HI everyone -
We bought some foundation shrubs/trees about a month ago and they look bad, really bad (pic attached.)
There are 3 green mountain boxwoods, 1 golden mop, 1 montgomery blue spruce (and some nana junipers...)
We put in potting soil when we planted them, they are in full full sun, and we water them twice a day.....
Please, please...does anyone have any ideas?
(p.s. - We are outside of Boston and it's been too too hot lately)
!!! Thanks
Dying shrubs & trees - pls help
Marjan12 - You said you put in "potting soil" when you planted them in the ground? Potting soil is intended for potted plants, and drains faster than "garden soil". Thus, if you have a significant amount of potting soil in the ground, your soil may be draining way too quickly. Paired with your hot weather, the plants may not be getting enough water due to manipulating the soil drainage rate.
I agree and I'll add that if your soil is mixed correctly you shouldn't have to water anything twice per day especially broadleaf evergreens and conifers. In fact you should be able to water them deeply and skip at least one day. (except for root bound deciduous plants). From that picture it looks as though the gold mop may recover but the boxwood is probably toast. BTW when you say "potting soil" do you mean Miracle Grow potting soil? In that case, the roots could have also experienced fertilizer burn.
If you have clay soil they could also be suffering from too much water--while it's harder to overwater newly planted things, watering twice a day could easily be too much if the soil outside the immediate planting hole is clay-ish. The water will drain OK through the potting soil that you put in the hole, but it'll drain out through the clay much more slowly, so it gives almost the same effect as planting them in pots with no drainage holes and then watering them twice a day.
First of all I would get out the trowel and scrape away the soil close to the plants to find out if the water is actually getting DOWN to the roots of the shrubs, the top soil looks a wee bit compacted which can sometimes cause the water you say you are giving the plants, to just run off and not get down to the roots, you will know right away if the soil is bone dry about an inch under the top soil. Also when you water, are you aiming the hose etc at the roots or are you watering on top of the foliage, sometimes the foliage prevents the water reaching under the shrub to the roots where it is needed, IF the soil is very dry around the roots mt suggestion would be to dig a small hole about a foot away from each shrub, slope the hole towards the shrubs root, then insert a plastic drinks container that you have cut the bottom off and insert this narrow neck down into the hole, when you water, you just fill up the container a few times and let it soak away down to the root soil where the shrub roots get the water it needs, you can also add liquide feeds this way too but, only IFF required.
Another idea that might help if the new plants are in direct sun ALL day, fix up a little shelter for them by using garden canes and some dark fabric /plastic bin bags etc, this will help prevent the sun scorching the tender new growth and also it might help stop evaporation when the sun is at it's hottest, you can remove the temp shade when ever the weather cools a bit and can leave the drinks container till you feel the plants are able to look after themselves better.
Like Ecrane mentioned, by digging down close to the root area and you find clay or wet / damp soil, then you need to water less, add some grit to the soil for better drainage, but I would still make a sun shade for the NEW plants.
Good Luck. WeeNel.
Be careful if digging near the roots because that could cause additional trauma to the transplants. Rather, I would place a layer of organic mulch (like pine bark or hardwood, but you can also use grass clippings and other waste lawn material you find around) around the base of the plant, but not up against the plant. You then water the mulch around the plant heavily once a day (early morning the best). The next day, and even subsequent days, dig your finger into the mulch and very first layer of dirt. If it feels moist, don't water. If it feels dry, then water.
I have found that erring on the side of too little water is much better than too much. Even if the plant wilts, it can come back (although, some plants are not as forgiving). Boxwoods actually do really well without a lot of water, so overwatering could definitely be affecting it. Don't give up on the boxwood.
I'm not familiar with the other plants you mentioned, but mulch should help regardless. The mulch will retain a lot of the water, as well as prevent run off. Best of all, it will actually help keep the soil below it cooler for the plant. And it gives a neat look to your landscaping as well.
Don't give up!
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