried to grow in all types of adversary, they deserve a chance. the beauty of this site is, we are all different and different opinions are what helps us all learn, so no hard feelings I hope. Good Luck. Weenel.
