Need. To. Feed. Plants.
How exciting GQ that you are moving to a new place with some of your lovelies!!! Yay for fresh starts!!
Neck of the Woods CHAT Summer 2013
SSG
Did I give you a paper (Primer) on how to grow and care for Brugs? I usually do--if the
person is doing this for the first time.
The main thing i see "wrong" is that you did not grow it in "Pot-In-Pot.
The pot the brug is planted in gets dug 2/3 of the way into another (bigger) pot.
Similarly--you can dig the pot with the brug into a bed.
This pot has to have about 5 holes cut out in the bottom 1/3 of it to allow the roots of the Brug
to grow out through these.
When it is time to bring the Brug in--you dig up the pot and take that into a cool basement.
Yes! You will be severing all the roots that grew out those holes--NO harm!
Put a plastic grocery bag around the pot to keep the severed root tips from drying out.
Water VERY sparingly during the winter--not much light is needed either.
You are allowing the brug to take a long winter's snooze...All the leaves will drop, except the tips.
In late spring--weather permitting--take the brug out as is and put it in some shade for a week or so.
believe me--it will start growing new leaves within a few days!
Then move the pot to a bit better light--and then, finally, plant it again--pot-in-pot and put it in
some good light. Full evening sun is NOT required! Water profusely--as needed--and feed also.
SO? What did you do wrong? You planted it directly in a bed--and then dug it up (it was almost bare-root--right?)
and then put it in dry peat moss where it could not sustain itself.
ALL this was described in the Brugmansia care paper. If I did not give it to you--I am sorry.
If I did--and if you read it--all this was explained in the 2 pages.
Good luck the next time. I will, probably have cuttings again for next spring's Plant swap--but I am trying to
get away from growing out too many cuttings. Lack of space under the lights .
This past fall I took just 6--2 of each variety. One (The NOID pink) was never claimed--so I planted it in a big pot
and will find some good place for it. Same for one of the Purple/white Daturas.
SSG---Hope this helps. Unusual plants take a lot of "knowing" what, and how, to grow them.
What to do--and what NOT to do. I am always happy to help.
This is how my 3 brugs spend the winter. Gita
Gita!! Let's see a picture of those beauties in the ground.
You mean right now?????? Or--in some years past in their glory?
For now--glad to show you the status quo of the three of them...
.Lookie at the Dr. going Gung-Ho!
1--Dr. Seuss (in its new bed--YESSSSS!
2--Maya--same place as always
3--NOID Pink one--same place as well. Ignore the SEM--(Stupid Earth Machine)
Perfect!
Coleup I have good news and bad news about Mama Musa. Bad news is that Mama isn't showing any signs of growing good news is that there are 4 new pups growing right beside her.
I'm the opposite of Coleup when it comes to containers. I'm almost compulsive about getting them in the ground asap, unless they're annuals or houseplants. There were some very small plants from the swap that should have been potted up in larger containers first, but in the ground they went!
I think this is because I'm a Very Lazy Gardener when it comes to watering. All of my containers are in tapla's 5-1-1 mix (or a variation), so while the mixes drain well, they need regular watering.
Gita, I have a cutting of pink noid brug I got from another neighbor, so I'll try it again this year.
SS--
Do you want me to send you the "How To" I wrote? I can c/p it right here--and you can print it out.
OK?
************************************************************************************
Re Brugmansias-----(“Brugs” for short)...
Spring, Fall and Winter care….by Gita
I plant my Brugs Pot-in-Pot...By that I mean---get a black, or other cheap, plastic3-4gal. pot and cut 4-5-- 1" holes around the lower half of the pot (for the roots to grow out of--if they need to) and then sink THIS pot 2/3's of the way into a much bigger Patio pot, or in a flower bed--leaving the rest of the smaller pot sticking out above the soil level.
This provides the Brugs with the cooler temps the roots like---keeps them from drying out as quickly--and also keeps them from blowing over in windy storms. Still--I have had even the bigger pots of Brugs blow over if they were Pot-in-Pot above ground---like on a patio. Their leaves are very large and act as “parachutes”...BAM! Over they go!!!!
I put 2-3 bricks on top of the pot to try to counteract this...Works sometimes???? Sometimes NOT!
When it comes time to bring your Brugs in for the winter--lift the smaller pot out of the big pots--or the flowerbed-- YES! You will have to sever the roots that grew out those holes and trim off any remaining roots sticking out— NO HARM DONE!
Put a plastic bag around that pot for the winter--to keep the exposed roots from drying out--and haul the whole thing into your basement. Light is not necessary—but OK.
Unheated garages are not the greatest--unless you can run a small heater in there--just to keep the temps above freezing...Water just a tiny bit during this dormancy period.
IF your Brug has grown all wide and big during the Summer--you will have to prune it back--just try not to prune below the first "Y" of the stem...Brugs HAVE TO "Y" before they can bloom! Simple as that! A “Y” is where the stem splits in two—or “Y”,s.
You can also remove most of the leaves before bringing the plants in,
as they will fall off anyway. Leave the leaves on the stem-tips be!
Rooting cuttings taken from above the "Y" will guarantee sooner bloom the following year. Stem cuttings taken from below the 1st "Y" root just as well--but you will now have to wait until that stem cutting grows tall and “Y"s on it's own before expecting any blooms from your new Brug. Sometimes this won't be before October.
The trimmed stems can be cut up in 6"-7" pieces and rooted--right into a 5"-6"pot of fresh potting mix. You can use Rooting Hormone on the ends if you like...
Shove the cutting all the way to the bottom of the pot. Keep it barely moist for now.
I have found that stem cuttings root so much more easily--compared to tip cuttings.
The soft, new growths just do not root all that well. I have not had much luck.
In a matter of weeks--do the gentle tug test...There WILL be resistance...That means it has started to root in. Celebrate!
When new leaf-growth nubs start to appear--you will need to water a bit more regularly...Keep it just moist, though until leaves appear. Watch for wilting!
Let the plant tell you when...:o) Also a weak fertilizer might help here at this point...like--1/2 strength MG. The 7 drops to a quart kind--in the green bottle--for Houseplants...
In the SPRING--
When I bring my Brugs out from their dormancy --I keep them in shade for about a week...then in filtered light for a week--and then in the bright light they will be living in...By now--most of them are back to normal and growing already.
Usually--they don't even "blink"...just turn all green and march on...
About every 2-3 years--you will need to root-prune the root ball. Trust me--It will NOT hurt the plant!!!! Brugs are nearly indestructible!
To root-prune--pull out the Brug from the pot it has been growing in--get an old, sharp, kitchen knife---and just slice away. Cut off the outer part (rind) of the root ball--maybe 1"-2". Don't be shy! It won't hurt the Brug..
Cut off the same amount from the bottom of the root ball. Doing this will be VERY invigorating to the plant!
Re-pot in the same “holey” pot--adding fresh soil mix, with maybe some Osmacote
(slow release) type of a fertilizer mixed in, and fill back around the now smaller root-ball with the soil mix –do the bottom first--- then the edges and a top-dressing as well.
Water in well.
NOW-- You are set for a whole new Season...Not so hard!!!!
***Brugmansias like a bright, sunny spot, but need a bit of protection from the searing, afternoon sun.
Hope this helps all of you “newbie” Brug-growers. These plants are tough!
Feed them weekly and keep them watered. In hot weather—every day!
Literally—sometimes 2 gallons a day! If they wilt—they will come right back.
Later in the season—yellowing leaves are of no concern. This happens….
Just remove them.
***NOTE***Brugmansias are toxic if ingested!!!! Be safe!
Wash your hands after working with them!
The only thing you will need to look out for is Mites on the leaves.
This could happen overnight. Leaves will look mottled. A sure sign you have them.
Spray the whole plant with “Neem” or other insecticide that lists Mites, especially the undersides of the leaves and the new growth. Repeat as needed—every 2 weeks.
You can also use Systemic Granules (Espoma makes it), applied to the soil and watered in, which should help. Systemics are absorbed into the plants “system”, making all the juices toxic to sucking insects. It also kills any bugs that have crawled into the pot.
I would suggest you print this out and save it...for future reference.
Gita
I don't have any brugs, but I have some brug seeds. Actually, I have so many seeds from swaps and trades that I am at risk of being accused of being a seed hoarder. I'll deal with that problem later, I'm too busy packing things now. I have already shared lots of the seeds from my garden with friends and neighbors.
Do you try the pot within a pot method for any other plants? My largest dahlia tuber did better before I divided it. The largest piece has formed leaves, but the smaller parts are struggling. Some got soft so I cut them back, sprinkled them with comet and let them dry. I put the non sprouting parts back in fresh peat. I am potting them up when they start to form leaves. I am tempted to leave my dahlia tubers undivided in the future.
I am going to have lots of pots for the deck and patio of my new place. I am buying big plastic pots to move plants. (I also have plants in everything that will hold them). I plan to eventually use the pots for tropicals like canna, calla and dahlias. I don't lift the cannas. I keep them alive in the pots. They don't bloom in the winter inside, but the foilage looks exotic.
Tomorrow is another adventure at Wallyworld. I hope they have more blue and yellow big pots in stock (my colors). I hope the dollar store has gotten in more plastic waste baskets - they make good pots with holes drilled in the bottom. I have some things in plastic bags and pails. I change the water morning and night when I water. I am hoping to find more pots, but will end up moving some things in bags and tubs. Good thing I am moving soon and not going far.
Most of my friends don't understand the gardening thing. They are going to grumble about moving the plants - especially the climbing roses. And then there are the stepping stones and the painted stone plant labels.....Oh, no! I am a borderline rock hoarder also.
GQ: I hope you'll share photos of your new place -- it will be festive with the yellow and blue pots, and all the rocks...
What do you paint your stones with? How long does the writing last?
Gita, we have a plumeria (from New Orleans) that split into a Y (we call it our boomerang tree lol); it blooms nicely. I've never tried to trim it yet. When you cut your Brugs do they grow new stems? Or do they regrow from the top of the Y branches again? I'm thinking plumeria may grow similar
Gita, I put my Brugs right into the ground this year. It was much easier taking care of the cuttings indoors (you sent them to me) than dealing with the whole plant. I intend to leave the plant in the ground and just take cuttings indoors. Is the proper place to cut them anywhere above the "Y"?
wind--
I have never grown a Plumeria--and do not know its growth habits. I think Chantelle may know...
So I do not know how it would relate to a Brug.
I will concentrate on answering your questions on the Brug.
When I cut back my Brugs, to bring them inside for the winter dormancy, I never go below the "Y".
Since I root the cuttings--I want them all to start blooming as soon as possible.
Brugs will NOT bloom until they "Y"--so taking cuttings from ABOVE the "Y", in ,my opinion,
will give you bloom much sooner. Maybe it is "genetics"--above vs below.????
I have learned to keep the "Y"'s short when cutting the brug back--keeping the top 2 parts ("arms") of the "Y" short.
Otherwise--the new growth will be too sprawled, as it will grow from the tips of the 'arms"...
You may have new little shoots or leaves coming from the stems, or trunk below--but they are not branches.
Sometimes, a Brug will send up a whole new stem from the bottom from below the soil.
This will be a new stem and will have to "Y" in order to bloom.
I hope this answers your questions.
*****************************************************
RRR--
You are in Z-6. I do not believe any Brug planted in the ground will live through your winter.
Hence--you will not have any new cuttings to take from it. Are you saying you will 'sacrifice" the mama brug?
Your cuttings will grow into new brugs, which may, or may not, grow big enough to take cuttings from later in the year.
My 1st year Brugs are usually small enough that it is easy to just bring in the whole pot.
Your full-sized brug CAN be kept indoors all winter IF you have a nice sunny window--or a sun room.
It will grow and bloom, and could become a source of new cuttings.
For where to cut, above the "Y", stay away from the new, soft growth. They do not root very well. Too green!
Always take a nice wood cutting--any diameter. I would stay away from the real skinny ones--3/4" -1" diam. is good.
You could even root a section of the main trunk if you like.
I gave one to Terp last year. We called it the "Monster Cutting'....
Did this answer Your questions? Gita
1--From 2008. Cuttings rooting. all from above the "Y"--with smaller "Y",s above.
***Once a stem "Y"'s--ALL subsequent growth above it will "Y" as well.
So--the cuttings below themselves are from above the "Y"--but the subsequent growth akso "Y"-ed.
So--now it looks like I took a straight cutting from below the "Y"??? Nope! It is a "Y" further up from the 1st "Y".
Does this make sense?????
2--Here is a very large Brug (Maya) cut back severely. This grew into a monster the following year.
7'x7'. I had to give it away to an Arboretum. (2009).
3--This was beautiful--but bizaare. No way I could ever take it inside. This is the "Maya" brug.
Never before--or after have i seen any brugs grow to this size.
In Florida brugs get huge. The first photo is of one outside my father-in-law's next door neighbor's house - and trust me, they don't baby it.
But then again, they also get birds a bit bigger than ours.
Just jumping in here I haven't read thru the whole thread but if you've mentioned it before...sorry
anyone in an area with the 17 year cicadas?
I had to travel 1hour 1/2 north of me to check them out
the live ones
I paint my stones with a little brush and the same paint that I use to paint my black outdoor metal furniture. I'll try to remember to check the label. I got it on the sales rack at Walmart - it said good for metal and other stuff. I think it is the same brand that does the plastic fusion spray paint. Actual paint is easier and longer lasting than paint pens, at least for me. Cheaper also, especially if you grab a can from the closet or the sales rack...
I made some word rocks also - pink ladybugs (the red paint was mia when inspiration struck), inspirational sayings and the like. I couldn't believe that people buy faux rocks with words on them when they could paint their own for practically nothing. Mass produced, plastic composite faux rocks boggle my mind. I did make a couple of rocks to "inspire" people to pick up after their dogs. One of these got stolen. So did a pink ladybug. I don't care, I ahve plenty of rocks, paint and inspiration.
I tried blinds with pencil, "permanent" markers and paint pens. The pencil lasts the longest, if I don't wipe it off while wiping the dirt off the blind. The squirrels dig them out and play with them. I think the little tree rodents learned that the white things mark soft ground to bury black walnuts. I use the marked blinds for sown seeds and paint rocks for roses, perennials and other survivors.
My oldest painted rocks are two years old. The ones with the black metal paint look the same as the day I painted them. I have a couple painted with Kilz indoor/outdoor base coat - for dark rocks where black wouldn't show. That has lasted well also. The pink paint was regular indoor wall paint. it chipped, peeled and faded. Exterior or metal paint is probably best for rocks. At first, I brought the rocks inside to wash them, now I don't bother. I usually rub the rock with an old stainless kitchen scrubbie to remove surface dirt. ( I replaced my old one and put it in the gardening basket). If I can't find the scrubbie, I wipe the dry rock on my gardening jeans.
Rock painting would be a fun project for kids. I don't have kids, but the neighborhood kids wanted to paint rocks also. I told them that they could get rocks and pick nice words for me to write on them.
I saw one sleeping cicada (I think) while digging in the garden. It looked like pictures of the cicada underground before they wake up. It was a shiny cilinder. Replicas would make interesting earrings. It is in my little neighbor's bug jar. It hasn't woken up yet, but I hope it does. It has even taken a ride in its bug jar on the school bus for show and tell.
GQ: Thanks for the information -- it sounds as if maybe you were using rustoleum? I hadn't even thought about that -- that's a great idea. I'll use that rather than a paint pen. (I am going to use painted stones to label the "columns" and "rows" on my awful front hill -- well, I've been saying for 6 months I'm going to do this. Maybe some day I actually will! The stones are now painted white --all I have to do is paint the column "letter" and row "numbers" on, and then a finish coat to seal the deal. Maybe a good project for a rainy tomorrow.
I know I have posted this same question many times over the years, but I am having a hard time figuring out an efficient way to draw a map on paper of areas that I have planted in the yard. Take my awful front hill (please?). I planted it last fall / winter, and now (surprise), some of the plants have died, so I am putting in new ones and moving things around. Sometimes I am substituting different plants; other times I am replacing the dead plant with the same plant. But I still would like a record of what I originally planted, and what I do each day when I work in a particular area, so I know what failed and so I'll have a clue if something re-sprouts next year. Have any of you solved this? I can't use labels on plants in the awful front hill because they'd just fall out and tumble to the street, so I have to map it. I suspect there is no great solution -- I just have to take tons of notes. There is an additional challenge on the horizon: Right now I still have tracking tape stapled to the hill that marks each "row" and "column" (the hill is one giant excel spreadsheet, with each cell one yard by one yard). But that tracking tape won't last forever, so at some point I'm going to be on my own to figure out what "cell" I am looking at. (There are about 26 columns and 10 rows, though it varies considerably.) Because of that, I am especially eager for the map to be crystal-clear.
Some GPS equipment is accurate enough to map a garden, but I know nothing of the products or their affordability.
I was wondering about a similar garden mapping solution. I have some software for house and garden design. I was wondering if there was an online program like this. I thought it would be fun to post plans of my new garden, plants lists, etc. to track things and get suggestions from other gardeners.
I googled and answered my own question. Does anyone use any of these?
I think that I like this one
http:/www.mygardenpal.com.au/
Garden Planner 3 - you have to download the 15 day free trial to be able to save the plans. this project is going to take more than 15 days and I already have autoCAD. It doesn't have many plants, either. I'll pass.
http://smallblueprinter.com/garden/planner.html
Better homes and Gardens has a free online tool with 150 kinds of plants.
http://www.bhg.com/gardening/design/nature-lovers/welcome-to-plan-a-garden/
Here is a review of several of the above programs/sites
http://www.mygardenpal.com.au/paymentSubmit.php
Veggie Garden planner, based on square foot gardening, with sample plans and do your own plans
http://www.gardeners.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-Gardeners-Site/default/Link-Page?id=kgp_pp
This one has a garden gnome
http:/www.mygardenpal.com.au/
Happy---
I am glad you still have the tape grids--as this will make it easier to do what i am going to suggest.
Your goal is what? To record what plants are in which grid? or--in each 3' x 3' area.
The grids on your paper will need to be big enough so that you can write several things in it.
Get some "math paper"--the one with all the little squares on it. It will make it easier to draw all the grids and rows.
Your taped grids are 3'x3'. Right? If you make 1' = 1" on the paper-- it will be easy. Just keep it constant.
Using this ratio--draw your rows and grids on the "math paper".
Paper comes in 81/2" x 11" sizes. SO---each sheet of paper would represent 81/2' x 11'.
Dropping the 1/2" and the 1" for margins--lets say--each sheet of paper will equal an 8' x 10' are on your hill.
Look at it and figure out the # of sheets you will end up with if you use the 1' = 1" ratio. You will have a LOT of sheets!!..
You can always make it smaller--say: 1' = 1/2". Now you would have 16' x 20' represented on one sheet of paper.
Just decide how much space you need to write in-- to record all the plants.
You could tape all the sheets end-t-o-end (or side-by-side) to represent one row. Not sure which way your rows go.
Do you follow me??? It is NOT that complicated.......if your brain is pre-computer---you can, actually, think this through.
Gita
Quilts--I cross-posted with you....:o]
Map/graph paper can be had in sizes larger than 81/2x11, but you have to go to a store with drafting supplies.
I've done that -- I didn't use graph paper but I drew out the rows and columns. And I've penciled the information in. That was fine in the beginning. But now as plants die and I replace them, it is getting very hard to read. I don't think there is a solution other than copying it over periodically, and keeping a record of prior iterations. What I'd like is a spreadsheet that would allow me to date comments, and then let me go back through historic iterations, but I know that doesn't exist. I've spent considerable time looking at the commercial products, but they all seemed like more trouble than they were worth. Most brag about containing information x thousand different plants, but they never have the plants I want. And I found the programs both too inflexible and too much trouble to learn.
I have tried to PDF various iterations of my hand-drawn maps. I think I have to settle on a protocol of having a set number of "columns" on a page -- so I always draw columns 1-5 on a single page, and 6-10 on a single page, and so on. Right now I haven't been consistent -- I just go until I run out of space, and sometimes I use the back of page. I try to date my marginalia -- for example, I noted for one plant on 5/15 that 3 of 4 were dead, but today I found that 3 of 4 were alive (very spiritual), so I scribbled that in. But I also draw little circles to represent each plant, and it gets crowded!
I had planted a Forsythia and some Hameln on the line between my lot and my neighbor's, on my awful front hill. She hadn't shown any interest in that area, though in general she's been doing great things with her yard -- very inspirational. Anyway, she had a guy come on Saturday to pull out some of her ornamental grasses that she decided (correctly) were invasive. He weeded too -- pulled out the forsythia, but left me the label I had printed on the computer as well as a very healthy poison ivy. I guess he thought the label was for the poison ivy. And he pulled out all the Hameln too. My fault, really, I should have pointed these out to her. But you've gotta laugh....
I take a pic and then label them with Picasa photo program...very easy to change when you move something
If you already have a grid, you can give each block in the grid a letter or you can use letters and numbers for the grid like a map. Then, you can use the grid numbers as identifiers in your spread sheat. Like 2013A1 or however you do it. If you have the year or the month and year when you plant things, you can have several A1 in your spreadsheet. In office (and other software, I am sure) you can link the entries to pictures or explainations.
Is it a big hill?
I just want to have a list of all of my plants and have each one labeled with a painted rock. I am playing "is it a plant or is it a weed" and trying to decifer faded plastic plant labels. I am going to keep the plastic labels for the seed starting containers and not putting them in the garden anymore. I am sick of looking at them!
Later, I will be playing "which rose/clematis are you"?
I got a set of abc metal working stamps. Jewelry making is another of my hobbies. (I will have room for my workbench in the garage of the new place, yippee). It is a pain to use if you are stamping lots of letters. A set of letter stamps, metal from the hardware store or from soda cans may be a more affordable solution for your metal labels. You can burn the paint off soda cans or you can paint over it and the metal stamps should show the metal beneath.
Copper labels would be very attractive, IMO, but painted rocks are a lot easier! You could paint the grid number on the underside of your painted rock.
The painted rock thing wouldn't work well in places without rocks. (Yes, there are rock free places with soil like potting mix and no trees such as North Dakota. Rocks are probably rare and expensive there.)
My paint is krylon interior/exterior paint which works on metal, concrete, wood, etc. I bet anything that paints concrete would paint rocks. It is probably a competitor to rustoleum. I took a picture of the can, but my camera is downstairs in my bag and I am comfy in my chair.
flowajen -- using Pandora to ID photos is a great idea -- I hadn't thought of that -- I don't think that'll work in my awful front hill (AFH) -- it is just too big and I'd get lost -- but I can see lots of places to use that. And it might work. I'll definitely try it. I love Pandora. Thanks!
GQ -- It is about 75' long and 30' or more deep at the deepest (on the right) -- it is a triangle (sort of) that tapers off slowly to the left. I'm labeling it just like an Excel spreadsheet -- columns A - Z and rows 1 -10. I have a list of all the plants in my entire garden on a spreadsheet -- I suppose I could pull out a list of the plants in the AFH. One problem I have is that the "cells" in the yard are not that easy to identify physically -- what seems like cell M5 today might feel like J6 in a week when I am standing in the middle of the hill -- it is easy to lose my orientation. I wish I could come up with some kind of permanent row and column marker that wouldn't move. And then the deer wander through, pick up plants and spit them out -- so everything moves around a bit. It is very steep, so it is not fun to work on, and anything I set down rolls down the hill if I'm not careful.
I can't use metal labels out front -- they just won't last. I spend a lot of time slipping on the hill, and I'd knock the labels out. I'm all about labels -- but not on the front hill.
Thanks for letting me know it is Krylon paint that you use -- I know the hardware store carries that. Now we'll see how steady my hand is!
I'm only labeling the perimeter -- the rows and columns. I'm not going to label each "cell". (The labels would wander and then it would be worse than not having labels.)
I look forward to hearing more about your hobbies! It sounds as if you have a ton!
Gita, you did answer my question about the Brug cuttings. I was intending to sacrifice the mother plant, but, since you said the branch might not be mature enough, I may have to dig them out!! Can they be overwintered in a garage in a dormant state?
RRR--
If your garage does not freeze--they might be OK, depending on how cold it gets there.
I don't think they would like to sit out the winter in an area colder than, say, 50*-55*.
You could get around that by running a small heater in the garage. A single light may help as well.
Even though they are "dormant"--they are still very much alive all through this period.
They grow leaves (mostly at the tips) and perk up when spring approaches.
How they know that--in a dark, cold room, I don't know.
My house is a 4-level split. The lowest level was my EX's Shop. That is where I keep them.
While it is not heated--it is part of my house and so the temps stay around the mid-high 50's.
When you dig up the Mama plant--don't be surprised that it's roots are long and in all directions.
See? if they were in a pot--most of the roots would be inside the pot--and only the fatter,
long ones would have grown through the holes in the sides of the pot. These would then be cut off.
Can you dig it up and plant it in a BIG pot and fill it with soil? This would help keep it alive.
IF you do that--cut the plant back as i described above.
Good luck--I am always here to help you. Gita
wow Jen, some good cicada pics!! never saw that many all at once before
Jen! I have cicada envy!!!! I wish they were out here. I'm afraid I would have to drive 45 minutes South to really experience them. I suppose I had my time to enjoy them back in college, 9-10 years ago? Yikes.
Paul---
You don't want to have Cicadas--they destroy a lot of trees by scratching deep wounds on the stems
of any tree to lay their eggs in. These deep cuts heal over with time--but the branch tip above them
can be so damaged that it just turns dry and falls off.
My WS was very badly affected by them as well. I wonder, if you looked real close, if you could still see
some of the wounds on te older stems???
The last 17-year invasion here was in 2004. Not sure why they are already here in just 2013????
Unless, different areas have them there in a different 17-yr. cycles?????.
Many of the branches that still fall down from my maples show the Cicada scars. Almost ALL of them!
The birds gorge on them--the toads and frogs do too. Much of wildlife has an orgy when they are here...
I have now lived through FOUR 17-year Cicada invasions. Not fun......
Gita
Paul, a funny story: My oldest son and I were fishing a bass tournament at a local lake surrounded by a mature hardwood and old field succession, during a 17 year Cicada cycle. The noise was unbelievable and absolutely no one could catch a fish, they were all gorging on the Cicadas as they hit the water. My son and I finally gave up using bait and lures and since we were allowed to go ashore for nature calls we gathered as many Cicadas as we could and returned to the boat. We used little rubber bands like you use when braiding a horses mane to attach the live Cicada to a long shank hook, with no sinker we flipped the beast as far from the boat as possible, sorta' like fly fishing with live flies and a bait-caster. LOL We did catch some fish and placed to the consternation of a few others in attendance.
Gita- Yes. I do want Cicadas. They are a very interesting bug and if they do a little harm to the tree, as you say, then that's life. Cicadas are something else, prehistoric almost. Annual, biannual, 17 year cycle, and who know how many other types there are. It is unbelievable.
Hahaha Ric that is a story to remember.
It's really strange that I went to see Jessica (Gardadore) two days ago and her gardens were LOADED with Cicadas and I've seen none here yet. She lives just a few miles away.
I haven't seen or heard them here but we have in the past.
SOOO--Paul----
You are into insects also? Goes with all kinds of other interests you have--I am just finding out..
I have a huge, Brandy sniffer glass. It is full of all kinds of things--among them a lot of the
Cicada cases they shed--or crawl out of. Dead Butterflies, huge beetles, dead borer bees, moths, etc.
I have one huge, amazing Moth! Also from the Growers place...This is about 1989.
This collection started back when i was working for the Grower, and one day I came across a shed snake skin.
That still sits in the bottom of this brandy sniffer.
Te typical orange/yellow butterflies, as well as Black Swallow butterflies often fly around under my patio roof.
Then they drop down below--when they are dying. If i can beat the ants to it--I can pick up an intact butterfly.
I have lots of them....Pics are from 2006.
The last 2 pictures are of a humongous, beautiful Moth I found on the pavement by the front door to the HD.
Took it home and tried to keep it alive in a wicker basket--but, after a few days, it had died and broken off a
lot of the wing-tips in it's thrashing around. It had real fur on it! These pics are from 2010.
Next time you are here--do you want to see it all? G.
I have been asked where the ruler is from.
It is from New Zealand (we were there in 2008). The little sections of different woods on it represent
every tree that grows in NZ. There are 14 all together..
Pics. Left half---right half---the whole thing....
The other Nature Lover.......G.
ok gang, can now tell that Mark and I were in Las Vegas and Utah for the week- vaca with my brother and sister and their spouses. Pictures are not yet off camera..but can give some pictures of Zion and Bryce parks in southern Utah- very dry and amazing rock formations , and I found some flowers too.
I was glad to hear we had rain while we were gone (2 1/2 inches!?) but have not yet toured the yard . I did see a daylily has bloomed, I have it labeled Susie Wong. and the magnolia looks loaded with blooms.