We want to plant quite a few trees and as I talk to 'tree people' I get very different opinions on planting.
Some people say the hole should be dug nice and large to make it easy for the roots to spread.
Others say that is the old philosophy--they say that now the trend is to plant trees in holes only slightly larger than their container since the tree has to live in the local soil, it needs to begin working at that.
Ack!
What should I do?
Teresa
The larger holes would have local/native soil. I'm still happy with the big hole pholosophy. I've seen enough street trees go in with small holes and a lot of them not survive.
I do small holes... but I ahve already helped the native soil here a lot.
It all depends on the soil for me. If the soil is loose and not compacted, I dig a smaller hole. If it's hard and compacted, I try to dig and till a larger area.
I always do a minimum of three feet in circumference (unless the root ball is larger which is rare). The three foot thing is because I want an area free of any grass or anything else that might compete as well as providing a mulched area to avoid lawn mover or string trimmer injury. DH is sometimes a little too thorough with trimming and mowing. What I don't do is to backfill with pure compost or any other pure soil amendment. If I do want to amend I add no more than 1/3 by volume. I think a lot depends on the tree and its inherent tolerance of your native soil conditions. Some tree just don't need much fuss, while others may need a little TLC.
Like most foresters, I T-notch plant my trees - use a spade to cut a notch, then cut another at right angles at one end (to make a T-shaped cut), lever up, slot the roots into the notch, and drop the soil back down onto the roots. 90% success rate. Obviously, only works well with small plants as typically used in forestry planting.
L-notch planting is very similar, with an L-shaped pair of cuts.
Resin
Planting from a pot:
Good or sandy soil >> small hole. Sides slightly loosened after planting, but before watering. (Your pot ball should have already been loosened.)
Clay and compacted soil >> WWW i i i d d d e e e hole, and with sides and bottom slightly loosened with a digging fork.
I don't think the hole ever killed or stunted a tree. If it doesn't like your climate, soil or pests, then it won't do well anyway. If you've chosen the right tree, just enough to bury it would be best. they'll quicky outgrow your amended area anyway, or they should!lol
Call your county extension agent he can send you free information on how to plant a tree the correct way.
What's the thinking on mulching around a tree?
What are your thoughts on staking a tree?
Today I had a tree company plant 9 twelve foot blue spruce trees. I was surprised that the root balls were not that big considering how tall the trees were. My soil is sandy top soil for about 20 inches then it gets more into clay. They mulched and staked since it's very windy here and in the spring it's very wet. I have a lot of wind here since I'm by the lake.
I want to give these trees the best chance possible of living. Any tips other than keeping them watered?
[Quote]Today I had a tree company plant 9 twelve foot blue spruce trees. I was surprised that the root balls were not that big considering how tall the trees were. .... I want to give these trees the best chance possible of living. Any tips other than keeping them watered?[Quote]
Hmmm . . . Tricky. I'd send them back and buy from somewhere else that doesn't hack off most of the roots.
Resin
The American Horticultural Society reccommends staking no more than 2 growing seasons. Other sources claim only one season is necessary. Staking should still allow the trunk to move. If staked too tightly the roots and trunk don't develop properly. I usually remove the stakes after one growing season. I had a Chamaecyparis nootkatensis Pendula professionally planted this past April in a moderately windy site. The root ball was so small (less than a bushel basket in size) compared to the height of the trunk (15') that I'm leaving the stakes in for a second season. I also had to loosen the trunk ties to allow for movement. It has a fair amount of sway before the stakes take over and provide support. We had wind gusts up to 70 mi hr last spring.
Thanks for the responses Resin and Snapple.
I can't send the trees back. I got the trees for free. THe tree company just moved them for me. I have a friend who had a whole field of blue spruce that he planted as seedlings years ago and he wanted them thinned out. His soil is similar to mine plus his field is very wet in the spring like mine is. I figured these more mature trees would adapt better here since they are in the same conditions. I probably get more wind is the only difference. I say the rootballs looked small to me. I'd guess them to be about 3 foot deep and 4 foot wide. That seems little for a twelve foot tree but maybe it's not ??
The stakes are not real tight. The trees are swaying a bit in the wind already. I just want to make sure the wind doesn't blow them over or the spring floods don't yank them out of the ground and they go floating down my ditch to the lake. :(
I got the trees for free. I only had to pay the men to dig them and move them to my place. I bought the mulch. I'm hoping the mulch will prevent them from heaving out of the ground this winter since they won't have a ton of time to root in before a hard frost comes.
OK, that's very different, then!
I'm afraid I'd not be too confident of good survival with small roots, but to improve chances, water deeply before the winter sets in, and water again as soon as the soil starts to dry out next summer. Mulch will help too. In hot weather next summer, spray the foliage with water frequently, as well as watering the roots.
Resin
Thanks Resin,
I've managed to stretch enough hose down the field to water all the trees. I've been watering all day it seems like. I've tried to time it so the hose is on each rootball for 45 minutes. I hope that's enough. I just laid the hose on the ground up by the trunk. I've got to go move it again. I have 3 more trees to go.
It got down to 28 degrees here last night and they're predicting another light frost tonight. Do you think I should keep up this same watering schedule for a week or what? Every day or every other day?
I hope I don't run my well dry. :(
I appreciate all the advice.
Brenda
Keep up that watering schedule and all your soil will be washed away. lol! I would just water them in and wait a week.
OK, I'll wait a week to water them again. I'm sorry to seem so dumb about this stuff. I really have no experience transplanting these big of trees. I do want them to thrive. They look so good. A few of them even came with readymade bird nests for good luck.
The deer were so surprised to see big trees. They were really checking them out again last night. :)
Does anyone thing spraying the trees with Messenger now would be of any benefit? I have a lot of Messenger here. If not now, then next spring? When do I feed them? I have evergreen fertilizer by Hollytone I think it is.
Brenda
There are no dumb questions Loon. This late in the season dont fertilize with anything. Hollytone would be great next spring. Messenger has been mentioned several times on Daves Garden but as I have no experience with it I cant help there. As to watering if you get the usual November rains that should be sufficient moisture, otherwise dont let them go dry into the winter. When soil temps fall below 40 dormancy begins. Have you considered staking burlap as a shield againt wind? It might give them the extra edge from bitter cold drying winds. It would not be necessary next year. Just this first winter.
Oh my. Trying to put burlap around these trees would be very hard for me. They are at least 12 feet tall and pretty big around. I do have them staked well. We do get a lot of wind off the lake. I'll just have to say a little prayer for them every day. Maybe we'll get a good snow cover this winter.
We haven't had any rain. Every time the weatherman says we're going to get some it goes everywhere but here. :( I'm in a wetland/flood plain but it's dry dry dry.
I've been told this is the best time of year to plant trees and shurbs. Is that right?
Up here, it's a very good time for trees and shrubs that drop their leaves. But for evergreens, it's pretty late. Our winters are colder, more sunny, windier and with drier air than yours. But I would still guess it's not the optimal time for you.
12 ft? Well had I read that I sure wouldn't have suggested burlap! lol Just make sure that that the root balls and surrounding soil have moisture up until the ground freezes. Dessicating winter winds could be a problem. Short of parking a couple of semi-truck trailers on the windward side there isn't much you can do about the wind. There are mixed reviews about Wilt-Pruf.
http://www.wilt-pruf.com/
In your situation I'd be tempted to give it a try.
Well, hubby is a trucker. :) I'll ask him if they have any spare trailers we can borrow till next spring. :)
Wonder how many cases of WIlt-pruf I'd have to buy to cover 9 twelve foot trees?
Oh well. They're in the ground. If nothing else they'll look great this winter with snow on them. They could just wind up being some expensive outdoor Christmas trees. :) I did at least mulch around the rootballs well. I do have good soil too. I hope they'll be happy. Maybe I can go out and talk to them every day and tell them how happy I am to have them living here with me. :)
Thanks for all the advice. I'll let you know next spring how it worked out.
