2014 Seed Starting, continuing from 2013

I ordered some fragrant Aquilegia from Chiltern's, I'm going to try half this method, half WS and see how they do. I got Green Apples from JL Hudson and it germinated well last year, but I'm worried because the plants were smallish, and we've had two serious cold spells. They're well-mulched and protected, but I may plant more just in case. Worst thing that'll happen, I'll give away some seedlings.

Evelyn....yes all under lights now and many things are already sprouting. Yeah!! So far I've started 125 things, mostly perenns., the Tomatos and a few Biennials. I've got 4 trays filled and as I take them out from under the Dome I will start a few other things til March when I start most of the annuals. So far as of this morning I have had 23 pots begin sprouting.

Celene...come on, which fragrant Aquilegia? Sweet Rainbows, Denver's Gold or another Chrysantha? Or might there now be New ones for us to get? LOL.

I'll let you know when my Aquilegias begin sprouting with my method...probably within a week tho. Looking at past records they've sprouted between 7-18 days, depending on variety. Most were approx 14 days. with no treatment other than warmth and lights. And some of my seed is 10 years old too. In fact many things I'll be using are some of my older seed to replenish my seed stash so I can share things that I haven't in the past because it's old... Ie, like the Ammi majus Rubra that I regrew so I could have fresh even tho the seed was more than 10yrs old and still germinated just fine. Also found some old seed of Cephalaria gigantea and alpina, so am trying both of those, fingers are crossed as I'ld love to have both blooming in the garden again, (it's one of those oddball plants from T&M when they use to carry more varieties... Celene can you check to see if Chiltern sells them ? Thanks, always thought about getting their catalog but haven't gotten around to it... Maybe would be too much eye candy..lol, I'm joking.

Newly started:Cephalaria alpina and gigantea; Lupine Red and Purple mix, Red; Verbascum phoenicium; Aquilegia Maggie May,;Lupine a 2 tone purple; Anthemis unk which tho; Dianthus X Loveliness Dark Rose Pink; Jasione; Rudbeckia Blk Eyed Susan; Dracocephalum imberbe; Ceratostigma plumbaginoides; Lupine Gallery white ; Malva sylvestris ssp Mauritiana Bibor Fehlo, Zebrinus; Virginia Bunch Flower (Melianthium); Dierama mix; Dianthus barbatus Bicolor, Salmon Pink, and Red; Rose Leontin Gervalse, Wild pink 'Kevin's Pink Rose' ; Anchusa carpensis "Blue Angel'; Salvia 'Coral Nymph'; Lillium phillipiense; Penstemon x mexicale 'Pike's Peak Purple', 'Red Rocks'; Rose old fashioned (? wish people would do a better job of labeling); Achilea ptarmica 'The Pearl Superior'; and Salvia Indigo Spires.

Kathy, do you know what your room temp is? I now have a thermometer under my dome, and the temp has been fluctuating in the 70's, usually around 75 during the day, the highest I saw was 78. It might be a little cooler at night. Maybe that's my problem with Aquilegia.

I'm very surprised, I thought so close to the glass it would be cooler, even though like most NYC apartments it's quite warm inside. The buildings control the heat, residents don't and it's way too hot in most. Our apartment is on an inner courtyard so there is no wind at all, and even in the super cold spell we kept a couple of windows cracked. They're usually more open than that. We actually have had all our radiators removed or turned off or we'd be miserable.

I can move some seeds closer to an open window, that might be better for Aquilegia in particular. My A Maggie Mae came from you and I still have some more so I can try again.

I misspoke, they are from Plant World. Aquilegia fragrans, and Aquilegia Fragrant Fantasy. The Green Apples, def. JL Hudson.

Will the Lilium phillipiense be hardy for you? I got gift seed with an order for those, and worried about hardiness. All lilies have to live in my front yard, so my dogs won't eat them accidentally, but I love the look of them.

Chiltern's does not have the Cephalaria, Seedaholic does have it, though.

This message was edited Jan 19, 2014 8:22 PM

The ebay seller Pase Seeds has them. I've ordered from them quite a few times, let me look through their prodigious selection and see if there's anything I want to tack on a pack for you. I wouldn't mind having one of those, but it looks like they're hard to germinate.

C. gigantea, sorry.

Not sure what the temp is in there, probably 70*s during the day with the lights on and night temps get into the lower 60*s. Give your Aquilegia some more time...don't give up on them yet.....

Will try to find more on the Lily p. I read somewhere last year it can bloom first year. Found another site that states 8-10 months from seed...so I'll do more research. Got in a trade from poisondartfrog so may try to contact her for more info.

Ok...am frustrated...lol. Spent all day typing my seed info into a new file on Word and now I can't get it on here, only accepts jpg type files...any ideas?

Thanks, I'm not that much warmer, maybe 5 degrees. Definitely not over 80.

Has anyone grown Prunella Grandiflora? It's another slow germinator. Swallowtail says 21-60 days, Clothier says to chill if no germination after 3-4 weeks at 68*. It hasn't been that long yet, but I'm going to start another batch and give it the freeze treatment, see if that speeds things up any.

Kathy, can you Copy and Paste the info directly into the message box? Go to Edit, Select All, Copy, then click where you want to put it and click on Edit, Paste.

If the Word document is formatted at all--tables, lists, etc. it may show up weird here. You can take a screen shot, paste it into a blank Word document, crop as needed, then right click and save as an image.

can anyone tell me if these can be winter sown Please ?
gypsophila panicula dbl baby breath
mexican hat
Nigella

Suzie....I've had my gypso p. actually do some reseeding in the garden because they were'nt deadheaded. So you could try direct sowing with some seed. Also Mexican hat here is wild, I took mature seed and sprinkled about the garden and now I'm getting a few plants here and there. I did sprinkled seed of Nigella out there this fall, fingers are crossed...

Remind me come spring and if you would like some more plants I'll see what I can come up with. Maybe do I need to send smaller plants than last year? If I remember they get a long tap root and some of it was broken.. Come spring let me know if those from last year made it, if not will look for smaller plants for ya.. If the larger one(s) made it I've got several big ones that are deffinately in the wrong spot and would be glad to share!!! This patch reached 10ft square by 4' tall last season.

I wintersowed Prunella and it germinated well.

Personally have grown both Ceph. alpina and gigantea, from seed I got at T&M back in the 90's. So some of my seed is old, But did get some in a trade a year ago and it didn't grow, so am hoping the older seed will sprout..and even will try some in the garden. I have a friend that has one in his garden, not sure which tho, anyway he gave me a baby from his garden, hope it makes it thru the winter and come spring I get a nice sized baby and some blooms.!

Evelyn....Have all my Asclepias sprouted now, all were started on 1/16, am giving germination dates for me using my method:
Asclepias incarnata Pink, 1/22
syriaca, 1/20
tuberosa, 1/20
variegata, 1/22
As of this morning I have 59 pots that have sprout out of 125, almost half in just 11 days. I check twice a day, and move any sprouted to another tray so I can keep track. Aquilegias should be any day now and will let you know when they do.

If there is any specific info on any of those I've already listed just ask. Will try to figure out how to get a spread sheet here or into my files at Dave's but til then ask and I'll share the info.

NOTE: I sent a d-mail to ADMIN to see if they can create some sort of a spreadsheet in our Diary or personal info area that we have the option to use for such info on seed starting. That way we could all use the same style and share amonst ourselves. Everyone else is welcomed to send them one also...maybe we can get something if they realize it would be much appreciated by those of us that grow from seed or those wanting to. Later....Kathy

And I started a thread on the DG forum asking about spreadsheets. My post also has a link to the Record Keeping thread. If enough of us ask, maybe something will,happen ;-)

Salvia Transylvanica started germinating already, 6 have good sprouts started. It's only been a couple of days since I took them out of the soak. :-)

Funny, last year I had no luck at all with it, and this year it's sooooo easy... Go figure...

I have years like that, too.

Celene said:
>> I am Zone 6. I think drainage was my problem, I have clay soil I've been amending for years.

My first raised bed wasn't even half built before I learned that I had to improve the drainage before I could improve the clay.

Now I either dig a slit trench to a lower spot, and then slope the floor of the bed down to the trench, or I make the raised beds entirely above grade. And "above grade" frustrates me, because I WANT to improve the soil and have roots going down deeper than they could before.

>> You can take a screen shot, paste it into a blank Word document, crop as needed, then right click and save as an image.

I also do that to get Tables into DG posts.

I didn't know that I could just right click and save as an image. After I got a cropped image in the Word doc, I would copy it to the Clipboard, then paste it into an empty JPG in MS Office. For some reason, that automatically saves it as a new image file.

I have been improving the soil with 6" of composted, shredded leaves and pine bark fines every year for the last 10 years or so. I added a bunch of sand and not enough organic material and got a real cementy effect the first year. Not so good, but lots of compost and rototiller action got me started in the right direction the next year.

How do you get an empty jpg?

TIA!

Hi all, I'm new to this forum :)
I started some tomato seeds on Wednesday, using peat pots (not to be confused w plugs) and filling them with seed starting mix, planting the seed, then covering it lightly with seed starting mix that I had sifted. I moistened them thoroughly with a mister then bottom watered to fully moisten the pots. I put the trays on top of my water heater (since I've yet to buy heat mats), and when checking on them yesterday, I noticed one of the little pots had a twig (no doubt from the unsifted mix) sticking out and was fuzzy with mold, fungus, something like that. What the heck! After only one day? Should I use peroxide? I'm so frustrated, I have 117 pots going now, and would seriously cry my eyes out if I had to start over :(

Thanks for letting me whine, hope someone has experience with this and can lead me in the right direction.

Becky ❁

I got a lot of that white stuff last year when I was using coir as a medium. By sifting the top layer, you may have removed peat, perlite, whatever else was mixed in and left mostly coir. I don't think it's a problem, especially since you have the complete mix underneath. I didn't like coir at all, found it too heavy and wet for good germination. Again, you shouldn't have a problem with a light layer on top, specially for tomatoes. IMO they come up no matter what:-)

But if you want to do something...

I always water with 10:1 water:peroxide, the drugstore kind (3%), not the stronger hair coloring kind (20% or more). The extra molecule of oxygen helps the plants a lot. There is a website devoted to its use:

http://www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.com/peroxide-garden.html

Also, a sprinkle of cinnamon on top helps prevent mold, fungus gnats, etc. This year I'm mixing it into the planting mix before I even moisten it.

This message was edited Mar 9, 2015 10:45 AM

I never had white fuzz, but I used to have a lot of damping off.

The second-most helpful thing that seemed to cure that for me was keeping the top layer of the mix drier than I used to, by bottom watering more than surface-spraying. That also minimizes over-watering, perched water and root rot.

I put a cotton flannel mat between my plastic plug cells or inserts, and the water-holding 1020 tray. That way, I could hold off on watering until the flannel mat was starting to dry out, indicating that the seedling mix at the bottom of each cell was starting to get dry.

I would water only a little at a time, directly onto the mat, until the mat was damp and stayed damp for a few minutes. I never have any standing water to make the mix soggy. There is a little water in the tray's grooves under the mat.

It is faster to water all at once (6 ounces? 4-8 oz, anyway), enough to get the mat really wet but no standing water. Then turn up a corner of the mat and use a turkey baster to remove some of the water in the groves. It helps to cut one cell or insert off to give you a corner to inspect, water, and suck water from.

Pfg - you know, I never even thought of that, sifting out the mix just seemed like it would make it easier to work with while covering the seeds, but I see where you're coming from. And I really do hope these babies come up *no matter what* lol. Funny that you mention the cinnamon, I've heard of people dipping their cuttings in cinnamon to prevent growth of mold, but didn't even think of it in regards to my seedling issue! I already dusted them, hope it works, and hope the 'root inhibiting' theory some have pertaining to cinnamon are just a rumor.. If not, I just murdered my babies! Someone here on DG recently told me, rather than wait for the right moment and waste any more time, might as well give it a shot now. You never know, might work, if not, lesson learned right? So here I am flying by the seat of my pants :)

Blomma - if the cinnamon doesn't work, that fungicide will be by next step! I'm finding that the peat pots are already getting a little mushy, and the soil within them isn't sopping wet either, just moist enough so that it still springs back when pressed lightly. I have a bunch of 20 cell flats, the type that you typically see pansies for sale in at the nursery. They were great for seed starting last year, but I was trying to conserve some space this time around and went with the peat pots instead. What type of container do you prefer for indoor seed starting? Do you add anything like super thrive to give them a jump start? And trust me, I would have rather kept them out of my utility closet, but I keep my house on the cooler side, 67-69 degrees F. during the winter. I thought maybe they wouldn't germinate at that low a temp and then have to deal with rotten seeds. You think they'd do okay at those lower temps? I have round two of my indoor starts coming up in the next few weeks and it would be so much easier to set them out somewhere else.

Okay sorry about the novel here folks, thanks again for the excellent advice. I'd be lost without it!

The MOST helpful thing that cured damping off for me was keeping the top layer of the mix very dry. I think that would prevent your fungus or mold (though yours MIGHT be caused by something organic in your mix, or some organic fertilizer, or humid stagnant air).

Sprinkle very coarse grit or Perlite on top, so the top layer dries out faster. I think that bark chips, shreds or small nuggets are better, but don't ask me why. I can tell how dry bark is from the color, maybe.

Then don't top-water, or do it seldom. Only the seed needs water, not the top layer of mix. If you can't recue the fungus, next year try pre-soking the seeds for hours or overnight in 1:32 peroxide, 1 oz of 3% H2O2 per quart of water, or 1.5 tsp per cup of water. If they sprout much faster once sown, you can give them cool dry air sooner and discourage mold.

I keep my top layer dry by making the whole mix drain much faster, hence it stays much better aerated.

Most people seem to like adding Perlite or grit to commercial peat-powder mixes , but since I read Al's or Tapla's "gritty mix" threads in container gardening, I have had a total bark fetish for all soil mixes.

Screen some unusually clean medium-size mulch made from evergreen bark. Pine, fir or balsam bark if anyone at the garden center has a clue.

Often "Bark nuggets" will be much cleaner and drier than "mulch", but maybe that's just the difference between Home Depot (mulch = filthy, soggy, fermenting logyard trash) and Lowes (fine bark nuggets were dry and clean and had little powder).

Or pay twice as much for really classy bark mulch at a pricey nursery. That's where I found an $8 bag of clean bark CHIPS and long shreds. 2 cubic feet. Loved it!

Screen them so that the part you use is somewhat bigger than coarse Perlite. The bark holds a little water internally, which Perlite does not. I think that sizes from 0.1" (say 2 mm, smaller than BBs) up to 4-5 mm (less than 1/4", say 3/16) are good for small cells. Elongated bark chips are better than spheres or cubes, but use what you have.

You can use bark that passes very easily through 1/4" hardware cloth, as long as you don't get much dust and powder and fine fibers with it. Better would be to use 1/8" hardware cloth to "de-dust" the bark. Or try to winnow or blow some of the dust away, to get a fast-draining amendment.

Most people will add a little bark or Perlite to a commercial mix. If your commercial mix has a lot of fine peat, or worst of all, peat powder, it's a losing battle. If you're stuck with a big bag of commercial mix that has little or no "loft", you would have to add 90% bark to 10% peat powder.

If the commercial mix has mostly long semi-coarse fibers and some air in it, you might get by with a 50-50 mix or 70-30 either way, depending on how "OPEN" the mix started out being.

Any powdery component like short peat fibers or fine sand or medium sand will just fill up the gaps between bark nuggets or Perlite pearls, defeating the goal of drainage and aeration.

Besides, at $3.50 to $4.25 for 2 cubic feet, bark is much cheaper than any seedling mix known to man! Use lots of relatively coarse bark, especially if you water often.

What I do now is screen my bark and see how much of the bark fines I can remove. If I have NO bark powder, and a decent potting mix, I START with my bark, and then ADD 10-20% commercial mix. I use the mix just for improved wicking and water retention.

Rick, great info. I've read Al's threads on container mixes also but was unable to track down the pine fines and turface nearby so gave up. Maybe I'll give it another go, since I have many many more plants this year in comparison to last..

And I have been only bottom watering since my initial spray to wet down the surface layer, but there isn't any batting between my pots and tray. No capillary or 'wicking' action, so maybe that explains my soggy bottom problem. Lol

Ok, off to read up a little more on these topics. Can never do too much research :D

I forgot the first thing I wanted to say!

If your sifting put the FINEST parts of the mix on top, that might be undesirable for big, vigorous seeds like tomatoes. They can push their way to the surface through fairly heavy or coarse mix.

A fine surface layer will hold a maximum amount of water and stay wetter longer. I started putting coarser bits on the surface so they would dry out fast and NOT constantly wick water up to meet the damping-off spores.

Anything dissolved in the water or soil mix will be wicked to the surface and deposited on the surface as it evaporates. Up there, it will provide nourishment to any mold spores that blow in on the air.

If you are starting tiny, dust-like seeds, you DO need a fine, smooth surface to keep the seeds from falling into the cracks of a coarse mix. I killed a whole tray of petunias that way (128 cells, 200-250 seeds. Sprinkle vermiculite on top of the coarse mix. I HOPE that vermiculite is more sterile than most mixes, or at least that it doesn't encourage mold like organic things do.

So far I haven't needed a fungicide.

StillPlays... Are all those cells planted with tomatoes? They really aren't very fussy at all. I think your biggest problem is going to be that tomatoes get big fast, and their roots are going to be bursting out of those little cells before you know it.

Ok, I'll spoil all your fun gang. LOL,. Almost all my Tomatoes are up using my method... 14 out of 18 varieties..... Started 1/14, started germinating 6 days later. I start with peat/peralite mix, sprinkle seeds and top with vermiculite. Surface spray with water to dampen the top only, spray 2X a day every day and also put a lid on them to keep the humidity in. My babies are looking good, no damping off. I start many seeds to a pot and tranfer them into individual pots when ready (or should say when I'm ready...lol.

Todays count is 125 pots,(each has different variety of goodies) and 75 have sprouted. And Pam the Dianthus armurensis is up along with most of the Platiesand Salvia.

Kathy - I am completely blown away by your seed starting ambitions! Maybe one day.. Sigh.. Lol! Your pics sure are motivating to me though!

Pfg - yes they are planted wih tomatoes. I had read that tomatoes benefit from at least one 'pot up' before transplanting out to the garden, suggesting that you start the seeds in small cells, pots, etc, then when 1 - 2 sets of true leaves are present, you pot them on to 4 inch deep pots. But then again, I got this info from google so who knows.. Bad idea? I welcome any and all advice :)

Worst thing that can happen is I kill them and learn what NOT to do next time. Not that I wouldn't cry if it came to that though! Lol

WOW Kathy-- Did you get good germination with the Dianthus amurensis? Mine was disappointing, I only have 4 good seedlings. Maybe they do better without all the torture? ;-)

Seriously, StillPlays, tomatoes are very forgiving, you'll see. You have nothing to worry about. And most of us do start clustered in a small-ish container, or, like you, single seed per plug, then move plants up. Some would rather start bigger and move up later. I am always trying to get the most mileage out of limited space so I start small. I use the Deno method (damp paper towel in a baggy until seeds begin to sprout) or cluster in one container instead of using plug trays. We all have our favorite ways of doing things. Some, like me, like to experiment a little with different methods, especially with new types of plants.

I'm not starting my tomatoes for a few weeks yet, just don't have the indoor space for them to get so big. In my zone they can't go outside before some time in May, and that's with frost protection, so if I start now they'd be huuuuuuge busy then. Also, I don't do beefsteaks at all. We don't get enough heat and sun for them, they get gross. And the cherries are sooooo good... There are farmstands all over the place with big open fields, no interference from mature trees like we have, so we can have as many big tomatoes as we want, as long as we remember to stop and pick them up, lol.

Linum and Salvia Transylvanica germinating quickly now after just a few days. All the Lupines and Platycodons are up, all except my double pink sport. Asclepias Tuberosa look fine, moved them into 2.5" pots, not because they needed it, but I had the time and space! after I set up flat #2.

I'm amazed at how sloooooow the Campanulas are! The C pyramidalis, started first, are still really little, and the C carpatica Clips series have been translucent threads for days now, only a couple showing any green. I think they're even slower than petunias. I found a commercial growers website that says C Clips takes 24 weeks to flower, that's 6 months. They also say in order to get 1 plant per cell to sow 8-10 seeds per plug. I got better germination than that, more like 6-8 from about 25 seeds, so maybe the soak-and-freeze helped.

Pic 1: The setup
Pic 2: Under the dome
Pic 3: Asclepias and Lupines

Ok good to know. Now do you do Deno to germ all seeds? A large percentage of mine are good candidates for winter sow, but it would be more convenient to do Deno rather than have flat after flat of seeds that have erratic germination or none at all. I just don't have that kind of real estate indoors. Not until the kids start growing up and moving out.. LOL (or they could stay home with me awhile after that, but I highly doubt they will..)

Did the asclepias require special treatment? I heard they can be fussy to germinate. For me, they will be winter sown.

I soaked the Asclepias for 48 hours, starting in hand-hot water. I refreshed the water after 24 hours. Then the Deno package went into the freezer for 24 hours. This is something I'm trying for the first time year, instead of weeks in the fridge, and it seems to be working well for most things that need stratification. I saw the first tiny radicals in 4 days, only 1 day after taking the package out of the freezer.

That was among the first group of seeds I tried that way. Since then, I've cut the soak time down to 24 hours, still generally with good results. For seeds that need more than one cycle of temp changes, I freeze a 2nd time after a few days of no germination.

For those that don't need a cold cycle, I just keep the packages on the windowsill, near but not on a heat mat.

I still have a stubborn few, though...

Hahahahaha. Kathy, I see your Asclepias germinated in 4 days too... Too funny.

Forgot to mention when I plant, I use Kathy's method of using vermiculite to cover all but the smallest seeds. For those, and the ones needing light to germinate, I put down a 1/8-1/4" layer of vermiculite and press the seeds into it... Did I get it right, Kathy? Lol...

This message was edited Mar 9, 2015 10:48 AM

This message was edited Mar 9, 2015 10:55 AM

Evelyn...I just love that rose too. I got it from someone who had brought me one in a 1 gallon years ago, dug from their garden. It's only a spring bloomer and I don't have a name for it. It does spread and I've tried getting it started from a few stems, some sucessful, some not so much... I do know I need to get a patch of it started here where I live, just have to decide where I want it since it will roam and spread a bit, tho not much in the way of a root system. (sorry, I planted it at my daughter's house and is going crazy there.) Oh, ya, it smells good too!

Pam...out of 15 seeds of the Dianthus a. I've got 5 sprouted so far, fingers are crossed they aren't done yet. Yup just a sprinkling of vermiculite, not even sure if I go 1/4" deep except for big seed. Nothing on the Cephalarias yet, (come on, please, please, please!).

Up to 82 pots as of this morning. (of 125), sprouted. I'm starting another tray now to fill in those I'm taking out as sprouts appear. I keep them under a dome for several days yet and when I feel like they are strong enough I then move them to an open air tray. Will try to get some pix this week, haven't taken any this year yet so I guess it's time.. So far NO special treatment on any...yet. Just lights and warmth, oh ya LOVE..lol. Got my first Aquilegia (Winky Blue) up this morning, started 1/14, sprouted 1/26, 12 days. and no frige.. Many more are just about ready, seeds are split and ready to send out that first root.

Snow on the way here for later today and overnight, yeah!!! Ok, off to check out a few things and then to seeding.... Later all, have a good day! Kathy

A. Maggie Mae is 3 times the size of the unused seeds, should get going soon. I'd like to plant her in a pot or cell-packs, but I'm out of room in my little propagator, too many slowpokes.

I made a tent of Saran Wrap temporarily for the Salvia Transylvanica Blue Cloud, Linum Saphyr Blue, and Campanula White and Blue Clips that are emerging now, and ordered another kit from Gardener's Supply. It's a little pricey, but the one from them I have is sturdier than the typical stuff and has held up well. I use it all season, so it's worth it. The new model has a higher dome, 7 1/2," so I'll be able to use it more easily for cuttings later.

I forgot to bring extra standard plastic domes this fall when we closed the house, and the propagator isn't all that big. I've been staggering planting every few days, thinking they would come up in batches and be replaced under the dome by the next set of sprouts. Usually only sprouted seeds or those close to it get planted and are put in there until seedlings appear. This year, some of the room is taken up by some stubborn seeds I thought might do better planted, and I don't want to give up on them yet.

Another thing I forgot to bring is my favorite extra deep 2.5" pots. I have a couple dozen, not nearly enough for the whole season. The propagator comes with a deep root cluster of 15 cells, 2 3/4" x 3 1/2." There is also a tray with smaller cells, 2" x 2 5/8," which should also be very usefull. The best part is, they're attached so won't tip over like the others do if I'm the least bit clumsy, lol.

It's so cold here I have both heat mats going (on thermostats), and I'm wearing a few extra layers myself ;-). And it's not letting up all week. I think we had only 1 or 2 days in the 30's before going back down to teens and single digits. Brrrrrrrr...

This message was edited Mar 9, 2015 10:55 AM