Jasmine Propagation?

Hello,
I recently bought a jasmine flower (possibly J. sambac) and am interested to know if anyone who has successfully propagated them can share any methods for doing so?

Thank you in advance for any time and effort.

I have two jasmine plants and have successfully propagated new plants from both (one is a jasmine shrub type). In the spring I take a long tendril and peg it into a pot filled with good potting soil (or you could peg it to the ground). I use a landscape staple to peg it with. By the following spring I have a well rooted plant already in a pot. I clip it from the mother plant and can then give it to a friend or plant it elsewhere in my yard. Hope this helps.

This doesn't seem to have any tendrils on it, from what I am seeing. Does the plant need to be of certain maturity before it will develop tendrils?

I had read the below on another forum

here: http://www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12231

"I've successfully rooted jasimum sambac and gardenia by placing a 4 to 5-inch piece of new (a month or two old) wood in water. It takes 2-3 months to develop a root system."

What I don't understand is what is meant by 'wood' Does this imply the plant is of a certain age, maturity, growth, etc? This jasmine does not seem to be of much age, yet, so I am interested if it is viable for a cutting.

I've also read this:

"Make a slant cut where a branch meets the main stem of the plant. Make sure the cutting is not more than 6-8 inches long. Take off all of the leaves except the top two or three. Use a pot of wet sand or wet perlite and dip the cut end of the cutting in a rooting hormone like Rootone. Stick the cutting into the growing medium (sand or perlite) and seal inside of a plastic, clear bag. Keep warm, especially on the bottom (no less than 75 degrees, no more than 85). Mist a couple of times a day. Rooting should occur in about 6-8 weeks. Check by digging gently near the cutting to find white roots."

The last reference I found was here: http://the8thwonder.org/2009/10/21/how-to-propagate-arabian-jasmine-aka-jasminum-sambac/

Also, I am planning to use a willowbark infusion in place of the rooting hormone, as I have read the following:

"RE: Is rooting hormone allright? A better alternative?

Sorry about the long post, but perhaps I can shed some light on the topic. All plants contain the necessary hormones (IAA, NAA, and IBS) to root, otherwise how would they root in the first place? The only reason some cuttings are hard to root, or won't root at all on their own is because of the plants natural process of damage control, i.e. wound response.

Abscisic Acid is a stress hormone that plants use to automatically dieback injured areas in response to wounding or disease such as occurs at the severed end of a cutting. Adding additional hormone to a cut stem to induce rooting is one method of counteracting this response, but essentially all you are doing is disinfecting the area while providing enough additional hormone to maybe (maybe not) develop more mass than the abscisic acid released during the wound response can cope with. Eventually, if you're successful, it's because you reach a point where the wounded area is either partially closed, and/or the root material has eclipsed it, and abscisic acid stops being produced.

Why explain all this? Because there is another method (already mentioned) that works just as well without stressing the plant by forcing it to grow both more mass as well as fight the effects of abscisic acid, willow water. Someone already mentioned aspirin being the same thing, well it is and it isn't.

Aspirin, which as we all know comes from the bark of the willow tree, does contain one of what appears to be two necessary/active ingredients in willow water for successful root incubation. This is Salicylic Acid. Salicylic acid is an abscisic acid inhibitor. That's to say, not only will it stop the affect of already present abscisic acid on wounds, but it stops the wound response and production of abscisic acid all together. On top of this it acts as an anti-coagulant keeping the fresh cut open and allowing the cutting to wick much needed water and nutrients during this vital stage.

The second vital ingredient, a substance that you won't get from aspirin, is rhizocaline. A mysterious yet naturally occurring compound of what is thought to be vitamins B, H, boron, sugar and/or other nitrogenous minerals that act in conjunction with IAA, and IBS. Research has found that this is the key catalyst to promoting root formation. All plants contain and use it, but willow has such an abundance as to make it king of rhizocaline.

If extracted and used properly, willow water can be the most effective way to produce rooted cuttings. There are many recipes for making it; leaving willow branches in water for 4 weeks to root; steeping 6 inch willow cuttings in cool water for 72 hours; or 1 inch cuttings for 24 hours; boiling the cuttings; mashing and splitting the cuttings and brewing them in bot recently boiled water. There are loads, and some of these may be more (or less) effective than others. But to get the real expert's advice, go to Dr. Makota Kawase who in the mid 1960's discovered rhizocaline by experimenting with willow and has been developing the process ever since.

Dr. Kawase's advice: "cut current year's growth from any Salix species. Then, remove the leaves and cut into one inch pieces. Place these right side up (Eireann: direction is important since rhizocaline and IAA move polarly down the stem of any cutting) in a glass, add 1/2" of hot water, cover with a plastic bag and let sit 24 hours. Steep your cuttings in this for and additional 24 hours, and then place in the rooting medium with or without rooting hormone, as needed (Eireann: My suggestion is without). The willow water may be stored in the refrigerator and covered to prevent contamination, but is best used up within three days."

Additionally Dr. Kawase encourages the use of etoilation in promoting rooting. Total darkness, he found, increased rooting "sharply" up to four days, which is three days faster than anything I ever did with store bought rooting hormone. The basal tips MUST be in darkness for rooting to occur. "

My apologies for the length of the post, but any input is appreciated.

If anyone has any input, my most immediate questions with regards to my previous post is:

This doesn't seem to have any tendrils on it, from what I am seeing. Does the plant need to be of certain maturity before it will develop tendrils?

I had read the below on another forum

here: http://www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12...

"I've successfully rooted jasimum sambac and gardenia by placing a 4 to 5-inch piece of new (a month or two old) wood in water. It takes 2-3 months to develop a root system."

What I don't understand is what is meant by 'wood' Does this imply the plant is of a certain age, maturity, growth, etc? This jasmine does not seem to be of much age, yet, so I am interested if it is viable for a cutting.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Hi JP,
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner--we've had two surgeries at my house and been quite busy.
Yes, a jasmine would need to have matured to a certain age before it's stems begin to get woody. I can't attest to rooting a younger, non-woody piece in water because I've never tried it but don't see why it wouldn't work. There are other plant species that will readily root in water but they need to be cut during active growing season. When I laid a piece of my jasmine across a pot of soil, pegged it, and left it to form roots, it was a piece of non-woody stem; however, the plant itself has a woody base and was, at the time, about three years old. It got woody at the base when it was about two years old. If your plant doesn't have any tendrils on it yet, you might want to wait until it does before attempting to cut pieces to root.