propagation beginner

Landenberg, PA(Zone 6b)

This year I want to start trying to propagate certain plants myself for the first time.

I was thinkng of purchasing a grow rack with plastic cover - please see link.

http://www.horticulturesource.com/product_info.php/products_id/301

I have some questions.

to start off with I'd like to try propagating pelargoniums and delphiniums from stem cuttings taken in April and petunias and nemesias from stem cutting taking in late September. (do I have the timing right?)

How much time will pass before the cuttings become mature flowering plants?
Will the grow rack offer enough frost protection to over winter the rooted cuttings of the petunias, the geraniums and nemesias?(the rooted delphinium cuttings can go straight into the ground in late September - right?)

Do you think the grow rack with the cover closed will be suitable for getting the cuttings to root (or will I need to put a polythene bag over each pot as well? Won't that get too hot inside the bag?

Also for growing plants from seed - is the grow rack with the plastic cover closed the same as winters sowing? Or Indoor sowing. for example because the days from sowing to flowering for pansies is quite long will the pansies be ready in time for early spring if I sow them now and put them outside in the grow rack? how about if a get the seeds to germinate inside prick out to a tray and then put them outside on the grow rack - or will that be too cold?


Thanks.


Tulsa, OK(Zone 6b)

Hi: I bought a rack from harris seed. I ponied up for the delux package 4 shelves with floresent lights on each. 2 - 48" heating mats and a timer all for a bit over $1000.00.
What I have learned is one can be constructed for a lot less using a "bakers rack" & florescent fixtures from loew or home depot. The trays that came with the setup are grate and I would recomend buying those. I have 4 per rack and they run about 10.00 each. well worth the money.
As far as being winter hardy I think you would loose quite a bit of your plants outside with just a cover between them and the outside fridged temps. I have a small 8x10 green house which I love. its unheated and I lost a bunch of plants last fall when we had brutal lows over night. I am in zone 6b like you but I am not sure if you deal with the extream temp swings like we do. monday we got down into the single digits for a low and we are going to get out of "the freezer" today with a high almost to 70 and tomorrow we will be in the mid to upper 70's. I guess what I took the long way to explain is that unless they cuttings are in a heated invironment I would not risk it.
I would check out my thread series starting with the first one. Here is the link to the one we have going right now
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/940669/

Here is the begining
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/892721/

We are a loosely run bunch that has fun discussing the good and the bad of our growing.
I hope this helps
Dave
The cover will take the place of bags over each pot, in my opinion. Winter sowing, which I am trying thsi year is using a small container (I am using milk jugs) and filling it with a fwe inches of soil and sowing the seeds into the bottom. I cut the tos off mine and duct taped them together. They are against a brick wall in the shade wit mulch around the base.
I am doing my own seed growing inside on the rack. so far I have poppies, gazania and daylilies comeing up. I just planted 2 more trays with salvia & the gazanias.

I have WS for the last 2 years in Wyoming. I built a simple coldframe with a hinged top. The ony covering during the winter is chicken wire to keep out animals. I sowed perennial in it in October 2008. These are perennials that require stratification (cold treatment) to break dormancy. They will germinate in the spring when conditions for each variety is right for them. Last year from Oct 2007 sowing I sowed Aster alpinus, Echenacia and Callirhoe as an experiment. It worked to great. In 2008, I sowed much more. I leave it to Mother Nature.

I also use the coldframe for rooting cuttings in the late spring and through summer. The top has clear plastic and will hold a shade cloth when needed. I have started perennials in the house late summer and overwintered them in the coldframe. I couldn't garden without it.

When I lived in Nebraska, I owned and operated a commercial greenhouse on my property. It was 15 ft x 24 ft. long. Small but sufficient for my use. I specialized in drought resistant perennials, including Sedum and Sempervivum. I was the only one to offer them so did really good. Didn't need a greenhouse for them. Did have houseplants in the greenhouse.

As far as the lenght of time it takes for petunias to flower from stem cuttings I don't know. I do know that from seeds, they have to be sown in Feb. I have stated many from seeds. Also pelagonium cuttings. If I remember correctly, I started those cuttings in February. It takes time to root and pelagoniums need to be almost pot bound before they flower. Consider too that winter isn't a time when plants are in active growth. I lived in Massachusetts for 15 years before I moved. PA, like MA have lot of cloudy and overcast days. The sun when it peeks out isn't very strong either. That affect the growth of plants.

Good luck with your new hobby.




Caption: My simple coldframe before planting.

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