Saving Seed * Collecting Seed * Drying Seed * Storing Seed

Basic Seed Saving
Table of Contents
Find links to specific seed saving instructions for 27 common vegetables. This online information comes from Basic Seed Saving, a 48 page paperback book written by Bill McDorman. It was created to provide enough practical information to allow gardeners to embark on the rewarding adventure of saving their own seeds

I n t e r n a t i o n a l S e e d S a v i n g I n s t i t u t e
http://www.seedsave.org/issi/issi_904.html

The Official Saving Our Seed Project Home Page
http://www.savingourseed.org/

Organic Seed Production Manuals
http://www.savingourseeds.org/growguides.html

[PDF]
Seed Saving Information
File Format: PDF/Adobe Acrobat - View as HTML
Seed Saving Information. Prepared by Marisha Auerbach.. All seeds are best preserved under cool and dry storage ...
www.herbnwisdom.com/SeedSavingHandout.pdf



This message was edited Aug 26, 2010 3:59 PM

Thank you for the links.

I think this forum could use a "resource" thread stickied at the top, so we have a good place to organize and post links like this...

:-)

I have saved perennial flower seeds for many years. The trick is to know when the seeds of different varieties are ripe to pick. Unripe seeds won't germinate.

Here is the information that I read somewhere at one time, which I have followed:
Seeds are ripe when the stem holding the seedhead is brown, and petals are dead. Plants cut off food supply to stems that bear blooms to save energy since it is no longer needed. I'm not talking about the whole stem, since they also send out side branches that produce flowers. I'm referring to the short stem or spur that the seedhead is attached to.

Best time to pick seeds from your garden is in the afternoon in sunny weather to reduce moisture in the seed head. Gather seeds late summer or fall since most seeds are ripe then. However, keep your eyes out to catch seeds before they are dropped.

Spread out your seeds on a kitchen paper towel in single layer and allow to dry for 2 weeks. If stored damp, the seeds will rot. During the drying time, stir the seeds so that each side will be exposed to air.

I store my seeds in plastic prescription containers since I happen to have them. They can also be saved in small glass jars. The contained should capped. Label it with name and year harvested. Paper doesn't work since it absorbs moisture.

I store my seeds in the refrigerator since perennials benefit from the low temperature when it is time to sow. Some I place in the freezer. All can be placed in a freezer. It will not damage the seeds. Keep out of sun. Dark is best.

As I have mentioned in another forum, I found a plastic shoe box of forgotten seeds stored in my garden shed for 3 years---with heat and cold, etc. In the box was seeds from 2002. I tested them this month, and they germinated fine in moist kitchen paper towels, called Deno method.

Seeds are tougher than is thought. They have to be for species to survive. In summary, the most important element is to pick when ripe, let them dry, store them in a closed container to enjoy the following season.

A note on hybrid plants---they do not come true from seeds. On the other hand, it is fun to see what exactly will come up. It could be something very unique and brand new. Gaillaridias are a perfect example in the second and third generation.

Blomma, you are a wealth of info, and apparently experience - thanks for sharing it with us! I'm lucky enough to post on some of the same forums with you.

Pagancat
Thank you for the compliment. I'm honored. You can follow in my trail anytime.

Although I have 45 years of gardening experience, I'm not too old to learn something new. The new for me this year, was the Deno method in the frig. And boy, it sure worked great!

On that note, I tried using the Deno method on tiny seeds such as Aubrieta (Rock Cress). These are old commercial seeds from 2005.

I dampened fine peatmoss and put it in a small clear plastic container with lid, then mixed the seed in the peat. Closed the cover and stuck it in the frig for 2 weeks. Took it out and placed it in room temperature. They germinated in 12 days. Then I just spread the peat/seed mix in a seeding flat and gently pressed it down. The seeds continued to grow and are now planted in a 6-pack. These seeds needed both light and cold stratificaton to germinate.

I impressed myself with that trick. LOL

I second critter's suggestion to sticky this thread. I'm a newbie at saving seeds so this is really useful info. Hopefully I'll have lots of seeds to share next year!

I add my request to sticky this, I know I am going to want to refer to it more than once......

Kyla

Me too!!! Did anyone actually ask admin?

pagancat
Here are the Aubrieta and Arabis seeds I sowed in 2 containers full of moist peat moss. Once germianted I spread the peat/seed mix in a flat of seeding mix. Photo taken before I transplanted them into 6-packs.

Actually, I think what we need is a resource thread with a link to this thread and links to other useful seed saving threads... see the resource thread at the top of the tomato forum, for example... a lot of forums have these threads, and they're useful.

Stickying this thread would be good... but a resource thread devoted to useful links (without extra chat so info is easy to find) would be better.

:-)

I vote you do it, Critter, heh...

Very nice, Blomma - so you're just pricking out the babies? They look awful close to me - I guess that's where the 45 years of experience comes in, eh?

You got it!!

I use a small pickle fork to dig up small seedlings---very carefully. I water with Miracle-Gro Quick Start Planting & Transplant solution to settle the soil. It stimulates root growth.

The tool I use to water tiny seedling and 6-packs with. Holds just the right amount in one squirt for 6-packs. Also gives gentle watering to small seedlings. It is made to suck up gravy and grease when cooking. Can be found in the cooking area in stores. The bulb is made of rubber. It works great!

I did seperate the Aubrieta seedlings


This message was edited Mar 30, 2009 12:09 AM

Lets see if I edit this one if it gets posted. I haven't been able to post more on this thread.

Now I can

The photo is of the watering gadget I use to water tiny seedlings. It is to remove grease from gravy. It has a rubber bulb to suck up water, then gently disperse it on the seeds and tiny seedlings. Works great.

This message was edited Apr 10, 2009 8:56 PM

blomma,
you've created a monster....I've got several windowsills full of little baggies w/ "paper towel" seeds as my D's SO calls them now...
and some in the fridge too...

mjsponies Great, the more "monsters" on DG, the better. Once you see how easy that method is , you'll never sow in soil again. What is great too is that you can sow as many or little plants that you need, without wasting seeds. Best of all, it is quicker.

Make sure that you check seeds every day, starting on the second day. They can sprout overnight. You want to plant them in seeding mix just as they sprout, shown by the beginning of a tiny root. Those roots can grow long before you know it. That makes it harder to plant since the roots are very delicate. If a root is entangled in the paper towel, cut the paper towel around the root and plant the whole thing.

To me, it is facinating to see how the root develops. How a plant can emerge from such tiny seeds is Nature in the raw. I missed all Nature's wonder when I sowed in soil. I have sprouted many different varieties of seeds this way that I had problem sprouting in soil.

Caption: Hardy geranium 'Vision' still in paper napkin just prior to planting in seed mix. Those that haven't sprouted are swelled and sprouted shortly after. This is a good stage of roots to be planted. I planted those with roots, and left the other in the paper. Those sprouted a few days later. I now have 12 geranium seedlings from these seeds. The seeds were taken from my own plant, which is a hybrid so hoping I will get something unique.

And here are those seedlings from those seeds.

pagancat Well, the 45 hmm, years did help. But I'm never too old to learn something new, which I did this year.

I did plant those and they are growing. Surprisingly the Aubrieta have flowering buds still in the 1-1/2" pot. Will be interesting to see what color. The original plant had red blooms. I'm not sure if it is a hybrid, or not.

I can't believe it - I've got two more baggies going with *no* results. I must be baggie cursed.

blomma, I really appreciate all the info, as am new to collecting seeds this year too. I do work in Casper once in awhile, so just may get in touch with you some time and pick your brain some more! Thanks again!

Thanks for the paper towel / baggie / fridge tip! Have you tried coffee filters to prevent roots from piercing the towel?

My hands are too shaky to use a turkey baster / grease syringe as a seedling watering can (see Post #6318377). And it only holds a little water. I use them to suck drainage water out of trays and saucers.

I use a ketsup bottle or mustard bottle for watering trays of sedlings. A little shake or dip while moving along a row in a tray releases a little squirt. The size of the opening, and the flimsiness of the walls of the bottle, determine the size of the squirt.

Or I can just move along the row while squeezing steadily, and get a steady stream.

I read that I "should" always water trays from the bottom, but that sounds drippy and there's no room left in my bedroom for another tray full of muddy water. Carrying them back and forth to the bathtub every few days? If I ever have copious spare time, and also cover those rugs with plastic!

I just switched from Dixie Cups to plastic inserts in an 11x21" tray: 32, 36, 50, 72, 98 or 128 cells per tray. I'm still figuring out what works, and these don't tip over like Dixie Cups. But I think they aren't deep enough for many plants.

I'm still trying to create a bigger, brighter area for starting seeds indoors: I now have four compact flourescent bulbs allegedly with 100W output each, on a stand. These are pretzel bulbs in mogul bases, not T5 tubes.

RickCorey_WA
Zone 8a

Rick, you can get "deep" 36 cell inserts (as well as ones that are about the size of a 3 or 4 inch pot). I use the #606 jumbo sheet pots from B&T's for tomato and pepper seedlings as well as petunias, etc... http://www.growersupply.com/sheetpots.html Looks like they don't have quite as many sizes as usual on that page, but you can ask about others.. I know I've gotten 48 cell inserts from them in the past.

I water from the bottom by putting 1/4 to 1/2 inch of water into the trays that hold the sheet pot inserts... not messy. :-)

We're pretty much off topic for this thread, though, so if we continue this propagation discussion we should probably start a new thread for it, so it can be found more easily.

Thanks Critterologist. Thiose, or a 48-cell deep sheet are on my wishlist for the next time I order and incur a shipping charge. The last places I ordered from were out of 606 Deep (or Jumbo) as well as their 18-cell deep sheet (3 rows x 6). I think it was called "1801D".

I guess if I just let the cells suck up all the water in the tray, or let excess water lie there, I don't have to spill mud in the hallway. I'll try that.

Off topic - yeah, true! Thanks for the reminder.

Rick Corey

one more OT post (apologies to those watching this thread who keep thinking it's being bumped up with seed collecting tips)...

I've found that as long as it's no more than 1/4 inch or so, it's ok to have some water left sitting in the trays with either 36 or 48 cell inserts... you don't want the roots to be flooded by half-filled trays, but a little excess doesn't seem to hurt, although I'd be cautious if you've got humidity domes on the trays.