BULBS for spring 2011

Thomaston, CT

Go for it, Deb. I bought some Claudia tulips today at WalMart....now I have to find some room.....

South China, ME(Zone 5a)

Because Tulips carry the tulip breaking virus and it can be spread to your lilies....give me a few and i'll find it!

South China, ME(Zone 5a)

Here one page I found had this....read the next to the last line.

Symptoms

Breaking symptoms have been described as bars, stripes, streaks, featherings or flames of different colors on petals. The symptoms are variable depending on the flower variety and age at the time of infection. The color variation is caused by local fading, intensification or accumulation of pigments in the upper epidermal layer. The change in pigmentation occurs after the normal flower color has developed. Two types of breaking have been described. Light breaking occurs when the upper pigment fades and the lighter color (white or yellow) of the mesophyll cells becomes visible. The lighter colors appear as irregular streaks or fine featherings. Dark breaking occurs when the color in the epidermal cells intensifies in small dark streaks or elongated flecks. The two types of breaking commonly occur along the edges and tops of petals and sepals. Both dark and light breaking may occur on the same plant. The flame pattern characteristic of early Rembrandt tulips appears as narrow or broad streaks of color in the center portion of the petal or sepals. Flames may also occur near petal edges. The original flamed plants contained two tone mixes of red, oxblood, yellow, purple, and white. These same colors may be found in genetically bred Rembrandts of today. Infected plants also exhibit mottling or chlorosis of foliage and are reduced in size and vigor. There is also a reduction in bulbil and offset production.

Plant Health Management

Sanitation.
Rogue and destroy infected plants. This practice is required by law in areas of commercial bulb production.
Control Aphid.
Insecticide application may be necessary when aphid populations build up.
Do not plant tulips near lilies.
Tulip breaking virus as well as other viruses infect both types of plants.

South China, ME(Zone 5a)

OK, took me a bit but I knew there was thread here on DG about it.......
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/598435/

Pittsford, NY(Zone 6a)

THANKS Pixie this is important news for all of us.

South China, ME(Zone 5a)

DebbieTT
Joined: Jan-25-2003
Location: Washington, Kitsap Peninsula
Posted: Nov-08-2004 at 5:05pm

Tulip-breaking virus (TBV) gives the Rembrandt Tulips their coloring, which is very beautiful, but then it doesn't seem so beautiful once you know the cause. From what I 've been reading in one of my newest book Lilies a Guide for Growers and Collectors, by Edward Austin McRae, TBV is the oldest known virus disease identified by science. I thought that was an interesting side-note.

Since lilies are susceptible to viruses its not a good idea to plant those tulips with the virus. I was not aware of the correlation with tulips, although very aware of the viruses that affect lilies. Breeders of lilies are breeding tougher Lilies.

South China, ME(Zone 5a)

Your very welcome....I've lost some beauties because i didn't know.
This one was one of my favs...I had to yard it and burn it last year along with several others.
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/272694/

S of Lake Ontario, NY(Zone 6a)

Thanks Celeste! I sure couldn't find it anywhere, sorry you lost some.

South China, ME(Zone 5a)

N/P Deb, I was the one on the co-op thread that mentioned it . I've also been lurking in the lily forum for 4 years now, was bound to learn something. ^_^

central, NJ(Zone 6b)

Very interesting

Pittsford, NY(Zone 6a)

Now I am wondering about where I have tulips planted near lilies.
I think my new bulbs might be in trouble.I'll just have to wait and see.

Thomaston, CT

But it seems the tulips have to be Rembrandts.......that's what gives them the markings....I've never planted Rembrandt tulips.....surely the virus is not in every tulip?

Pittsford, NY(Zone 6a)

Thanks for making that observation Marilyn

Thomaston, CT

N/P!

South China, ME(Zone 5a)

Ahh, but are you sure that your plain tulips are not planted/grown/or stored beside a R. Tulip? I take NO CHANCES anymore.

BTW...Aphids too seem to spread the virus....did you read the DG thread?

This message was edited Sep 14, 2010 8:36 AM

Thomaston, CT

Smart, Pixie....I don't have many lilies left due to the red devils, so I guess I can plant these tulips where I can find room.....

South China, ME(Zone 5a)

Here's what I got from the net about the lily virus and it's not much:

1. you can transmit the disease from flower to flower with your clippers. When cutting flowers (groan) carry a bucket of a 10% bleach solution to disinfect your clippers. You could have cut some other flower (with aphids) and then infected your lily when you cut it next.

2. aphids carry the disease - they chew the diseased sap and carry it to the next plant. This means it could have come from a neighbor down the street. Keep a really sharp eye for aphids and destroy them asap.

3. It could have come on the new bulb BUT just having twisted or streaked foliage could be the result of other things - the flower is your only sure way of telling. Dig and destroy the plant and bulb if you see the dreaded streaking and mottling on flower or bud. White lilies are just about impossible to tell about it.

4. Tiger lilies can be a carrier but do not show the disease.

There is a huge amount of written info on the net but not as many pictures as I would like. I really hate this.

Thomaston, CT

I did have tiger lilies, but have been removing them as well, since the red beetles eat them, also! I do have aphids, & I hate to spray...where are the lady bugs when you need them?

Hannibal, NY(Zone 6a)

I've never had a problem with the tulips or the lilies. And of course this is not organic gardening, but my inspector requires I be aphid and thrip free, so to do that I have to spray. I use the Bayer tree and shrub soil drench. It's supposed to work for 12 months, and the active ingredient is Imidacloprid. I apply it once in the spring and no problems, even with iris borers. But it only kills the sucking and chewing insects, as it's systemic. We have tons of all sorts of bees, including honey bees from a nearby farmer, and no problems with them.

By the way, I understand the tulip breaking virus was how the Rembrandts origionally started, but that they are free of it now?

South China, ME(Zone 5a)

Polly I too use the Bayer product w/imidcloprid...it's the only thing that really works on the Red Lily beetles.
As far as I know they are working on breeding a more disease resistant lily but im not sure on the tulips being virus free. I know there are supposed to be stricker guide lines on inspections , hopefully that will help cut down the problem if not eradicate it.

This message was edited Sep 14, 2010 8:59 AM

Pittsford, NY(Zone 6a)

Thanks Polly
I was about to give up gardening.lol

Hannibal, NY(Zone 6a)

Give me a break Jo Ann! You could no more give up gardening than you could painting, I don't think.

If we are still getting tulip breaking virus, there certainly need to be stricter guidelines for import, Pixie!

See, now you answered my question. I was wondering why I had no red lily beetles when Jo Ann has then in Rochester to my west, and Kathy has them in Mass, to my east. I always though it was probably the Imidacloprid.

Thomaston, CT

And here's hoping the red lily beetle eating wasp gets into CT in a hurry....I'm just too afraid to use chemicals as my well sits right in the front yard by the gardens.

South China, ME(Zone 5a)

I just ordered a few more things.....do not normally order from Van Bourgondien Bros. as they have rotten feedback but they are the only one with this lily and I wanted it bad!

10 bulbs of Double Daffodils Duo
3 bulbs of Hyacinth 'Firelights'
3 bulbs of Asiatic Lily 'Lady Elaine'

This is the lily...not my picture, Van Bourgondien Bros. picture.

Thumbnail by pixie62560
Thomaston, CT

It's a winner!

central, NJ(Zone 6b)

Gorgeous!

Charlotte, VT

Is there a particular company out there that has the lowest prices on bulbs? I love the simple King Alfred daffodils. I planted some about 6 years ago and some of the bulbs have divided several times. Is there a good time of year to dig them up and extend their area. A couple of years ago I planted some blue siberica around the King Alfreds. Beautiful.

central, NJ(Zone 6b)

Brent and Becky's have sales in the middle of the summer if you place your order by a certain date.
I don't trust the real cheap companies, def check out the watchdog for the best companies to deal with

Pittsford, NY(Zone 6a)

Good advise FlowAgen. Check any plant website on Garden Watchdog.
HelenVT!!! wait for daffs to die back in spring,then dig and divide.

Pepperell, MA(Zone 6a)

toobad you missed the coop's that just went on helen.

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