I planted dwarf type apricot.
But top looks crowded for me.
I wonder if I should cut some branches?
Which one needs to cut?
Here are more pictures.
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5475433156721694482
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5475433163681750034
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5475433171679412530
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5475433182144926338
Is that a grafted plant?
I am unable to tell for sure but in a couple of those photos it looks grafted with sprout/s from the original rootstock competing with the grafted portion.
If you bought this locally I would take these photos right to their door and ask them how to handle it because I think it needs some shaping really badly. Even some spacers put in to spread those branches.
But first things first- is it a grafted plant?
I would try asking in the Fruit Forum- http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/f/fruit/all/
Or even in Trees- http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/f/tas/all/
Sorry I am of no help, but your instincts are correct- it does look as if it needs some attention.
I bought it from "Miller Nurseries" on line.
Here is more pictures.
I'm not sure if it possible to figure out with these pics it's grafted plant or not. ---- I'm so so beginner.
I want to do someting before it's too late.
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5477475742075951442
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5477475743736638146
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5477475752686586002
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5477475757922829554
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5477475783376961090
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5477475748341256466
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5477475750638878962
http://picasaweb.google.com/en.afro/OmbQtD#5477475768193040674
Thank you!
I sent out a request for help to the Trees people- I hope they can help.
It sure looks like it needs pruning but I don't want to give you bad advice. Hold off until tomorrow at least- holidays and all.
We'll get it figured out.
If Snellvillesama will take the time to post those images from the offsite website onto this thread (yes, I know you only get to do one at a time), then I might be able to be helpful.
I'm not interested in bouncing back and forth between websites, and from some computers I'm firewalled from even looking at an offsite host. Plus, it is a good learning curve for everyone if all this information is in one place because with time a lot of those external links can be lost.
I am happy to do it!
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It looks like your branch labeled B is your biggest liability. I can't see any scenario where you would keep that one, as it conflicts with almost all the others.
It should be pruned off with a proper pruning cut at the trunk. Before you do that, though, make an appointment with your county's Cooperative Extension Service agent to examine this branch that you cut off, and to review the images you've shown here. They should be able to give you a lot of additional good LOCAL information on fruit tree growing for the home orchard.
Something about the bark on some of those branches all growing parallel doesn't seem quite right. Have that checked out for health or pathogens.
http://www.ugaextension.com/gwinnett/
Apricot trees fruit best when trained to a vase shape (several main limbs that grow upward to form the crown) instead of having a main trunk with lateral limbs. The tree will be strongest if those main limbs are spaced farther apart on the trunk. If all of the limbs start from the same point, that will be a weak spot where the tree can break during a storm or other stress.
The main limbs also need to spread farther apart. Limbs that grow straight up from the junction with the trunk form a pocket of bark in the crotch that prevents the tree from forming a strong connection between limb and trunk.
My suggestions are: 1. remove the two smaller branches in the top cluster (B&D). 2. Spread the remaining branches apart using either a special spreader (http://www.starkbros.com/access?action=product&productID=H17520&collection=1) or make your own. Wrap limbs loosely with green tie or cloth to keep the spreader from rubbing the bark. The spreader can be removed after a year if the limbs will stay spread without it. 3. unless you want the lowest limbs on your tree to be very close to the ground, remove the branch with the yellow tag. If you want to keep that limb, remove at least half of it now. It is rather disproportionate to the other limbs and will make the tree uneven if it grows faster than the others. 4. remove small sprouts on the lower half of the trunk.
North Carolina Extension Service has a good pruning guide with lots of pictures http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/ag29.html. Apricots should be pruned like peach and nectarine trees.
I asked my County Extension Office as Mr. or Ms. ViburnumValley's advice.
He says like "This may be the ugliest apricot tree that I have seen in a long time, but OK, we can work with that."
Wow!
Basically, His advice are cut B,C and D.
But not right now as is well known except me. In January or early February.
Also, Mr. or Ms. Katlian's advice are BIG HELP.
I'm gonna cut the branch with the yellow tag.
I try to keep vase shape.
I didn't even know what is spreader.
I owe you so much for this.
You're welcome, good luck with your tree!
Young trees will sprout a lot along the trunk and around the base. You can snap those sprouts off any time; you don't have to wait for winter if you get them while they are still small and soft.
Snellvillesama:
You are welcome (from this mister).
I am reluctant to make such judgments as your extension agent has - since beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
May you be blessed with many apricots to come. That's one of my favorite fruits.
G'Day
I agree with"Greatswede" prune off B,C & D, Leave A as the main trunk and head back to a height that suits you but usually about 2ft, 2ft 6in. Check first to ensure that there are about 4 good healthy buds below where the cut will be made as these will be the new branches. It looks as if originally 3 branches came from the same bud giving the tree the weak crotch so make sure the new limbs all come from different points. Also it seems the prunuing cuts will be fairly big so paint the wounds to protect the tree from the entry of Pathogens through those wounds. Special wound paint can be bought from Nursery/Garden centres but any left over paint in the shed will do.
Brian
Thank you Brian,
I am a foreigner with poor English.
So, I'd like make sure to understand your precious advices.
>Check first to ensure that there are about 4 good healthy buds below where the cut will be made as these will be the new branches.
Is it means I have to make sure they are 4 good healthy buds below branches before cut them off?
So, that bads going to be securement.
But If I didn't see "healthy looking buds", I might wait to pruning until find them.
Am I crrect?
>It looks as if originally 3 branches came from the same bud giving the tree the weak crotch so make sure the new limbs all come from different points.
3 branches means B, C& D?
And new "healthy looking 4 bads" has to be NOT like that crowded or too close.
I should cut buds that too close.
Am I crrect?
I have a "PRUNING SEAL" spray.
It says "Protect Pruned Tree & Shrub Limbs So They Can Heal."
I hope it works.
I add pictures of today's apricot plant.
They are growing.
last picture.
Oh, yes, I got a Orange Sweet Olive plant a.k.a. "Osmanthus fragrans aurantiacus".
I ordered internet.
This time, a branch is loop back 90 degrees like this.
Oh, no. Not again. Am I under a curse?
G'Day Snellvillesama,
I will try to explain but you might find it more helpfull to visit a Nursery/Garden Centre and ask for one of the staff to show you what I mean.
If you look closely at your new growth you will see, just above any leaf a knobby bumb, these are the buds I am referring to. Down on the main trunk there are no leaves but you will still see the buds these are the buds that you want to form your new limbs. You will notice that they do not come from the same place but alternate around the trunk, they might be very close but they are not from the same point and this is what will give you the strong crotch. Trying to be not too technical, each knobby bump will consist of a number of buds (eyes) some of these on new wood will be fruit buds but there are always a couple of vegetative buds. On the older wood the flower buds will either fallen of after flowering or are non productive, If you cut the top off like I suggest then some of the vegetative buds will burst into growth after about 10 to 14 days.you will then need to select the best shoot from each of 4 to 6 "Knobby lumps" and later when you are satisfied with the type of limb (size & shape) you can if you wish remove 2 more limbs because you only need a maximum of 4 limbs to make a nicely shaped tree.
I hope this is of some help to you and you can follow my descriptions.
Your pruning seal spray sounds like the right stuff for protecting the pruning cuts.
The photo shows the "Knobby bumps" I refer to. they start just below the fruit and are spaced about an inch apart down that limb. Don't worry if yours are closer together the spacing is dependant on the rate of growth.
Brian
With your Osmanthus I would be inclined to prune the curved branch off totally and make the thicker stem the basis for the framework of your new plant. If you want a small tree then treat much the same as your Apricot and if you want a bushy shrub then shorten the bent limb back to the first bend and shorten the thicker one back to the same height.
Brian
