I was afraid to try this, but was sooooooo easy. I took the large cutting, cut where I knew for certain I would have a bud on each cutting. Stuck it half the thickness in soil, watered well, and left alone. I did put them right under the lights. I wish I'd cut smaller pieces, I think I'd have twice as many. But look how nice and straight she's going to grow!!
Just a suggestion, once shes a bit taller, try slowly covering those babies with dirt. If you do this correctly you can get the green new shoot to form roots. Cut diagonally into the soil at this point will give you a rooted green shoot 1-2 ft tall and the nodes still under the soil will produce more shoots and hence more plants.
Brugmansia
very cool! thanks, I would never have thought of doing a cutting this way, but she's going to be prettier than most of the vertical cuttings I do believe!!
Now, a question I've been wanting to ask. You know how when you plant tomatoes, you put most of the plant under the dirt to form better roots? I have some seedlings from Earl that are not standing up straight and I'm wondering if replanting them deeper would fix them?
Tig, I have an 8 inch pot with several "logs" I have done this way, they are so strong and healthy looking, thnka to Brugman's suggestion about a month ago. Sure saves space too.
tig, waiting on brugman's answer, but i think the answer is yes. they say to plant antique roses deeper, more stalk covered, to make more roots and the way brugs root i sure would think it wouldn't hurt.
You can replant them deeper. I have planted a seedling that was several feet tall in the ground about 4ft deep and later filled in the additional ft or so for a total of 5ft of burried Stem. I have also killed a few Brugmansia trying to experiment thus. As a general rule, I find
that planting my Brugmansia no more than twice than their original root base is recommended. If one adds dirt/peat gradually to the top of the hole or lets it fill in gradually over time this keeps the roots from dieing I find.
tiG - Thanks for the picture. This is another page that I printed - a lot of information here.
Tig,I'm gunna start calling you Paul Bunyon(lumber Jack,cutting logs).....never mind.....
Wow... never thought about this. I know about tomoatoes plant. I did it many time but this BRUGS. I am going to do it... and makes more BRUGS plants lol...
Mini, i think tomatoes are quite like brugs... don't forget to ring them with fertilizer....
I'm going out to the garage and cut some logs and try this again. Looks good Bonnie.
Eric, when you say to cut diagonally into the soil at this point, what exactly do you mean? I'm kind of an air head sometimes.
Shirley
Figured it out from another post you made Eric. Thanks.
This message was edited Friday, Jan 11th 1:55 PM
could you please enlighten me then about the places to cut, Brugie?? I have a hard time understanding unless am drawn a picture. LOL
Owen
PS: How do I get thru the winter with no brug cuttings?? Too cold to have them in the mail till about end of May! darn it anyway!
I have only tried to root one cutting lying on its side. It rotted! Did not cut it....did not know where.
This message was edited Friday, Jan 11th 2:39 PM
Tig,
that's what I did with the original logs that I got in a trade. I followed brugman's suggestion and I managed to get some 50 plants out of mine that way and I started with only 8 6"-7" logs. After they sprouted I covered the logs completely with soil and got some more sprouts, but I'm afraid to cut the logs into smaller pieces as some of them are only 2" long now.
I love this method instead of planting the cuttings vertically as this horizontal method gives you TONS of plants.
Joydie
Okay,
Here goes, I am editing this in hopes that I can make the above post a bit more intelligible and I apologize in advance for not being the most articulate of the bunch...
The above log cuttings....IF one were to cover the cut logs completly after the sprouts from the nodes had reached a height of say 7inches one would find that the green shoots themselves would form their own roots. Now, one would then simply need to take a cutting edge of some sort angled at a 45% degree angle or such to allow one to cut each one of these now rooted side shoots out of the soil. One can often find that the original cutting laid on its side and even parts of the shoots left attached to the original cuttings will form more shoots from their nodes and hence more plants? Is this still thoroughly confusing...?
This message was edited Saturday, Jan 12th 11:18 AM
Just wanted to bring this thread back to the top of this page in hopes that perhaps someone a bit more articulate than me might be able to state a bit more clearly what I mean. This is a very good method of propagating plants and I just don't want this very valuable method to go unnoted for my thoroughly inept attempts at explaining things.
Actually Eric, I love this method. Started this morning slowing adding soil around the log, I love the way they grow straight and tall with this. Wondering if this would in any way work with greenish (not totally new) cuttings?
btw, you explained it very well, or I couldn't have done it.
Tig,
This method does work with greenish cuttings as well. If they are extremely green I have found that the very small ones do best if they are completly covered in moist to almost dry soil for a few weeks. Believe it or not, they won't rot or grow if they are ultra tiny buried in that manner, but they will callous over. These can then be dug up and exposed to the air and started to root with direct exposure to the sun and a bit more water added...extremly small cuttings will often have stunted growth to no growth while the roots are forming. Larger green cuttings can simply be done in the same manner as the hardwood cuttings. For an example of ultr tiny...I think Arlene posted a picture of a Culebra I rooted on this forum somewhere that was fairly tinny. I also think she posted a picture of this same cutting when it was in bloom. Of course Arlene is a superb Brug grower in her own right and I wouldn't trust too many people with a cutting that small besides her.
am going to post a picture of my culebra and ask a question about making cuttings as it grows so different than others.
I'm starting three more logs in this manner. Hope they work, but may take a while as they were dormant to start with. I like this idea and to get more cuttings by doing it this way is a real plus. I have noticed that if I plant a cutting the regular way and let it root and send out a shoot, re-pot deeper, the new shoot get the roots and can be side pruned, thus letting the original cutting send up more shoots. Probably not as many as with the horizontal positioning of a log, but still works for me.
S.
Good idea Brugie. I have some I can do that with now.Thanks for the idea.
I just checked mine that I've dug in deeper and a couple of them have sent shoots up out of the soil. I have three shoots on S. White from Brugcrazy and three shoots on Versicolor Peach from Glory. Have several others in a deep bucket waiting to see what they are going to do for me. I like to try some different things once in a while, and this just happened to work a couple of times. Now, what do I do with all the extras? I'm running out of space and have seeds planted too. Come on spring!!
S.
One More Question?? Can I take a piece off a rooted vertical cutting and do this to it? I've already rooted the ones I had and wish I'd done them this way. What if I lay them down on their side and be sure I keep the rooted end covered with soil? I've still got so much to learn.
ok..let me try to bette explain how to do the log method.
horizontal log planting method
1. lay the woody cutting on its side...you will see where there are leaf nodes or leaves...
2. cut in between the leaf nodes so there is space on either side of a node.
3. lay the new cutings on soil with only half of them buried.
4. soak the soil well and add a little soil if necessary.
5. roots will form underneath of the soil and new green shoots will sprout from the leaf nodes that are exposed at the top
alternate method -planting logs vertical
1. insert logs into moisten potting soil and leave part of the vertical log above the soil.
2. green shoots may appear before the log actually roots so tug on vertical log to make sure it is rooted.
3. when log is well rooted and has new shoots coming up from below the soil, cover the entire top of the log that was originally left expsed above the soil.
4. new green growth will now sprout from the log that was previously exposed and roots will develop from the vertical log that was originally exposed above the ground. the vertical log will now have two sets of roots-the first set from the bottom of the log and the second set from the top of the log that was originally above the ground.
5. cut the log between the first set of roots and the second set of roots and you will now have 2 plants from the original verical log.
joydie
hope this helps...its what i did with both methods.
joydie1...........Now that is what I call a detailed easily understood explanation! I think it will be much appreciated by newbies, as well as those oldies of us who were still scratching our heads:) I never could understand why one has to plant the entire log and then cut on each side of nodes, rather than cut it into small pieces with one node on each piece initially.
Question..... Is it necessary to let the ends of a fresh hardwood cutting heal over before planting it in either vertical or horizonal fashion? I want to try some freshly cut hardwood cuttings containing only one node each (probably will be only an inch or so long) and plant them horizontal (log) style, but do not want to let them lie around for a few days to let the ends heal over......will this work or will they rot from both ends??
Am still wondering why Eric says to use a diagonal (45 degree) cut, rather than a straight up and down cut .... is there something I am missing? I know I am on the retarded side, but mmmmmm.
I am thinking, from an earlier posting by Eric...saying one can just prune the tree and run a lawn mower over the cuttings and then cover lightly with soil...that healing of fresh cuttings is not really necessary. He did not say to let the mowed cuttings lie and heal before covering with soil, so I am assuming that healing fresh cuttings prior to planting them is not necessary.
Owen
This message was edited Saturday, Jan 12th 6:30 PM
Owen...apparently jodie1 understood brugman the first time with good results, don't see why anyone else wouldn't. What am i missing, cake or beans?
This message was edited Saturday, Jan 12th 10:59 PM
This message was edited Monday, Jan 14th 9:41 PM
All I want is for everyone to understand these things as clearly as possible. If another can state it better I love to see it. Crested Chick and others have posted wonderful pics to help further everyones understandings. Lately this forum has started to turn a bit nasty and I don't think we should let this go on any further. Lets all try to breath the good life back into this forum.
Arlene.....sorry I am such an air head. I don't need any more brug cuttings from you either.....would not know what to do with them.
Maybe you are missing the fact that everyone thinks differently and have different levels of comprehension....cake or beans?? Or maybe you are just stubborn enough to not like to see constructive criticism leveled at anyone.....who knows:)
Owen
PS: I will not be posting in this forum anymore....so you guys can breathe easy now.
Owen
This message was edited Saturday, Jan 12th 6:45 PM
Owen,
please stay...lets not 'bite' at one another its not good. I guess I found his initial instructions easy as I've done lots of cuttings before and understand the importance of having leaf nodes as a cutting marker.
I made my cutings perpendicular and not on a 45 degree angle. I did not let the ends "heal" either before I potted them up...it isn't really necessary as they will heal under the soil.
I must be getting brug withdrawal as I keep looking at my plants to see if I can get more cuttings of them..LOL...now this is really bad.
Joydie, don't cut on them too much or you won't have any blooms till late. I think I saw where someone said they read that in the new brug book.
gee, I think a couple of people have been comparing notes. not nice.
This message was edited Monday, Jan 14th 9:35 PM
This message was edited Monday, Jan 14th 9:35 PM
This message was edited Monday, Jan 14th 9:36 PM
This message was edited Monday, Jan 14th 9:36 PM
Cala,
I'll try to CONTROL myself from taking more cuttings...gosh now that is really going to be difficult for me with all of my new found enthusiasm.
I'm going to try one of those graftings when my plants are bigger. I think its a great idea to have several differnt brugs blooming on the same root stock. You have great information when you post for Newbies like me.
Brugmansia,
You are the greatest!! I keep following all the postings and the information you provide. I've made lots of notes in my Gardening Journal so that I can have a quick reference for things regarding brugs.
Tig,
Thanks for posting the photo of the "logs", this really helps to show people who are visual and need to seed things instead of explanations...not everyone is "text" based in terms of understanding like I am so the pictures really help people who are "visual" to better see things.
Everyone,
You are a great bunch! I love to see the photos and can never get enough of them. Its nice to see what the different types of brugs including hybrid crosses so it gives a better understanding of what plants will look like when they bloom.
Liz and Brugnanny (the one who lives in Woodstock)
You two have a wicked sense of humour. It makes the Brug and Datura forum a great place to visit each day. I find myself checking the forum now several times a day to keep abreast of what is going on in this forum.
Tonny,
You are such a dear!! It's been DECADES since I've ever had to use any of my Botany terminology and I keep saying to myself..."gee I vaguely remember that" and then I go and bring myself up to date on the subject again. I'm trying to stay on my toes, but some days its hard for this old brain of mine to recoup that lost information from "way back when in my memory vaults". Sometimes I can't even remember the "combination to vault" and get the "access denied" LOL.
Joydie
hmmmmmm,
"comparing notes" ...not sure what the context is for that remark. but i just enjoy the forum and i think everyone is just great...i'm not one for any kind of conflict...it really does upset me.
Joydie
I think you guys are all great. And yes, its very true that Brugmansia cuttings seem to be very fickle depending on the species and cross. Guess they are sort of like people in many ways. Depending on the season, temperature, and such..each is different and each changes. So many brugmansia change colors and shades....one just has to get to know them.
glad to hear it joydie, cause I'm not one for conflict either. Now, let's all play with our babies.
ok, please, someone tell me where to go for the pictures tiG posted. I do much better visually. Thanks
at the top of this thread:) I just sawed between the nodes and stuck halfway in soil. Water, then let stay on the dry side. Every one I did like this has great growth on it. Didn't lose one.
Duh, I saw that, just didn't register. I did that too, and those grow so well. Will now begin to cover with soil and see what transpires. teehee
Tig, how do you post a pic on this or any other thread except photos???
