To Nick or Not

After seeing Gardenpom mention having never nicking morning glory seeds, I have to confess, neither have I, nor have I soaked them.

It seems the majority, in reading the posts do nick their seeds. Is there a specific location as to where you nick them? Are there certain types you nick and certain types you don't nick? Has anyone done any experiments as to the benefits for or against nicking seeds?

X

About the only benefit that I see is that they germinate alot faster and the seed coats come off easier. I nick everything, from tree seeds to vine seeds, if it can be nicked, it gets nicked and soaked...lol

One observation I made this year is that the seeds that I nicked with my Dremmel seemed to have more trouble shedding the seedcoat. It was like there was a burr on the edge of the nick that hindered the coat sliding off. This was the first time I nicked JMG seeds. My second batch this year were not nicked nor soaked and are germinating fine...just a few more days til I see them. This batch has less trouble shedding the coat.

It might just be a problem with using the Dremmel and cutting disc....it is never a problem with cannas which are monocots, leaving the seedcoat underground.

Arlan

It does seem to take the seed coat longer to soften up, than for the seed to swell up during soaking methods. The seed has life in it and is more dynamic. The seed coat has no further destiny. The speed of the moistened seeds, finishing the short chapers in the germination dynamic, is extremely dynamic. When compared to the extremely slow absorbtion of moisture by the resinous and waterproof seed coat, the embryo finishes the book before the seed coat has finished chapter one.

I am saying this after watching 10 species every day since the 28th. They all germinated in 5 days, some in 3 or 4. I think the domesticated varieties are much easier, because they do not have the extreme thickness of seed coats that you encounter with a wide variety of all species (all that I can get).

In the future, I think, when it comes to species, I am going to be more patient, and give the seed coats more time to soften, and the embryos less moisture.

Frank

On my next batch, I'll nick half in various places and leave other intact and see what happens.

X

There's alot of variables in this equation...probably too many for a yes or a no answer...

previously mentioned in some threads e.g., here
http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/588062/
http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/677449/
http://davesgarden.com/forums/p.php?pid=3257095
http://davesgarden.com/forums/p.php?pid=3058590
http://davesgarden.com/forums/p.php?pid=3345789

Some of the variables include

the species,the age of the seed(s),the relative dormancy ratio of any particular batch of seeds,heat,light,humidity,hydrostatic pressure and alot of other factors...

Commonly grown 'cultivars' often have a high initial germination rate if the seeds are very fresh...very fresh seeds are not always available...

Relative dormancy factors in seeds are what has kept plants going for multi-millions of years...some seeds are designed by nature NOT to sprout right away or respond to quick germination techniques...quick germination techniques are often very helpful to that population of seeds that will respond postively,but seeds that have a dormancy factor that needs to see something other than the usual quick start techniques can be killed by fast start methods...

The seedcoat offers some protection from pathogens before the embryo is ready to germinate and has been found to modulate the effect of minerals that can play a part in the overall germination process...the seedcoat also acts like a 'hammer' to assist the seedling to push upwards through any planting mediums and seedlings which lose their coats prematurely may have difficulty moving upwards through any material with which they may be covered...

Seeds that will respond positively to a rapid germination environment techniques will often germinate faster if the seedcoat is nicked to allow the water(and whatever the water contains) to access the embryonic tissue faster/easier...and one or more full or partial cuts can often allow the seedcoat to be shed more easily...

The most common MG's most often do not require cuts into the seedcoat,but it usually won't hurt if done carefully...if you grow out enough seeds though you're bound to encounter a seedling that has difficulty shedding the seedcoat...and if it croaks...you'll sure wish you made some pre-emptive scores to prevent the seedling from dying from a stubborn seedcoat that will not come off...

I make full or partial scores longitudinally from the hilium to towards the distal end of the seed...it is essential that you do not cut into the radicle >primordial root or you can destroy the ability of the seed to grow any roots...practice makes perfect...any scoring should be done gently when you perceive that any cut that you are making is down to or very close to the embryo...
the radicle runs along the back of the seed roughly about a quarter of the length of the seed...
if you make a careful and strategic full or partial score along the back being careful not to damage the radicle and or any other cuts longitudinal to the hilium these type of scores can prevent a seedcoat from clinging to the death of the embryo...
the ideal is that the seedcoat may offer assistance and/or protection and yet split easily along the scores to be easily shed when it offers no further assistance...

I've previously mentioned my tools of choice in the post here
http://davesgarden.com/forums/p.php?pid=3132693
a hacksaw or sawzall blade lightly held between the thumb and index finger also works well...
others may use a ballpene hammer or a nutcracker or whatever you find works for you...

TTY,...

Ron