Pruning a Viburnum dentatum

On the banks of the , VA(Zone 7a)

Hoping an expert appears...

How/when best to prune this thing?

I HATE not being able to sit on my porch and look out.

(Sorry to be a thread-piggy, someone suggested if I put Viburnum dentatum in the title I'd get better opinions.)

This message was edited Nov 7, 2006 7:31 AM

Thumbnail by luna_baby
Scott County, KY(Zone 5b)

Lunytunes:

Be careful what you ask for...

Your stated goal is a view to a kill (no, wait, that's a Dutch creek or something) or to a pond. So, some serious whacking needs to take place.

If you take this down to 6" (15.2 cm) or so, that's called rejuvenation. This arrowwood will shoot new shoots (like arrows, or at least like the shafts thereof) up to 6' (182.9 cm) by the end of summer.

If you don't want the plant to grow back into your view, then plan to move it after the rejuvenation. If you like the plant, but don't want the effort of digging and transporting this monster, prune all those stems back during the winter and "live stake" them. See this link for what I mean:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/fletcher/staff/rbir/livestakes.html

Presto! Cut branches = new plants.

If you really like arrowwood, and want to achieve full delight, find another clone to go with what looks like two identical plants that you currently have. Cross-pollination does wonders for this species, as well as most other viburnums. See this windy thread:

http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/568744/

Let me know if this makes sense, or no.

Southern, NJ(Zone 6b)

Ah, luna_baby, like a bear to honey, yes? :wink:

VV, if luna_baby plants her sticks, they all will be clones that won't cross-pollinate, right?

Is there any way for luna_baby to know which cultivar she has (if she has one)? I ask because I planted two V. dentatum "Morton" (according to the labels anyway), so I know what I [i]don't[/i] want for my cross-pollinator. I'm looking for any one other than "Morton". Haven't found any others in nurseries or garden centers this Fall.I have found lots of V. dentatum growing where I walk my dog. (I'm almost positive of my ID because I take snips back to compare to what I've planted.) All the land used to be one farm. Some is now township owned and other is private business in non-landscaped left over woodsy area. I'm thinking of asking permission to dig up one or two smaller plants that I assume come from seed because there are so many of different sizes. If my ID is correct, these little plants would be cross-pollinators, right? Or not?

Also, how long after cutting does the stick need to be planted? (I can send luna_baby a "Morton" stick if it can be shipped.)

Thanks.

Kalispell, MT(Zone 4b)

I see that if a plant needs pruning to restrict its growth you have the wrong plant where it is. I am fortunate where I plant such mistakes and find out that a move is better than a prune. I would change to a new plant and remove and give or relocate the plants on both sides.

Scott County, KY(Zone 5b)

notfaroffthemark:

Live stakes will be clones of the parent plant; good for making more of them, not for pollination.

Probably the only way to home in on what clone luna might have, is to canvass what is normally sold On the banks of the Potomac and compare it to the illustrated plants. I'd guess it to be one of the Big Three that have been widely sold over the last 10-15 years (Autumn Jazz®, Chicago Lustre®, Northern Burgundy® -- all selections out of Chicago). With a couple seasonal closeup shots, I could probably name it from here. My computer here at home can't help me much, but if I see some mild attempt at pinkish fall color, then I'd rate this one as Chicago Lustre®.

Found seedlings could very well be cross-pollinators, if they have overlapping bloom time with your 'Morton' (Northern Burgundy®). Let me say I'd be skeptical, since the provenance is quite different. Take some pics of the babies you are finding (better yet, send me some! I'll trade you for what your arrowwood really desires...).

Proper handling of live stakes is described in the link I posted, but as a general rule: don't let the wood dry out. Some folks immerse the cut branches in water until they are ready to install, but that shouldn't be terribly long (a couple days, maybe). If shipping somewhere, make sure the cut branches are kept quite moist in transit and don't freeze them.

Southern, NJ(Zone 6b)

Some pictures of the wild ones. Are there two, and are they both dentatum? Leaf shape looks the same but some have finer leaves than others. They don't seem to be coloring at quite the same time, either. If the time of coloring dependent on how much sun they get?

Thumbnail by notgrnjean
Southern, NJ(Zone 6b)

another

Thumbnail by notgrnjean
Southern, NJ(Zone 6b)

More

Thumbnail by notgrnjean
Scott County, KY(Zone 5b)

Those pictures look like Viburnum dentatum, though they could be V. recognitum or some other variant in the whole range of these related viburnum species. They should all be able to cross-pollinate, if they overlap in bloom time.

The time of coloring could be dependent on sun/shade exposure; aspect (whether the slope of the land is north, south, east, or west); or simply genetics.

Wouldn't you rather have a woodland full of arrowwoods, than Asian honeysuckle, ivy, burning bush, wintercreeper euonymus, and Asian bittersweet?

Hendersonville, NC(Zone 7a)

Yet another question on cross-pollination. I planted two v. dentatum 'Blue Muffin' late last spring, but don't know if they are seedlings or clones. Any suggestions on what I might plant for cross-pollination? These two have not flowered yet, so I have no clue on bloom time to date.

Scott County, KY(Zone 5b)

Spartacus:

If you have planted two Viburnum dentatum Blue Muffin®, then you have identical plants (thus clones). Identical plants do not pollinate themselves well, though you will probably get some fruit.

In order to encourage heavy fruiting via cross-pollination, you want to plant dissimilar arrowwoods that have overlapping bloom times with your existing Blue Muffin® shrubs. Here in central KY, the arrowwoods that have overlapped in bloom time with the early-blooming Blue Muffin® include:

•Cardinal™
•Crimson Tide™
•'Perle Bleu'
•Red Regal™
•Indian Summer™
•Chicago Lustre®
•Little Joe™
•Red Feather™

All these selections are out of the greater Chicago area, and may or may not be available to you. You may find other choices available locally in NC that have appropriate bloom times. Best bet is to visit arboreta or botanic gardens with viburnum collections to observe what blooms when.

Finding a blooming plant on a garden center lot is no guarantee; these plants are usually "started early" in greenhouses somewhere to generate earlier spring sales.

Southern, NJ(Zone 6b)

A Virburnum starting out for say two years in Illinois and then taking up residence in NJ - could/would bloom time change with climatic differences? Not dramatically but maybe 2-3 weeks earlier or later? Nature versus nurture?

In an earlier post on this thread you said that the "wild" arrowwoods I've found probably won't have overlapping bloom times with my Mortons. Why do you think that?

I sure would rather have a woodland of arrowwoods instead of those awful invasives you mentioned earlier, However, I'm thinking I may need a few acres of arrowwoods to chance upon some cross-pollinators with the right bloom times! I haven't seen any arrowwoods in the street-visible portions of yards in my neighborhood, though of course I may be missing some. I may find out differently next Spring, but I think I'm going to have to plant my own cross-pollinator.

Edgartown, MA(Zone 7a)

Wonder if it is worth repeating that HACKING DOWN this Viburnum now, that is blocking your view then come late winter sharpening the shovel, getting a good length of chain, oil the old trailer hitch and drag this beauty to the other side of your yard where it can grow free, free, free at last might be your best choice. kt

Scott County, KY(Zone 5b)

Msgrnjeans:

The actual date of the bloom time may change (for the example of an IL-bred arrowwood, planted in NJ), but the sequence in which it blooms relative to other provenances won't. To explain further...

I have about 25 (and counting...) different clones/sources of arrowwood that I'm trialing here at the Valley. I am keeping record of the sequence in which they bloom. Those records are the source of the recommendations that I provide for partners in cross-pollination.

The behavior of the plants will be related to the genetics from which they derive. Plants of Viburnum dentatum originating in the northeast US won't behave exactly like Viburnum dentatum originating in the upper midwest US nor like Viburnum dentatum originating in the southern US. One wouldn't expect the hardiness to be exactly alike; the same holds true for when the plants will bloom. Variations in foliage color/texture; growth rate; form; and fall color also vary.

Thus the source of my comment about native NJ seedlings' bloom time relative to the IL-sourced 'Morton'. I'm happy to be proved wrong...show me pictures when it happens, and send me scions of your seedlings.

Planting your own known cross-pollinator should ensure heavy fruiting on it and 'Morton'.

Southern, NJ(Zone 6b)

Hokay. Will send you sticks of the "wild" Viburnum dentatum, and/or V. recognitum whenever you're ready (as long as that's after about 8 days from now if that will work). I've sent a Dmail to you.

Elburn, IL(Zone 5a)

Runk:

No need to hack it down if she is moving it!

Hendersonville, NC(Zone 7a)

Thanks, VV, for the suggested cross-pollinators for my identical v. dentatum. Surely I'll be able to find at least a couple of them in this area, and there's always room and reason for more viburnums, right?

Scott County, KY(Zone 5b)

Can't have enough viburnums...

Post a Reply to this Thread

Please or sign up to post.
BACK TO TOP