Help! What is the definition of "standing water"?

Everglades, FL(Zone 10a)

I have alot of seedlings (mostly exotic fruit) that I want to plant in our newly acquired 38 acres in the Everglades. I have researched their needs and most of this stuff can't handle standing water. If we dig 2 feet we have water. Is standing water surface water or what the roots are touching?

I'm afraid to plant more than the bananas until I know!

Jackson, SC(Zone 8a)

i believe it qualifies as both. i would think the water underground is not good that it would cause rot rot. the water on top isnt good either as it hosts several diseases and can cause stem rot.

most times standing water is surface water on top of the ground. as i read the following i would say thats its surface water. as the roots of bananas are shallow rooted the then problem would be with surface water. if the roots are shallow then 2 feet down may or may not be a problem. bananas are rhizome ish type corms so water will rot them just like any rhizome.

me personally i would see how the ones you have planted fair first. just my opinion. well drained soil is required yet lots of water is required too.. give the time and see what happens. they are tricky to begin with. good luck Marie

Soil: Bananas will grow in most soils, but to thrive, they should be planted in a rich, well-drained soil. The best possible location would be above an abandoned compost heap. They prefer an acid soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. The banana is not tolerant of salty soils.

Irrigation: The large leaves of bananas use a great deal of water. Regular deep watering is an absolute necessity during warm weather. Do not let plants dry out, but do not overwater. Standing water, especially in cool weather, will cause root rot. Plants grown in dry summer areas such as Southern California need periodic deep waterings to help leach the soil of salts. Spread a thick layer of mulch on the soil to help conserve moisture and protect the shallow roots. Container grown plants should be closely watched to see that they do not dry out. An occasional deep watering to leach the soil is also helpful.

my source on this is : http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/banana.html

Seattle, WA(Zone 8b)

I would consider building some raised beds for your plants......get them off the ground and away from the 'standing' and subterranian water. An extra foot or two should do wonders.

Everglades, FL(Zone 10a)

I just lost my message some how! Oh well! We have planted "test trees" in the higher areas more for shade than the fruit. There isn't much room there tho.
We can't plant the exotic fruit goves until we have the $ to dig the tilapia ponds and use the fill to raise the elevation. I don't understand it- 40 years ago this was a tomato farm.

I was hoping that if the water was at least 12" underground we could work that successfully- it sounds alittle disappointing.

Seattle, WA(Zone 8b)

If it were 2 feet or better down you'd be safer....12 inches is just asking for trouble and disappointment I fear.

Carmel, NY(Zone 6b)

Good idea about the RAISED raised beds, RB!

Seattle, WA(Zone 8b)

Thanks....it's extra work, but can make all the difference in the world.

Everglades, FL(Zone 10a)

Raised beds it will be! Thanks guys!!!!

Jackson, SC(Zone 8a)

raised beds i should of thought of that. i am making some today. good luck with your trees.

Seattle, WA(Zone 8b)

You could also build up some berms....trees planted towards the top of the berm should also do well I would think.

Everglades, FL(Zone 10a)

What is a berm?

Seattle, WA(Zone 8b)

A large 'bump' / hill of dirt...................

http://davesgarden.com/terms/go/76/

This message was edited Oct 21, 2004 4:55 PM

Everglades, FL(Zone 10a)

Now that I know what a berm is, that's a definite!
I hope to dig a pond where the yard is a marsh. I was thinking that all the surrounding water would drain into it plus the dirt I got from digging could help elevate the surrounding area. The hubby reminded me that this is the Everglades and that I can dig forever and the water will keep spilling in from the other areas. My next thought then was to dig a ditch around the area that I want dry and use that dirt (mound) as a retaining wall! It would keep new water out. I guess that's a berm!? That is down the road like everything else- I need to get the $ to get a ditch digger. I sure with I could use the local talent from the prison down the road!

The ditch would cut across the property sort of making an island. I could then put a cute little bridge in, to cross over to the walking paths that we want to put in the woods.

Seattle, WA(Zone 8b)

Sounds good....we expect pictures you know :-)

Murfreesboro, TN(Zone 7a)

Keep in mind that when you plant trees and shrubs, they will help take up the excess groundwater through their vascular system. That's not to say you can drain the Everglades with a few trees, but...

Actually, the most notorious example that comes to mind are the Melaleuca (think "Tea Tree Oil") trees introduced into southern Florida for that express purpose. Of course, now we're figuring out that the plants are not just vigorous spreaders, but absolute thugs - and if you try to kill them, their stored seeds are disbursed. Seems like I read that they're trying to kill them slowly each year now. Sigh....

Everglades, FL(Zone 10a)

Good theory Terry! Right now I'm planting "wet friendly trees" I only have a few sea almonds but am trying to grow several batches of seeds. Maybe they will dry out the yard alittle. They are also beautiful shade trees and grow very fast if they have the water to do it.

Avocados seem to love the water but I am not sure if they will fruit in a wet environment.

Yes, Melaleuca have taken over down here. Not on our land yet, tho! They were used as wind screens for gardens but took over. Cut down one ya get 10 back!!!

If I have any luck, I would LOVE using banana trees as a wind screen! They can take over all they want!

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