Can this large branch be rooted?

South West, LA(Zone 9a)

I have this odd limb on my Bottle brush tree that I would like to try to remove and either root it or air layer it. Can someone tell me if its possible or is it just too big? Either way the limb has to go. I would like to try to save it thou.
If it is possible can you tell me how it could best be done.
Thank you!
Caren



This message was edited Mar 4, 2009 6:42 AM

Thumbnail by Heavinscent

I doubt very much you can root, or air lay it. Such pretty tree. If you want to save it, why not prune it to the height you want. It should send out new shoot that will develop branches. As it grows, you can train it to grow in the direction you want. I would cut to the ground the branch on the left that is leaning towards your house.

South West, LA(Zone 9a)

Yes, that is the limb that I want to remove and try to root. The rest of the tree will stay as it is.
Thank you
Caren

Powder Springs, GA(Zone 7b)

The only way I would see saving the wayward trunk is to split the root ball but you may risk killing the whole plant especially if you do a lot of damage to one or both trunks. What about cuttings?

Fruitland, ID(Zone 9b)

Why not give it a try if you're cutting it off anyway?

Dublin, CA(Zone 9a)

I don't think the big branch itself will root, but you could get hundreds of cuttings from the growth on the top part of it--I think you'd have better luck that way.

Barmera, Australia

G'Day
That looks like it could be Callistemon viminalis, they will not grow from big cuttings only the current seasons growth. A suggestion, if your only concern is the branch getting too close to the house why not tie it back by running a tie around the tree so as the other limbs support the leaning one. You would need to cover the tie rope/tape with a soft material (Car or truck tube) so it wouldn't cut into all three limbs.
Regards Brian

(Taylor) Plano, TX(Zone 8a)

ok...so if you really want to try it, just try to air-layer it to the scale of the tree...LARGE, lol...

I'd suggest you take a three gallon pot, and cut it down one side from the top, down, until you reach the bottom center drain hole. This way you can "hinge open" the pot(you may have to make the drain hole much larger, so that it will fit snugly around the base of the trunk), and then wrap it back closed around the trunk. They have black duct tape now, so you could tape the pot back together, once you got it secured around the trunk, to hold it together.

I'd run a knife around the bark only skin deep(don't cut into the white woody part of the tree, only just into the green cambium layer just under the outer bark). Strip off a section of bark skin a few inches above where it meets the rest of the tree, and then up about 7 inches, or so. Just make sure it will all be covered by the pot.

Then dust the exposed area of this branch with rooting hormone. Pack coir, or sphagnum moss around the "skinned" area, and then wrap or cover it somehow, so that the moss, or coir will not dry out too quickly...maybe a large clear lid of a round take out container, adapted to be a "lid" for the pot?

What I am trying to describe is sort of a homemade, and much larger version of this(scroll down for pictures):
http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/000661.php

An alternate way would be to use a 3 gallon pot at the base of it, like I described, but only score, or scratch vertical stripes in the bark, instead of removing a section of it and then fill the pot with potting soil. This might take longer, but will be less traumatic to the tree. It will hopefully eventually make roots where the scratches are, and the soil will dry out less often than moss, or coir...

Hey, if it works on a small scale, maybe it will work on a large scale, right?

It is worth a try, if that is really what you want to do... :0)

Thumbnail by seedpicker_TX
Gentry, AR

seedpickertx just introduced me to layering and i goggled and you might want to check out this site. the tree they air-layered look about 4-5 inch in diameter

http://www.cherryblossombonsai.co.uk/AirLayer.htm


thanks again "seedpickertx"
"whitebear"

(Taylor) Plano, TX(Zone 8a)

hahaha...thanks, whitebear!!!

That link is exactly what I was picturing, but wasn't sure how to explain it well. That is exactly what I was trying to describe, and great pictures!

Plus, how encouraging is that, that they did such a large specimen??!!

I thought it at least worth a try, but that links shows it certainly can be done. :0)

Gentry, AR

no problem "seedpickertx".
now that i have found this method no tree is safe. my apple trees and pear trees are asking them selfs why i'm looking at them so much now. hehehe.

(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN(Zone 6b)

Huh - great link!

(Taylor) Plano, TX(Zone 8a)

haha...
Air layering works really well on roses, and other plants, too :0)

-T

(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN(Zone 6b)

I would just never have thought it could work on such a large scale .... I wonder what the time frame would be - guess it would vary from plant to plant.

(Taylor) Plano, TX(Zone 8a)

If you read the link whitebear posted, it said that particular 6 yr. old tree took three months...same as any other air-layer :0)

(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN(Zone 6b)

>blush<

I can read, really!!!

(Taylor) Plano, TX(Zone 8a)

Pagancat-
no harm meant by that,.. just respoding to your comment:

Quoting:
I wonder what the time frame would be - guess it would vary from plant to plant.


-T

(Sheryl) Gainesboro, TN(Zone 6b)

LOL - no harm meant, none taken! Just laughing at my own ability - okay, disability - of missing things when I skim.

South West, LA(Zone 9a)

Well, for now I have the branch tied into the rest of the tree but it still doesn't look right. I will try the massive air layer but not holding much hope. Ill yet ya all know if it works. Thanks for all your comments and the link!
Take Care!!
Caren

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