Hinoki 'nana' struggling

I have had this Hinoki for a few years now, kept it watered, never sprayed it.
Today, I decided to spray with Volck, and then take some pix and post it here.

I will post a few more pictures of it.
I also will post one of the root ball burlap, slightly above ground level as directed to
plant it by the nurseryman. I got this from Underwood nursery, reputable. Since this
is the second summer I am sure it is not under warranty anymore...sigh.

I planted this in the Fall of 07.
I also planted at that time, a Pinus strobus globula, which is doing well.

Is there any hope for my Hinoki? Do you think the Volck was a good idea in case there
is spider mites?
Thank you in advance for thinking about my Hinoki and helping me
Sheri

hinoki foliage

hinoki root ball photo

My little treasured Hinoki so sad

Sheri, the brown foliage looks like winter burn to me. Did you give the tree any kind of winter protection, such as spraying with anti-dessicant or wrapping it in burlap? Also, with the rootball exposed at the top, I suspect that the tree's roots are drying out, so to conserve moisture you could apply a layer of mulch around the tree (but not up against the trunk, or it could cause the bark to rot). Mulch will also prevent weeds and grass from competing with the tree's roots.

No, I didn't spray with anti dessicant. I can put mulch around it today.
I will leave some room by the trunk. BRB. LOLOLOL.


Hmm winter burn. could be, it sure is windy here and fuh fuh fuh freezing.
Aren't you cold too up there in Ontario land? LOL

I am going to put mulch right now.
Sheri

That's winter burn. To check for mites, sharply tap a branch while holding a piece of white copy paper under the branch. Examine what falls off. Mites are pretty small and a 10x hand lens might assist with identification. If you see moving specks ( usually red) it's mites. Mites usually appear in hot, dry conditions, not early or mid spring conditions.

There's enough green left there to make me think that it might survive, with care - mulch, no grass competition near the entire root spread and regular watering especially during dry spells. Problem is this will happen again next winter. Try a more protected location or use a burlap wind screen for next winter.
June_Ontario makes a good point too. Leaving the burlap on has left some of it above ground. The exposed burlap can wick moisture up and away from the root ball. It's always important to get the root flare above ground level but leaving on the burlap can cause problems. I know that landscapers and many nurseries say that's ok. It just simply isn't true. You want good root contact with soil as soon as possible after transplanting. Burlap delays that. Pull off what you can.

This message was edited May 15, 2009 5:06 PM
I posted a picture of a large Hinoki because I missed the part where you said 'nana'. I have a small Hinoki too. I think the need even greater wind protection than their larger cousin.

This message was edited May 15, 2009 6:03 PM

Geeze O'Pete, that much winter burn? Holy Moley!

I think its an almost impossible situation to remove any of the burlap without
really disturbing the root ball. I am sure roots have grown out through it by now.

I will make double sure it has good watering this year, and I will probably wrap
it next winter. What is the best time to wrap a conifer for winter?

Sher

From your pic it does look like you can cut away the wad of burlap wrapped around the base of the trunk. Screen it with burlap in November. Never let any conifer go into the winter dry. Some winter burn occurs because the needles can't take up any moisture from frozen ground or dry ground. Some occurs because of extreme cold.

You think cutting away the burlap that is visible will help?
Sher

Yes. It's acting as a wick to draw moisture away from the soil and the roots. It keeps the bark on the lower trunk where it's wrapped damp and can foster rots and insects. Removing it won't prevent all the winter burn but it will help make a healthier plant. Cut away all visible burlap. Remove any grass from the entire root zone - the width of the plant plus at least 1' - a two foot diameter circle minimum. Mulch to a depth of 2" but keep the mulch away from touching the trunk - about 6" away. Keep it watered but not water logged. Don't fertilize this tree until you see good new growth, then only half strength. No fertilizer after July 1st. This tree is under a lot of stress. Fertilizer on a stressed plant is a sure way to kill the plant. Water it good just before the ground freezes and screen it with burlap for the winter.