GW,
Thank you! Those Cliff notes were exactly what I needed to know about why you do the 2 step process. I do plan to read the Bokashi threads but probably not until next winter.
Maggie
vermicomposting
Ah, the amaizing Maggie. Normally when I read an article I like to be able to find at least three things which I find new and interesting. Maggie's #1 and #3 hperlinked articles I down loaded to my DG word vermiculture files are loaded with red font changes. Threre is easily enough information here for some very interesting discussions. With what I have read so far on worm casings, and comments from docgripe and others, I am reconfirmed. In other words just stop messing around and use the stuff as is!
Most of what I read in the three articles was positive except for one statement down playing the use of vermicomposting on a larger scale to reduce various types of waste products including toxic wastes. I quote, "It turns out that worms used in composting emit a greenhouse gas -- nitrous oxide -- which is hundreds of times more powerful than carbon dioxide. Unfortunately, in terms of greenhouse gas emissions, large-scale composting plants could be just as damaging to the environment as landfills of the same size, reports the UK's Telegraph newspaper." Personnaly I think this is a short sided statement, but enogh on that subject.
From a personal standpoint this comment was a favorite. "According to NatureWatch, earthworm castings have five times as much nitrogen, seven times as much phosphorous, 11 times as much potassium and 1,000 times more "beneficial bacteria"
***Just one pound of worms can turn 1.3 million pounds of raw manure into high quality fertilizer in around 60 days, according to ScienceDaily.*** I'm still trying to get my mind around that one.
Worm compost:
• improves soil quality;
• prevents plant diseases;
• speeds up seed germination;
• combats soil erosion;
• increases the soil's ability to store water (thereby diminishing the amount of water needed by the trees and plants);
• and, according to The Ecologist, "fixes heavy metals and reduces mineral leaching from the soil."
And that one just about sums it up for me...thank you Maggie.
I have been reading on this forum for about 2 weeks now. I finally got enough nerve up to try vermicomposting. I ordered my worms and bought two storage bins for the worms. Now I am just waiting for my worms. I work for the post office so I can find out when I am going to get the worms. I am really excited to get started. I have read some about Bokashi. Should I try to do both worms and Bokashi or just stick to the worms for now. Then after I figure out the worms try the Bokashi? Is Bokashi that good?
Bokashi, totally rocks!!! Do read the Boksahi threads carefully though as this subject is not hard to do but complex to understand since there are many variables involved.
MRaider, I agree completely- vermicompost is a living thing, killing it w/ H2O2 and other disinfectants inactivates what we and our worms worked so hard to achieve.
frank316
I wouldn't throw you off Bokashi as I plan to learn to use it myself. However- I think learn to do the worm bin first so you can learn to balance the moisture levels and learn the basics.
Moisture is something lots of newbies have concerns about. They don't necessarily have problems but they do have concerns. What I have found is that the worms move to areas that are wetter than common wisdom suggests ("like a wrung out sponge"). As long as you have good drainage so you don't have standing water it will work out. The proper temperature is very important for them to breed, not too hot or cold, so you get more worms quickly. The last thing I can think of off the top of my head is in most cases, don't waste time fluffing the worm bin- that's their job. Now if the bottom layer is flat saturated and compacted, there may be some benefit to flipping it on top so it can dry out a bit.
Welcome,
Maggie
Thanks for your sugestions. I got my worms over the weekend. I fixed the bedding and closed the lid. I have been looking into the bin but not disturbing the worms. Today I looked at them and all the worms were at the top of the bin. I put more newspaper in the bin to dry it up. Hope I didn't put to much in. I have the bin a my basement. Will the high humidity affect the worms? My dehumidifier broke so it is very humid.
No, humidity is fine as long as they don't hve to swim. the worms typically take a while to settle in (1-2 weeks avg). How long in advance did you set up your bin? Worms don't eat the food we put in, they eat the mold on the food & byproducts of other worm bin inhabitants. If you set it up the day you got your worms, don't worry, there is usually enough food in the media your received with your worms to tide them over until your stuff gets started. That said, you might be able to boost things a little by adding some moldy bread soaked with some fruit juice, over-the hill strawberries, or some other past its' prime sweet thing. Just don't over do it and load up the bin with lots of stuff like an outdoor compost pile- it will heat up and the worms won't be happy. If you put your additives on one side, they can go to it if they want and void it if they need to. You can leave them a light trail across the worm bin to the main food supply if you want.
Have fun,
Maggie
maggie...there you go again with another mind blowing statement...worms don't eat the food we put in...they eat the mold. Man have I been missing something here. First I have heard that one. Actually I have limited the amount of moldy stuff I add when blending the vegetable and fruit peeling thinking I might over do it. So what I'm hearing is that the added food must mold first before the worm will injest it. Maybe that's why blender fed scraps seem to work so well for me. Tell me more maggie TYP!
Hi all, I'm still quite new with vermicomposting, but anyone can help me identify the following attached image and sort out what kind of worm is that? I just had to be sure that im using the right type of worms. Do they have different colours due to the environment that they are in? Mine is in a composting bin about 1.5 feet in diameter. Thanks.
mraider- I think that a lot of mold is microscopic. the worms eat what we don't even see yet. Hyphae etc probably are rampant in the goopy slime around our veggies we put in there but I agree. The processed stuff surely grows it faster. That said, I refuse to cook for worms and just try to feed them occasionally so something is always rotting. I'm not telling my guys how you and GG prep their food for them or they'll go on strike or something. they may not poop for me.
Maggie
Maggie...I had several buckets full of rotting tomatoes from the end of last season. I had been adding a cup or so to each blender full and worms seemed do fine on this mixture. Problem was the smell of the rotted tomatoes was getting to me, but there were no ill effects to the worm bins. Media never soured and retained its earthy smell no mater how much of this I fed. I guess I could call this a semi-Bokashi...but like you say theres a limit to how much effort I will put into feeding worms. This year I will retain all the moldy produce in a thirty gallon pail w/ lid, but I will keep it in the shed and let it ferment. Who knows, I might even toss in some Bokashi!!!
It will smell better with the Bokashi! :D
mraider3,
If I had that much tomto soup, I'd definitely check into Bokashi! Lots of wet summer fruits/vegetables are something I struggle with. Check with GM, I think she has the key for that sort of problem. Please learn it in depth, run some case controlled studies, and let me know what you get. ;-) I'd like to do it when I have more time.
Thanks,
Maggie
This message was edited May 1, 2008 9:45 PM
We need a new thread for this discussion - it takes to long to load!
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Lets continue our discussion here http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/842300/
Maggie