The B. I. ramosissima Boliva looks a little succulent, is it, or does it just appear that way in the picture.
cotyledons of various species and varieties
Windy,
I. ramosissima does look like a succulent leaf, but it is really thin and papery. Had had ordered 100 (3 gal) pots and they have not arrived, I think they are on back order, so hopefully these guys will stop growing so fast.
Hi there Donna,
well, we finally got to our new location and now I know how you must feel, when you look at all the tropicals in FLA, CA and those other tropical places. Most of my cacti froze (two truck loads). I am at the point where I don't want any plants inside, but will have to start to like it, if I want some during the winter.
I think those tubers for I. Andersoni bit the dust too. It got too cold here during the last two months ( in the teens several nights).. will know better in April or May what has survived out there.
Hi Beth,
I tried coconut fiber in CA, but in with my cacti, never with mgs, it will be interesting to see how it does for you, please keep us posted. I tried regular cactus mix and they grow well in that, but that was in Southern CA and I did not have to worry about freezing temps, so they went outside.
I really swear by Jiffy's seedstarting mix (soil less mix).. that stuff is the best for me.
That's awful about losing all your cacti! I'm sure there are generous DG members that have lots of babies needing a new home. I also lost one of my I. Andersoni tubers which was the biggest. At least I still have one left...lol.
Show us some pictures of your new home.
:) Donna
one more, don't know if you can really see the house though. NO cactus around except my unpotted ones, some are still in boxes, I just don't have the energy to pot any up yet. Maybe when we get sunshine, the motivation will kick in. This is a photo that I took before we bought the house, backdoor view. These hedges are some type of evergreen bush the name escapes my memory right now.
There are hedges all over in the front, but, they were made with Chinese Elm. Those are so invasive, that we plan to take them all out.
Looks like you got alot of space to start fresh! What kind of fruit trees did you plant? Pecans...yummmmm.
:) Donna
Gourd, I have never been this intrigued by someone's project....fantastic.....where in the world did you ever order the seed....but then , you are sitting near NM State which has a great hort. dept......I went back school in horticulture there in '89 just totake some propagation courses, etc....
Now ilive back in Texas...was living in Ruidoso at the time...
Great photos..and thanks for posting the dome site.
Great thinking on the labeling too! Good inspiration for me to get the MG seeds going. Terrible weather here, and I'm waiting to vacate the greenhouse as I have a greenhouse light to use for the MG's..right now, last falls crops of things are setting under them.
Tell me, are you planning to keep the MG's potted?
Rj
Pullease dont give up on them because of temps. Just get ready for replanting in sprring... get ready for spring....... Frank
This message was edited Feb 16, 2007 4:13 PM
This message was edited Feb 17, 2007 11:31 PM
lol.....I'll have to remember this when it's very hot...still..I do hot much better.
Rj
Donna,
Yellow Delicious, Red Delicious, Jonathan apples, Granny Smith, Peach tree, 2 Bing Cherry, 2 Black Tartantian Cherry, 2 Plums two different kinds, Fuju Persimmon and the 10 pecan trees. I don't know if I can wait 7 years for some fruit..lol, may just have to buy some inbetween that time..lol..
bettygail, yes, I'm right near the NMSU and also they have their plant science research building not too far from me, about 3 miles. We drove by there, but the paved road ended, and the MUD began, so we did not chance getting stuck. Maybe later on I'll attempt a field trip out there. The seeds were given to me by a GOOD soul here on DG last year to grow out and good thing I did not start them in CA they would have had to stay behind when we moved..
rj,
thanks for the compliments.. yes I think they will stay in pots (3 gallon sized pots) they finally arrived, so now they can continue to grow. I had taken them off lights and out of the domes slowly. Now they are acclimated to my house..lol. will put them back under lights for another week or two then transplant. at one time in CA I had over 100 pots going of nothing but MGs, for two years in a row. They did well, but the heat there used to zap them. The nice thing about pots, you can move them around when you need to.
Hi Frank,
I'll try to hang in there with those cacti....and my tubers, some still look like they will make it (the Perrenial MGs) won't know till spring. One room in the house is full of cacti and other weird plants (giant squill, etc..) Thanks for the encouragement.
Group photo of the MGs (I think these are all I. nil)
Thanks-
Yes, I can see the advantage of pots. They like very well drained pots?
Rj
Yes, for the drainage, also they did very well in some of the 5 and 15 gallon post. I did not bring any of the pots with me (I could kick myself for that one)...
I've been thinking about putting two different mgs in each pot to save space, but do not know if anyone has done that or not and successfully kept them separate. I think with two separate trellises, maybe it is possible in a larger pot. Gonna try it with some of the more common mgs to see If it can be done without too much trouble. If it works, then the next batch will be done that way.
I am planting two kinds to a pot to simplify hybridizing. If you have no intentions about hybridizing, you might consider the purity of the specie, is worth maintaining. The day is already here when true specie seeds have to come out of old seed collections I have seen wild collected orchids sold for $25,000 in the black market because the specie orchid was collected wild, and because of Cites, not allowed to be available.... Years from now your specie seeds will be worth something if they have never been hybridized. Just a thought. Frank
What a great selection of fruit trees! You're making my mouth water...lol! I can't believe how much your plants have grown. I better hurry up and start some to!
:) Donna
Orchids cross inter-specifically relatively easy...Ipomoea very rarely produce true interspecific hybrids...
The known listing of documented interspecific hybrids in Ipomoea is about 25 grand total out of all the multiple hundreds of species in Ipomoea...most interspecific hybrids are in the batatas series...
The exception to the rule is Ipomoea cordatotriloba and Ipomoea lacunosa which cross interspecifically rather easily in the wild to produce Ipomoea x leucantha...
Ipomoea sloteri was produced in the lab by crossing Ipomoea coccinea with Ipomoea quamoclit...
scroll down to my comments
http://davesgarden.com/pf/go/662/index.html
The amount of colchicine needed to induce polyploidy in Ipomoea will very often kill the embryo or plant tissue or severely disenable most critical metabolic functions.....
TTY,...
Ron
Thank you Ron, that really narrows the field, and by the way, colchisine was in my arsenal
Nonetheless I am really a Columbus type, and I would like to preserve the species, and especially the seed sources that are still available.
My plan for 2007 is to try to hybridize toward a spotted or spatterpaint pigment pattern. But in my imagination, iff I ever get the seeds and the chemicals at the same time, I might try something with wreckless abandon.
I have managed to purchase about 5 species seeds this winter, and then they are questionable. In the next year, I will try to keep them pure and get some seeds. They all have beautiful foliage.
Question, are WRIGHTII, ANDERSONII, AND PALMATA all the same species?
Ther are so many synonyms , it keeps me wondering if I m buying the same seeds over and over.
How many synonyms does Digitata have????/ help Frank
This message was edited Feb 17, 2007 12:28 AM
This message was edited Feb 17, 2007 12:46 AM
This message was edited Feb 17, 2007 11:39 PM
Hey Frank - I'm interested to address your questions,but I think this particular thread of Antoinette's should stay devoted to her stated topic...
So,if you agree that protocol would indicate continuing your line of questions to a different thread more appropriate for continued exploration(s) e.g. your thread here
http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/693133/
I'll do what I can to pick it up and address your questions...Ok(?) good buddy...
TTY,...
Ron
Donna,
unfortunately, we have to wait probably a good 6 - 7 years for fruit... but my mouth is watering too.. oh, also got (2 of ea) three types of grapes to put in.
Frank: I have some Andersoni seeds and will photograph them for you, they are from my plant.
here is:
I. ramosissima Bolivia today.. fast little grower here
Bless your heart GOURD, you are a real sweetie. Frank
This message was edited Feb 18, 2007 12:05 AM
Hi Frank,
No problem, here is a photo from 2005 fresh seeds, will take another of the seeds now that they are OLDER..lol. just to see if there is a difference once they are aged. Hope they were what you bought.
But, it is a good idea that Ron had up there if you could post/start a new thread for seed ID, maybe someone will have photos of the other two you mentioned.
A.
I have a question??????? What is the difference between MG's and Cotyledons? I know it is crazy question, but I am curious. And hi again gourd. I just wanted to let you know that you got me into MG's you know. Those plants you gave me are growing them all over the place. lol I am really anxious to see what they are. And I am going to take them and put them all along my fence. So thank you for the start. I just bought a couple of new ones. They are Split Personality and Mini Bar Rose. Have you heard of these? And do I need to soak them before I plant them? Please.........someone let me know. lol
Thanks, Norma
NJBGardener -Norma,
Thanks for your question...
If you take a look at the photo here
http://pics.davesgarden.com/pics/Gourd_1171763541_825.jpg
The upper set of heart shaped leaves are the true leaves that are produced after and above the cotyledons visible below them...
The cotyledons are the embryonic leaves that are present in the seed and are the first 'leaves' to emerge..the embryonic leaves contain food reserves that help the new plant to grow in it's new environment...additionally the cotyledons have been found to often contain certain specialized growth substances and light sensors that are not present anywhere else in the plant...
The cotyledons of each species is varyingly different and helps to provide identifying taxanomic information...
Hope that is helpful to your question...
TTY,...
Ron
Ron,
Thank you sooooooo very much. At least I learned something today. But it does help to know these things.
Norma
Antoinette luv the color of the bluish leaves on your I. ramosissima Bolivia seedling.
:) Donna
Gourd,
How long do you keep your MG's in those cool domes? My first-ever MG's are just now beginning to poke out and I was not sure how long to leave them in their mini-green houses. We have a very dry climate here; I'm guessing you do too.
Joanne
Hi GrowJo,
I keep the seedlings in there until they sprout then get their first leaf, leave the edge open for about 1 hour a day to get some air in the dome. I have one dome that has a hole where it tore some up on top, so that lets the air in and also lets me mist them if they need more moisture. Slowly let them adjust to your climate. I mist alot, but it looks like they will not like it here.
Earlier I just turned on a air humidifier, hopefully that will help with the dry air here. I did not anticipate having to deal with that here. One of the plants (merremia vitifolia was just shiveling up from the dry air). I don't know that I can keep that many alive, but am trying.
Norma,
use your nailclipper, nailfile, or exacto knife to just barely scratch your seeds enough to see a little bit of white, then soak them in peroxide, water and if you have any type of fertilizer (fish emulsion, kelp, or superthrive in the water along with the peroxide) Lowes there in Mo Valley has the Superthrive, you just need a drop. I use very warm water too. Don't know the measurements because I have never measured the peroxide, probably three table spoons for one 8oz glass, a drop of superthrive, warm water and you are good to go. Soak them for at least four hours, I sometimes go overnight, but it is too risky sometimes they rott, or burst.
Donna, Thanks..
I. ramosissima is really growing and looks really good now, hopefully i can keep them alive, (have to have my head examined for growing so many in this climate)...
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