Brent and Becky sale continues

jmorth, do you mean those pots will be for indoor forcing?

Yes, the potted bulbs are to be forced (kind of inside). The procedure used is as follows: After being potted up and thoroughly H²Oed I let them sit in the basement for a week to initiate good root growth. Next week I will put the lids on the tote-boxes and place them in a covered stairwell that connects the basement to the outside (pictured). Then I'll cover the totes with several old comforters and close the basement door. I think being in the enclosed totes the watered pots kind of make their own humid atmosphere because I'll only need to water them 2 or 3 times over the next 3 months. The comforters are placed over and around the totes so that once they are cold the cold is maintained without much variance despite what old man winter rages about above. Toward the late end of Feb. I'll start to remove several pots per week and let buds form under a bank of fluorescent lites in the basement (where the temp over winter hovers around 60° degrees)
I believe this incremental introduction to warmer temps allows the blooms longer duration.
I use early single, early double, and Triumph tulips mostly though some of the species and some Darwins work well too.The short stems of most of these combat floppiness. I usually stick with shorter daffodils for the same reason.
There's a pot of crocus and 1 of muscari in there this year. The single largest pot contains Star Gazer lilies. Hyacinths work well too (but I usually force them on marbles in H²O in a dedicated refrigerator).
This method has served me well for a decade and rewards our house with mid to late winter bloom in a cascade of colors.

Here's another grouping of bulbs:
I started these into the forcing routine in late October so they'll start to be ready in late January. These will need watering usually about every 3 weeks as the atmosphere in the refrigerator is drier than the tote box method. These bulbs were from John Scheepers while the stairwell bulbs were from the B & B half price sale.

From last year - daffodil Sound and Pacific Coast (I think).

Princess Irene

another sample

Thanks so much. I will try to do some the right way this winter, if I can find some cheap bulbs. Patti

Once you have forced them, what do you do with the bulbs? Do you continue to use them as forces bulbs, plant them outside or discard them?

wow, I'm so impressed. I bet your house is one cheerful place at that time.

The daffodils and hyacinths forced are planted outside after forcing either in spring or the following fall, the tulips are discarded.

jmorth, They are all very beautiful.

why do you discard the tulips? won't they grow again?!?!

The tulips inevitability divide and as such are relatively useless for further blooms.

Why do you leave the top part of the bulb above the soil line? Why don't you bury the entire bulb?

Got the email about an hour ago.

Brent and Becky's final day is Monday, December 6. Please go here for details:


http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1060962/

Enjoy the last bits, warmer zone friends.

GeoJo,
in response to your query about tips above soil line...I don't know. I do know every source I've read says to do it that way (tulips and daffodils especially) except for the smaller bulbs like crocus which are placed an inch below the soil line. Lilies are best if planted in deep pots to simulate depth planted outside.
J

jmorth: Complete newbie here, I just want to make sure I understand.

Regarding the tips above the soil question and response: Is that only for planting in pots for forcing? They are deeper if planted in the ground, correct?

jmorth, that's what I have always read too. And that's what I did with the bulbs I'm forcing in a fridge (first time I ever tried this!). But in the past, when I buried pots of bulbs under piles of leaves in a sheltered outside area, I always planted the bulbs so they were completely under soil. I wonder if I should do that or leave them partially exposed (it's not too cold here in 7B). I guess I just wonder why... or why not...

I think its just to give the roots enough room in the shallow pot.
I've forced bulbs in the refridgerator many years. I bury the
tips just a tiny bit.

I've had trouble putting them outdoors but the solution to wrap
in blankets or put in pile of leaves would solve the problem I had
in variable temp outdoors.

Tam

DitchLily, that is correct, just for forcing; when tulips are planted in the ground, the deeper, the better. When I plant Darwins outside I try to go at least 8" down. Usually deeper equals better return potential in following years.
Pic is Banja Luka and Gudoshnik outside -these have returned for 3 years.

Thanks. I have some that I still need to plant. Right now it is cold, damp amid rainy, not weather I want to be out in. Might have to if it does not let up. Fortunately our soil never freezes, so I should be safe.