Amorphs unleashed

Ontario, CA(Zone 8b)

Tropicbreeze, your garden is fabulous! How big of a property do you have? It looks huge! My backyard is large for the area, but in the grand scheme of things, it’s really not that big. I would like to get it to where I just see plants surrounding me back there, rather than seeing the chainlink fences and one neighbor’s weeds, and another neighbor’s gravel pile.

I like the idea of using taller sun loving plants to shade the smaller more sensitive ones. I just need to do some research on what I can use in my area that will love the heat and sun, and preferably be somewhat pest tolerant. With all the plants you have, do you have a lot of problem with pests? I can’t imagine how much time it would take you to be able to attend to all those plants!

That makes sense about the bulblets being more mature than seeds would be. I started keeping a blog of my plant experiences, so I’ll be able to look back and see how long my seeds took.

With your galbra seeds, about what percentage would you say was sand and soil? Like 50/50? Is that something specific to the galbra (the fungal infection issue), or to all amorphophallus? I had not read that when researching the bulbifers, but there really was not a lot of information I could find on growing from seed.

I think I’m going to separate my babies out into separate pots this weekend. There are at least 4 coming up (should be a fifth, but maybe bad seed or slow seed) in a 4 inch pot, so that’s pretty small for them. I was just a little afraid that I might set back the plant if I messed with it when it’s just coming up, but I would rather do a little damage moving them now than a lot of damage moving them later. I can’t wait to see the plants start getting big and to see the first bulblet! I like plants that reproduce easily.

Thank you for sharing your experiences and being so thorough in your answers. And especially for sharing with me the links to your garden. Amazing. You give me a lot to consider when deciding what to do with my babies moving forward. =)

Ontario, CA(Zone 8b)

Oh Tommy, thanks for the suggestion. Are you able to find cheap light-colored plastic pots in your area or online? The only light colored pots I can seem to find in the local nurseries tend to be the much thicker, fancier, expensive pots. I'm trying to stick with cheap, at least until I figure out which plants are going to work well here and which won't. Do they make light-colored plant bags?
Thanks! =)

Tucson, AZ

hi sharon - this is my first season with them. i do know that they were originally used for growing trees above ground. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsHfUbUXSXY&feature=related i have seen tall trees planted in them above ground. that will be good for my plumeria!

Ontario, CA(Zone 8b)

Very cool! How big is your plumeria? I have a couple seeds I just started. Wasn't sure I wanted to spend more money for a cutting quite yet. =)

Tucson, AZ

my biggest ones are in 15-gal containers. you can see the amorphs in the background under the shade cloth.

it takes plumeria 2-5 yrs to bloom from seed. they are not true from seed but will be some variation of the parents.

Thumbnail by tucsonplumeriaz
Ontario, CA(Zone 8b)

Beautiful. Yeah, I read that they would take a long time to bloom from seed, and wouldn't be true, but I figured that I'm not really at a point yet where I'm picky about what I get. =)

Tucson, AZ

i don't think it's about being picky. just wouldn't want to go down that long road and then decide that i don't like the plant. =) but just the fact that you are willing to grow from seed means that there is some kind of spark there. i just want the fireworks right away (i.e. blooms)!

noonamah, Australia

Sharon, it's a "big small property". But the garden area itself is roughly 9,600 square metres (if you use that other system it's 11,481.5044 sq yards = 2.37221166 acres, google conversion). There's also some bits gardened outside of that area. It's all low maintenance though. There's automatic irrigation, essential in this climate. Because of its area, and the fact I keep increasing the area, it is a lot of work. But I could do what a lot of others I know do in their spare time - drink beer and watch TV. They think I'm crazy, but I'm one up on them, I know I'm crazy, LOL.

Having a garden that size means there's a large variety of micro-habitats and micro-climates that suit a varied range of plants. So it's worth the effort. And that was the choice I made when I originally bought the place. As well, it's been a very steep learning curve. But with internet these days in depth information is freely available.

Biggest problem is weeds, although that's mostly outside of the garden and in the other different native habitats I'm trying to protect. I don't use pesticides but there's no real problems with pests. There's a balance in the system that seems to be working well so far. In fact, the biggest pest problem is the wallabies and possums, and occasionally Jungle Fowl. But, I'm a sucker for a cute face so they get away with it.

The galbra was in probably 70% - 80% sand. But it was the titanum I was most worried about. They're expensive and I was warned they were very susceptible to fungus and nematodes. The suggestion was to put the seed in sterile sand and let the roots grow out into the soil. That way no fungus comes into contact with the seed itself. I put a fungicide through the new soil the large titanum tuber gets planted into each season.

One of the "cute faces".

Thumbnail by tropicbreeze
(Debra) Derby, KS(Zone 6a)

ID this one for me please?
here it was April

Thumbnail by joeswife
(Debra) Derby, KS(Zone 6a)

here it is this am..

Thumbnail by joeswife
noonamah, Australia

To me that flower looks more like a Typhonium than an Amorphophallus. But the leaf I don't recognise.

Ontario, CA(Zone 8b)

joeswife - I think tropicbreeze is right. I searched google images for Typhonium, and came across a picture that looks like it matches. Here's the plant files page for Typhonium Venosum, also listed on some sites as Sauromatum Venosum. On the plantfiles page, there is a picture showing the leaves of one, and I think it might be the same.

http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/2055/

Ontario, CA(Zone 8b)

By the way, joeswife, that is beautiful. I love plants that don't fit the typical 'pretty' profile. Love the oddities. (Of course, I still love the pretties too, but there is something about the oddities.) Now I want to research and find out if that is something that would do well in my area. I had never heard of that. =)

Ontario, CA(Zone 8b)

Tusconplumeriaz – I would like the fireworks right away, but I’m just not willing to pay for them right now. I am willing to pay little money and end up with a lot more, even though it means a longer wait. I’m doing that with some other stuff too. I figure the ones that I don’t like that much can be given away for free to those that do like it. Benefits them, benefits me. It’s all good. I just checked one of my plumeria seeds, and it is starting to push itself out of the potting medium. I guess a bit of green under the edge of the seed covering part (not sure what that is called, sheath maybe?). I’m excited! =)

Ontario, CA(Zone 8b)

Tropicbreeze – Yeah, I guess that is not crazy big. My parents live in Texas and I think their property is about 2 acres. Maybe it’s the way you have the different areas that makes it seem like it must be bigger. That is great that you have automatic irrigation set up. Makes that part much easier. How much time do you think you spend out in your gardens daily, weekly? At least you are being productive during your spare time! While they are gaining beer guts, you’ll be healthy and active and breathing the fresh air. =)

The micro-habitat/micro-climate thing fascinates me. I still have to learn more about that in my yard. I don’t have that big of a yard, so probably not that many differences, but there are definite areas that are in mostly shade all day, mostly sun all day, areas that only get the hottest afternoon sun. So I guess I will have to figure out which plants are going to do the best in which areas. Thank goodness for the internet. I can’t imagine how much more work it would be if I had to go hunt down a book or go to the library every time I needed information.

You don’t have too much of a problem with weeds popping up amongst your plants? Is that because those areas are specifically suited for those plants, and so it discourages weeds from popping up? Right now, my back yard is all weeds (though manicured weeds), and I am picturing fighting weeds being one of my bigger problems at the beginning, at least until the different areas are set up and running smoothly. That’s great that you don’t have too much of a problem with pests. Amazing to have that balance that keeps them in check. Wow, you get a lot of animals coming through! That picture is so cute! Hopefully they don’t do too much damage to the plants.

I’ve read other stuff that required sand as a potting medium for starting out. But I am not sure what type of sand can be used. Playground sand that they sell at the big box stores? Or is there a special sand for plants? Can I used the types of sands that are used in fish tanks? I have some really tiny seeds I want to use that call for sand since they are so tiny. I was thinking about grabbing the black sand that is used in fish tanks, because then I would have a good contrast when the green starts popping up. I wasn’t sure if that sand would be acceptable though.

I was reading about those nematodes. Scary things. There are so many different types of pests out there that I have never heard of. So before you plant the titanum, you soak the soil in the fungicide? I assume it’s a diluted fungicide/water solution? Do you have to wait for a certain period of time before planting, or is good to go after draining?

(Debra) Derby, KS(Zone 6a)

I love anything that is not normal for Kansas, and blend them in with my native plants here.. tropicals and weeds, I love it. ;)

noonamah, Australia

Sharon, the garden takes up about 10% of the place, the natural swamp habitat takes up about 15%, and the riverine (creek) habitat takes up about 20%. Micro-habitats/micro-climates are important in gardening. But what you do there can also change those conditions over time. But it certainly broadens the range of plants you can successfully grow.

The weeds here are more suited to the natural habitats rather than the gardens where the understoreys are more shaded. But the whole thing revolves around proper research and thinking ahead to what the implications of your actions might be.

(Debra) Derby, KS(Zone 6a)

My voodoo bulb that is three years old is just now peeking up.. is it late?

noonamah, Australia

If they can get 6 to 7 months of growing then that's not bad. They need it to develop a good sized tuber (storage organ). The larger the tuber the sooner they'll get to flowering. You can 'cheat' a little and place them, in a pot, in a sunny spot at the start of the season. Warming up earlier will encourage them to sprout earlier and have a longer growing season.

When your summer season is over place the plant (hopefully it's in a pot) in the warmest and brightest lit spot and keep it growing as long as possible. And make sure it has plenty of fertiliser throughout that time.

Poughkeepsie, NY(Zone 6a)

Joe'swife, some of mine are late as well.

Ontario, CA(Zone 8b)

Two of my a. bulbifers are doing especially well. I have a few others that are doing okay, just slower, and some that are just getting started. I started with 10 seeds, and all 10 are growing at least a little bit. =)

Thumbnail by SkeptikSharon
Tucson, AZ

woo hoo! how long from seed to the pic sharon?

Ontario, CA(Zone 8b)

27 days! These were started in a moist coffee filter in a ziploc in a warm window, then moved to a seed starter mix once they were showing some roots. They seem to be pretty happy so far. =)

Tucson, AZ

cool! hmmm...i might have to try a seed next spring!

noonamah, Australia

That looks great. Keep them growing as long as possible, feed them well and you'll end up with large flowering plants earlier.

Tucson, AZ

how often do you fertilize yours tropicbreeze?

(Debra) Derby, KS(Zone 6a)

My good friend Bonnie has a passel of voodoo lillys, hers are small trees, and they come back every winter from the ground..
here are the babies that have popped up, her big ones are in a huge tub..

Thumbnail by joeswife
noonamah, Australia

I try to fertilise fortnightly as I only get back from work once a fortnight. But if I've got too much on when I get home I may miss out so it becomes a month. Also, I try to alternate between fish/seaweed emulsion and a balanced chemical fertiliser with trace elements. Now and again I throw on some well rotted poultry manure.

Tucson, AZ

i use 10-16-38 w/ micros, but was thinking that i would like to alternate w/ a higher nitrogen fertilizer. i will look into the fish/seaweed emulsion. thanks!

Ontario, CA(Zone 8b)

How soon do you guys think I need to start fertilizing these babies? Now? I have a 10-10-10 and a 12-4-8, one is Miracle-Gro and the other is Vigoro. I'm really a little clueless on the fertilizer part, so I'm not at all sure what to get. I had seen, I think, one of the fish emulsion type foods at the nursery I buy containers at, but I don't know much about that.

Joeswife - those are great! I'm having a lot of fun with my a. bulbifers. So easy!

On a side note, my plants have a light pink edging to their leaves. Is that normal for a. bulbifers or maybe just a baby thing they grow out of? I can't tell in the pictures I've seen of the adult plants whether they have that or not.

Poughkeepsie, NY(Zone 6a)

Anyone else find these slow at waking up this year? I have one fully open and smaller ones just now breaking the soil surface.

Tucson, AZ

that seems to be the story around the country tommy. various plants i have just really seem to be taking off this month and i am in the desert. my konjacs seem to be in a v-formation.

Central, AL(Zone 7b)

Mine are slow to get going, but they're taking off at present. Those that in dense shade took longer than ones that are in partial sun.

Poughkeepsie, NY(Zone 6a)

I was hoping you folks would say that! I don't feel alone now! LOL! Other plants are also slow to get going for me too, like Vinca, butterfly bushes, some daylilies.

Provo, UT(Zone 5a)

im taking the plunge into amorphs.. lol..like i need more plants..especially tropicals..:)
addictive isnt it..lol
i was going to buy one last winter..got busy..and they were pricey.. i see a grower on ebay has good rep..
several konjac for sale and good sized..so..im in..
looking foward to you all giving me the good info on growing these babies...:)
was thinking once the flowering is done..if they do bloom this winter..
i was thinking of using a germinating heating pad under bulbs to give them head start before planting
out in early summer here ..utah..
thoughts???
thanks....

noonamah, Australia

I got 8 small konjac tubers recently and they're already reasonable sized plants, although probably still a couple of years before flowering. The longer the growing period the bigger the tuber you'll get. The bigger the tuber the sooner you'll get a flower. So, good feeding and plenty of warmth is the way to go. Don't know how heating pads would go but logically they should work well. As long as the plant doesn't come up into frigid air and get frost burn.

Blackshear, GA

Hi Tropic,
I bought one a couple of months ago and of course as soon as I had it two weeks, it 'died'. Knowing it was a bulb, I didn't throw it away and just left it sitting there. I was cleaning up this weekend and I noticed it was starting to grow again....its about two inches high. Could you tell me what these plants require for growing conditions. I have never had one before. Where I live the winters usually don't get below 30F and the summers can get 100F plus the heat index can reach 115 at times. Winter is just starting here, although yesterday was 83F, should I put it in the GH, or does it like cold weather?Thank you

Central, AL(Zone 7b)

Gagirl, I assumed that our climate is very similiar. Mine can stay dormain outdoor. But I do keep a few offspring bulbs indoor overwinter just in case critters in the garden dig up my dormain bulbs.

Provo, UT(Zone 5a)

much thanks.. ya..on watching bulb comming in contact with cold air..etc..
i think id do what i do with my other tropicals (EE,bananas,gingers) and since amorphs
seem to be even more sensitive to initial cold shock..get plant going (potted up) then transplant
out into gardens mid june..
i guess konjac is more forgiving than many other amorphs..??? so thought id start
with it..
thanks all.. hope to read more from u all on sucesses..and learnings..

noonamah, Australia

GAgirl, they really need summer growing conditions. I don't know what their minimums threshold is but you'd want it pretty warm to avoid losing it. Too cold and damp/wet might start a rot. I'm surprised it's started to grow at the start of your winter. They don't take well to direct cold. It's when they're kept dry and insulated from the cold (either in dry soil, or indoors) that they can survive while dormant. What you don't want is for it to expend all the energy/nutrient in the tuber producing a leaf that will eventually die from the cold. In their normal growth cycle the tuber completely shrivels up in producing the leaf. The leaf then produces a new tuber which the leaf and roots feed.

Post a Reply to this Thread

Please or sign up to post.
BACK TO TOP