How did my pole beans turn into bush beans??

Hyde Park, MA

I planted 3 different kinds of pole beans this year, using the leftover seeds from last year. Last year, I had a very happy (if somewhat late, due to the cold, grey June we had) bean tower covered in vines. This year, everything started out happy enough, but one variety has stopped growing once it hit bush bean height--I think it's the dragon tongue. Also, the other beans that have grown seem to be taking forever to produce. There have been tiny beans coming out for over a week or so, but they seem to stall at about 2" long. It has been very hot here for quite awhile; upper 80's to mid 90's for several weeks--could that have anything to do with it? My whole garden just seems confused and off. By the way, I do water every day.

Augusta, GA(Zone 8a)

Dragon Tongue is a bush bean. Pole beans do struggle in heat, so that may be the problem with the others.

Hyde Park, MA


Well, I feel like an idiot. (But thank you for answering my question, Farmerdill). I guess my bean tower last year was so heavily covered that I never realized that the dragon tongue weren't part of the vines. Duh.
On a different note, would the heat be playing havoc with my tomatoes? They too seem to have reached half of their normal height and then just stopped. Producing tomatoes (I'm actually picking them already), but no new growth or flowers that I can see.

Wakefield, RI

I had a similar problem with beans last year. I purchased Roma bush beans and when they reached the 5-6 leaf stage they started sending out runners. I checked the seed package to be sure they were bush beans and they were. I called the company where I purchased the seed to ask if it was possible that the packets were mislabeled. The person who I spoke to told me she would check into this. She called me back 2 days later telling me that stress can cause bush beans to revert to a climbing variety. I see you live in Mass. so you know what weird weather we had last year. I thought this was just a way of the company getting around the fact that the packs were not labeled correctly so I planted the remaining beans and sure enough they grew true as bush beans. About your tomatoes. Are they determinate or indeterminate? Do you know what variety you planted?

Hyde Park, MA

Thanks, cyclops, that makes me feel better! Plus, I do love Baker Creek Seeds, but they
only put generic planting info on their packets--there's nothing to indicate whether the seeds are pole or bush; clearly I'd gotten confused between ordering and, months later, planting, and the package couldn't set me straight.
Anyway, I planted almost all indeterminate varieties of tomatoes. Only my black cherries seem truly happy. Most of them form flowers that then dry up and fall off. All my tomatoes last year looked sickly (they had some sort of bacterial thing from all the wet), but grew tall (over 5 feet) and produced tons of tomatoes. This year some of the plants are continuing to slowly grow, but most seem stalled at 3-4', and the tomatoes are so much smaller than last year. I do water every or every other day--about 3 gallons per 8 plants. And back to beans--now that I think about it, flowers have been forming for a month, but I still don't see many beans. Is it too hot for bees? Do bees need to pollinate the bean flowers? You're close to me--how's your garden doing? I add compost to my soil every year, and rotate crops (I grow in raised beds), but I'm wondering if my soil isn't rich enough.

Wakefield, RI

Luckily my garden never needs watering even during drought conditions as it is adjacent to a wetland area. My soil is a heavy loam and ideal for everything I have tried to grow the exception being carrots. As far as beans are concerned bees are not required for pollination. Beans are self pollinating and pollination actually occurs before the flower opens so that is not your problem. I do not grow pole beans but the bush beans I have planted (Provider and Roma II) are growing and producing like crazy. Luckily I have friends who come and pick them. A week ago I planted another 50' row of each. I have no idea why so much. I just like to see things grow I guess. Is it pole beans you are concerned about? I know pole beans do not produce heavy crops all at once but produce over a longer period. There are many reasons for blossom drop in tomatoes one being high day and night temps which we have been experiencing for a while now. At times tomatoes will abort some flowers as a mechanism that allows for fewer but larger fruit. Another is too much or too little nitrogen. I use 5-10-10 granular fertilizer, the 5 number being the percentage of nitrogen, only once a year just when the first little tomatoes begin to show. At planting I use a 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer. I add 1 TBLSP to a gallon of water and place the root ball in it and let it sit for about a minute before putting the plant in the ground. This is the only fertilizing I do and right now my plants are loaded albeit mostly green fruit. If you are using a formulation such as Miraclegro all purpose the nitrogen level is 20% and in my opinion too high. Another possibility is that you are trying to grow a variety of tomato not suited to our conditions. I am growing Better Boy, Sweet 100, and a plum variety named APT 533. I have tried in the past growing some of the Heirlooms but did not have the same luck as I have had with hybrids due to disease problems. You are correct when you say you are seeing no bees due to high temps. You can try shaking the flowers,this will help loosed the pollen. High humidity also hinders pollination. Watering every day is not ideal. Tomatoes have a naturally deep root system and should be given a good deep watering maybe once a week only. Watering on a daily basis encourages the root system to stay closer to the surface and weaken the plant. This in my experience is true of most plants. I have read many of Farmerdill's postings and in my opinion he is always right on.

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