I will be receiving my Enthusiast Greenhouse tomorrow according to UPS tracking info. I was just reading another thread and from it I went to Harbour Frieght to look at heat mats. What do I see? A much LARGER greenhouse for about $400.00 less than I paid. I am sick.
Here is the pic of the one at Harbour...
Does anyone know the quality of the products at Harbour? Did I make a huge mistake?
Here is a pic of the Enthusiast.
It looks like a completely different kind of plastic. The cheaper one might even be covered with a film, whereas the more expensive one has actual hard panels.
What I know about Harbor Freight is that their quality isn't so good.
I wouldn't worry about it at all. The enthisiast green house looks very nice.
Mary
Be carefull with the harbor freight greenhouse. My neighbors got two of them. They are much smaller than the one you show. They were both cheaply made. The first one they got was missing a bunch of parts. We got a strong wind last spring and one of the two is now a twisted pile of aluminum. They had already made some modifications to the second one, and it weathered the storm okay.
It has always been my experience that you get what you pay for, and I personally would much rather have a smaller greenhouse that is better made and lasts longer than a larger one that is cheap and falls apart at the first stiff wind.
I think you did the right thing!
I can't really tell from the picture for sure, 2Busy, but the picture sure looks like the 6'x8' greenhouse I've got! Got it from Costco. Use it as an overflow GH, and it works just fine. It's got clear plastic, semi rigid panels, with no UV protection. In spite of the comments I've read about the Harbor Freight unit, I think you bought the right one as your main GH.
I've heard nothing but bad press about Harbor Freight, it might be cheaper, but so it the quality.
I'm thinking about getting the Enthusiast Greenhouse as well, I hear the HF one is flimsy.
The Enthusiast Greenhouse is not well insulated, I know that but it's VERY nice!
Congrats and make sure we see photos!
Please!
The picture you have of the HF greenhouse is VERY misleading. We just put up an 8 x 6 HF greenhouse and I love it. However, it does flex, so if you live in an area with very high winds, it might not be the thing to have. It does have double wall polycarbonate panels, which I like. We just had some pretty good storms go through here and didn't notice any problems.
I'm sure you will be happy with what you have, 2busy. I prefer the shape of yours, for one thing. The HF is no bigger, so you DIDN'T make a huge mistake.
Have fun!
Kathleen
BTW, DH is a mechanical engineer, and he thought the design was fine. Obviously, you don't get primo materials at that price!
This message was edited Jan 29, 2008 4:19 PM
Well, I'm so glad to hear all of the reports. And, to boot, when I got home from work tonight UPS had brought it to me a day early!!! My husband is looking at the plans now to put it up.
I'm excited again. Thanks.
Your excitement is only just beginning, 2busy!!! It's a "whole new world"!
I drove stakes into the ground to anchor my HF GH and it has not moved a bit. I'm happy with it and wish I had room for the larger one now.
If you expect the HFGH to sit there without anchors, that would be a bit much to expect.
I did expect my Lowes gazebo to stay put and it wound up a mound of twisted metal. We even used more, longer stakes & it still blew away.
2busygardening, don't know if its too late but I have several large greenhouses that I built from PVC in my backyard (14x48,14x32,14x16), all are very structral sound and of good quality, and the best part, very inexpensive! I can show you pics and ways to build it if you're interested!
Dear mustangman - I would for sure like to know how to build one, and I'll bet I'm not alone. Please share!
Mustangman, PLEASE do share your info and experience! I'm drooling here at the thought of an affordable green house my husband and I could build!
Mustangman I am getting ready to build a PVC GH, please post yours with tips. I want lots of input before I start.
Oooh, me too! I wanna know...
Okay no problem, I will put together some diagrams along with real pictures of my greenhouses, I built the14x48 for less than $500! I'll have them all posted tonight.
WOW!!! yes, it's too late, but this one is very small. I would love to build a big one as well.
Okay, I am going to give the list of tools and materials needed to build this greenhouse. This plan is for a 12x32 foot greenhouse that is approximately 6 feet tall at the ridge if built correctly.If you build it wider however the height will decrease, and your back will hate you for it! Unfortunately I had to build my shorter and wider due to subdivision restrictions (Homeowners Association!)
Tools:
Hand Drill (With Screwdriver Head)
Screw Bits (Multiple Sizes)
Electric/Hand Stapler (For T50 Commercial Staples)
Post Hole Digger
Miter Saw
Materials:
(2) 2x6 12 Feet Long = Approx $19.94
(4) 2x6 16 Feet Long = Approx $47.98
(2) 4x4 10 Feet Long = Approx $19.94
(2) 2x4 16 Feet Long = Approx $17.94
(4) Bags 80lb Concrete = Approx $13.96
(34) Sch 40 3/4" PVC 10 Feet Long = Approx $106.76
(15) Sch 40 3/4" PVC Cross Fittings = $6.75
(2) Sch 40 3/4" PVC T Fittings = $0.90
(3) 3/4 Inch Electrical Conduit 10 Feet Long = $7.94
(1) Bottle PVC Cement (Small Size) = $3.97
(1) 20x100 Roll 6 Mill Clear Plastic = $49.97
(20) Bags Cheap Mulch = $39.40
(512 Sq Ft) Weed Block Fabric = $49.97
(1) Box of 1 1/2" Galvanized Steel Screws = $4.97
(1) Box of 3 1/2" Galvanized Steel Screws = $4.97
(2) Bag of 25 Electrical Conduit Straps = $5.94
(4) Simpson Strong Tie Corner Straps for Sidewalls = $3.88
(1) Box of T50 Staples = $4.97
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Approx Total: $416.09
The next post will have instructions for assembly.
Okay first things first, you need to do some prep work prior to assembly. Weed eat all the weeds/grass in the area where your greenhouse is going to be located. Once you have all of these out of the way you may use Round Up to kill any persistent weeds/grass (I prefer NOT to use this in a potential greenhouse area). You need to measure out where your holes will be located (every 8 feet). Mark where holes need to be dug, and ensure they are straight as this will make the process difficult in the upcoming steps (string is helpful for this). Time for fun, go ahead and dig all of the holes approximately 15" deep and regular post hole width wide (8-10" or so). Once you have all the holes dug, then the hardest work is over, thank god. Go ahead and grab your miter saw and cut the 4x4 lumber into 2 foot long sections (this should leave you with 10 sections total). Remember, measure twice, cut once, I've made this mistake one too many times! Bring those sections along with your concrete bags to the holes. Go ahead and set all your posts in the holes and ensure they are sticking out of the hole by AT LEAST 6", dry set them meaning go ahead and pour the DRY concrete in the holes up to the top. Once everything looks nice straight and even, go ahead and grab the hose and spray the concrete multiple times over a half hour to ensure all of it becomes saturated. The moisture in the ground will cause the bottom half to get wet, do not worry about pre-mixing the concrete. The concrete has to set for 24 hours prior to any assembly. That same night you need to pre-cut your ridge beam which is the 3/4" Electrical Conduit PVC (should be grey). The sections need to be cut into 22 1/2" sections, this is because the ribs of the greenhouse will be 24" apart, the 1 1/2 is made up by the fittings. Once you have made all the cuts you then need to assemble the ridge on the side of where the greenhouse will be (this will ensure you don't have to carry a 32 foot long ridge that can break!) The end fittings should be the T fittings, and all of the other fittings should be the cross fittings. If you are nervous about this, go ahead and dry fit all the connections and measure prior to using PVC cement. Once it is good, go back and cement all the joints together and ensure the fittings are all laying flat, if they are crooked from each other you will have a problem. Let this ridge dry over night. The electrical conduit brackets need to be screwed every 24" on the 2x6 railing, two per every 24", view the photo below for exact setup. When installing these, ensure you do not screw them all the way down as you will not be able to get the PVC in place, leave them VERY loose. Use 1 1/2" screws for secure these brackets. Once all of the above steps are complete you are ready for assembly! Get ready, this hole part goes pretty quick.
Now, go ahead and attach your 2x6 rails to the outside of the 4x4 posts you have set. Attach the rails using 3 1/2" galvanized steel screws, three per connection.I forgot to mention, the metal conduit brackets only go on the 16' long 2x6 pieces, NOT the 12 foot pieces on the sidewalls. Once all the rails are in place go ahead and start stapling your weed block from side to side (long ways) to the ends of the railing on the inside of the greenhouse. Once all the fabric is down, bring in your mulch to hold it down and prevent weeds from growing upward. This also ensure your feet will not be muddy. Make sure you overlap your fabric by 12". Once you have the weed block and mulch in place, you are ready to install the PVC ribs (if you do this before the mulch it will be a pain!) Go and attach all of your 10 foot long PVC pipes inside the brackets and secure them tightly to the 2x6 wood. Make sure all PVC pipes are aligned at the bottom (use the bottom of the 2x6 as a reference point). If your 4x4's are sticking up above the 2x6, this is okay, it will NOT be a problem. Once all of your ribs are in place and secured, you are ready to attach the ridge, this is going to required two people. I recommend starting at one end and working your way to the other. Make sure the second person holds the ridge up while the other person cements the PVC pipes into the cross and t fittings. As you work your way down the line you will see the greenhouse start to take shape. Make sure you push hard on the PVC pipes into the fitting to ensure a TIGHT fit. Once this is done, you are ready to build the side walls.
The side walls are a little more tricky due to the angles that are going to be cut. View the photo below to see how I rigged mine up lol. Rough measure and then make 45 degree cuts, this should be close. Make sure the brackets are screwed from each wood piece, and make sure you drill through the top of the PVC and put a screw downward into the wood, this connects the PVC and wood together and makes it strong. You'll have to refine this area on your own, some people don't even put sidewalls in.
Maybe a little late to comment on HFGH, but it is widely felt/known that both the 6x8 and the 10x12 HFGH require modifications beyond anchoring to enable them to withstand winds and other weather. These modifications are easily found on the internet.
Okay, now that the majority of the work is completely, all that is left to do is add your plastic. Now, I add two layers on my greenhouses for two reasons, it retains more heat when I use my heaters at night, and two it reduces the intensity of the light coming through the plastic (I grow seedlings which are very sensitive to bright light). You will have to determine what is best for you. Now the plastic goes on easy, pre-cut it to a 44 foot length (it is already 20 feet wide, leave it this size). Pull the plastic over the PVC all the way down, ensure it is straight on both sides. Now enjoy stapling every couple inches along the bottom where the 2x6 rail is present. I fold the plastic over two or three times to ensure it does not tear. Staple the sidewalls as well. Next thing you know, you have a greenhouse. You can create a door easily by stapling a new piece of plastic over the opening you create and hold the bottom of it down with a left over 2x4. Hope this is detailed enough, send me any questions if you have any! I will attach a lot more pictures now.
Picture below is a larger greenhouse not yet completed, missing mulch and weed block (I installed temp shade cloth on this one instead
2x6 Meeting at a 4x4 post, PVC rib visible with electrical conduit brackets. My greenhouses have already sustained winds up to 60MPH with no damage!
4x4 Post in concrete with 2x6 rail. See how the extra 4x4 over the 2x6 is not a problem.
PVC connections at the ridge joint - cross fitting used
Multiple ribs and 4x4 posts seen
Mulch used in my greenhouses to hold down weed block and prevent muddy feet
Here is some connections for my doorway and sidewall
How to hold the sidewall connections to the 2x6 railing
Finished product! Look at all the happy plants! =)
Weed block that I use
dear mustangman,
You are a prince among gardners. We thank you , posting must have kept you up all night! Thanks for us all. Pam
Haha it took a while, but thats how I learned was from someone else who was patient with me! If you have any questions you know where to find me! :)
Mustang! Thank you, thank you! That was a kind, time consuming project and MUCH appreciated!
I think I may build a small version that can be taken down once we warm up in the spring. I just have to figure out a temporary staking system so it doesn't fly away.
I have an idea, you could do all the steps and just avoid two of them, do not cement any of the PVC joints together and when the concrete for the posts is still soft but not moveable pull out the 4x4, let the concrete dry and then you can remove and install 4x4 posts at will!
