That "false banana" is Ensete maurelii. They don't develop the heavy underground corm that the regular bananas do because they do not pup naturally. You can force them to pup but the method for doing it requires you to destroy the main growing point after the corm has reached a large enough size. Also, because they do not pup, if the main growing point dies and the corm has not accumulated enough stored food, the plant will die, even if it doesn't get killed by cold.
BTW, Kudos to you all who are overwintering bananas in what I consider to be the "arctic north" zones. Had I known years ago what you do now, I could have overwintered a banana plant in the ground at my grandma's house in Virginia successfully (late 1960s). As it was, I left it in the ground but with very little protection, even on the south side of the house. It didn't survive (but it wasn't a basjoo, either).
LariAnn
Info on Musa basjoo
Thank's for your post LariAnne and i just have to ask ...what part of Va. did your grandmother live? You must have been born a tropical loving girl;-)
Ok ....all you hardy banana grower's out there. Our Walmart's/Lowe's in my area introduced a different type of Musa to their sell's dept a few month's ago. The leave's have almost a "velvety" feel and the plant tag's say's (yes there are two) Musa "cheeka" and the other one say's Musa Minima. I am not finding much result's concerning this Musa via Google.
If anyone can add some more info. on this particular Musa, I would appreciate it. I broke down and purchased two because they were only a dollar;-)
Pic's added
Thank's
Rachel
Sorry Rachel I will be no help. I just broke down this past month a bought the musa basjoo and trying to find my way around that one. I'm going into this one blind just like I did with gardening in general but would be very interested if any one can help you. Hey Ill go look in the book DH got me for Christmas and see what I can find; Did you try goggling it?
Well I think I'll put my two cents in too, and at inflation rates I think it's up to about 10 cents now. Give your musa water water water water water and feed at least once a week with a good 20-20-20. Those basjoo's need the extra for that fast growing. For those growing banana's for the fruit, like a dwarf cavendish or super dawarf canvendish a good 5-10-10 if just fine. Even use fish emulsion. For my brugs I keep them watered and I feed them twice a week with a 20-20-20 and alternate with the fish emulsion too.
For those of us not fortunate to live in zones 6 and higher, as long as you put at least 3' of mulch over those roots of the basjoo you should have viable plants come spring :) I'll keep my fingers crossed for all of you. :) I figure it works for me it works, if not, try again and again and again :)
Rachel,
My grandma lived in Alexandria, Virginia. I grew bananas in Silver Spring, Maryland.
LariAnn
Ooops forgot one thing. When over wintering those basjoo's. Make sure that the ground is dry and not wet. Wet ground during winter mulching makes for rotten plants. :)
If it does produce fruit Rachel it'll be inedible. The basjoo is just for show :)
Oooooooo terribly sorry Rachel. That one I don't know anything about. I think we have a banana forum. You might check there as well or Banana.org.
this is all i could find on the web.
Musa 'Cheeka' MU8001
Compared to other known Musa varieties, Musa 'Cheeka' is a very compact and extremely durable banana with a thick strong leaf. It is available from Deroose Plants as a liner product and as a 6-inch finished product. Patent Pending. Breeder: Nardo Zaias.
It's must be really new since it's not even patented yet.
Rachel,
A friend of mine grows those micro banana plants commercially for wholesale distribution and he has them listed as "Truly Tiny" and "Little Prince". I imagine buyers might stick their own names on the plants just to make it look like they have something different. It happens a lot.
LariAnn
Aren't some of the new super dwarf varieties ornamental only? As I recall there's now a variety that can be used for border and fill plantings. I know that dwarf Cavendish will produce fruit, but some of the other varieties may not.
My "effort" for musa basjoo was picking a good microclimate (fully protected from west and north winds, at a corner in the foundation, mostly protected from southern winds.) I add two feet of leaves in the fall, which compress down to about 6" by spring time.
I do something similar with my palms. It's not an intensive effort, not any more intensive than digging glads or dahlias in the fall.
I also grow warm weather plants that were just not known for their ability to survive in this zone.
I'm pretty sure that musa sikkimensis, musella lasiocarpa, musa itinerans, and even a few species of edible bananas can be overwintered here. A nearby expert on bananas would be our own bwilliams. If you haven't seen his information, search for him in users and look at his photographs. He's in zone 6b -- but you'd never know it by looking at photos of his nursery in the summer. :)
-Joe
Hi Joegee, I am wondering if the one I purchased is not in the Cavendish family. The little reading I have done on Banana.org is leading me to think so anyway's. Mine does state that it can bear edible fruit though.
Any Yes, I do advise all to look/read concerning B. William's and his knowledge growing tropical's in his climate. He is pretty re-markable.
Rachel
Also, would you tell me which palm's you are growing outdoors.
Thank's
This message was edited Apr 15, 2009 3:03 PM
Rhapidophyllum hystrix, the common needle palm, sabal minor "McCurtain", and trachycarpus fortuneii are what I am experimenting with. In zone seven these should all grow easily for you. You could also try palms like chamaerops humilis, European fan palm. In a sheltered location you might be able to grow butia capitata, a favorite of mine, the hardiest pinnate leaved palm, pindo palm or jelly palm. :)
-Joe