Verticillium Wilt Questions

I had a large Norway Maple in my front yard that was always sickly the last few years. It had dead or dying branches on one side, the branches would leaf out and then wilt, and it was kind of ugly besides. (not to mention the hundreds of saplings nearby) When I cut it down I saw the blackened wood that makes me think it was the Verticillium wilt that was eating it. Now it's just an almost flat stump in the yard.

In reading about Verticillium, I see that the fungus can stay in the soil after the tree is gone. I'm looking at trees that are resistant, but I have a couple questions. Is it important to try to remove the old tree's roots? I'd like to plant something near the same location. I suppose removing as much as I can is a good idea anyway, but it was a big tree, and I don't really mind having the old roots in the lawn... compared to all the work involved, if it's just an appearance issue-

Also, can the fungus be spread by the chainsaw and polesaw blades? Should I sterilize them somehow? Will the Flyers ever win a game? Thanks

Gratuitous photographic documentation

? It was tricky not hitting the house or power lines, I took my time

The light at the end of the tunnel

The Jones', who will not be kept up with. They have a bunch of Cornus kousa seedlings going out back

you will soon get much more expert advice than this- but, actually, i had a very similar story in my own yard--a huge old ailing norway maple.. we took it down- except for the acer pseudosieboldianum seedling tree I planted shortly thereafter, which definitely began to suffer, nothing else much has.....can I venture to say that you shouldn't plant a maple of any sort.?? ViburnumValley wisely suggested I ask my extension agency.....

Yes, I expect it is a common story...I wouldn't mind another different maple, but it doesn't seem to be in the cards. That's too bad about the pseudosieboldianum. I should ask the county extension, that's agood idea, thanks

claypa, what about a nice Bur Oak?

Describe the leaves of your tree if you can remember them before you cut it down. Maybe you didn't have a Verticillium Wilt but Maple Anthracnose. There are a number of possibilities because Norway Maples seem to be susceptible to a lot out there and trunk decay is not uncommon either.

Your chainsaw could probably be sprayed with Lysol. You'd probably want to oil it after that. Maybe you better check with an arborist because all of my equipment that I need to disinfect I dip in bleach and leave sit for a bit but I don't know if I'd want to dip my chainsaw in a 10% bleach solution. You raise a good question because I never really thought about disinfecting my chainsaw. I only use it to take trees down and all of what I'm taking down is an invasive species such as a Norway Maple, White Mulberry, Russian Olive, and lots and lots of Buckthorn. I could care less if those types of trees get infected with anything.

Here's a thread that might have a little bit more information for you on Verticillium Wilts but removing more of the tree's roots would have little effect if any to the best of my knowledge because you'd be dealing with a soil born fungal disease-
http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/599257/

I believe I had this problem with a red maple a few years ago. It had the same symptoms you described. I cut it down and burned it because I didn't know what disease it was. I have not noticed it in any of the other maples but I do keep an eye out for it.

There was quite a bit of discussion regarding disinfecting tools back on GW several years ago. There were some great inputs of information and links, none of which I saved. However, the upshot is that Lysol is not only the most economical way to go, but the most effective, even more effective than bleach. Not only that, but Lysol will not pit, corrode, or in any other way destroy your metal tools, which bleach most definitely will do.

Now, how to clean a chainsaw chain? First, remove the chain and bar. Wipe away all oil and tree residue from the body of the chainsaw with a clean rag, spray with Lysol, and then a light coating of light oil. Dip the bar and chain in soapy water and then clean with a jet of water from a hose. Spray with Lysol. Spray with light oil. Reassemble.

Scott

Thanks for your replies. Equilibrium, I like the Bur Oak suggestion. I wasn't thinking long term or big enough, an Oak would be good there, and I could still have room for some smaller tree. As best as I can remember, a few branches on one side would wilt suddenly in summertime. The leaves were green, I didn't notice how they discolored after that. The ends of a few branches were always dying. I'd prune them, and another would get sick. There was a black stain streak through the wood that went from the branches to the ground, and the trunk had a big dripping scar. I studied pictures of a few diseases, and the description of Verticillium wilt seemed to fit the best. I could have sent samples to the state to be sure, too late now I guess.

I do have occassion to use the chainsaw to prune a branch or two on healthy trees, so I was curious to know if it's an issue. I never thought about it before some of the Hosta forum people discussed dis-infecting their pruners between cutting scapes on different plants, they have a virus issue to deal with.

So, no reason not to plant a resistant tree next to the old one? I can live with what's left of the stump, I guess. Thanks again, Mike

Go with your gut claypa, you'll be right more times then not. And I don't see any reason to err on the side of conservatism by planting a resistant species.

Bonide has a product called Stump Out. If you don't want to pay to have someone come over and grind it out, perhaps you could look at trying that product.

Claypa, you could consider planting Dawn Redwood, it is fast growing and hardy down to zone5.