I think I have an issue

I have some seeds started in one of those little flats with a cover over it. I am getting condensation on the top cover. I think this is not a good thing, so my question is how to I fix it.

Thanks

Jenn

That is normal but you can always prop it up and vent the tray if you think the seeds are in danger of rotting.

I do not think they are going to rot. They are popping up like made, and seem to be doing okay. I did not use that much water on them at all. I have not watered them since I started because the soil seems moist...

I guess I will leave them be. This is the first time I have done this and did not want to mess it up.

Thank you

If there's so much moisture around that you have condensation on the top cover, I think it's a distinct possibility that you're going to have some things start to rot. I would definitely prop the cover up a bit to give them some ventilation. Once the seeds have sprouted they generally do better if they can get some air circulation anyway.

I will prop them up tonight... Thank you

When I see a little puff of mistiness on the inside of the lid, I figure the moisture level is about perfect. If I start seeing big droplets of condensation, then I know things are a little wetter than they should be -- time to prop the lid or remove it for a few hours during the day.

I poke about a dozen little holes in the plastic domes for my flats. That seems to help maintain a "just right" level of humidity by allowing a bit of ventilation.

Critter

I propped it up last night but now I do not know if I have dried it out. I figured I will take a look at it when I get home to see if I have anything on the plastic. I do not have holes in the top but I may stick in a few.

J

Jenn,

I have the same thing going on w/ my little flat. All the seeds have, yet to germinate though. So i will leave my lid on tell then. I don't want to poke holes in mine because I would like to reuse it.

Oh mine are popping up all over the place. I think I will have to take the lid off soon. The seeds are getting to long.. I need to get them strong enough to move outside because it is onions...

If I get too much water on my dome I just replace it with another and prop it open for a day or so, I keep extras just for this downstairs.

The next problem is mold. The potting mix my tomato starts were in last year developed a lovely crust of green mold--a shade between sea and emerald green. Used sterile mix and never figured out why some pots had it and others, right along side, did not. But the mold had no effect. Did nothing to address the growth and all the plants turned out fine.

My tomatoes are getting long, too. They just popped yesterday and are already leggy. Same thing with my cabbage. Good luck, Jenn.

I reuse my domes every year, holes and all. :-)

The green algae isn't usually a problem unless it gets so thick that it smothers seeds or doesn't let air down into the soil. Sounds like your mix might have been a little too wet.

Dean, if your tomatoes are on a heat mat, take them off... heat makes for very leggy tomato seedlings... I germinate them on a mat but snatch them off at the first sign of a sprout. Putting the lights very close to the tops of the seedlings (within an inch or so) is the best way to keep them from getting leggy. Leggy tomato seedlings can be transplanted as deeply as possible... buried stem will grow more roots... so that will help too.

I have not touched my tomatoes yet. I figured I will see when Critter starts hers and follow suit. The only reason I have my onions going is because they can go out soon and it takes a LONG time to get an onion from seed. I have no clud if it will work. I can only hope. I am going to have to thin them out and move them from the flat before long..

I have a list of things I need to work on.. UGH

My friend Irene seeds onions one by one into plug trays... I talked to her over the weekend, and I think she said she had seeded 2500 this year!

I start tomatoes 8 weeks ahead (following Carolyn's suggestions all the way)... since our planting out time is generally mid-May (unless you're thinking protection a la wall-o-water or other device), that means we'll be starting tomatoes mid March, Jenn.

I knew if anyone knew if would be you Jill! I just hope they do not get leggy.....

I have to drill holes now for the ones you told me to start on. :)

Okay, thanks critterologist. No heating mat here. I'll try to get them some more sun and keep turning them so they don't grow sideways. I don't have any grow lights either, I'm not that sophisticated, yet. LOL

Windowsill light is much less bright than you think, nothing like the sun outside... If you set up a fluorescent light, you'll get such sturdy seedlings! You'll never look back. Check out the article I wrote about light shelves, http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/464/. It doesn't have to be complicated or expensive... you don't need a "grow light," just a shop light with a couple of cool fluorescent tubes will do the trick.

I have been reading all of your post. This is my first time to start seeds. I love the idea using the 2 liter clear plastic bottles that so many have used. Some say to leave the red lid on(in fact showed that in their pictures) and vent with holes. Some say to leave the red lid off. So which is it? Also, I have a shop with about 6 overhead inset 2 by 4 flourescent lights. Should I put my bottles in there or outside on the porch? Thanks for any info. Too much trouble to do it wrong and alot of DG'ers have given me some really good seeds that I don't want to mess up.

Thankyou again for info
Debbie

Debbie, I start seeds inside under lights and I also winter sow. It depends on the type of plant & the germination requirements of the seed (that's why I put in all those links in the winter sowing and heat mat articles). Also, it depends on when you want blooms... you can use the winter sowing technique for petunias (although I'd do it in spring, more like direct sowing with added protection from containers), but they won't bloom until July. If you sow Petunias now, you'll have blooming plants by June.

If you leave the caps off the 2 liter bottles, you don't need to cut ventilation holes. Some people cut additional holes for ventilation as the weather warms up, sort of gradually transitioning the seedlings from sheltered to more exposed conditions. Others just remove the tops in one fell swoop (or remove them and then replace them at night if it turns cold again).

You don't need to use the bottles inside under lights... use pots, or cell packs, or plastic cups with holes poked in them for drainage... keep the seedlings close to the lights!

Thanks critter

Have fun! Let me know when you see those first little sprouts come up... that's so exciting! :-)

critter--are the lights for heat too?

They give off a little heat, but not enough to make much difference that I've noticed... maybe if you enclosed your shelf... but for a heat source (as an alternative to a heating mat), you need an incandescent bulb not a fluorescent one. Check out my Seed Starting 101 article on heat mats, too. :-)

dean--how did your leggy tomatos do? --wondering since mine are so leggy--am hoping you encourage me and say they are strong and healthy now!

They are still leggy for now. LOL!

but still living?!

But, still living I expect them to get stronger as time goes on.

ok--then i expect mine to get stronger too!