Starting Seeds inside

Wynantskill, NY(Zone 5a)

Every year I start annual and perennial seeds indoors - usually in Feb., but this year I'm trying to start a little later to see if I can get my seedlings to be a little more hardy before trying to harden them off outside. I don't have a greenhouse so I just put them in a sunny window. I have used the domed flats which I now feel sometimes makes the stems of the small plants weak. This may seem like a crazy idea, but I just kind of think it may be the reason I lose some seedlings. I am trying to start Joe Pye weed, moon flower, cuphea ignea, purple coneflowers, hollyhocks, and various other annuals. I'd appreciate any advice from other people who have tried this. Thanks.

Lenexa, KS(Zone 6a)

Welcome to Daves!! You'll find lots of helpful resources here from the online tools to the members!

By putting your seedlings in a sunny window they are likely trying to stretch to get the sun they need and that's what is causing them to be spindly. If you were to use grow lights you have the ability to lower the lights just above the seedlings which makes for much stronger plants.

You might also need to pinch back in order to achieve a bushier plant than just a lanky, single stem. Really depends on the plant I suppose.

BTW....you might try posting in the Propagation thread. You might get more specific replies there.

Brenda

Benton, KY(Zone 7a)

first of all, welcome to DG! Haven't seen you around, so now's a good time for my welcome.

Next, langbr is right about the sunny window. there's just not enough light...been there done that.

I hang a fluorescent 'shop light' over my seed trays. I keep the lights about 3 inches off the tops of the leaves. This seems to be the best lighting for the money. You can use the fancy grow lights, but for a short time like starting seeds for a few weeks, the cheaper lights will be ok. The fancy lights have the full color spectrum while the shop lights don't. Using one warm and one cool type in the holder seems to help though.

Another thing...those plastic domes...they are meant for germination only. Prop them up with a pencil or something as soon as the plants start to germinate. At about 50% take the thing all the way off and leave it off. Those package covers are deceiving people by showing grown, flowering plants with those domes still over them.

hope this helps...and welcome again!

Wynantskill, NY(Zone 5a)

melody and langbr
Thanks for your help. I'll see if I can rig up a grow light to help me with the seedlings. I've planted six flats today so I have something to look forward to. It is great communicating with fellow gardeners!

Seward, AK(Zone 3b)

LGW728, welcome to Dave's from Alaska! Most all plants have to be started indoors here, and I start many flats in those domed flats each spring. Since I have so many plants going under lights, I keep the domes on them until I transplant the seedlings from the germination trays to the cell packs, or until they outgrow the domes! LOL!

I don't water from the bottom until the plants are starting their true leaves. I mist them daily with tepid water in a spray bottle, spraying inside the dome lid as well to let the water 'rain' down. Melody is right about the lights... I use fluorescents in PVC light racks, keeping them as close to the domes as possible. That way the seedlings don't get leggy.

Now, concerning your stem rotting problem. I'll bet you a dollar to a dimes worth of donuts that your seedlings are dampening off. When starting seeds indoors, you should use sterilized starter mix free of the organisms our outdoor soil can carry. You can buy starter mix at most garden stores.

If the domes, containers, and flat have be previously used, they will need to be sterilized in hot sudsy bleach water before you use them. At other DGers' suggestions, I've been using chamomile tea in my mister and when moistening the starter prior to planting. It is supposed to inhibit the dampening off problem, as well.

Keep in mind, we all start seeds differently, and any way that works for you is good.

Spokane, WA(Zone 5b)

Big welcome to you LGW728. You'll learn to love this place, the people, and even "expert" advice, not kidding.

Wanna know a secret I do, so I don't have to transplant right away?

I make sure, when germinating, that it's in a pot that will handle it, first of all, and second, make sure, after germinating that the soil is down into the pot 1/4 to 1/2 an inch, depending on diameter. Then, instead of transplanting, I must build it up with more soil and think that will help. I've watched these threads and have tried to absorb alot.

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

bump...

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