The amaryllis that are the first to bloom from the group buy are Rosita and Vera. Only one or two blooms at a time, but there have been two blooms before these and at least two to three that still have to open up. I was removing the spent blooms before I snapped the picture and the one in full bloom from Rosita fell off when I bumped it :(
Oh, and my two Aphrodite bulbs have huge fat buds and are starting to open up. They are the same white double that ssg and catmint posted - definitely not Aphrodite but gorgeous all the same.
This message was edited Dec 15, 2014 5:34 PM
Indoor Gardens March 2014 Mid Atlantic
Ooh, very pretty color on Rosita. It looks much darker than the pictures I see on line.
My Dancing Queen is now blooming, and it's definitely another Dancing Queen, which means the labels for Dancing Queen and Double Dreams were not mixed up with each other. I now have two Dancing Queens and no Double Dream.
The color is nice on the Rosita. I noticed that the stalks for both Rosita and Vera are short compared to the others I got. Funny, one of the tallest stalks so far is the miniature flowered Tinkerbell.
I think Rosita and Vera are both part of the newer series (name escapes me -- Hadaco maybe?) bred for stouter shorter stalks and big blooms... shouldn't need staking, which is a plus.
Hmm, I wonder who will end up with 2 Double Dream and no Dancing Queen? If you want a Double Dream, SSG, I'll swap with you. It's been such a favorite that even if I don't end up with one this year, I'm sure we'll order a bag of those another time.
Thanks, Jill! I'll wait and see if someone ends up with no Dancing Queen and wants to switch back.
I had to use a soap spray on some of my indoors plants today.
The orange and lemon trees have had a low level of pests that leave a sticky substance, although I'm not sure if they're aphids, scales, mealybugs or whiteflies. I'm assuming they're scales, but I haven't taken out the magnifying glass to check.
When the plants were outside for the summer I occasionally sprayed the leaves with fish emulsion, which seemed to control the pests. I think natural predators did a pretty good job, too, but the problem's gotten worse indoors. Today I used Dr. Bronner's peppermint soap and sprayed the leaves.
My two aeniums also got the same treatment today. They have been infested with small black pests. I had previously tried wiping them down with alcohol swabs, but I couldn't get rid of them all. Within a few hours of being sprayed, the aeoniums were totally free of the black dots.
I'm now a fan of Dr. Bronner's!
SS--
Any time you feel sticky leaves or the floor/table below--you DO have one of the
sucking insects on your plant.
You are correct. They can be either scale, mealybugs or Spider Mites.(??).
Not sure of White Flies???
The sticky stuff you feel is their poop. Plant juices have a lot of sugar in them.
The sucking insects can only digest so much of it. The rest is passed out (Poop)
and it drips down on whatever is below it.
Aphids are attracted to the sweet substance and settle in to dine on it.
This sticky stuff can cause black mold to form on the lower leaves as well.
Feeling your plant's leaves regularly to see it they are sticky will give you
the 1st sign that you have sucking insects on your plant.
Your table-top or floor can also be sticky. It kind of drips down...
Systemics may work, but it takes a few weeks.
Washing of ALL leaves and stems with water/alcohol/soap("Dawn" dish detergent)
will help a lot. Use a sponge and support the leaves with the palm of your hand
so as not to damage them. Repeat as needed.
Ideally--you would hose the plant off after X-# of hours. Don't know how long.
Not in this weather, though. Maybe in the shower?
Gita
I've had this low-level infection for a little while. I'm hoping the Dr. Bronner soap spray will do the trick. I first tried wiping down the leaves, but I couldn't get the sticky stuff off using just an alcohol wipe.
I took drastic measures with my lime tree, which has had a scale infestation for several years... not really an issue in summer, but in winter I can only knock it back with alcohol, soap spray, etc... When I brought it inside, I cut it back. All the way back. I left a few branch stubs, but went well below the thinner branches that scale might be present on. Then I sprayed it down with alcohol, gave it a drink with a little added fertilizer, and crossed my fingers.
There's no growth yet on the "main" trunk, but the biggest side branch has exploded with new, healthy growth. I'm very hopeful!
The systemics work very well, but I have a cat who likes to nibble plants, so I try to avoid them... and obviously you don't want to use them on a fruit tree.
cool, ssg, I would feel good about using Dr Bronner's. Ought to check my lemon closely about now, see if anything is developing..
Last week, I went to admire my beautiful blooms on the Hibiscus and discovered
it totally covered with Aphids!!! They were on every flower bud---on every leaf...all over..
Crazy! Where did they come from??? I do not have them on any other plants!
Sprayed it down well with a Hort. soap-based insecticide as well as water/alcohol/dish soap.
ALL gone! I keep looking--do not=t see any!
Whew! G.
Gita, try putting it into a garbage bag with a No-pest strip overnight. It will do the trick.
Oh, by the way our indoor plant area now includes an 8 and a half foot Frasier fir.
This message was edited Dec 17, 2014 10:58 AM
Ric--
Can you tell me what a "No Pest" strip is?
It is NOT a sticky card--right?
All is well so far! The attack made a few flower buds to drop--Oh, well...
G.
They are usually found in the pesticide aisle, even in the grocery. They are a 2x5x1/2" strip in a hanger, and are impregnated with Vapona, a very strong pesticide but relatively safe to handle in this form. If you use it in a confined space it just concentrates the effects. It's best to open them outside or a well vented area.
The package gives dire warnings. Well, says do not use in living spaces. But from what I hear, the warnings on modern pesticides are more driven by insurance companies than real science.
Last year I used one in my extended basement room and 'treated'the plants when they came in. Then used it rest of the winter in the shed. I at least delayed the spider mite onset.
I have to look for it at the HD.
You are NOT talking about a Fly Strip? The one you pull out
and hang on your ceiling, are you?
G.
Sally, kudos for reading the No Pest strip warning labels which are dire because organophosphates are dangerous for human use and contact with them should be careful and according to directions for maximum safety. I believe that 'what you have heard' about warning labels being there to protect the insurance companies is way off base and belies the import of many chemicals introduced into our life streams, many of which are only regulated by the industries who produce them and also write the regulations for same! Would you put a flea collar on Addy that was full of this pesticide which has 'voluntarily' been taken off the market?
Why would you disregard "not for use in living spaces" ? Your shed is not a living space agreed, but for me, even a back room in an extended basement with the door closed is. I would urge you to do your pest strip treatment of plants in the shed (or in a bag as Ric suggested) before bringing them to your living space and letting them air out outside and not inside, and washing hands, gloves , clothing, etc as you go along. If you decide to use them, don't cut corners on following the directions! The science behind them is extensive and pretty real.
Here is a link to a recent article on a CDC report about No Pest Strip injuries:
http://www.wired.com/2014/01/cdc-warning-misuse-pest-strips/
'Nerves communicate across gaps, or synapses, chemically. Organophosphates block transmitters, and overstimulate nerve fibers and muscles. Image: National Institute of Aging
DDVP kills insects so well because it is one of the last organophosphate pesticides still available for indoor use in the US. Organophosphates can be dangerous, and misuse can result in ending up on your back twitching like a dying roach.
Organophosphates kill bugs by preventing nerve cells from turning stimulating signals off. They block the enzyme acetylcholinesterase, which is present in all animal nervous systems. Overstimulating nerve cells this way leads to tremors, paralysis, and death. Fortunately, the amount of DVPP it takes to kill an insect is small compared to what it takes to cause symptoms in humans.
The critical safety element is how you use this pesticide. The CDC Report suggests that’s where the problem lies. Thirty-one cases were reported to The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) sentinel system of acute dichlorvos pest strip–related illness between 2000 and 2013. That might not seem like a lot, but in the words of the study lead author, Dr. Rebecca Tsai, “it’s definitely an underestimate of what is happening.” The sentinel system has just 12 participating U.S. states. Of that small subsample of states, only those cases reported to State Public Health Departments are known about by the CDC.
Twenty (65%) of the 31 cases involved using DDVP incorrectly and in violation of the instructions and safety labels. As someone who’s been trained to only use DDVP with eye protection, gloves, and a respirator if in an enclosed space, this is chilling to read:
“The majority of these illnesses resulted from use of the product in commonly occupied living areas (e.g., kitchens and bedrooms), in violation of label directions…. Contributing factors other than using strips in occupied areas included excessive application, placing strips in sealed bags to treat infested items, lack of skin protection (e.g., gloves or prompt skin washing), placing strips in closets and pantries, cutting and tearing strips into smaller pieces, and using a heater and fan to accelerate vapor dissemination from strips.”
'If it were up to me, I’d at least have something along the lines of “FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DON’T TOUCH THIS STUFF WITHOUT GLOVES” on the packaging. There should be a way to more clearly indicate that this compound has a track record of neurological damage and is a Group B2 probable human carcinogen.'
Thank you for educating us and providing your usual well researched post.
I only used it in the extended basement (no one was using the room , just storage) for a few days while the plants soaked. The room shuts off from the real basement with a door. I think the package said up to four hours a day of being in the room with it.
I may have misspoken about the danger of this particular pesticide.
This message was edited Dec 21, 2014 2:28 PM
Coleup said about the Ming Aralia
"Holly, I won't be surprised if one finds you sooner than later!
Yes, you were so right. I went out today to find a few terrarium plants and I just fell in love with this Variegated Ming Aralia. Didn't realize that it was the plant we had been talking about until I was headed home and it clicked that was the plant that Coleup was talking about. LOL
Oooooooooooo what a pretty one and you so deserve it! Great pic,too. How tall is it?
I hope you enjoy it for a good long time.
Not big, 12 in including the 4in pot it is in. She said they are a very slow grower. I would love to find a bell jar to grow it in. I just keep thinking it would make a perfect tree in a miniature garden
Very pretty!
My Oncidium is going to bloom in a few weeks, one spike. My queens tears has a bud but it seems like it's just waiting..
As well as being grown as an ornamental the Ming Aralia has been used in Eastern medicine for ages. I does require good light and should never be left to dry out. I had one I'd rescued for years and don't remember every having to up pot it. This variegated one Holly found is quite nice.
I took my elephant ear (Odora Alocasia?) outside and watered it a few days ago when it was mild. Now it is creating droplets of water on the leaf edges, even dripping.
They do that Sally, nothing wrong with it.
Today--the last flower opened on my Hibiscus. I see no more buds.
Now what?????
Do I let it grow or do I cut it back???? I need your input, PLEASE!
This Hibiscus has very thick, strong, slightly puckered, dark green leaves.
You can see it in the picture.
None of the other Hibiscus at the HD was like this one. It was meant for me
to buy it! Maybe, if I let it grow--it would become a small tree?
1--My Hib. in June--see the thick leaves?
2--This is last month
3-The last bloom--today--Dec. 28.
Here are pics of my amaryllis that's blooming. Edited to add this one is called 'Bolero'. This is the second stalk of blooms. My red pearl is on the way up and the cleaning crew at work left me an 'Apple Blossom' so I potted it up this weekend. It's a smaller bulb though so I think it will only get a single stalk.
This message was edited Dec 28, 2014 9:09 PM
Gita- from Al tapla
When I overwinter Hibs, I let them go almost completely dry and keep them in a cool, dim basement. I start watering on our 'last frost' date & repot EVERY YEAR just as they start leafing out. Repotting (not just potting up), which includes root pruning, is important to their long term vitality ... and NEVER use a bloom booster fertilizer on Hibiscus. Use a 3:1:2 ratio (Ratio is different than NPK %s. 24-8-16, 12-4-8, 9-3-6 are all 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers). Adding a little Dyna-Gro ProTeKt 0-0-3 is an excellent strategy, as well. The silicon in it strengthens the plant and compliments the K content of the 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers nicely.
Al
Read more: http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1342820/#ixzz3NFaa6eKn
Jeff--those blooms are spectacular!!!
Mine don't bloom until beg. of march. Right for my B-Day.
It is because i do not follow any regiment on what to do when.
Right now--they are all, totally dry and dormant, in my Shop. Resting....
Soon I will take a razor knife and cut the necks back level and lower.
Then, because I had such a successful blooming last year--I will take each one
out of their pots, shake/scrape off some of the old soil, and add fresh amended
soil mix all around. Water....and wait.....
Keep in mind--the biggest pot (5 bulbs) is well over 20 years old. Same bulbs.
Here is last years bloom...The BIG pot is on the left and in all the other pictures.
G.
Gita
This is the first I've attempted growing amaryllis. Hopefully I'll be able to keep them going and then bloom next year. I'm a little gray on the whole going into dormancy thing. But I'll follow the directions and see how it goes.
Hey Seq- give it plenty of food water and light over summer. Can be planted outside. I saw a whole community garden plot of them in full sun one year.
But I'm no good at properly timing the dormant and bloom thing.
Cool, thanks. I'm definitely going to bring them outdoors this summer. I'll leave them in full sun.
Jeff--and anyone else.....
Years ago--1996--I bought an amazingly informed booklet--kind of
a Calendar like--of "Jack Eden Garden Guide" full of step by step information
on everything and most commonly purchased or grown plants, lawn care,
Houseplants, Vegetables, Trees and Shrubs, etc...
Also--Day-by-day "to-do" every day of each month--in a calendar format.
I copied out the 2 pages of his "YEAR-ROUND AMARYLLIS CARE" for you.
Will attach it as links below--but you have to rotate it to read it. Or--print it out.
If you need his advice on anything else--or would like to look through it--
let me know--and I can bring it along to the seed swap.
Gita
Sweet thanks G
You are welcome, Jeff.
Now--please let me know if any of this information helped you.
He sure was (is??) a wise man--and knew EVERYTHING about
all aspects of gardening.
G.
I popped in to Lowes and could NOT resist the last pink Aglaonema for 5 bucks. Like
http://www.bhg.com/blogs/everydaygardeners/tag/aglaonema/
Three stems and looks quite healthy in four inch pot. I've been tempted a long time, today was Meant To Be.
That sounds good Sally.
I just love the line "Indoor plants of Steel". I should send this to our daughter Jen. She has a bit of a black thumb. She gets her house plants from us, and recycles them back to be revived. I guess resuscitated would be a better description.LOL
Haha!
