I know, I know...if you've seen one pod you've seen them all.... Sorry, some, well most, are a little blurry. Guess I was out pardying too late last night.
First up, speciosum rubrum X Late Pink.
This message was edited Oct 1, 2006 12:32 PM
This summer's crosses...
Conc d'Or X Griesbach tet apricot trumpet.
Summer's End X Late Pink
American West X Greisbach tet apricot trumpet
Silk Road X ?
The tag got blown off but my usual method is to cross like x like so I'll take a shot at Altari
Late Pink X speciosum rubrum
Summer's End X Sumatra
The POD VILLAGE. I intermated like x like, ie, purple x purples and picotee x picotee. If I get good seed from any of these crosses it should make for some interesting seedlings on down the road...
In addition, there are now 4 canadense seedlings up:
And an example of one of my scale bulblet baggies from spring purchases:
Lovely pics, pardalinum....it will be really exciting a few years out when your crosses come to bloom!
Pard, they all look great. You've been a good mommy to them & they are good babies ;0) You do such great work. Soon you'll be sought after by the pros, if you haven't already.
Impressive pods Pard!
Your scale bulblets are looking great, did you start them in warmth and then in the fridge to produce the top growth?
Yes, I started them in a unheated room, probably 50-60F, then refrigerated. Refrigerating seems to assist root growth. Then I bring them out and the leaves sprout. I always seem to have a few that never do anything, though, even with repeat treatment. But most will make at least one bulblet.
Thanks. Is that the same with seeds, the warm, cold, warm treatment? The first is to develop the bulb, then roots, then the leaves.
Would you say late summer to autumn is better than spring starting, with natural temperature fluctuations?
See wallaby-- you have to know the conditions for each type of seed. Generally: asiatics and trumpets, and some species you start in the spring (or a headstart inside under lights). They start right up just like marigolds. I think the sequence is cotyledon, bulblet, then true leaf. The oriental group is delayed and needs (in addition to patience) warm/cold/warm. The sequence is bulblet first, then roots, then a true leaf. So autumn is a good time to start these, as well as Western American species. Orienpets can go either way. If they don't come up in a few weeks I stick them in the fridge for another few weeks.
HI Connie. Your pods look so healthy. Are these recent pics? My pods are all dried up now. You've been busy crossing your lilys. Good luck, also I liked seeing the seedlings in the bags. Thanks for sharing the pics.
Maureen
Nice,
I am trying my hand at seeds, and bulbils this year. The crosses I am eager to see is Lollypop http://davesgarden.com/pf/go/48959/index.html and my unknowns yellow, orange, or maroon (pic below). Maroon did quite well but the other two didn't provide very many seeds. Not sure if they are not compatible or if it was my technique. I had a pod that I picked that wasn't open and the seeds started to germinate right in the pod becuase of the moisture.
Two questions,
1. How important is coating the seeds with fungicide such as Captan?
2. When pollinating does the stigma need to mature before pollination works? Are they open and ready for pollen right after flower opens?
Good day
Anybody know where I can get information on Embryo Rescue techniques?
Thank you
I use a rose fungicide on the pods, I think it is 0.4% sulfur, but captan should be ok. I don't put it right on the seeds. I am not sure but I think the stigma is most receptive when it is sticky but I do pollinations at any time when it is convenient for me. You can probably do a google search on "embryo rescue techniques". Other than that, I have seen quite a bit of info on the yahoo group. It's not something I do or plan to do anytime soon.
There has been a lot of discussion re ER on the yahoo lily group...over the last 6 months or so....
I just entered "embryo rescue" in the search function of yahoo group and a number of relevant threads came up.
Ok I just joined today. Yahoo is kind of stingy with the rules of photo posts. Apparently Yahoo removes photos from posts? Strange... Whats the point of a garden forum if you can't view images on archived messages?
Anyway, I like to experiment :*) I have my first seedlings basking in the light down stairs.
Congratulations on your first seedlings. In order to see photos you have to sign up to receive posts via email.
Red Alert! Since I am new at this seed thing I didn't bake my soil. Now I have mold growing on the surface! Would a fungicide kill mold ? Is there anything I can do to safe my stock? Aghhh...
Good day,
intercessor
This may be my answer :*)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mold
So can I spray the soil with Captan or another (fungus) mold killer?
Thank you,
intercessor
Par, what time frames do you use when leaving scales in the warm-frig-warm?
Thank you
Personally I think it is better to just buy a bag of soilless seed starting mix instead of using garden soil for starting your seeds, you will have a lot less problems caused by mold. Go ahead and try a fungicide but lily seedlings are very fragile. If that doesn't help you may need to start over. Don't just use the same planting containers unless you disinfect them with bleach.
I take a few scales (2-3) from bulbs when I receive them. This happens in the fall or in the spring. I wash the scales well and soak them for about 15 minutes in a 10% bleach solution, then give them a quick rinse and air dry. I use the soilless seed starting mix for this also, with just a very light spritz of water mixed well. Put your scales in and tamp down well. A little weight on top will help the scales maintain contact. Then forget about them for about 2 months. If bulblets have formed at that time you can put them in for a cool cycle.
One more question :*) Can the bulbils be taken off of the stem and then planted to grow or do those need frig. time also?
Thank you again
You can probably just plant the bulbils. I have done that with tiger lily bulbils and they just grew after that. Typically, if I don't get a leaf up after a month or two, I put them in the fridge for a cooling.
Hi again,
I went through a pod last night I was shocked that I had big healthy seeds, more than the chaff!
After seeing these seeds I have my doubt about the other pods. I have a couple questions again :*)
1. The pod that was very healthy was also reverse pollinated without any good seed. So Maroon x Orange gave excellent seed but Orange x Maroon was a flop. Was this my technique or? Thoughts please.
2. I know what a really good seed looks like but at what point does good turn to not viable? Some of the seeds I collected have short embyos and thick endosperm while others have thin endo and longer embryo. Is there a definitive way to know what is viable?
intercessor
a quick answer for question #2....plant them and see what germinates!
intercessor, what is that striking blue flower you have there in the corner?
That is a Delphinium. It would be awesome if someone would come up with a blue lily :*)
http://www.delphinium.co.nz/gallery05.htm