Does anyone here subscribe to Consumerreports.org? If so I would really *appreciate* it if you would please cut and paste the below from the site:
http://www.consumerreports.org/main/detailv2.jsp?CONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id=333271&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=3167&bmUID=1128789542912
Furnaces 7/03
maintenance 10/04
reliability 2/05
reliability 11/02
MJP Library is missing the Consumer Report issues that compare furnace models and unfortunately doesn't have a subscription to the above. :(
Thank you in advance!!!!
This message was edited Oct 8, 2005 11:47 AM
Subscription to Consumerreports.org?
Here's the first one!
Heating with gas
A guide to choosing furnace size, efficiency, and features.
Replacing or improving a furnace may not pay off as handsomely as it did during the energy crisis of the late 1970s. But it may deliver steady, modest savings. And efficient heating isn't only about money. Because today's furnaces burn less fuel to generate heat, they are less polluting than their predecessors. Some models also produce heat more continuously than older furnaces, increasing comfort.
Heat pumps that wring heat from the ground or from outdoor air (and reverse the process in summer, to act as an air conditioner) are the preferred way to heat in the South and Southwest, and oil furnaces have a niche in older homes, mostly in the Northeast. But the majority of new central-heating systems use a gas furnace, the focus of this report.
THE BASIC CHOICES
A CLEAN SWEEP? Duct-cleaning services typically promise to rid your heating system of bacteria or other harmful contaminants. Yet there's little evidence such cleaning is needed, except perhaps as part of an allergy-control program prescribed by a doctor.
If you do get the service, insist on a thorough job; in a pilot project, the Environmental Protection Agency found it took 16 to 30 worker-hours to clean the ducts of a typical home.
For more information, check the Environmental Protection Agency pamphlet "Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned?" at www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html.
How do most people go about buying a furnace? First, they contact contractors. To prepare this report, we did, too. More than 500 specialists in residential heating and air conditioning told us about their experiences in installing and maintaining heating equipment.
The two major manufacturers of gas furnaces are United Technology (Carrier, Bryant, Heil, Tempstar, and Comfortmaker brands) and Goodman (Janitrol and Amana). Other brands include Rheem (Ruud), American Standard (Trane), and Lennox (Armstrong). All offer furnaces in a range of capacities and efficiencies, and we think manufacturers generally deliver on those specifications. Each brand offers a generally similar array of key features.
The degree of similarity between manufacturers' offerings is one reason this report does not include Ratings of furnaces by brand. The most important steps in selecting a furnace, we think, are to ensure that the unit's specifications fit your needs, that it is bought from a contractor who installs it well, and that it's adequately maintained. Our survey results help confirm that view: When we asked about the most common reasons for service calls for furnaces, about twice as many contractors we surveyed cited human error--inadequate maintenance, for example, or improper installation--as cited defective equipment.
REPLACE OR REPAIR?
If your furnace falters or fails, a few simple procedures may save you the cost and trouble of seeking professional help:
• If you're getting low airflow, check the air filter on the furnace; a clogged filter could cut airflow to a trickle.
• See if there are loose wires or a malfunction in the thermostat. For an electronic thermostat that runs on batteries, try changing them.
• Are fuses burned out or circuit breakers tripped? If so, power may have been cut to the fan or circuit board.
If those steps don't work, call a heating contractor. Despite the improved efficiency of most new furnaces, it's generally more cost-effective to repair a furnace than to replace it. However, if a key component such as the heat exchanger or control module fails, you're probably better off replacing the furnace, especially if the unit is more than about 15 years old (furnaces typically last an average of 15 to 18 years).
HOW LARGE A FURNACE?
When it comes to furnaces, size counts--a lot. A furnace that's too small won't keep the house comfortable during extreme cold. Partly to avoid that possibility, contractors sometimes sell furnaces that are too large for the home they're installed in. Cost is only one of the problems with such a unit. Compared with a correctly sized furnace, a furnace that's too large will cycle on and off more frequently. That puts more wear on its components, wastes energy, and may cause the temperature to vary uncomfortably. Also, upgrading to a larger furnace may require the installation of bigger ducts to accommodate the increased airflow.
To be sure of correct sizing, choose a contractor who agrees to take the time to calculate heating needs using an industry-standard calculation, such as found in the Air Conditioning Contractors of America's Manual J. Such calculations take into account the climate, along with the house's size, design, and construction.
WEIGHING EFFICIENCY
The more efficient a furnace, obviously, the lower your energy bill for heating. Calculating a furnace's energy costs requires considering both the gas it burns and the electricity it consumes to run its blowers and controls.
How efficiently a furnace converts gas into heating energy is reflected in its annual fuel-utilization-efficiency (AFUE) rating, which is measured as a percentage. The higher that percentage, the more heat the furnace can wring from each therm of gas--and the lower the environmental impact of its emissions.
Furnaces have generally become more energy-efficient over the years. A typical gas furnace made in the early 1980s has an AFUE of about 65 percent. Today, the lowest efficiency allowed by law for new gas furnaces is 78 percent, and the most efficient models have an AFUE of about 97 percent--or near-total efficiency.
The price of a furnace generally rises in step with its fuel efficiency. A furnace with a 90 percent AFUE can cost about $1,000 more than a similarly sized unit with an 80 percent AFUE. However, that additional cost can generally be recouped in lower fuel bills over the lifetime of the furnace. Just how quickly the investment is recovered, though, depends on more than the difference in AFUE between the two units; the electrical bills to run two furnaces with different AFUEs can differ significantly. Payback times will also be affected by the climate where you live, how well your home retains heat, and the rates you pay for gas and electricity.
VENTING AND REPAIRS
You may also need to consider your home's vents and chimneys when you are purchasing a new furnace. Replacing a low-efficiency furnace with one that has an AFUE of 90 percent or more will require installing a vent that meets the special needs of a high-efficiency furnace. Furthermore, if other appliances (a gas-fired water heater, for example) share a vent or chimney with the old furnace, they, too, may need new or modified venting. All this work can easily add hundreds of dollars to the installed cost of a new furnace.
Also, one-third of the contractors we surveyed said that the most efficient furnaces (those with an AFUE of about 90 percent or more) tend to need more repair than other models. We think that's partly because very high-efficiency furnaces tend to have more components that can break down and are more likely to use new designs that are not yet tried and true. (More than half of the contractors we surveyed also cited new furnace models as prone to need more repair.)
Many contractors also said that the lowest-efficiency furnaces--those with an AFUE of 78 percent--are more likely to require repair than others. These least-efficient furnaces may not be the best choice for any home.
CHOOSING EFFICIENCY
To help you decide on a level of efficiency for your new furnace, insist that the contractor select models in a range of efficiencies. Have the contractor calculate the annual estimated operating cost of each model you're considering, rather than simply estimate it. He can complete these calculations by plugging information on the unit's AFUE and electrical consumption, on local utility rates, and on characteristics of your home into one of several computer programs designed to make such estimates. Make sure the installation quotes also consider the cost of any changes to venting required by any appliances in the home.
Weigh the operating costs of the various furnaces against their price and features. Since more-efficient furnaces generate fewer emissions, environmental considerations may also weigh in your decision.
Given that most furnaces with an AFUE over 90 percent are quite expensive, they're likely to be economic only in regions where winters are especially harsh--including most of the Northeast and Midwest. Also, given the reliability indications for such models, it's wise to ask the contractor some additional questions about one you may be considering: Is the model fairly new (say, two years or less) and thus relatively untested? If it's an older model, has the contractor noticed any reliability problems with it?
CHOOSING THE CONTRACTOR
Most furnaces are sold through contractors who are usually trained to install and repair the brands they sell. The contractor typically helps you choose the right-size unit for your home and will install it (and usually service it, too).
In the end, it's the contractor who will make the biggest difference in how well the furnace replacement goes. Ask friends, co-workers, and your local gas utility for recommendations (some utilities install and maintain furnaces themselves). Check the yellow pages for additional names.
Get bids from at least three contractors, especially if you don't have a strong personal recommendation for one company. If state or local laws require one, make sure the contractor has a valid heating contractors' license, and ask for proof of insurance. Look for a contractor whose qualifications blend training, certification, and on-the-job experience. Ask if the technicians who will work on your home are certified to install a furnace or if they plan to get certification from programs such as North American Technician Excellence (NATE).
Last of all, be wary of bids that are considerably below the others; the contractor may be cutting corners in ways that compromise the system's effectiveness. Once you select a contractor, ask for references and check them. Then check for any complaints with the Better Business Bureau before signing a contract.
Plan on having your furnace replacement done in the off-season. You'll have more time to choose a contractor and negotiate a price. Contractors can be more flexible when they don't need to respond to a backlog of emergency no-heat calls.
Second part of number 1:
What makes a furnace fancy?
These features and extras are among those most often highlighted in product literature or sales pitches for furnaces. They are more likely to be found on higher-efficiency furnaces; indeed, some are standard features of such furnaces, as the descriptions below make clear. However, some manufacturers also offer them on premium versions of low-efficiency furnaces.
Variable-speed blowers. These can deliver air more slowly (and often more quietly) when less heat is needed. Heat can then be delivered more continuously, with fewer drafts or uncomfortable swings in temperature and airflow.
Variable heat output. Available on some furnaces that have variable blower speed, this feature can further increase efficiency and comfort by automatically varying the amount of heat the furnace delivers, usually between two levels. The furnace can then deliver heat more continuously than a fixed heat output allows.
Ignition systems. Fewer and fewer furnaces have a pilot light, a flame that burns continuously, awaiting the next command to ignite the burners. Furnaces with intermittent, direct spark, or hot-surface ignition do away with the constant pilot light in various ways. That increases efficiency and is usually reflected in the furnaces' high AFUE rating.
Longer warranties. Some manufacturers' basic (usually low-efficiency) models may have less generous warranties than their premium models.
Dual heat exchanger. Heat exchangers are the components that draw heat from the burned gas. To draw more heat from the air they burn, energy-efficient furnaces supplement the primary exchanger with a second exchanger. Because the exhaust gases in that second exchanger may yield an acidic condensate that can cause corrosion, the second exchanger is made of stainless steel, lined with plastic, or otherwise protected.
Sophisticated air filtration. Fitting a furnace with an electrostatic filter, which uses an electrical charge to help trap particles, or a high-efficiency particulate-arresting (HEPA) filter can reduce the amount of dust that is blown through the heating system. That may help people with asthma or other chronic lung diseases that might be aggravated by airborne particles. But there's little evidence that other people need such filtration (or duct-cleaning services; see "A Clean Sweep?" in the Main report). And an air cleaner can't prevent airborne particles from entering a home in the first place. Nor is it a substitute for limiting at their source those allergens that come from within the house, such as pet dander.
Zoned heating. This feature employs a number of thermostats, a sophisticated central controller, and a series of dampers that control airflow to deliver different amounts of heating or cooling to different parts of the home. The larger the home, as a rule, the more useful zoning is. That's especially true if sections of the home vary a lot in their heating or cooling requirements--because of wide variations in the number or type of windows, for example. However, contractors said that furnaces connected to zoned ductwork generally require more repair than those connected to regular ducting.
Maintenance....
Help your heating system keep you safe and warm this winter
A properly maintained heating system is likely to work better and last longer. It can also save your life: Malfunctioning systems increase the risk of carbon-monoxide (CO) poisoning and cause some 6,000 fires and $47 million in property damage each year, according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission.
The best time to check your system is before you turn it on. Simple steps include changing or cleaning furnace filters and dusting heat registers or baseboard radiators. Older systems might require blower-motor or water-pump lubrication. Replace batteries in digital thermostats and CO alarms and smoke alarms. Then hire a pro for an annual checkup. Here are the most crucial items to inspect:
all fuel-burning systems
Check the vent-connection pipes and chimney for leaky joints, holes, blockages, and other damage that can let CO into your home. Check gas and oil piping for leaks; fuel-oil systems typically require an annual heat-exchanger cleaning and oil-filter change. Also have the pro check that controls and thermostats are working properly.
forced-air systems (including heat pumps)
Check the furnace heat exchanger for cracks that can leak CO. Inspect ducts for leaks and reseal connections with mastic. Test airflow after sealing, and check combustion to see that the burner is working properly. Insulate ducts in unheated spaces with R-6 duct insulation; sealing and insulating duct systems can cut heating costs by 40 percent. For heat pumps, check for refrigerant leaks and see that the charge is correct. Also have the pro clean condenser coils and check the secondary heating elements, reversing valve, and defrost cycle (see our report on furnace repair history).
hot water systems
Check the pressure-relief valve and high-limit control; problems can cause pressure to rise high enough to damage the system. Check cold and hot system pressure to be sure that the fill valve, automatic air vents, and expansion tank are working properly. Also have the pro check boiler water pumps for leaks.
steam systems
Check steam vents and traps, which allow steam to travel quickly to the radiators without escaping. Skim water from the boiler’s water line to remove floating debris and maintain steaming efficiency. Test the low-water cutoff safety control and high-limit safety control. Also have the pro drain the float chamber for the low-water cutoff and fill valve to remove sediment that can cause a problem.
You have d-mail with the first reliability article in it.
The second liability report wasn't in the archive.....since it was 2002 it's probably out of date a bit anyway....
Good luck,
Marcia
(((Marcia)))) THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
My parents have to get a new furnace before winter sets in. I'll study and print off the above when I get home from work.
Please ignore the email I just sent you Marcia.......I looked at it before I saw this.
No problem - glad to help!
M.
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